Doc2012
Senior Member
Because you can buy the RADesigns shifter; and save both cupholders?
(@midcoma’s Taco for reference.)
The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread
- Thread starter Rockdawg84
- Start date
Because you can buy the RADesigns shifter; and save both cupholders?
(@midcoma’s Taco for reference.)
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION] Cup holder was joking on that. Like midcoma's setup too industrial for this project. Cruiser I mentioned was slick something feel like persuing.
If it takes same force to shift duals as it does OE setup I'm good, no dual setups near me to see for myself hands on. I don't see it taking more force be good to hear from those that run duals.
If it takes same force to shift duals as it does OE setup I'm good, no dual setups near me to see for myself hands on. I don't see it taking more force be good to hear from those that run duals.
Team_Jake
Member
I can't speak from hands on experience, but from an engineering perspective -- the RADesigns triple shifters appear to decrease the travel of the shifters attached to the rear case due to the way the linkages are positioned. This also means, all else being equal, the force needed to shift is increased by the same scale, my guess is ~1.5x, or a 50% increase in force. See my drawing below.
Do any of you dual-case guys run an automatic transmission? How do you like it?
My old 1993 Land Cruiser 80 series was an automatic (with conventional single transfer case). Climbing it was no big deal. But on descents I hated it. Even if you manually shifted into 1st gear, the torque converter would not lock up and it would over-rev and descend too fast. You constantly had to ride the brakes.
I'm just wondering how the truck would behave with a dual case and automatic on a steep descent? Is it geared so low that that gearing finally slow the truck down even though the transmission won't lock up?
My old 1993 Land Cruiser 80 series was an automatic (with conventional single transfer case). Climbing it was no big deal. But on descents I hated it. Even if you manually shifted into 1st gear, the torque converter would not lock up and it would over-rev and descend too fast. You constantly had to ride the brakes.
I'm just wondering how the truck would behave with a dual case and automatic on a steep descent? Is it geared so low that that gearing finally slow the truck down even though the transmission won't lock up?
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I have the 4.7 gear, In low low I can get out of the vehicle on steep descents.
4.7 and an automatic transmission?
yeah
Another plug for RADesigns. Rory has shift controllers that can shift an automatic like a manual and control torque converter lock up.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Or that's just a trick of the camera. Closer objects appear bigger and all that. Compare pivot bolt head dimensions for reference.
-Charlie
96RedRunner
Senior Member
.....
With Actuator's Rad's sticks not needed, rod end D flips 180* connects to actuator's one for each 2nd box lever, actuators mounted in line above behind to second box. Body lift maybe, cut tunnel hide with console, big hammer.
Two switches replace 2 sticks is the idea.
Electrical control of actuators for second box gear positions built into actuator.
Mechanical I'll figure out when I get into it.
Crazy idea.
papabeach
Member
I picked up a donor TC to pair w/the MC Tacobox. Question, Is there anything I could/should rebuild on this TC prior to mating and install? Anybody wish they cracked/re-sealed their stock T-Case all to find out later it started leaking? The T4R member I purchased it from said it came from a 1999 w/ ~190K. Everything shifted fine prior to removal. When he split it from the Transmission there were no signs of leaking. I am hopeful/guessing that the oil stains on the outside are simply from seepage during shipping. Also, for those of you with the Inchworm adapters…did you clock at all? Should I just install as is and see how it goes? I do have a 1” BL and it is a 5spd. Anything I should be considering as I start putting things together?
It will never hurt to reseal while you have it removed, especially buying it used and not being positive of the history. The chain cases are pretty straight forward for disassembly/reassembly. Is it required, no, but extra piece of mind if you have the time. You'll want to get a new pinion nut if you open it up though.
Which Inchworm adapter do you have? I've run multiple in a few different clocked settings. Pretty much comes down to what your goals are. One of my goals was a flat belly, so I had to clock the case.
Clocking benefits:
More ground clearance/flatter belly
Clocking drawbacks:
Possible floor cutting
Shifter modification
With the dual cases you also have to make sure your front driveshaft will clear the transmission crossmember.
papabeach
Member
Thanks for the thoughts on the TC. Wasn't tracking the need for a new pinion nut so thank you.
Not sure what to say about the adapter except it is the adapter that Marlin shipped out a few months back with their Tacobox builds...hopefully the pic is helpful. My g\oals are to just get it in and get going with as few mods as possible right now. A tummy tuck, SAS, etc may be part of the next generation of mods for this truck...but not now. It seems like every decade or so of ownership has seen some significant changes...
owyheerat
New member
Anything I should be considering as I start putting things together?[/QUOTE]
Sorry for slow reply. If you decide to use Rad designs triple sticks (which I highly recommend), you will need to disassemble the stock case and grind the 'nub' off the shift fork. At that time you could inspect everything and install new seals.
I have inchworm adapter and I did not clock it.
Good luck
Durwin
Sorry for slow reply. If you decide to use Rad designs triple sticks (which I highly recommend), you will need to disassemble the stock case and grind the 'nub' off the shift fork. At that time you could inspect everything and install new seals.
I have inchworm adapter and I did not clock it.
Good luck
Durwin
papabeach
Member
Getting closer...dry fit complete, time to take apart and seal it up... getting excited! Quick question...looking for confirmation for shifting pattern. Center Stick Crawlbox is H-N-L; drivers side shifter is factory TC H-L; passenger side shifter is 2-4?
Attachments
papabeach
Member
They're in! Time to drop off the driveshafts for modification. 8.5" difference flange to flange now: (R: 41.5" F: 35"). Next shifter clearance. [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] your thread has been helpful for clearance issues. Anything you regret or wish you did different? Do you find your self using the whole over the rear case? rkntoy's Really Slow Dual Case Install
Rockdawg84
New member
Welcome to the super slow life! you have been added to the list in post 2
rkntoy
New member
They're in! Time to drop off the driveshafts for modification. 8.5" difference flange to flange now: (R: 41.5" F: 35"). Next shifter clearance. [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] your thread has been helpful for clearance issues. Anything you regret or wish you did different? Do you find your self using the whole over the rear case? rkntoy's Really Slow Dual Case Install
Glad the thread helped. I have used my access hole to add some nylon washers to the linkages to keep them from buzzing at certain RPMs. Much easier than trying to access from underneath.
papabeach
Member
It runs, it shifts and it goes very very SLOOOOWWW!!! First test drive was a success. Looks like my plan to modify the crossmember for the crawlbox mount isn’t going to work, not enough driveshaft clearance. I was hopeful it would be ok but only on level ground…can barely get a finger under the driveshaft. I am thinking either custom mount or more likely the TG mount and customize it later as others have done. I was surprised to see how low the rear case hangs down…lower than the rear crossmember. Still need to finish modifying the shifters (I bent them a little already but need more heat/hammer and then piece the interior back together. It was interesting driving down the road with the hole in the transmission tunnel open…could hear the gears whirling a bit, made me smile. I am thinking about pulling the front driveshaft for now, not want to bang it up and don’t need it right now, though not sure if it is ok to drive much without better support. Anyone know if it is ok to drive like this for a bit or am I dancing with badness? Big thanks to everyone who offered advice/tips…I am excited to get this on the trail with everything locked up and in low/low just to see…
