owyheerat
New member
Thanks rkntoy,
It is not leaking or making any funny noises. I appreciate the input. I was not looking forward to cracking it open.
Thanks
Durwin
The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread
- Thread starter Rockdawg84
- Start date
Thanks rkntoy,
It is not leaking or making any funny noises. I appreciate the input. I was not looking forward to cracking it open.
Thanks
Durwin
Doing an update about my popping out of gear issue with the TGcase, for anyone reading up on said. I posted that my issue was gone after having the gears modded but that was only a partial truth, on low to medium gears the issue was gone but on steep gears the TGcase continued to pop, i didn't want to update until the issue was completely fixed. Before I got that issue I started braking elocker diffs so my focus switch to overcoming said. During my axle assembly upgrade I pulled the TGcase and found that I had chipping on the 1:1 gear and also noticed that in the 1:4.7 gear position the the shift gear and collar where not fully engaged (there was a 1/16" space between the gear and collar.
After talk with TG they paid to ship the unit back. I was told they replaced everything internally but it was clear the original gearing were all there (not that I feel they needed to replace everything, just fix the issue, just dont say u did something u didnt). The paper work lists replacement/shim of the synchro gear. The first thing i noticed, with the case out, was when i put the unit in gear and turned the input shaft was resistance that was not there previously (to say u could feel the gears turn against each other, as before in gear the shaft turned as easily as when in neutral). The popping is completely gone, but i havn't put a ton of miles on said yet, and the unit is operating as it should have from the start. I would like to note that when i talk with TG told them i though my unit was out of warranty (it was not) and they didn't care and where still going to pay for shipping and fix the issue, from talking with them it sounded like the had a batch of units that had some type of internal tolerance issues. It sucked going through the repeated R&R of the unit to figure it out but when moding i feel "issues" r part of the game, TG standing by their product and not giving me the run around is all that madders in the end
On a diff note the first weak put going dual cases was my rear diff not the CV's (which im guessing will be my next failure)
After reading put on some others and a buddy that had the same failures with the stock rear diff and my own 3 failures I ended up putting a tundra 10.5" axle assembly with and ARB under my 4runner, after heavily modding said. I am running one of the heavier 3rd gen I believe and dont fault the oem diff I was just asking to much of said.
After talk with TG they paid to ship the unit back. I was told they replaced everything internally but it was clear the original gearing were all there (not that I feel they needed to replace everything, just fix the issue, just dont say u did something u didnt). The paper work lists replacement/shim of the synchro gear. The first thing i noticed, with the case out, was when i put the unit in gear and turned the input shaft was resistance that was not there previously (to say u could feel the gears turn against each other, as before in gear the shaft turned as easily as when in neutral). The popping is completely gone, but i havn't put a ton of miles on said yet, and the unit is operating as it should have from the start. I would like to note that when i talk with TG told them i though my unit was out of warranty (it was not) and they didn't care and where still going to pay for shipping and fix the issue, from talking with them it sounded like the had a batch of units that had some type of internal tolerance issues. It sucked going through the repeated R&R of the unit to figure it out but when moding i feel "issues" r part of the game, TG standing by their product and not giving me the run around is all that madders in the end
On a diff note the first weak put going dual cases was my rear diff not the CV's (which im guessing will be my next failure)
After reading put on some others and a buddy that had the same failures with the stock rear diff and my own 3 failures I ended up putting a tundra 10.5" axle assembly with and ARB under my 4runner, after heavily modding said. I am running one of the heavier 3rd gen I believe and dont fault the oem diff I was just asking to much of said.
Attachments
Doc2012
Senior Member
So, picked this gem up for a steal. 4.7:1 low range, Inchworm Lefty; 945 shipped to my door.
I plan on running dual cases; however, I’ll be sticking to the stock 2.28:1 low gear in the front box.
I need to convert the lefty to a Top Shift, then down the road will be getting, more than likely, a TG crawl box and adapter set.
I might just thrown this Lefty in for shits and giggles until I’m ready to do Duals.
I plan on running dual cases; however, I’ll be sticking to the stock 2.28:1 low gear in the front box.
I need to convert the lefty to a Top Shift, then down the road will be getting, more than likely, a TG crawl box and adapter set.
I might just thrown this Lefty in for shits and giggles until I’m ready to do Duals.
MarkamisPrime
New member
So, picked this gem up for a steal. 4.7:1 low range, Inchworm Lefty; 945 shipped to my door.
I plan on running dual cases; however, I’ll be sticking to the stock 2.28:1 low gear in the front box.
I need to convert the lefty to a Top Shift, then down the road will be getting, more than likely, a TG crawl box and adapter set.
I might just thrown this Lefty in for shits and giggles until I’m ready to do Duals.
You’ll be impressed with that tcase alone honestly. My brother in law is running the same in his taco and in 4lo there is really no need for dual cases imo.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
So, picked this gem up for a steal. 4.7:1 low range, Inchworm Lefty; 945 shipped to my door.
I plan on running dual cases; however, I’ll be sticking to the stock 2.28:1 low gear in the front box.
I need to convert the lefty to a Top Shift, then down the road will be getting, more than likely, a TG crawl box and adapter set.
I might just thrown this Lefty in for shits and giggles until I’m ready to do Duals.
That's a great deal! I'm looking for another Lefty myself.
Doc2012
Senior Member
That's a great deal! I'm looking for another Lefty myself.
Good luck man.
Inchworm is ‘out of business’ (though heard rumor of them coming back), and TrailGear is MONTHS out in a Verso, yet they have boxes in stock(?).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Doc2012
Senior Member
My brother (@midcoma) tan one in his Taco before he dualed/SASd it, and I was really impressed. I might just throw it in there for now, and wait and see if I want Duals. (But I really want duals. [emoji2957])
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Yeah, I don't think Kerry is letting that one go though, lol.
Doc2012
Senior Member
He’s gonna run it in his wife’s 3rd Gen, if she’d ever stop driving it.
theesotericone
New member
Just tell him to buy her a 4th Gen. It worked for me. lol
papabeach
Member
Prepping for Dual-Cases
-I got a call from Marlin, my Tacobox is about 3 weeks out with one major change…they are having problems getting their adapters made so they are now building boxes with Inchworm adapters. I hope there isn’t a difference in build quality…the price was the same.
I have read a lot of build threads and have general thoughts about what I am asking below but thought this would be a great thread to get specific comments added....and of course it helps me!
None the less I am now finalizing plans for:
1) Crossmember
2) T-Case mount
3) Drive shaft modification
Vehicle: 99 4Runner, 5spd w/URD short throw shifter, 4:88 gears, e-locker in rear, ARB up front, manual hubs, Lotus axles, 1” body lift, 285/75/16 KM3s. Currently running a full set of Shrockwork skids and would like to keep if possible. Still a daily driver…NOT a dedicated trail truck.
Plan: MC Tacobox with 4.70 in front of OEM T-Case, RADesign triple sticks
I am looking for input from this group regarding plans for 1, 2, 3 above. My original plan was to follow what [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] and others have done by modifying their crossmember and adding a Marlin HD t-case mount and having a local shop take care of my drive shafts. Well…after a couple phone calls with Marlin Crawler, Sky and BudBuilt, Tom Woods, I am now questioning my approach. I kinda get that the more people you ask the more opinions I will get so this may be a bad idea but looking for real feedback and opinions…obonoxious comments are great too as I can use a laugh!
1. Crossmember-Looking for answers regarding pros/cons as well as vibration control, also do you only support the front T-Case or are you providing support for both?
Option 1
FROR T-Case Crossmember
$255
T-Case Crossmember - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
Option 2
Rock Defense Tacoma T-Case Crossmember
$417.75
ROCK DEFENSE TACOMA T-CASE CROSSMEMBER
Option 3
(no pic)
Budbuilt universal crossmember
$$$ ???
Option 4
Custom plate/crossmember
Option 5
Combination of option 1+ option 4
2. T-Case mount options-I understand the OEM ones absorb more vibrations which for me sounds like a good idea but curious how rough the others are in real life. OEM is pricey so if not necessary would be happy to save some $$$.
Option 1
MC HD Mount
$75
Crossmember Mount, HD | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Option 2
OEM Mount
$164.84
Crossmember Mount, OEM | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Option 3
4xinnovations SuperDuty Transfer Case Mount
$73
Super Duty Transfer Case Mount for 82-95 Pickup & 4Runner
Option 4
Trail Gear Bomb Proof T-Case Mount
$101.75
https://trail-gear.com/drivetrain/t...mb-proof-t-case-mount-kit-not-for-tacoma.html
3. Driveshaft modifications-I have a local reputable shop that thinks he could get me same day turn around but after talking to Budbuilt he recommended I give Tom Woods a call and he started talking the possibility of custom stuff. So I guess my question here I, Are the vibrations from the increased angle/shortened rear shaft that bad or necessarily a given? Should I go this route and if not happy go custom?
1. Local Driveshaft shop
http://www.driveshaftspecialistsfl.com
-Can’t remember the quoted price but it was totally reasonable.
2. Tom Wood’s
Custom starts at $299 ea
https://4xshaft.com/products/toyota-drive-shaft?rq=mk_toyota~md_4-runner~yr_any
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] What did Tom Wood's do for you...curious about details if you don't mind.
*Bonus questions
Anyone upgrade/replace their transmission and/or engine mounts at the same time? I can always check them visually but after 21 years I can imagine they aren’t as strong as when they were original and might not do so well with the extra torque…
Thanks!!!
-I got a call from Marlin, my Tacobox is about 3 weeks out with one major change…they are having problems getting their adapters made so they are now building boxes with Inchworm adapters. I hope there isn’t a difference in build quality…the price was the same.
I have read a lot of build threads and have general thoughts about what I am asking below but thought this would be a great thread to get specific comments added....and of course it helps me!
None the less I am now finalizing plans for:
1) Crossmember
2) T-Case mount
3) Drive shaft modification
Vehicle: 99 4Runner, 5spd w/URD short throw shifter, 4:88 gears, e-locker in rear, ARB up front, manual hubs, Lotus axles, 1” body lift, 285/75/16 KM3s. Currently running a full set of Shrockwork skids and would like to keep if possible. Still a daily driver…NOT a dedicated trail truck.
Plan: MC Tacobox with 4.70 in front of OEM T-Case, RADesign triple sticks
I am looking for input from this group regarding plans for 1, 2, 3 above. My original plan was to follow what [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] and others have done by modifying their crossmember and adding a Marlin HD t-case mount and having a local shop take care of my drive shafts. Well…after a couple phone calls with Marlin Crawler, Sky and BudBuilt, Tom Woods, I am now questioning my approach. I kinda get that the more people you ask the more opinions I will get so this may be a bad idea but looking for real feedback and opinions…obonoxious comments are great too as I can use a laugh!
1. Crossmember-Looking for answers regarding pros/cons as well as vibration control, also do you only support the front T-Case or are you providing support for both?
Option 1
FROR T-Case Crossmember
$255
T-Case Crossmember - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
Option 2
Rock Defense Tacoma T-Case Crossmember
$417.75
ROCK DEFENSE TACOMA T-CASE CROSSMEMBER
Option 3
(no pic)
Budbuilt universal crossmember
$$$ ???
Option 4
Custom plate/crossmember
Option 5
Combination of option 1+ option 4
2. T-Case mount options-I understand the OEM ones absorb more vibrations which for me sounds like a good idea but curious how rough the others are in real life. OEM is pricey so if not necessary would be happy to save some $$$.
Option 1
MC HD Mount
$75
Crossmember Mount, HD | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Option 2
OEM Mount
$164.84
Crossmember Mount, OEM | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Option 3
4xinnovations SuperDuty Transfer Case Mount
$73
Super Duty Transfer Case Mount for 82-95 Pickup & 4Runner
Option 4
Trail Gear Bomb Proof T-Case Mount
$101.75
https://trail-gear.com/drivetrain/t...mb-proof-t-case-mount-kit-not-for-tacoma.html
3. Driveshaft modifications-I have a local reputable shop that thinks he could get me same day turn around but after talking to Budbuilt he recommended I give Tom Woods a call and he started talking the possibility of custom stuff. So I guess my question here I, Are the vibrations from the increased angle/shortened rear shaft that bad or necessarily a given? Should I go this route and if not happy go custom?
1. Local Driveshaft shop
http://www.driveshaftspecialistsfl.com
-Can’t remember the quoted price but it was totally reasonable.
2. Tom Wood’s
Custom starts at $299 ea
https://4xshaft.com/products/toyota-drive-shaft?rq=mk_toyota~md_4-runner~yr_any
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] What did Tom Wood's do for you...curious about details if you don't mind.
*Bonus questions
Anyone upgrade/replace their transmission and/or engine mounts at the same time? I can always check them visually but after 21 years I can imagine they aren’t as strong as when they were original and might not do so well with the extra torque…
Thanks!!!
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Any idea if they're the clockable adapters?
papabeach
Member
Per MC these are clockable
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
that's awesome - do they have any more available?
papabeach
Member
I am guessing not as they are always backordered but you never know....maybe someone didn't want inchworm adapters and you will get lucky.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
I emailed - we'll see. :shrug:
BTW, I'm working on a high-clearance transmission crossmember (with an extension for a crawlbox mount) but it requires either a Lefty, or some way of clocking the chain-driven transfer case...
papabeach
Member
That’s awesome! Do you have much of a body lift? You going full tummy-tuck? I was talking to budbuilt about this the other day...that’s a lot of work! Impressive for sure, can’t wait to see it.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Yeah, I'm 1.25" BL on the 4Runner , and flat bellying both the 4Runner and my Taco. The 4Runner needs the BL for clocking the chain case; the Taco fits the Lefty without a BL.
F150 tank relocation on the 4Runner, and I made some brackets to lift the stock tank 2" on the Taco.
I’m hoping this crossmember design works for both:
papabeach
Member
Yeah, I'm 1.25" BL on the 4Runner , and flat bellying both the 4Runner and my Taco. The 4Runner needs the BL for clocking the chain case; the Taco fits the Lefty without a BL.
F150 tank relocation on the 4Runner, and I made some brackets to lift the stock tank 2" on the Taco.
I’m hoping this crossmember design works for both:
Looks good and I look forward to seeing your progress. Do you have another thread on this? I am not sure that my 1” BL would provide enough space to stuff everything up, otherwise I would offer to test fit it and take some measurements. Are you planning to mod your motor mounts too? Are you planning triple sticks or something else? Might be tough if you stuff everything up to get clearance. Regardless, this is good stuff.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
I mocked up and measured with the stock transfer case last week - I need 22 degrees of clocking to clear the frame rails (and barely clear the floor with the 1.25" BL), however, my cross member design retains the stock mount location which is dropped a bit below that height, and the sides angle down toward it, so less clocking may be workable. From what I can tell sketching it out, the old BudBuilt clocking ring <s>was 15 degrees</s> *see EDIT below - not sure if that clears my cross member just yet. Worst case scenario: I make my own reduction box adapter at the transmission that clocks the required amount - then I can run standard available MC/TG/IW stuff between the reduction box and the transfer case.
All that without lifting the drivetrain (lower COG). Triple sticks, yes.
EDIT: the BudBuilt ring is probably clocked 28 degrees (did some CAD work on it while working on my clocking ring last night.)
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