TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[TonyB66]

Couple things you could do, IMO best option is to get a 3/8”x1/2” barbed reducer. Easiest option though would be to get some electrical tape or other good quality tape and put a few rounds on the hard lines until it’s the correct outside diameter to fit in the hose. I’ve had to do that a few times in my years of plumbing lol.

Thanks.

Exactly what I ordered - 1/2 NPT male to 3/8" barb male. However, since the unit is aluminum, should this piece also be aluminum? I had ordered a set in stainless steel, but just canceled those, thinking I should get aluminum instead...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...wc_img_oth_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1TNMI4LHV0ZX

 

[T4topher]

Thanks.

Exactly what I ordered - 1/2 NPT male to 3/8" barb male. However, since the unit is aluminum, should this piece also be aluminum? I had ordered a set in stainless steel, but just canceled those, thinking I should get aluminum instead...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...wc_img_oth_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1TNMI4LHV0ZX

Perfect that’s exactly what you want. Is the trans cooler aluminum? I’d think brass, stainless or aluminum would all be fine. Brass and aluminum parts are pretty common on coolant systems..

 

[TonyB66]

Perfect that’s exactly what you want. Is the trans cooler aluminum? I’d think brass, stainless or aluminum would all be fine. Brass and aluminum parts are pretty common on coolant systems..

Yes, all aluminum. I'm inclined to get a soft metal to thread into it, like aluminum or even brass. That said, there are many applications on autos where steel is threaded into aluminum, like heads. Not sure the best option here...

I now wondering what's involved in the relocation of the AC line traversing across the condenser...

There would be more possibilities if that were not in the way.

 

[T4topher]

Yes, all aluminum. I'm inclined to get a soft metal to thread into it, like aluminum or even brass. That said, there are many applications on autos where steel is threaded into aluminum, like heads. Not sure the best option here...

I now wondering what's involved in the relocation of the AC line traversing across the condenser...

There would be more possibilities if that were not in the way.

I’d just get brass, could probably find it at Home Depot. Relocating that line I don’t think is worth the hassle, at the minimum you’d have to remove the refrigerant and then recharge when your done..

 

[TonyB66]

I’d just get brass, could probably find it at Home Depot. Relocating that line I don’t think is worth the hassle, at the minimum you’d have to remove the refrigerant and then recharge when your done..

Was thinking the same. It actually looks possible to reshape or contour it a little...

Truth-be-told, I've done AC deletes on other rides, for various reasons. With the wife and kids in this one, no way.

 

[octanejunkie]

Brass is fine, use teflon tape on the threads to get a nice seal and prevent dissimilar metal to metal reaction/corrosion.

Optionally, you could put an inline filter, like the kind used for power steering or oil, that has a frame-mount bracket.

Many of these have dual port locations allowing you to use the port that works best for your application, just like the pic above. You can use one of the unused ports for your aux cooler thermostatic fan probe - if you're still looking at doing that.

 

[TonyB66]

Brass is fine, use teflon tape on the threads to get a nice seal and prevent dissimilar metal to metal reaction/corrosion.

Optionally, you could put an inline filter, like the kind used for power steering or oil, that has a frame-mount bracket.

Many of these have dual port locations allowing you to use the port that works best for your application, just like the pic above. You can use one of the unused ports for your aux cooler thermostatic fan probe - if you're still looking at doing that.

Mike, you remain a wealth of knowledge, thank you. I heard from Amazon that they could not cancel my order, even though it has not shipped. I have SS pieces on the way. I will likely return them or decline delivery, if I'm available to do so... In addition to wanting brass or aluminum, depending upon the orientation of the unit, I might want a 90 or two. According to B&M the ports must be facing upward or to the left, basically the inlet on top.

I was planning to use Permatex high-temp thread sealant.

Was thinking of a Mangenfine filter... Great idea on that bracket. Yes on the fan. Will not get now but believe me, I'm doing my best to position the cooler such that I have sufficient space for a fan later. The cooler and that same fan Matt has requires about 4" of depth. I'm figuring on 4.5" to make sure I'm ok... It seems that I might need to trim the backside of the grille when that time comes, but if I mount the cooler/fan a little lower, more space as gained given how the grille slopes forward.

Thanks again Mike.

 

[phattyduck]

You are overthinking the fittings. They'll be fine. The only real risk is over tightening the fitting and cracking the cooler body. Remember, the inside of your trans is FULL of regular steel parts and aluminum in direct contact with each other.

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

You are overthinking the fittings. They'll be fine. The only real risk is over tightening the fitting and cracking the cooler body. Remember, the inside of your trans is FULL of regular steel parts and aluminum in direct contact with each other.

-Charlie

Thanks Charlie. Another example of dissimilar metals living in harmony. While I feel better about using stainless steel now, with positioning the cooler on the driver side, angled fittings might be the way to go routing-wise. Something I still need to scope-out... I can't tell how Matt oriented his cooler and ran his lines. It appears that his ports might be facing downward, but I can't tell.

 

[phattyduck]

Thanks Charlie. Another example of dissimilar metals living in harmony. While I feel better about using stainless steel now, with positioning the cooler on the driver side, angled fittings might be the way to go routing-wise. Something I still need to scope-out... I can't tell how Matt oriented his cooler and ran his lines. It appears that his ports might be facing downward, but I can't tell.

The dissimilar metal issue can be a problem in two ways:

- Electrolysis. Requires and electrolyte! Water is often ionic (in some small amount, especially when moving) which can cause corrosion between dissimilar metals. This shouldn't be an issue with good (clean) transmission fluid.

- Galling. This is often an issue when installing aluminum and steel (and especially stainless steel). You will have thread sealant or teflon tape in there, so that also won't be an issue. Always use something in the threads of a aluminum to stainless threaded joint to avoid galling unless you are only going hand tight. Once again though, not an issue for this case.

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

The dissimilar metal issue can be a problem in two ways:

- Electrolysis. Requires and electrolyte! Water is often ionic (in some small amount, especially when moving) which can cause corrosion between dissimilar metals. This shouldn't be an issue with good (clean) transmission fluid.

- Galling. This is often an issue when installing aluminum and steel (and especially stainless steel). You will have thread sealant or teflon tape in there, so that also won't be an issue. Always use something in the threads of a aluminum to stainless threaded joint to avoid galling unless you are only going hand tight. Once again though, not an issue for this case.

-Charlie

Charlie, thanks again. It's one thing to be knowledgeable and yet another to care enough to share. You have a habit of such here. Heck, Mike too...

To your earlier point on over tightening and causing damage to the cooler, I was happy to see this process covered in the instructions - using a 2nd backstop wrench to ensure the torque is not imparted to the body of the unit.

Efficient routing of the lines, the fewest connections, minimizing sharp turns will be an emphasis....

 

[octanejunkie]

Charlie, thanks again. It's one thing to be knowledgeable and yet another to care enough to share. You have a habit of such here. Heck, Mike too...

To your earlier point on over tightening and causing damage to the cooler, I was happy to see this process covered in the instructions - using a 2nd backstop wrench to ensure the torque is not imparted to the body of the unit.

Efficient routing of the lines, the fewest connections, minimizing sharp turns will be an emphasis....

Always use two wrenches when you can, especially when working with soft metals. The reason I use teflon tape on fittings like this is three-fold:
-ensures a leak free install
-"lubricates" the threads and prevents the need for high torque to create the seal
-makes disassembly easier (vs. sealant)

Charlie's a good egg fur sure

 

[TonyB66]

Always use two wrenches when you can, especially when working with soft metals. The reason I use teflon tape on fittings like this is three-fold:
-ensures a leak free install
-"lubricates" the threads and prevents the need for high torque to create the seal
-makes disassembly easier (vs. sealant)

Charlie's a good egg fur sure

I'm on the brink of going with teflon tape. I've seen the stuff fray into oil pans though, but in this application, I see that as less of a concern.

Hey, any novel ideas to spray primer/paint into tight spaces such as this swing out arm?

Found some neat ideas on YouTube, but figured I'd ask the braintrust too...

 

[TonyB66]

Not much to update. The weather should be low to mid 60's tomorrow. If so, I should be able to prime and paint both bumpers. I have not yet prep'd the swingout, so that will be later...

Nearly a couple hours of rubbing alcohol (91%) and half a roll of paper towels, I got both bumpers pretty clean.

Tomorrow I'll hit these with some acetone that should work in this sprayer.

Had a couple deliveries...

According to Eastwood, it takes three cans to do a frame. I intended to order four, but with various discounts it wasn't much more to order 7 cans. Total price shipped was just 84 bucks, so about $12 a can.

Anyone local want 3 cans? Not looking to make any money, so 36 bucks. The price is now back to $22 a can before shipping...

Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray

 

[TonyB66]

Had and continue to have a family health situation, so no priming and painting yesterday. Not sure when that will happen now...

Did have a few minutes to play around with tranny cooler fitment possibilities.

There is less space on the driver side.

The passenger side looks to be the way to go, with this unit at least. That 7" fan, which is closer to 8" overall, would seemingly fit well.

In that photo, I have the cooler flipped such that the mounting plate holes are forward, not up against the condenser. Not sure what way will prove to be better at the moment. I will need at least 1 90 3/8" barb fitting, maybe both... Oh, the AC line is pretty bendable.

 

[Road Bull]

Had and continue to have a family health situation, so no priming and painting yesterday. Not sure when that will happen now...

Did have a few minutes to play around with tranny cooler fitment possibilities.

There is less space on the driver side.

The passenger side looks to be the way to go, with this unit at least. That 7" fan, which is closer to 8" overall, would seemingly fit well.

In that photo, I have the cooler flipped such that the mounting plate holes are forward, not up against the condenser. Not sure what way will prove to be better at the moment. I will need at least 1 90 3/8" barb fitting, maybe both... Oh, the AC line is pretty bendable.

I am running a different size, but the concept is the same. I think you are on the right track with the mounting plate holes forward, and mounted on the passenger side. This is what I ended up with. The concept should be the same. I didn't want to run the zip tie mounts so it just came down to finding good mounting positions with the hardware.

Dig the build so far man. I am looking forward to seeing those bumpers mounted.

 

[TonyB66]

RB, thanks for the encouragement and photos. I will indeed mount it on the passenger side, pretty much in the same location I showed, and where you positioned yours. Looks like the hard AC line that crosses our condensers is somewhat different on the various years.

This cooler is not a kit, so no added supplies in mine. I think I have sufficient scrap metal stock and various pieces to figure something out... Maybe next week I'll have some time to get on it again.

Today the weather was sufficiently warm and dry to get some bumper work done. Front and rear ready to get doused in acetone. I used almost a gallon...

The acetone dried or evaporated very quickly and I used about 3 cans of self etching primer.

Instead of a light sanding, I've found the gloves above to work very well, then a leaf blower. I'll get to that and paint in about a week, after some rains...

 

[TonyB66]

Got into the low 70s today, so a good time for the first coat of paint.

I'll get the second/final coat on next week once it warms-up again...

Think I have everything for the tranny cooler install...

I think I'll go with the fittings like this.

Maybe tomorrow I'll have time...

 

[T4topher]

Got into the low 70s today, so a good time for the first coat of paint.

I'll get the second/final coat on next week once it warms-up again...

Think I have everything for the tranny cooler install...

I think I'll go with the fittings like this.

Maybe tomorrow I'll have time...

Out of curiousity where did you buy your magnefine filter?

 

[TonyB66]

Out of curiousity where did you buy your magnefine filter?

Minus the stainless hose clamps from THD, everything from Amazon. Sorry, the cooler was on special on the Flowmaster website...

Heck, even the hose, which I was expecting to get locally, ten feet or so, none of the local places had hose specifically for transmission fluid, not enough, at another the brand they had would have cost over 40 bucks for 10 feet! It was cheaper to get 25 feet from Amazon, so I did that...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XONNTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the filter. Glad they went metal.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787KWZPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got very close to going spin-on, but decided against it. I'm typically an overkill kind of guy too, but that just seem way much, plus finding a good, easily accessible location... The main value add for me was the added port option that Mike mentioned earlier for a future control. If I decide to get a fan, and I think I will, Matt's simple on/off switch is likely what I'd do when it tough spots...