Tired of Shafts

[FJ4Runner]

Can someone please point me to an online retailer for the proper 2001 4x4 4Runner rear drive shaft? I've been looking for days.

No one seems to have anything close...

I originally wanted to rebuild the shaft myself, but it was entirely too much BS to deal with considering the extremely frustrating Double Cardan joint. Everyone on this forum talks about how easy it is. First off, the yoke is impossible to find. Secondly I just don't have time to continue banging my head against the wall.

Plenty of shops that I've talked to about rebuilding it as well turn and run when they see the D.C. Why the heck did Toyota make this thing like this?

All I'm hoping for is an adequate replacement. (I don't want to go dig thru some junk yard)

 

[weezykid]

Did you go with a factory replacement shaft from Tom Woods or one of his 1310 ujoint swap shafts?

Need to get one for my 96. Will be calling High Angle this week to check on a new shaft or ship him mine for a rebuild. They will do either and use factory Koyo joints.

I've changed many ujoints on chevys over the years without many issues. Even have a ujoint/balljoint press. But I couldnt get the single joint out of my rear shaft so I wasnt going to attempt the DC. haha. The joint wont push through far enough to get both caps off.

 

[soupkitchen]

I went with one of these last year complete ready to swap in. Was well packed and rides out smooth. Cost was good too.

2001 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft - Toyota 4Runner Driveline - Free Shipping

 

[AntleredRuin]

Tired of Shafts

Insert trolling post about lesbians here:girl:

 

[JayRolla]

Call up https://www.highangledriveline.com/. They quoted me $150 few years back. He uses OEM toyota parts from another cv/double cardan for our shafts. Of coarse he does not give this info out. Good luck!

 

[catrains]

Can someone please point me to an online retailer for the proper 2001 4x4 4Runner rear drive shaft? I've been looking for days.

No one seems to have anything close...



All I'm hoping for is an adequate replacement. (I don't want to go dig thru some junk yard)

yes the scrap yard digging .. you will get dirty but you will find one. Toyota dealership no way !

THEY WILL TELL YOU TO BUY A NEW TRUCK IF YOU GO TO THE DEALERSHIP...

 

[00Spork]

These guys are awesome, local shop here in Denver, you'd have to call to get more information than what I can provide. Good luck.

Driveshaft International | Providing World-Class Driveshafts Worldwide | A Rocky Mountain Driveline Company

 

[weezykid]

By request I have Spicer 1310s in mine. Their standard is to use TW in house 'Gold Seal' 1310s. I asked who made those for TW and didn't get an answer so went with the Spicers. Cost is same for either. TW GS carry better warranty including the whole shaft in event of u-joint failure. Spicer warranty is of course just the u-joint.

To answer your question, if you request a build for a Toyota "Type A rear drive shaft" (see their web site) around 45" long. You'll get 1310s in it, not the slightly different sized Asian/Foreign sized u-joints like in the OEM shaft. I suppose you could ask for custom but would undoubtedly cost more with lead time. Pretty sure the torque handling is the same or better in 1310s. My only other potential concerns were overall parts size (potential of hitting gas skid) and possibly losing angle in the CV. On the bench angles looked good (about the same) on the 1310 based CV. Haven't noticed any hitting or knocking on the gas skid either. I've only had it on for 200 miles.

I recommend their work and would buy from them again.

The yota joint vs 1310 has come up quite a bit over the years. The 1310 is far easier to change. There was a Pirate thread that quoted Jesse at High Angle stating the factory Koyo joint is much stronger than the 1310 closer to a 1350 joint. Chris Geiger of Trail Gear stated the breaking point of the OEM Koyo ujoint is 3700 lbft.

 

[weezykid]

I agree with you on the 1310's it is not like you are running 40's or 500hp... They hold up fine under a 1/2 pick-up. I have been debating on going with the 1310's just for ease of changing if it ever needed to be done. And I have used Tom Woods in the past for a Jeep shaft and was very happy.

 

[nissanh]

How long is the yoke in yours? I have an extra yoke without a U-joint.

Good used drive shafts without zero play at U-joints are far better than any aftermarket shafts.

 

[weezykid]

Well I pulled the trigger on a Tom Woods shaft. Have a trip coming up and it put me on a time frame. Going with High Angle I would have to send out my rear shaft, have him rebuild it and fix anything that is wrong and then wait for the return.. If I had more time, I have heard a lot of good things about his work and definitely would like to try him. But with the timeframe I went with a complete new shaft from Tom Woods. They default to the 1310's and the lifetime warranty "gold seal joints" are included. With these joint they warranty the joints and the shaft due to any joint breaks. Should be here Monday.

It was really easy to order. Measure both flanges according to their diagrams then get an overall length flange to flange. They took all the info and gave me a quote for a completely new double cardan shaft.

 

[weezykid]

Interesting as mine was 48 9/16".

 

[weezykid]

Did you measure on the ground or at full droop on a hoist? Or maybe you are running a sizable lift or have a 5-speed? My number was on the ground, 5VZ, automatic transmission, 2yo '99 talls springs with small spacers in back.

Mine was on the ground. My T4R is stock, 5VFE, auto, manual shift t-case, Moog coils in the rear, factory springs/shocks in the front with 160k miles.

I thought I read somewhere limiteds run a different shaft in the rear than the SR5's. My factory shaft and the junkyard one I have both had a sticker on them with "PN28".