The Ever Popular P1300 CEL

[BoomSticks]

Hemostats to the rescue!

I have a drawer full of them in all sizes. Great for fishing.

You're going to have to solder that wire.

Worst case, you pull it all the way through the connector and solder the wire directly to the blade of the other half of the connector.

Solder an extension wire to the blade of the good connector.

Feed the extension through the broken connector.

Solder extension to the broken/out of place wire.

Of course the ideal fix is to solder on a whole a new connector after cutting off the broken one.

 

[ZionXIX]

Hemostats to the rescue!

I have a drawer full of them in all sizes. Great for fishing.

You're going to have to solder that wire.

Worst case, you pull it all the way through the connector and solder the wire directly to the blade of the other half of the connector.

Solder an extension wire to the blade of the good connector.

Feed the extension through the broken connector.

Solder extension to the broken/out of place wire.

Of course the ideal fix is to solder on a whole a new connector after cutting off the broken one.

Are you saying solder to the front of the connector that would make contact with the igniter and then solder the broken wire to the extension wire? Also can I use regular silver Lead free solder for small circuits?

 

[ZionXIX]

UPDATE:

Tried some soldering on the 4runner today. My soldering skills leave much to be desired. I stripped some insulation and cut the old portion of wire out. I pre "Tinned" the end of the wire. I was able to un crimp the remaining portion of the metal terminal inside the housing and used that to crimp the new portion of wire in just to hold it in place while I finished soldering. I first tried placing the soldering iron at the front of the terminal and let the heat travel to the back where the new wire was crimp in an attempt to melt the pre applied solder and add new solder. This did not work very well. I ended up melting the plastic and pushing the terminal further into the plastic housing. With the terminal pushed further back I was able to reach the crimped portion better and decided to solder there and push the terminal back into position.

I plugged it in and fired her up again. She sat for about 2 minutes and ran fine. I turned on the A/C and basked in my own glorious repair. Then the engine cut again....SOB....P1300

I was so mad I decided to open up the wire loom and inspect as far back as possible. I found this little gem, otherwise all the wiring looks intact. I have not messed with the harness next to the injectors

Re-spliced, soldered and heat shrink tubed

Plugged in, started, waited for a good 3 minutes (the longest time yet) and then proceeded to slap me in the face with that damn code again. Im just about out of ideas at this point.:redbrick:

I went looking at the FSM again. The #10 wire that I have been working on goes to Ignition coil 1. I can see the same color wires on coil 1 and igniter #9 and #10. Every test run sounds great. No misfires, no weird noises. I know power is getting to coils cuz theyre running great. Am I missing something here> Should I take another look at the ECU?

 

[BoomSticks]

Sorry man, I'm not sure where to guide you from there. Certainly seems like you're on the right path. Keep tracing that wire and making sure it has good connections all the way from the coil to the ignitor connector.

My next move would be to get a new connector, cut off the old one, and solder in the new one.

Toyota 4Runner Tacama T100 3 4L V6 DS61 DS62 Igniter Connector | eBay

 

[ZionXIX]

Sorry man, I'm not sure where to guide you from there. Certainly seems like you're on the right path. Keep tracing that wire and making sure it has good connections all the way from the coil to the ignitor connector.

My next move would be to get a new connector, cut off the old one, and solder in the new one.

Toyota 4Runner Tacama T100 3 4L V6 DS61 DS62 Igniter Connector | eBay

Well for now I have ordered a multimeter so I dont have borrow one. When it gets here I would like to check the resistance and continuity of all the wires coming out of the igniter. It seems that #10 supplies power to to coil 1 based on my highly scientific testing method of pulling the wire out while the engine was running. Perhaps #9 is the return wire used for the "confirmation signal". The engine runs great so I know that #10 must be intact and operational. I may take a closer look at #9 and the wires between the igniter and ECM. The FSM I have is for all years of 3rd gen and the pictures of the ECM dont match mine. Where could I find an ECM guide for the 1996? Since I was following the 2002 guide, I may have tested the wrong wires on the ECM side of things. Im just trying to find out which wires run between the igniter and the ECM for a continuity check. So I guess I get to play with wires for a couple of weeks....yay. This island is filled with toyota tacoma and hilux trucks. surely I can find a harness locally. Would you solder them and shrink tube the wire or use butt connectors?

Thanks

 

[BoomSticks]

Cut off old connector, solder on new connector, triple checking you're soldering the correct connector wire to the correct harness wire. Probably a good idea to cut and solder each one at a time.

You're looking for 95.5-2004 Tacos, which correspond to 96-2002 4r's.

 

[ZionXIX]

Thank for your assistance Boomsticks, i would not have made this far otherwise.

While I wait for my multimeter in the mail, I have been digging through the FSM a bit more. I found a wiring diagram for the 1996 model. Up to this point I have been using the 2002 version. They are quite different now that I have had a chance to compare the two.

1. Originally the FSM instructed me to check the voltage on Igniter #9. It was within spec. According to the diagram, #9 travels to each coil pack and every injetor and then the ignition ending at the battery (+). I now believe this wire supplies power to all of those components. Since it was within spec and there are no misfires I will stop looking at this wire.

2. The 2002 FSM also wanted me to check a specific pin on the ECM for the IGF signal, which was within spec, however the 1996 FSM lists a different pin for the IGF. I now feel it is possible that this pin could be out spec. If so, then I would need a new ECM according to the FSM.

3. I will also check the continuity between the igniter connecter and ECM which is igniter #4 to E9-12 on the ECM.

Will update when the tools get in.

 

[ZionXIX]

UPDATE:

I finally got my multimeter in after 2 weeks of waiting. :biggrin2:
I wasted no time trying to further troubleshoot the P1300 problem. I was able to find some pages out of the 1996 FSM sine my 2002 has some diferences mainly when talking about the ECM layout. I was able to check all the test steps required by the FSM except the ones in regards to testing voltage while cranking.

In step 3 it instructs to disconnect the igniter, turn ignition on, check voltage between IGF terminal of the ECM connector and body ground. If this value is between 4.5-5.5 volts then replace the igniter. I have already replaced the igniter with no change. Is this a typo? Why would such a specific voltage range = replace the igniter? I tested this by touching the corresponding pin on the ECM and the body ground with the ignition on. I do get a but confused if the FSM is asking to test the wiring harnes or the pins on the ECM itself. If anyone could clarify this for me, I would be grateful.

I checked the continuity of all wires coming off the igniter. They all range from 0.3 ohms up to my crappy soldered wire at 1.4 ohms. So as far as I can tell there are no breaks in the wires.

Some instructions that confuse me are the cranking voltage steps. Its says Disconnect igniter, check voltage of IGT 1, 2, and 3 of the ECM connecter while engine is being cranked. The picture provided shows the wire connectors plugged into the ECM, or at least an outline of them. Do I need to check these while the ECM is plugged in? Im not sure my multimeter leads will fit between the wires and the plastic connector.

Lastly I found a wired part I have no idea what it is for. I found it taped to the MAF wire loom with 2 wires and a connector attached. 1 wire is the common power for all the ignition coils and the injectors. The other wire I have no idea where it goes. It has part number 90980-04083. When I google that number is says "Toyota Condensor" I dont know what that means but the other number on the part read as a capacitor. I check the resistence and it has infinite resistance. Im fairly sure its dead. I read on another forum that this is some sort of noise filter. Anyone have any insight on this?

Thanks

 

[ZionXIX]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] LOL, I have not tried hitting the igniter on the floor yet. I'm almost to that point. Every test I run comes back within normal range. I did find the "condensor" capacitor noise filter thing and got infinite resistance when I put my multi meter on it. Do you think such an insignificant part could be the culprit? I'm still unsure what it does for the ignition system.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[GangsterOfLove]

I have no advice for you other than to say I sign on every day hoping that you have found a solution to your problem.

I admire your perseverance :thumb:.

 

[ZionXIX]

Decided to play with the multi meter this morning on a whim and check for shorts in the igniter harness. I disconnected the ECU harness and the igniter harness. I left the coil packs connected but I may do this again with them disconnected. Im not sure if its normal but I did get some readings between various combination of wires at the igniter harness. This is my first time dealing with any electrical problems. Here is a picture of my results:

 

[ZionXIX]

Update:

So I decided to do a little forum jumping to get some more opinions on this P1300 nightmare. So far they think my fugly soldering job messed up the connector possibly causing some sort of short where the connecter meets the igniter or perhaps extra resistance weakening the overall IGF signal to the ECM. I finally got my replacement connector in today after like 3weeks of waiting. I installed this morning in a quick and dirty twist tape method as I did not have time to break out the soldering iron. Needless to say it did not fix my problem. The new connector and wires are all reading 0.4 to 0.5 ohms between the igniter and ignition coils so I dont think there is a problem there.

This connector is so much nicer than mine. I think it came from a tacoma cuz the #10 wire is a different color.

I really wish I could find someone on this island with the same computer to swap out for testing. :crybaby:

 

[bentos1]

Ive read through your post and clearly this has been very frustrating issue for you. It would be for any of us.
You have been throwing parts at the problem hoping for a solution but you haven’t troubleshot the issue properly. Ideally, you want to verify the issue 100% before buying parts. That being said, I have been in your shoes. I was trying to find out why my 22re wouldn’t start and bought a new igniter for $200 to find out my timing chain had snapped. These things happen.

I did some Google searching and see that you have replied to other people’s posts on this issue without much success. I would be interested in tracing some of those wires more to see if there are other issues. Find the pin out on the ECU and test with a DMM to verify all is good. I know you have done tests but they have seemed to change from being in and out of spec. That frayed wire and repair didn’t look good.
You could always leave a note on 4Runner you see around town and offer $20 if they let you test their igniter for 5 min. This might work, you never know.

Are there any igniter tests to perform?

Some additional thoughts on troubleshooting:

What is the status of the battery, current charge, when running what does it read?

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Remote start? Any aftermarket lights or electricals?

It is possible a wire is heating up (high resistance), losing connectivity, or maybe shorting out

 

[ZionXIX]

Ive read through your post and clearly this has been very frustrating issue for you. It would be for any of us.
You have been throwing parts at the problem hoping for a solution but you haven’t troubleshot the issue properly. Ideally, you want to verify the issue 100% before buying parts. That being said, I have been in your shoes. I was trying to find out why my 22re wouldn’t start and bought a new igniter for $200 to find out my timing chain had snapped. These things happen.

I did some Google searching and see that you have replied to other people’s posts on this issue without much success. I would be interested in tracing some of those wires more to see if there are other issues. Find the pin out on the ECU and test with a DMM to verify all is good. I know you have done tests but they have seemed to change from being in and out of spec. That frayed wire and repair didn’t look good.
You could always leave a note on 4Runner you see around town and offer $20 if they let you test their igniter for 5 min. This might work, you never know.

Are there any igniter tests to perform?

Some additional thoughts on troubleshooting:

What is the status of the battery, current charge, when running what does it read?

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Remote start? Any aftermarket lights or electricals?

It is possible a wire is heating up (high resistance), losing connectivity, or maybe shorting out

Find the pin out on the ECU and test with a DMM to verify all is good.

The FSM instructed me to check the voltage for the IGF pin on the ECU with the igniter discconected and the ignition in the "ON" position. If the voltage is between 4.5v and 5.5v, then replace the igniter. I was reading something like 4.98 volts. I replaced the igniter and we are still here.

What is the status of the battery, current charge, when running what does it read?

The battery amazingly is still reading 12.51 volts when off. I have been disconnecting it when im not troubleshooting. I have probably started that engine 50 times since the beginning of this problem. Sometimes it runs for a few second or even a couple of minutes. I will definitely buy that brand of battery again. I have not checked the voltage when running.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Remote start? Any aftermarket lights or electricals?

The truck is completely stock. No alarms, no kill switches, even has the stock radio.

You could always leave a note on 4Runner you see around town and offer $20 if they let you test their igniter for 5 min. This might work, you never know.

Trust me, I will if I see it again. Ive only seen 2 so far.

Are there any igniter tests to perform?

There no direct tests to perform that I can find. Its been more like "if this random part is working than replace this other unrelated component". I have attached the P1300 diagnostic procedure from my copy of the 2002 FSM. The ECM pin number are wrong and I found the right ones from another source but the procedure are the same. The only steps I have not done are the ones involving testing the IGT signals while cranking or steps that require an oscilloscope. Both steps basically end with replacing the ECM.

 

[ZionXIX]

[MENTION=145463]bentos1[/MENTION]

Perhaps I should summarize what I have done up this point to consolidate some of the information.

In no particular order, I have done the following:

Parts replaced:
Igniter
Igniter connector
spark plugs
Plug wires
ignition coils

Tests performed:
Resistance check of the following:
Crankshaft position sensor --> Normal
Primary and secondary for the old coil packs --> Normal

Voltage check:
Igniter power supply wire --> within Normal range
IGF pin of the ECM --> Normal Range
Battery --> 12.51 volts as of yesterday

Continuity Check with the meter set to make noise:
3 wires from the igniter to the coil packs
3 wires for the IGT signal between igniter and ECM
1 wire for the IGF signal beween the igniter and ECM
1 ground wire --> good at the ground point and the battery
1 common power wire --> voltage check
1 wire for the Tacometer --> not tested

Wire short check at the igniter connector:
I checked all 10 wires against themselves to check for shorts but I think I did it wrong
since I left the coil connected. Looking at the wiring diagram there are couple of wires that
should be able to "talk" to each other such as through the ground or common power wire. I
might do it again later. Still new to using the meter, I might be using it incorrectly. I posted a
graphic showing my results but like I said, I thinks it was performed incorrectly.

Lastly I have located every ground possible and sanded the paint down to metal ensuring a
fantastic ground.

 

[bentos1]

Maybe fuel pressure could be the issue? Fuel pump wiring/ground? Saw that was an issue with another person.

You mentioned pulling on wires before and that lead you to the break in the wire. Maybe just start pulling at everything?

It might be worth pulling the ECU and checking the board and looking for bad traces, or blown parts. I have seen people post those things before.

Sorry man, I am just trying to think of idea's. I have never had this issue before and I know how frustrating tracking down a gremlin like this can be.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/ig5vzfe/ignsy/ovi.pdf

full manual: http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/contents.htm

 

[ZionXIX]

Maybe fuel pressure could be the issue?
I am leaning towards wiring of some sort. You mentioned pulling on wires before and that lead you to the break in the wire. Maybe just start pulling at everything?

It might be worth pulling the ECU and checking the board and looking for bad traces, or blown parts. I have seen people post those things before.

Sorry man, I am just trying to think of idea's. I have never had this issue before and I know how frustrating tracking down a gremlin like this can be.

Honestly at this point I think its the computer but they are so damn expensive that Im hesitating buying one. I also cant prove it without expensive tools. There seem to be a lot of ECMs available on the car-parts.com site. I have emailed several of them and none of them will reply to my messages. Make calls from here is expensive and a hassle with lots of static and frequent dropped calls.

 

[bentos1]

Honestly at this point I think its the computer but they are so damn expensive that Im hesitating buying one. I also cant prove it without expensive tools. There seem to be a lot of ECMs available on the car-parts.com site. I have emailed several of them and none of them will reply to my messages. Make calls from here is expensive and a hassle with lots of static and frequent dropped calls.

Turned out to be the MAF for this guy: 3.4 Sudden Quit - RockSolidToys Toyota Solid Axle Swap & 4X4 Forum Facebook
Test/Clean your MAF. Should not take long to do.

Other stated it was wiring @ the connector like you had before.

One guy had a bad fuel pump ground. Jump your fuel pump maybe?

Open up the ECU and send a large pic. Both sides. We can look @ the board for anything obvious.
ECU's do fail but not often. I would keep working with you have until you can verify the issue through more troubleshooting. The CEL code triggers p1300 but it doesn't mean that is what is causing the issue itself.

 

[ZionXIX]

Turned out to be the MAF for this guy: 3.4 Sudden Quit - RockSolidToys Toyota Solid Axle Swap & 4X4 Forum Facebook
Test/Clean your MAF. Should not take long to do.

Other stated it was wiring @ the connector like you had before.

One guy had a bad fuel pump ground. Jump your fuel pump maybe?

Open up the ECU and send a large pic. Both sides. We can look @ the board for anything obvious.
ECU's do fail but not often. I would keep working with you have until you can verify the issue through more troubleshooting. The CEL code triggers p1300 but it doesn't mean that is what is causing the issue itself.

Thank for the suggestion. I did read through that thread and I actually cleaned the MAF a few weeks before the P1300 due to a code for the MAF it was throwing. I dont remember the code though. I will try and remove the ECM later today or early tomorrow depending on how my schedule works out today.

 

[bentos1]

Thank for the suggestion. I did read through that thread and I actually cleaned the MAF a few weeks before the P1300 due to a code for the MAF it was throwing. I dont remember the code though. I will try and remove the ECM later today or early tomorrow depending on how my schedule works out today.

Remember what I said about the codes. Just because a code points to one part of the vehicle, that doesn't mean the problem lies there. The computer is throwing the problem it can see but it might lie elsewhere.

Keep us updated. You can get this fixed!!!