Tire Fit: 285/75/17, no body lift & V6... Possible?

I have 285/75r17 nitto ridge grapplers with no body lift, total chaos UCAs, demello front bumper, cbi rear bumper. I only rub on the front body mounts when flexing it out and turning a certain direction. here is a pic of the rear stuffed

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

I am so glad you chimed in awesomesauce! This is exactly what I needed to see. You are the first person to give me a definitive answer, much appreciated.

Looks like I am going to pull the trigger...

1. From your build thread it looks like you do not have adjustable rear links (control arms)?

2. Did you do the body mount chop and/or pinch weld modifications?

3. Would you happen to know your caster? This seems to be another factor in most builds I have seen.

Thanks in advance
 
I am so glad you chimed in awesomesauce! This is exactly what I needed to see. You are the first person to give me a definitive answer, much appreciated.

Looks like I am going to pull the trigger...

1. From your build thread it looks like you do not have adjustable rear links (control arms)?

2. Did you do the body mount chop and/or pinch weld modifications?

3. Would you happen to know your caster? This seems to be another factor in most builds I have seen.

Thanks in advance

I do not have adjustable rear links and have not done a body mount chop or pinch weld modification. As for the caster I'm not 100% but I believe it is a high 2 or low 3 on both sides. I believe if I were to do the body mount chop it wouldn't rub at all.
 
I do not have adjustable rear links and have not done a body mount chop or pinch weld modification. As for the caster I'm not 100% but I believe it is a high 2 or low 3 on both sides. I believe if I were to do the body mount chop it wouldn't rub at all.

How do you like those tires with that size going down the road, and offroad. Could you take some pics of it and the clearance at the front? Do you think wheel spacers are necessary to fit these with aftermarket UCA's and FJ trail wheels.
 
I do not have adjustable rear links and have not done a body mount chop or pinch weld modification. As for the caster I'm not 100% but I believe it is a high 2 or low 3 on both sides. I believe if I were to do the body mount chop it wouldn't rub at all.

Good to know. Kind of crazy you have so little rub, you might be one of the only ones, I hope mine are that easy to fit. I am definitely doing the body mount chop but I may wait to do the pinch weld until they are mounted and I can flex them out a little bit.

You have the V6 right? How are the MPGs looking? Power?
 
How do you like those tires with that size going down the road, and offroad. Could you take some pics of it and the clearance at the front? Do you think wheel spacers are necessary to fit these with aftermarket UCA's and FJ trail wheels.

So far, they don't make much road noise, but only time will tell. Offroad they have been great so far. I'm not sure if you'd need wheel spacers with the FJ trail wheels because I don't know the offset of those wheels. I can tell you my wheels are 17x8.5 with a -6 offset. As you can see with the photos below, I do rub slightly on the sway bar on both sides when flexed out and turning so I would think that with the fj wheels, if they don't have a negative offset, you would need spacers.
NXThSP4.jpg

Oe7Ed0k.jpg

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I only have problems with rubbing when I'm flexing out.
 
Good to know. Kind of crazy you have so little rub, you might be one of the only ones, I hope mine are that easy to fit. I am definitely doing the body mount chop but I may wait to do the pinch weld until they are mounted and I can flex them out a little bit.

You have the V6 right? How are the MPGs looking? Power?

I do have the V6, MPGs are pretty good, didn't take a huge hit with the jump in size and weight from the 275/70r17 to the 285/75r17. I can get about 300 out of a tank if all highway, but I average about 260ish. Power is also still decent. Definitely doing a lot better than I expected.
 
Any more recent pics of this set up? specifically with stock bumpers?

Unfortunately I do not have pics of this tire setup with the stock bumpers because I bought these tires after doing the front and rear bumper. I do have some pics of it with the 275/70r17 KO2s with stock bumpers though. The front suspension is the same as now but in the rear I have the toytec superflex HD springs in these pics.
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imPs9rZ.jpg
 
[MENTION=119480]awesomesauce0528[/MENTION] I have no sway bar, however the fj wheels I believe are 4.5" BS. I guess ill throw em on and decide after
 
I do have the V6, MPGs are pretty good, didn't take a huge hit with the jump in size and weight from the 275/70r17 to the 285/75r17. I can get about 300 out of a tank if all highway, but I average about 260ish. Power is also still decent. Definitely doing a lot better than I expected.

Not bad... I am definitely going to pull the trigger. One last thing, how much lift do you have in the front end? Do you know your hub to fender?
 
Isn't gas mileage loss relative to the diameter of the tire a little off?
Technically the speedometer will think you are going a few percent slower to get the same distance, therefore lower miles indicated on the odometer for the same use of fuel. There's probably a way to accurately measure the +/- difference with some math.

63,360 inches in a mile

35" tire =
109.95" circumference
576 revolutions per mile


37" tire =
116.24" circumference
545 revolutions per mile

Difference of 21 revolutions per mile:
21/576=.0364

So possibly 3 to 4 % difference of indicated fuel economy loss, but not actual reduction in fuel economy (depending on what size you start with of course)
 
I'm running 295/70/17 Cooper STT Pros and no bodylift. I have extended travel Icon's with Total Chaos UCA's.

Currently the coilovers are set to about 2" of lift and I do not rub at all even at full compression. Pinch weld fold/mod and bodymount chop done as well as trimming the bottom of the front flares. This will change though depending on Caster and wheel backspacing. I am running a pretty agressive wheel fitment which contributes to my flare trimming. Caster is at +3.4 IIR on my last alignment.

Pics of the trimming required in my build thread. I suspect the 285/75/17 to be easier to fit though...
 
I'm running 295/70/17 Cooper STT Pros and no bodylift. I have extended travel Icon's with Total Chaos UCA's.

Currently the coilovers are set to about 2" of lift and I do not rub at all even at full compression. Pinch weld fold/mod and bodymount chop done as well as trimming the bottom of the front flares. This will change though depending on Caster and wheel backspacing. I am running a pretty agressive wheel fitment which contributes to my flare trimming. Caster is at +3.4 IIR on my last alignment.

Pics of the trimming required in my build thread. I suspect the 285/75/17 to be easier to fit though...

Picturessss
 
Picturessss

Here is a shot of my pinchweld mod. Tried to do as few cuts as possible to help avoid any future corrosion points. Also folded the OE fender liner tab back so that I could use it to mount my custom inner fender liners.

_DSC0192.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr

Here is my mad rake. Not sure if I want to get rid of the Metal Tech LT rear coils or raise the front end a bit:

_08I0486 by Tamarack Media Co., on Flickr
 
[MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] what did you find the best way to bang in those pinch welds was? Planning to start that and the BMC in the next week or so.
 
[MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] what did you find the best way to bang in those pinch welds was? Planning to start that and the BMC in the next week or so.

Just use a big hammer, or a crescent wrench to bend it to get started and then come in with the hammer. If you bend the pinch weld toward you, you can get a bit more clearance but it's not a big deal either way.
 
[MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] what did you find the best way to bang in those pinch welds was? Planning to start that and the BMC in the next week or so.

Just use a big hammer, or a crescent wrench to bend it to get started and then come in with the hammer. If you bend the pinch weld toward you, you can get a bit more clearance but it's not a big deal either way.

I used a crescent wrench to start the bend after I made the cuts with my grinder. After that I used a ~6" wood block up against the pinch welds (had a trusting friend hold it in place) while I hammered them with a sledge. I've done dozens of pinch weld mods and have always found the block method to be pretty good cause it makes the fold more uniform. I was even able to avoid chipping the paint by using the block method.
[MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] is right though, folding it the other way might gain you a little bit extra clearance, but I liked how cleanly I could fold it the other way having better access to swing the hammer!
 
I used a crescent wrench to start the bend after I made the cuts with my grinder. After that I used a ~6" wood block up against the pinch welds (had a trusting friend hold it in place) while I hammered them with a sledge. I've done dozens of pinch weld mods and have always found the block method to be pretty good cause it makes the fold more uniform. I was even able to avoid chipping the paint by using the block method.

[MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] is right though, folding it the other way might gain you a little bit extra clearance, but I liked how cleanly I could fold it the other way having better access to swing the hammer!

where did you cut with a grinder?
 

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