The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Gauge cluster swap

Anybody know if there are any issues going from a digital odometer to an analog cluster? Obviously whatever drives the analog odo is missing so it wont work but besides that? I need a replacement cluster and the analog one im looking at has 3 out of the 4 plugs that my digital one has. Im fairly sure that the 4th plug is just for the odometer. its a 10 pin plug with only 6 wires going to it. I'm assuming 4 of them are power/ground and the other 2 maybe signal for the odometer/trip odo button. Just wondering if theres a chance it will work before I drop hundreds on a new cluster
 
Anybody know if there are any issues going from a digital odometer to an analog cluster? Obviously whatever drives the analog odo is missing so it wont work but besides that? I need a replacement cluster and the analog one im looking at has 3 out of the 4 plugs that my digital one has. Im fairly sure that the 4th plug is just for the odometer. its a 10 pin plug with only 6 wires going to it. I'm assuming 4 of them are power/ground and the other 2 maybe signal for the odometer/trip odo button. Just wondering if theres a chance it will work before I drop hundreds on a new cluster
The "analog" clusters are still driven digitally - there is no cable speedo, for example.

I bet the speedo/odo and tach will work just fine if you get the connections right. The fuel sender is different between the "digital" clusters and the "analog" clusters. Engine temp likely works too. The 'digital' cluster controls some other things, like auto-off lights, etc.

Why do you want to change? It doesn't seem like there is anything to gain.

-Charlie
 
Hi all, I'm wondering how well the all weather floor mats from the 5th gen 4Runners fit our 3rd gens? I can't find much info on it but seems like a good affordable floor mat option if they do. Thanks!
 
I've barely done any research as this is new to me knowledge as of this morning, but evidently my 01 needs new rear axle seals. briefly read a writeup BFAD wrote about 15 years ago but just perused over it. to anyone who has done theirs recently, is it worth doing the job yourself or would I be better off having Toyota/independent shop do the work? my truck failed its state inspection this morning, thats how I found out.
 
I've barely done any research as this is new to me knowledge as of this morning, but evidently my 01 needs new rear axle seals. briefly read a writeup BFAD wrote about 15 years ago but just perused over it. to anyone who has done theirs recently, is it worth doing the job yourself or would I be better off having Toyota/independent shop do the work? my truck failed its state inspection this morning, thats how I found out.


watch timmys video on it...but yes you will need some special tools and a press., or take axles out yourself and take to a shop
but in my area, I would not trust any of the shops....well maybe one...then again I have all the tools
 
Questions about front end alignment

Hi, I have a 2001 SR5 and I’ve got some front end alignment issues I’m trying to fix. My caster bolts are rusted in so I have to cut those out. My caster not being able to be adjusted means that my left front tire rubs on my frame. I bought the car with what I believe is a 2inch lift but stock upper control arms so when loaded and turned my tires rub on the UCA’s.

I am looking to cut out my caster bolts and replace my UCA’s and while I’m doing that put on new brakes and rotors. If I cut the caster bolts out do I have to replace my LCA’s then as well? I believe I do but just checking.

Also, what are peoples cheaper recommendations on UCA’s. Specifically should I get ones that have high caster adjustment. What are recommendations on upgrading brakes and rotors for not to expensive and LCA’s if I have to.

I am trying to do most of this for cheaper, but am also okay saving up a little if something is significantly better, thanks.

-Gannon
 
watch timmys video on it...but yes you will need some special tools and a press., or take axles out yourself and take to a shop
but in my area, I would not trust any of the shops....well maybe one...then again I have all the tools

I've since watched it and I'm definitely dreading this... next week I will take it over to a buddy's house and crawl up underneath it and poke around. If I can stretch this out until next January at least I'd be able to get it registered as an antique. Regardless, the work needs to get done. I'm fortunate enough that I have another reliable means of transportation thankfully. Weighing my options at the moment though.
 
What touchscreen stereos would u recommend?

I very new to this and not at all experienced. But I do know to stay away from BOSS. I’ve found two stereos so far I’m not sure if they will fit. Crutchfield says they will, but i just want to double check.

Sony XAV-AX3200:
Just a moment...

Pioneer DMH-1800NEX:
Just a moment...
 
I've since watched it and I'm definitely dreading this... next week I will take it over to a buddy's house and crawl up underneath it and poke around. If I can stretch this out until next January at least I'd be able to get it registered as an antique. Regardless, the work needs to get done. I'm fortunate enough that I have another reliable means of transportation thankfully. Weighing my options at the moment though.

If my 19 yo daughter can do it, so can YOU! The axle "tube" seal lives in the axle housing. When you remove your axle with the hub + brake + etc as one unit, the seal will become visible. Take a look at the pic and you'll see what I mean. This to me is an easy job because you're not taking apart the bearing. Am I missing something here?
 

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Hi, I have a 2001 SR5 and I’ve got some front end alignment issues I’m trying to fix. My caster bolts are rusted in so I have to cut those out. My caster not being able to be adjusted means that my left front tire rubs on my frame. I bought the car with what I believe is a 2inch lift but stock upper control arms so when loaded and turned my tires rub on the UCA’s.

I am looking to cut out my caster bolts and replace my UCA’s and while I’m doing that put on new brakes and rotors. If I cut the caster bolts out do I have to replace my LCA’s then as well? I believe I do but just checking.

Also, what are peoples cheaper recommendations on UCA’s. Specifically should I get ones that have high caster adjustment. What are recommendations on upgrading brakes and rotors for not to expensive and LCA’s if I have to.

I am trying to do most of this for cheaper, but am also okay saving up a little if something is significantly better, thanks.

-Gannon

I'm sorry that you have to deal with freaking rust, that's the worst. When you cut off the caster adjustment bolts, that doesn't mean they'll come out. Let's hope they do but see what happens before you worry about the next step.

My daughter has 5th gen springs on stock UCA & LCA w/o any alignment issues. But, she does have a bumper + winch so it might be 1.5" of lift. In any case, use a angle die grinder with a cut off wheel to buzz off the heads of the bolts then see if you can tap the bolts out. If you can't, then bolts are stuck to the metal sleeves inside the bushings. So, now you''ll have to cut off the other end of the bolts too and then remove the LCAs. Honestly at this point I'd just buy a set of loaded aftermarket LCAs with bushings. Most folks don't have the ability to press out bushings out of control arms and I don't think OEM bushings are sold anymore but I could be wrong.

That's where I'd invest the money, not on the UCAs for now. Install new LCAs then get it aligned and see how everything is before deciding on UCAs. My daughter and I installed Tundra front brake rotors + calipers that we pulled from U Pull N pay and it was pretty cheap and a worthwhile upgrade.
 
I'm sorry that you have to deal with freaking rust, that's the worst. When you cut off the caster adjustment bolts, that doesn't mean they'll come out. Let's hope they do but see what happens before you worry about the next step.

My daughter has 5th gen springs on stock UCA & LCA w/o any alignment issues. But, she does have a bumper + winch so it might be 1.5" of lift. In any case, use a angle die grinder with a cut off wheel to buzz off the heads of the bolts then see if you can tap the bolts out. If you can't, then bolts are stuck to the metal sleeves inside the bushings. So, now you''ll have to cut off the other end of the bolts too and then remove the LCAs. Honestly at this point I'd just buy a set of loaded aftermarket LCAs with bushings. Most folks don't have the ability to press out bushings out of control arms and I don't think OEM bushings are sold anymore but I could be wrong.

That's where I'd invest the money, not on the UCAs for now. Install new LCAs then get it aligned and see how everything is before deciding on UCAs. My daughter and I installed Tundra front brake rotors + calipers that we pulled from U Pull N pay and it was pretty cheap and a worthwhile upgrade.

Thank you, I’m thinking of paying a buddy’s mechanic to chop out the bolts since I just don’t have the time or the tools really.

Did it take long to find tundra brakes at a yard? I would love to do that upgrade but buying the parts online is getting a little spendy so I’m not quite sure.
 
Thank you, I’m thinking of paying a buddy’s mechanic to chop out the bolts since I just don’t have the time or the tools really.

Did it take long to find tundra brakes at a yard? I would love to do that upgrade but buying the parts online is getting a little spendy so I’m not quite sure.

There are two diff types of calipers with two letter designations, so it's easy to look for them at a U pull n pay type of place. Once you find the calipers on a Tundra, just grab everything, including the pads. I think my daughter will be on those same pads for a long time!
 
Do I need any parts to install a stereo?

I’ve settled on the Pioneer DMH-1600NEX 6.8" Double-Din Digital Multimedia Receiver - Built in Bluetooth, Wired Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, Touchscreen, Rear Camera Input Amazon.com because I heard over on Reddit that Pioneer is good, next to Sony, Alpine, and Kenwood. But I am taking this to a shop to have it installed. I was looking at Best Buy’s Installation program last night after adding a radio to my cart that was “free installation.” I had to add as one of my options whether my 4Runner has an amplifier or not. I put it without cause, my 4Runner is a stock 2001 SR5 minus the tires and rims. So it automatically added a harness and a bunch of other things, too. I’m not sure if I need it cause the stereos are both different
 
Lifted 4Runner Uneven tire wear

I’ve just recently lifted my 2000 limited 4runner with a 2.5in bilstein 5100 lift and I stacked a 1.5 level which I know isn’t ideal but i wanted to clear 35s and I’ve seen plenty of people pull it off with no issues, I have the 2-4in lifted upper control arms a 1in diff drop, and new cv axles and inner and outer tie rods, I’ve gotten it aligned and it drives straight but my tires still sit positively cambered and I was wondering if anyone new a way i could fix this while keeping the 4in of lift. Would 2-4in lifted lower control arms solve this?
 
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Surface Rust

Hi, I have some really minor surface rust on my frame. Nothing bad at all but I was doing some research and there were just so many products and videos but nothing is super clear.

As a mostly preventative measure I am wanting to scrub my frame and coat it. Does anyone have any videos that are clear on this and what products to people reccomend?

-Gannon
 
I’ve just recently lifted my 2000 limited 4runner with a 2.5in bilstein 5100 lift and I stacked a 1.5 level which I know isn’t ideal but i wanted to clear 35s and I’ve seen plenty of people pull it off with no issues, I have the 2-4in lifted upper control arms a 1in diff drop, and new cv axles and inner and outer tie rods, I’ve gotten it aligned and it drives straight but my tires still sit positively cambered and I was wondering if anyone new a way i could fix this while keeping the 4in of lift. Would 2-4in lifted lower control arms solve this?
That's not really how any of this works. A 4" lift with factory suspension geometry (not long travel or bracket lift) leaves basically zero down travel. It will ride like crap and won't align, as you already found out.

Get rid of that spacer lift and do a body lift if you want the high look. It is ONLY for looks though - best actual performance is down in the 2-3" lift range (really 1.5"-2", but that's another story).

35's will need body mods, basically no matter what you do.

-Charlie
 
Climate Control lights on 2000 Sr5

I recently picked up a 2000 sr5 and noticed that there were no lights behind the climate controls. Are there supposed to be?
 
hi all - pretty sure i’ve got a leak in the high pressure power steering line. got a new rack recently and there’s a leak from “above” it (slow drip for an hour or two, only after turning lock to lock)

anyone done the replacement on the high pressure line before? trying to find a part number as well. thanks!
 
I recently picked up a 2000 sr5 and noticed that there were no lights behind the climate controls. Are there supposed to be?
Yes. There are a few threads on here for LED conversions for dash lights that will have reference numbers for the stock bulbs (use those) with quantities and locations.

-Charlie
 
hi all - pretty sure i’ve got a leak in the high pressure power steering line. got a new rack recently and there’s a leak from “above” it (slow drip for an hour or two, only after turning lock to lock)

anyone done the replacement on the high pressure line before? trying to find a part number as well. thanks!

You can't buy only the high pressure line from Toyota. You have to buy both lines. This is the part# 44410-35570. It's not cheap. You can get them for a lot cheaper on Rock Auto but quality probably isn't as good but it's about $300 cheaper than OEM so might be worth it.
 
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