The Ever Popular P1300 CEL

[bentos1]

It looks like you tested spark correctly. Was the intake too dirty to ground the plug? I have only tried this once myself but it turned out my timing chain was broken. Spark definitely wouldn't work.
Are you getting power to the coil packs directly?
Maybe someone else can add to this who has more experience.

Check your fuses. You can test them in the truck with you DMM. The tops have little square test points you can use to check continuity. Maybe the EFI fuse is blown or something else. Ive read that wiring can be a big issue, I think I read that you had some bad wires already. The crank position sensor is a possibility. The crankshaft being loose.

Honestly, I know I am just throwing around ideas from what Ive read elsewhere. These have been related to other peoples no spark issues.

Does the new trace in the ECU have continuity? Did you ever clean up those silver trace lines you drew on the board?

 

[ZionXIX]

It looks like you tested spark correctly. Was the intake too dirty to ground the plug?

Im surprised how clean the intake is. Still has that nice aluminum luster to it.

I have only tried this once myself but it turned out my timing chain was broken. Spark definitely wouldn't work.

Timing was changed 2 years ago, so Im not too worried about it. Although it only take a couple of minutes to check it.

Check your fuses. You can test them in the truck with you DMM. The tops have little square test points you can use to check continuity. Maybe the EFI fuse is blown or something else.

Checked fuses, all are good. I have not check the EFI relay yet.

Did you ever clean up those silver trace lines you drew on the board?

I cleaned all the silver off the board but there was only a little that needed attention. I used scotch as an insulator over the board surface and drew the lines on top of that tape so the majority of silver never made contact with the board.

Does the new trace in the ECU have continuity?

I find it rather difficult to test the repaired traces. I have good continuity from the wires, why wouldnt I right? I completely bypassed each of the traces by solder from the trace beginning to the termination point. 2 of them literally went from a "point" to another "point". The last one went from a "point" to one side of a resister.


I think I am hearing is a Relay click ON and then OFF immediately. What ever checks and balances the circuit board uses to keep the relay closed is clearly not working or the board recognizes there is a problem and is preventing the relay from closing for safety purposes. Im going with the former.

If I ever meet the guy who sold me the ECU that I am waiting for, I might just punch him :boxing:.

Now its just a waiting game.

 

[bentos1]

Thanks for clarifying.

Is the EFI relay the same size as another? You might be able to switch them around.

Are you able to use the DMM to back probe the ECU when cranking. It might tell you if the ECU is sending the signal to the coil packs or not. You may also be able to test the pins on the ECU to see if they are "live" so to speak for the coil packs.

If your traces are repaired and the capacitors replaced, the ECU *should be ok.
Check the FSM wiring pinout of the ECU and see what you can probe on the ECU itself and if you can back probe when cranking.

Hopefully someone with more electrical knowledge could chime in here to help.
Maybe I am completely wrong as well...

 

[ZionXIX]

Thanks for clarifying.

Is the EFI relay the same size as another? You might be able to switch them around.

Are you able to use the DMM to back probe the ECU when cranking. It might tell you if the ECU is sending the signal to the coil packs or not. You may also be able to test the pins on the ECU to see if they are "live" so to speak for the coil packs.

If your traces are repaired and the capacitors replaced, the ECU *should be ok.
Check the FSM wiring pinout of the ECU and see what you can probe on the ECU itself and if you can back probe when cranking.

Hopefully someone with more electrical knowledge could chime in here to help.
Maybe I am completely wrong as well...

Tested the EFI, its working fine. The Circuit forum guys suggested I do a couple things to the board.
I did that and still no dice. Im thinking of pulling relays one at a time just for fun to see which one is turning "ON" and "OFF".
I didnt think of back probing the ECU while cranking.
I think I will wait on the new part cuz my battery is finally starting to get tired
and I would like there to be some some charge left when I get the replacement ECU.

 

[ZionXIX]

[MENTION=145463]bentos1[/MENTION]

So the ECU was mailed from California. I thought it was coming from Delaware:ybrick:.
It was delivered to my friends house in New Jersey yesterday according to the tracking number.
I emailed my friends spouse a pre paid shipping label for the ECU.
I have heard nothing about whether they have received it, mailed it, or anything.
I dont want to be a pest asking about it since they are already doing me a huge favor by not making me jump through "return to sender" hoops.
Maybe I will ask about it tomorrow. So now I just keep the Fedex page open hitting refresh while I study :ranger:

 

[bentos1]

[MENTION=145463]bentos1[/MENTION]

So the ECU was mailed from California. I thought it was coming from Delaware:ybrick:.
It was delivered to my friends house in New Jersey yesterday according to the tracking number.
I emailed my friends spouse a pre paid shipping label for the ECU.
I have heard nothing about whether they have received it, mailed it, or anything.
I dont want to be a pest asking about it since they are already doing me a huge favor by not making me jump through "return to sender" hoops.
Maybe I will ask about it tomorrow. So now I just keep the Fedex page open hitting refresh while I study :ranger:

Ugh, that sucks man. Sorry to hear it.
I am sure we have all been in some situation where we need something and its the only thing on our mind and everything seems to go wrong. The issue is exasperated because you cant get your head off the topic.
Hopefully the friends pull through and get it on to you soon, fingers crossed right.

Hang in there and stay positive

 

[ZionXIX]

Update:

Today is a most glorious day my friends. The ECU I have been waiting for finally came in. I promptly donated an arm and 2 legs to customs :hail: and wasted no time plugging the ECU in. I didn't even bother putting in the slot. I left it hanging attached to the wire harness. She started up like no time had passed. :banana: She sounds awesome with the new clutch, plugs, wires and the new LBJs aren't too bad either. I wish I had just ordered the ECU in the beginning. Stubborn me refused to back down from a challenge and tried to fix it myself. I now have reason to believe the ECU has been slowly declining much earlier than I thought. With the new ECU I have noticed the weird shifting problems I had before have vanished. :biggrin1:

So as I suspected, the ECU was the problem all along.

Thank you for all the support guys. I will post a summary in the 1st page for anyone with this issue that happens to run across my thread.

 

[bentos1]

That is awesome! Really happy to hear that you have resolved your truck issues and are up and running again.

There was lots of troubleshooting and you had asked all over the internet for assistance on this problem. Lots of effort was put in to this which makes it so much more rewarding that the everything is working now.
Congratualtions ZionXIX, give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. Your persistance is an inspiration to anyone else with ongoing issues that are difficult to troubleshoot.

I still say to keep your old ECU and see if it could be fixed. It would be would be great to have a backup and better to know you fixed that gremlin that was causing your issues.

But for now, take some down time and enjoy the ride

 

[GangsterOfLove]

Great news! :banana:

 

[ZionXIX]

Added summary to the first page and changed the title to "Solved". I might add some more detail to the summary later. For now its back to studying.

 

[RocksRunner]

I just had my first experience with this code today. Died and poor idle upon restart, opened the hood and checked everything that I unplugged last week when I did the spark plug change. After i unplugged and reseated all the plugs I was able to start her with no issues. I drove her all day and the CEL went away, hopefully it was something as simple as a loose wire and I will not have to spend my Christmas troubleshooting this issue or replacing a bad ECU.

 

[RocksRunner]

Well, spent my morning waiting for a tow truck. Looks like all that praying didn't pay off last night. I do remember someone talking about replacing their cam positioning sensor, can someone point me in the right direction to test it and its exact location? Also i did search on eBay and it appears there is a company that repairs broken ECU for under $200. Has any used a company that rebuilds your ECU, this company offers lifetime warrant.

 

[RocksRunner]

So I pulled the coils this afternoon all three were out of tolerance additionally the 2nd coil pack had corrosion on the terminal leading to the other spark plug. Just order the coils and wires, hope this is it and nothing else!

 

[RocksRunner]

Thank you ZionXIX,

Like you I went down the troubleshooting list according to the FSM. I found a faulty ignition coil and corroded spark plug wires, leading me to believe that was the primary issue. While I waited for both those items to come in, i decided to clean out all connections electrical plugs. Like you, I found the red wire coming ever so slightly out of the plug that goes into the ignitor. I was able to re secure the wire back into the plug and zipped tied the wire-loom that leads to it to the bracket next to it. I suspect that the constant moving of the wire caused it to pull out of the plug. After fixing that wire and installing news coils and wires and clearing my codes, I'm happy to report no more P1300 CEL codes.

 

[ZionXIX]

Thank you ZionXIX,

Hey I'm glad you got it figured out. I would have offered more assistance but I wasn't notified of a comment despite having this thread subscribed. Enjoy the new coils [emoji41]

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[gvxmech]

po300, 301, p1300 codes

My son, with a 01 4runner had the above codes.

It wasn't the ignitor, spark plug, computer or any of that. It was a bad negative terminal on the battery. Poor ground. Ours was really bad. The wire was corroded with battery acid for more than 8" away from the battery.

Cut the bad wire off,
Cleaned wire with baking soda solution and compressed air
Put new terminal on the battery and cable

Started engine- The miss was gone and the light was off. Problem solved. 6 bucks!

Check for simple things before buying components.

 

[Anthonny]

Leí todo el hilo gracias al traductor de Google y se la felicidad que genera haber reparado uno algo que dio dolores de cabeza.
Tengo una Tacoma Prerruner 2001 con motor 5vz y el día de hoy se encendió el check motor y el scaner obd2 me da el código p1300. Pero el problema es que el motor está muy bien, el motor funciona normal, por lo que no se que diablos será y por más que borro el código, a los 30 segundos de encendido el motor me lo vuelve a dar, pero el motor funciona normal.
Mañana tendré que revisar todo y este hilo a ayudado mucho, sobre todo con los diagramas, fotografías y valores a revisar con mi voltímetro.