octanejunkie
Elite Member
$332.06, but free shipping
Dude, just find someone parting out a Limited on the classifieds here or on YT
TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)
- Thread starter TonyB66
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$332.06, but free shipping
Dude, just find someone parting out a Limited on the classifieds here or on YT
Took a few pictures, but this is the only one not over-exposed.
The top of the photo is the leading edge of seat....
The sheathing with blue tape, on the left, contains the wires connected to the seat belt receiver. That goes to a small black connector.
What I found interesting during my Recaro install is that having the seats totally unplugged seemed to avoid any lights coming on, so that is how I have left my setup, without the belt receptacles plugged in. The airbag light still comes on for its usual few seconds during startup but nothing otherwise.
This is opposite to what I would expect coming from the BMW/MINI world, but seems to add up when I look at the wiring diagram for my '02.
TonyB66
New member
:thumb:
mikentosh, really glad you brought that up because I was wondering just that!
When I had both seats out, which I do again, I had reason to start the truck a few times, and no lights. I even "drove" a bit in the driveway (forward and reverse a few feet) with no seats just to see if that might make a difference, and no lights. So, I might just try that first. I appreciate you chiming-in...
Speaking of the seats, I finally opened the Corbeau box tonight. Both seats are inside, still wrapped, and quite well. No brackets and sliders, so I'll need to call on those tomorrow...
2ndhandyotaman
Member
wonderful. I just broke mine about an hour ago re-installing a dead climate control unit.
TonyB66
New member
Damn. Sorry to hear about that, really.
Well, 3,000 miles apart, at least we won't be competing at the same salvage yards and Craigslist postings!
With this dang thing off now, I want to do everything i might want to do in there before I install a replacement...
TonyB66
New member
Well, no seat install for a while, possibly sometime next year. Both brackets with sliders have not shipped yet... Hopefully next week they can be sent.
Green NEO3 bulbs are now delayed until after Christmas, so I can't wrap-up the auto climate control lighting.
So, I finally made some time to remove a rear door panel. Nothing broke! A little paranoid now...
I removed the stock speaker and just as I was about to start figuring-out how to fab something for a 6.5" speaker, I found a thread where forum member "2ndhandyotaman" had created such an adaptor, and is selling them. After making sure that the mounting depth of these rear speakers is less than 2", I ordered a pair of these adaptors. He'll ship on Tuesday...
For those who have installed these larger diameter speakers in the rear, has anyone modified the door panels accordingly? The speaker holes in the door panel are for a somewhat smaller speaker (5 1/4"). I suppose no big deal, just wondering...
In the meantime, I'll start cleaning-up the door, getting it prepared for the butyl sound-deadening. I guess just remove that vapor barrier (thin plastic sheet) entirely, and maybe reinstall something similar when done?
Found someone parting-out a 2000 Limited and I inquired if he still has that center bezel piece I busted. Hoping to hear some good news...
Green NEO3 bulbs are now delayed until after Christmas, so I can't wrap-up the auto climate control lighting.
So, I finally made some time to remove a rear door panel. Nothing broke! A little paranoid now...
I removed the stock speaker and just as I was about to start figuring-out how to fab something for a 6.5" speaker, I found a thread where forum member "2ndhandyotaman" had created such an adaptor, and is selling them. After making sure that the mounting depth of these rear speakers is less than 2", I ordered a pair of these adaptors. He'll ship on Tuesday...
For those who have installed these larger diameter speakers in the rear, has anyone modified the door panels accordingly? The speaker holes in the door panel are for a somewhat smaller speaker (5 1/4"). I suppose no big deal, just wondering...
In the meantime, I'll start cleaning-up the door, getting it prepared for the butyl sound-deadening. I guess just remove that vapor barrier (thin plastic sheet) entirely, and maybe reinstall something similar when done?
Found someone parting-out a 2000 Limited and I inquired if he still has that center bezel piece I busted. Hoping to hear some good news...
theesotericone
New member
I trimmed the inside of my door panels when I went to my first set of 6.5's in the rear. Since then I put in Polk DB651's in and they fit. The Concepts have a bottom mount of 2 3/8", the Polks 2". I'm pretty sure you won't have to trim with the Polks but I can't be certain since my panels where already trimmed.
Put the speakers in, test everything, then put the panels on. If they snap tight your good. If not it takes about 5 minutes with some tin snips to trim the plastic tabs on the inside of the panel around the speaker grill.
TonyB66
New member
Great to hear as I'll be rollin' with the DB651's in the rear also. I got a measured depth of a little less than 2", pretty close to 1 3/4". The adaptor is 1/4" thick, which makes the effective depth about 1 1/2".
Got a roller for the butyl material coming on Sunday. I'll put about 4 1/2 sq-ft on each door, between the outer and inner layers.
Once done, I'll start to see how best to run new speaker wire. A quick search here didn't find all that much....
theesotericone
New member
Are you amping? I forgot. It's easy to run the wires either way. The hardest part is getting them through the door grommets. Basically from deck or amp to A piller for fronts and to B pillar for rears. You'll pull the floor trim on each side and the panel trims. Then wire away.
I left my stock wiring in place just so I could revert that if I ever sell. A wire coat hanger and some masons twine will be really handy for fishing the new wires through the grommet.
TonyB66
New member
A little amp that I feel will suit our needs just fine, the Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack.
All four speaker wires, four segments to/from each speaker to the amp, right? I plan to remove the factory amp and I think this one will fit in that same location, generally...
I have several straightened coat hangers available, just in case I misplace one. I used one last week to run the backup camera wiring... Glad to hear this should work well for the door grommets. The wire is 14 gauge though. I'd rather not hassle with removing the old wires, but if that makes more space...
I believe the 14 gauge speaker wire doesn't directly connect to the amp, but to an included wiring connector that came with the amp. I can look again, but those didn't appear to be 14 gauge. If for example the amp speaker leads are the same gauge as the factory speaker wire, am I'm gaining anything by running 14 gauge only to have them step-down to a smaller gauge?
theesotericone
New member
I'll let you decide. FWIW I ran 16 ga to all my door speakers.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-nFmiWntghQq/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html
TonyB66
New member
While Corbeau came short on the seat brackets/sliders before Christmas, Wet Okole's rear seat cover arrived today.
I will not put that on until done with the speakers, wiring and installation of the new head unit.
Also, the new green NEO3s arrived early and I got those into the auto climate control. Looks great.
Searching for that "wood" surround...
I will not put that on until done with the speakers, wiring and installation of the new head unit.
Also, the new green NEO3s arrived early and I got those into the auto climate control. Looks great.
Searching for that "wood" surround...
TonyB66
New member
With holiday obligations, I probably had a combined 3 hours on the Runner the past few days, so very little done....
I probably spent an hour just cleaning a rear door, getting it prep'd for the butyl sound-deadening material. I still need to remove the factory adhesive that was used to attach the vapor barrier....
I created a template to help in cutting the sound-deadening material. Should work well...
I'll be working on the house almost all day tomorrow, but I might have some time in the morning to work on the Runner. I'd like to have more sun to get the butyl warm, so I'll work on something else. I'll use a heat gun also...
I also got the factory stereo and amp out:
I probably spent an hour just cleaning a rear door, getting it prep'd for the butyl sound-deadening material. I still need to remove the factory adhesive that was used to attach the vapor barrier....
I created a template to help in cutting the sound-deadening material. Should work well...
I'll be working on the house almost all day tomorrow, but I might have some time in the morning to work on the Runner. I'd like to have more sun to get the butyl warm, so I'll work on something else. I'll use a heat gun also...
I also got the factory stereo and amp out:
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infamousRNR
Senior Member
I'm diggin' your build my dude!!
Can't wait to see it in person during the next MOD day!
Can't wait to see it in person during the next MOD day!
BrianSD_42
New member
Hey man looks like things are coming along really well. I think it is awesome that you are so diligent in making posts. I need to step up my game. I'm headed to Alabama Hills in a few weeks so I hope to find some snow in the southern Sierra's.
BTW regarding drone sounds, I've had it and it can suck. Both the expensive full cat back TRD and Borla systems have a small resonance silencer added that eliminates the highway drone. Based on everything I've read so far that is the only way to eliminate it.
I hate the drone sound. It drove me nuts. I complained to my local shop and the guy came up with a solution. He installed a used (scrap) Tundra V8 resonance silencer directly after (towards rear) the muffler. This larger airflow resonance silencer comes with the factory V8 Tundra exhaust system and as far as I've seen cannot be ordered by itself. The mechanic does lots of exhausts and simply cut it off a discarded Tundra exhaust and welded it into my system. I've posted pictures before in a few other threads. I can send you one if needed.
Lastly, South Bay area? Maybe next time I'm up there I can hear it in person. I've always wondered what the Borla sounds like. Eliminate that drone. You won't regret it.
TonyB66
New member
Reluctant as heck to call this a build thread, at least at this point. Thanks much though, and I look forward to meeting you, Tim, and others also. I have some travel after the New Year, out-of-the-country stuff too unfortunately, so hopefully I can make the next one.
We better have snow in the Sierras, especially by late Feb as I rented a cabin there so the little ones can play in the snow. One of the main reasons I got a T4R...
Most vehicles I've had saw an aftermarket muffler or exhaust system, a couple rather extreme. I've experienced my share of droning. Hoping all will be ok here, or at least be tolerable. Fingers-crossed that it will exist at an RPM that I rarely if ever cruise at... I've added a resonator before, which did wonders. With no front seats and much of the dash apart, I have not driven more than 5-10 miles after the Borla install...
Speaking of the seats, I spoke with Corbeau today and I'll be getting both the driver and passenger seat brackets and double-locking sliders on Thursday.
Once I get the sound-deadening done, speakers installed, with speaker wire, then I'll install the new seats. Seeing how long it's taking for one door (butyl material application), the seat install won't happen this last week of 2017...
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TonyB66
New member
The Corbeau seat brackets/sliders arrived. They look to be well-constructed. Really tempted to mount the seats, but I want to finish-up the install of the speakers first…
I can confirm about a 20 pound weight-savings as these brackets with double-locking sliders are about 11 lbs ea. Each Corbeau Moab seat with this base is a little below 40 pounds, compared to stock at 50...
Also arriving yesterday, courtesy of [MENTION=175725]2ndhandyotaman[/MENTION], adaptors to mount 6 ½” speakers in the rear doors. These are ¼” acrylic.
Below is the hazard switch with the button separated. The NEO 3 LED bulb was not lighting it up well. Actually, I initially thought it wasn’t working. The bulb is aimed perpendicular to the button, which does't help and the bulb itself doesn't emit light on the sides all that much. I had some very reflective, mirror-like chrome spray paint from another project. Thanks to [MENTION=84588]redstar[/MENTION], from another thread, the paint made a notable difference.
I have a couple green NEO 3 LED bulbs arriving tomorrow for the rear defrost, ECT and rear window control locations.
That bulb for the cigarette lighter appears to be non-replaceable. I’m planning to do it what I did to the ashtray light. Since I have additional green 74 LED bulbs, I’ll snip-off the light and add this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZGGXF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe this bulb can direct needed light to the cup holder area...
The exterior skin of the rear driver side door is half done. The stuff is going-on very well. It's just time-consuming. I will next create a template for the top portion of that door. I'm, hoping the template will allow me to go faster on the other rear door.
At this point, I'm leaning toward no or very little sound-deadening to the interior panel. My thinking... I can easily add such later, after the sound system is installed, affording me more time elsewhere.
Today is a house day. The previous owner had the bathroom fans vented into the attic. No bueno. So, back into the attic, and onto the roof...
I can confirm about a 20 pound weight-savings as these brackets with double-locking sliders are about 11 lbs ea. Each Corbeau Moab seat with this base is a little below 40 pounds, compared to stock at 50...
Also arriving yesterday, courtesy of [MENTION=175725]2ndhandyotaman[/MENTION], adaptors to mount 6 ½” speakers in the rear doors. These are ¼” acrylic.
Below is the hazard switch with the button separated. The NEO 3 LED bulb was not lighting it up well. Actually, I initially thought it wasn’t working. The bulb is aimed perpendicular to the button, which does't help and the bulb itself doesn't emit light on the sides all that much. I had some very reflective, mirror-like chrome spray paint from another project. Thanks to [MENTION=84588]redstar[/MENTION], from another thread, the paint made a notable difference.
I have a couple green NEO 3 LED bulbs arriving tomorrow for the rear defrost, ECT and rear window control locations.
That bulb for the cigarette lighter appears to be non-replaceable. I’m planning to do it what I did to the ashtray light. Since I have additional green 74 LED bulbs, I’ll snip-off the light and add this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZGGXF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe this bulb can direct needed light to the cup holder area...
The exterior skin of the rear driver side door is half done. The stuff is going-on very well. It's just time-consuming. I will next create a template for the top portion of that door. I'm, hoping the template will allow me to go faster on the other rear door.
At this point, I'm leaning toward no or very little sound-deadening to the interior panel. My thinking... I can easily add such later, after the sound system is installed, affording me more time elsewhere.
Today is a house day. The previous owner had the bathroom fans vented into the attic. No bueno. So, back into the attic, and onto the roof...
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Good for you on the seats and doors!
I'd rather not a roof penetration if possible... I put fantech fans in all my bathrooms over the years - it's a worth while investment
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I'd rather not a roof penetration if possible... I put fantech fans in all my bathrooms over the years - it's a worth while investment
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
TonyB66
New member
I have such an inline system for moving hot air from our fireplace room to another living space. Intake and exhaust vents are in the ceiling...
For a bathroom fan application, I still need to vent that most air externally though. Through the wall is not possible on this house. There are no gables...
I installed three whirly bird attic vents last spring, with very good results over the summer (lower temps in the living spaces).
Best when the shingles are warm to hot to lift them easier. Will have the heat gun up there, which I just used on the butyl material yesterday...
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The problem with venting moist air up is that it cools enroute and the condensation runs back down the vent pipe - side or down draft exits are best. Got eave vents?
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