Timing Belt DIY, specialty tools needed!!

Zottyzot

New member
I'll be replacing my timing belt & water pump in the next couple of weeks.
Does anyone in the Philly area have the tensioner release tool that I could rent or borrow? Or any homegrown hack for getting the tensioner released?
I also wouldn't mind having a pulley puller on site in case the crank pulley gives me a hard time...
I'm in Abington, PA

Thanks!
 
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Zottyzot;1814664 Does anyone in the Philly area have the tensioner release tool that I could rent or borrow? [/QUOTE said:
How about your local auto part stores? They loan tools around here.... Luck and :cheers:
 
You can make a harmonic balancer holder for less than 20 dollars

If you are replacing the tensioner just remove it and don't worry about compressing it
 
You can make a harmonic balancer holder for less than 20 dollars

If you are replacing the tensioner just remove it and don't worry about compressing it

I am replacing the tensioner, so you're saying I can simply unbolt the one that's on there now? No need to compress and use the grenade pin to hold it in place?
 
I am replacing the tensioner, so you're saying I can simply unbolt the one that's on there now? No need to compress and use the grenade pin to hold it in place?
Correct if your replacing the tensioner you don't need the tool. The new one comes with a pin so it is already compressed. Pull the pin and your good to go.
 
I am replacing the tensioner, so you're saying I can simply unbolt the one that's on there now? No need to compress and use the grenade pin to hold it in place?



No need to compress if removing and replacing with a new one. The new one will come already compressed and pinned. When you pull the pin, be sure to do it on the slack side of the timing belt to avoid jumping teeth.


For the crank pully SST, I just made one. Going to test it out this weekend with my timing belt replacement...

Don't forget to replace the crank bolt with a new one. Those are listed as non-reusable. (I'm sure people have reused them, but it's worth mentioning... )
 
Correct if your replacing the tensioner you don't need the tool. The new one comes with a pin so it is already compressed. Pull the pin and your good to go.

Yep. (Only pull the pin AFTER it and the belt are installed, obviously.) You can leave the A/C on if you are artful with a long 1/4" drive wobble extension. But you will need a pulley holder to tighten the crank bolt--217 ft-lbs on a critical part is not to guess at or just hit with an impact and call it good. You could lose your engine if it backs out--it has happened more than once.

I have both tools, but I'm a little over 90 min. from Philly. I'll be down there in two weeks. Not sure yet of exact date.
 
You also want to make sure you get the belt on the proper cogs. I started at the crank and went up the drivers side and down the passenger side. It's easy to be off a cog on one of the cams.
 
Not that it applies to the OP since he's replacing the tensioner, but I compressed mine in a vise and put a pin in it to hold it.

Made a harmonic balancer holder out of a piece of flat stock with three holes in it. One big one in the center for the socket to go through and two small ones to insert bolts (not threaded) into the two holes in the balancer.

Welded a piece of tubing to it to act as a lever to hold it from turning. Cost $0 as it was scrap I had on hand.
 
Yep. (Only pull the pin AFTER it and the belt are installed, obviously.) You can leave the A/C on if you are artful with a long 1/4" drive wobble extension. But you will need a pulley holder to tighten the crank bolt--217 ft-lbs on a critical part is not to guess at or just hit with an impact and call it good. You could lose your engine if it backs out--it has happened more than once.

I have both tools, but I'm a little over 90 min. from Philly. I'll be down there in two weeks. Not sure yet of exact date.

NOW you tell me, I just took apart the front of the 3.4 in my girlfriends' 95 Tacoma and I pulled all four bolts off the compressor and all 5 bolts off the bracket. I didn't need any puller and the starter trick worked well on the crank pulley bolt. It got dark so I stopped, I'll finish it up tomorrow.

:bash:
 
NOW you tell me, I just took apart the front of the 3.4 in my girlfriends' 95 Tacoma and I pulled all four bolts off the compressor and all 5 bolts off the bracket. I didn't need any puller and the starter trick worked well on the crank pulley bolt. It got dark so I stopped, I'll finish it up tomorrow.

:bash:

If it makes you feel better, I did the same thing, and THEN I read about about the wobble technique on this forum.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm relatively handy with a wrench, about how long do you think this job should take? Keep in mind it's my first time doing this particular job and I'll be doing it in my driveway using no air tools.
 
Do you have a 1/2" drive 18" or longer breaker bar to get the harmonic balancer bolt loose? You're not going to get it loose with a ratchet. I had to put a cheater bar on a breaker bar to have enough leverage to pop it loose.
 
Do you have a 1/2" drive 18" or longer breaker bar to get the harmonic balancer bolt loose? You're not going to get it loose with a ratchet. I had to put a cheater bar on a breaker bar to have enough leverage to pop it loose.

I haven't actually measured it, but yes I have a 1/2" breaker bar and I have a piece of pipe I use as a cheater.
 
12 hours is not an unreasonable amount of time for a first-time job with basic tools. It took me at least that long taking my time, double-checking things, and looking things up whenever I had a question about a process.


I found that removing the factory air box made accessing the AC and AC bracket bolts much easier.


10, 12, and 14mm gear wrenches also make the job much easier, as well as a series of socket extensions and a wobbly adapter.


For the crank pulley, I made a tool with some bar stock and some solid rod. Threaded a pair of rod pieces to screw into the bar, then drilled a hole between them large enough for the socket to fit. Tool worked well in conjunction with my breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Just make sure you have a torque wrench that can go up to 250 ft/lb on hand, as the crank bolt needs 217 ft/lb per the FSM. I'm not convinced mine had that much on from the factory though, but it has that much now :)

Another interesting thing.. the FSM lists the crank bolt as a non-reusable part. I went to the local toyota dealership and tried to buy one, but they do not even stock them. I asked what they do for timing belts, and they said the techs reuse them unless they are damaged. So I reused mine.

I also found that the crank sprocket is rather fragile, and that the CPS teeth tend to break off when dropped onto concrete. I also learned that a new crank sprocket costs around 70 bucks from the dealer. That was fun.

But overall, it was pretty straight forward and not overly difficult.
 
I just recently did mine. It was a total PITA. The tensioner bolt locations absolutely sucked so I struggled with the last bolt, didn't wanna take off any extra stuff. I had a pulley holder I used on the cams instead of putting the bolt back into the crank and turning it since I feared I'd ruin TDC when I went to remove the bolt. My timings all lined up good but the belt was off a little, I personally read that it didn't matter and was just preference and I was tired so I said forget it. I just advise to always be careful, I broke my AC pulley "bolt" since I was previously tightening the crankshaft pulley and I forgot to not put all my strength lol. Reaching 217 ft/lb requires a lot of strength and I believe I hit it, I heard a click with my torque wrench as my pulley holding tool snapped(2x4 with bolts). No wobble so I'm happy. Engine makes a slight ticking noise but I've read that's nothing and for the life of me I can't remember if it always made it or if I was just paranoid. Also put some thread locker stuff on the water pump bolts. And on first start it's going to scare you and make you think you did something wrong since it'll be very loud, but that's the system flushing the air out of the system and since the water pump is dry( no coolant there until it starts cycling. I'd drive it locally to get it warmed up so the thermostat opens and you check for leaks constantly throughout the week. 3 weeks now and it's been good, just still gotta fix my AC. Good luck to you!
 
I haven't actually measured it, but yes I have a 1/2" breaker bar and I have a piece of pipe I use as a cheater.

Personally I'd just bump the starter and use the cheat method. Use your breaker bar of course and make sure it's not in the way of anything and under the frame. Mine popped off instantly with that.
 

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