Tironeous “Build” Thread

Hi and nice lift with the 6112s with 650lbs. I have the lower rated springs so mine sits lower 22" and rub only in reverse with my 275/70/17 but my -10 offset doesn't help but looks good stancewise.

Simple questions. What clip do you have set on each side and how is ride?

Mike
 
Tironeous (Build) Thread

Hi and nice lift with the 6112s with 650lbs. I have the lower rated springs so mine sits lower 22" and rub only in reverse with my 275/70/17 but my -10 offset doesn't help but looks good stancewise.

Simple questions. What clip do you have set on each side and how is ride?

Mike


I’ve got it on the second highest (5th) setting on both sides. I also have a 1/4” aluminum spacer on the driver side. There’s still 1/8” of difference between driver and passenger with a full tank of gas. You don’t notice it when looking at the truck.

I’m hoping these settle a bit. The front is currently 1/4” higher than the rear after the alignment. I’m going to drive it like this for 500miles or so before making any adjustments. I may need to move it down a notch (4th position) if it doesn’t level out.

The ride is great. Stiffer than what it was, but not harsh at all. Overall I’m pleased with the results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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After a few days and an alignment (which called for new inner and outer tie rods on both sides) I had a 1/2” of reverse rake! Definitely not digging the Carolina squat.

02ef600f496cdd1480aeb00747d36380.jpg


I took it apart using the no spring compressor method and lowered it two clips. It’s now sitting at clip 3 on both sides. The front is now 1/4”lower than the rear. To me, that’s perfect. I’ll upload a pic tomorrow. Lighting in my garage sucks.
 
My sub blew so I decided to replace that. It’s nothing too crazy, but fits the factory location and sounds much better. I’m still using the factory amp.


fd4a2a94a041633501394622ff48e37e.jpg


Shortly after the install I realized just how poor the 15 year old JBL speakers sounded compared to the new sub. I decided to replace the fronts with 6.5” Focal components and the rears with 6.5” 2 way speakers. These speakers are highly efficient so I wasn’t worried about the ohm rating being different than factory. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures.

Next was the headunit. I wanted CarPlay and looked at a number of units. It seemed too costly to go for wireless CarPlay. My logic was if I’m using it for maps, I’d likely want my phone plugged in anyway to not drain the battery. Also, make sure you get a headunit with a capacitive touchscreen. This is the type of technology used for smartphone displays and not all headunits use this. I’ve always liked Sony products.

4dd06f0f19faded2fb09be921f05c9e4.jpg



Lastly I added a new backup camera. The hardest part was snaking the wires through the tailgate. I eventually got this sorted and the quality it outstanding compared to the factory unit.


Nice install on the headunit. I went with a Pioneer unit with wireless CarPlay. I bought mine from Cruthfield too. I also bought a backup camera as well from them. In hindsight wireless CarPlay is nice but my phone is always plugged in and charging anyway so it's really not needed unless someone makes very short trips.

My unit came with both wireless and wired CaPlay plus Android auto. I ran the two USB connections (CarPlay and Android auto) into the glovebox and never use them since I always use wireless now.

A couple of questions...

1) Where did you run your wired connections to? Did you run them to those aftermarket plus on the center console?


2) I want to no longer use the cigarette lighter to charge my phone or my passengers phone and would like to use one of those USB adapters that fit the center console unused holes. There are so many on Amazon and its hard to tell any are good or how well they charge a newer phone.

Do you have a recommendation on which ones to use?


3) I am still using the stock speakers and have to admit it sounds pretty damn good for stock. I know you had a blown speaker but do you think that still wold be an improvement over the stock ones?

thanks!
 
After a few days and an alignment (which called for new inner and outer tie rods on both sides) I had a 1/2” of reverse rake! Definitely not digging the Carolina squat.

02ef600f496cdd1480aeb00747d36380.jpg


I took it apart using the no spring compressor method and lowered it two clips. It’s now sitting at clip 3 on both sides. The front is now 1/4”lower than the rear. To me, that’s perfect. I’ll upload a pic tomorrow. Lighting in my garage sucks.


The promised picture. Liking this look and the way it rides.
130449ec349b0241021d386c388cef89.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nice install on the headunit. I went with a Pioneer unit with wireless CarPlay. I bought mine from Cruthfield too. I also bought a backup camera as well from them. In hindsight wireless CarPlay is nice but my phone is always plugged in and charging anyway so it's really not needed unless someone makes very short trips.

My unit came with both wireless and wired CaPlay plus Android auto. I ran the two USB connections (CarPlay and Android auto) into the glovebox and never use them since I always use wireless now.

A couple of questions...

1) Where did you run your wired connections to? Did you run them to those aftermarket plus on the center console?


2) I want to no longer use the cigarette lighter to charge my phone or my passengers phone and would like to use one of those USB adapters that fit the center console unused holes. There are so many on Amazon and its hard to tell any are good or how well they charge a newer phone.

Do you have a recommendation on which ones to use?


3) I am still using the stock speakers and have to admit it sounds pretty damn good for stock. I know you had a blown speaker but do you think that still wold be an improvement over the stock ones?

thanks!

I debated on wired vs wireless car play for a while. I pretty much only use the map for long trips where I'll have my phone plugged in anyway. Otherwise I just use bluetooth around town. Wired was the right choice and I saved some money. I'm sure you'll enjoy the Pioneer unit!

1. My radio had two wired connections for USB. USB 1 does CarPlay and USB 2 does other file types (FLAC audio, pictures for background, etc). I ran them to the center USBs that I added.

2. The USB adapters I used have 1 USB extension and 1 powered circuit. I connected the USBs on the back of the headheadunit to the USBs on the plugs. I used some electrical take to ensure good contact. For the charging outputs I ran the wires under my dash and used an add a circuit fuse tap. I grounded it on a screw in the footwell.

3. The sub was blown so it had to be done. After upgrading that I realized just how bad the rest of the speakers sound. Your truck is likely about 15 years old. Even cheap aftermarket speakers will sound night-and-day better.
 
Tironeous (Build) Thread

Stock
Trail Wheels with 265/65/17 tires
4c2e001c6f65f0bd053a0de4501c1158.jpg

8dd12eb1414b7c6f16a5c31280e3151a.jpg

Lifted
Bilstein 6112 with 650lb Spring. 3rd circlip both sides. 1/4” spacer on driver side
Total Chaos UCAs
Bilstein 5160 and Icon 2” spring
Trail Wheels with 265/65/17 tires

Ground to fender gains:
Front: 4"
Rear: 2 1/4"
I suspect my front had sagged about an inch. Maybe more. Just look at it!
There's about 1/8" of driver side lean depending on how much gas I have. A 3/8" spacer (instead of the 1/4” installed) would be perfect.
 
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I debated on wired vs wireless car play for a while. I pretty much only use the map for long trips where I'll have my phone plugged in anyway. Otherwise I just use bluetooth around town. Wired was the right choice and I saved some money. I'm sure you'll enjoy the Pioneer unit!

1. My radio had two wired connections for USB. USB 1 does CarPlay and USB 2 does other file types (FLAC audio, pictures for background, etc). I ran them to the center USBs that I added.

2. The USB adapters I used have 1 USB extension and 1 powered circuit. I connected the USBs on the back of the headheadunit to the USBs on the plugs. I used some electrical take to ensure good contact. For the charging outputs I ran the wires under my dash and used an add a circuit fuse tap. I grounded it on a screw in the footwell.

3. The sub was blown so it had to be done. After upgrading that I realized just how bad the rest of the speakers sound. Your truck is likely about 15 years old. Even cheap aftermarket speakers will sound night-and-day better.


Thanks for the link to the USB adapter. The Pioneer unit has been great so far but would like to run the wired CarPlay port to the center console in case I want to use that instead of going wireless. Plus it is a cleaner solution then leaving a long USB cable in the glovebox.

Was the supplied USB cable long enough to make it from the back of the radio to the center console where you installed the adapter or did you need to buy a different length cable?
 
Thanks for the link to the USB adapter. The Pioneer unit has been great so far but would like to run the wired CarPlay port to the center console in case I want to use that instead of going wireless. Plus it is a cleaner solution then leaving a long USB cable in the glovebox.

Was the supplied USB cable long enough to make it from the back of the radio to the center console where you installed the adapter or did you need to buy a different length cable?


It was long enough to reach the back of my unit. The unit itself has a 6” cable or so coming out of the back of it. I carefully tucked the wires up under the console and it all reached.
 
Ordered some new shoes!
Stealth Custom Series - GEN5
Gloss Dark Bronze
17x8.5
-10 offset
Going to wrap them in 285 Wildpeaks

b4f63786c8c5bfd1a86824ad203a55bb.jpg
 
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TPMS Bypass

Getting the new wheels and tires put on soon and decided to ditch TPMS. I tend to check my tire pressures somewhat regularly. Especially before longer drives.

Also, I don’t like the idea of paying extra to move the current sensors over or having to pay for new sensors. A few minutes later and TPMS is defeated.

There’s one screw beneath the glove box. Unplug the cables and jump the pink/black wire with the white/black wire. Plug it back in and you’re done. No more TPMS.

917d582c4bea48a95cafb3af560fa160.jpg
 
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Getting the new wheels and tires put on soon and decided to ditch TPMS. I tend to check my tire pressures somewhat regularly. Especially before longer drives.

Also, I don’t like the idea of paying extra to move the current sensors over or having to pay for new sensors. A few minutes later and TPMS is defeated.

There’s one screw beneath the glove box. Unplug the cables and jump the pink/black wire with the white/black wire. Plug it back in and you’re done. No more TPMS.

Wow, I didn’t know it was that easy to bypass it. I was in a similar situation earlier this year but I got lucky and got a gently used set of sensors off a 2015 for almost nothing. A local tire shop was able to install them for $50 since I had already programmed them prior.

Good to know though as I might go that route if I ever get another set of wheels.
 

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