TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[TonyB66]

You already used pieces of hose for abrasion protection so this is just a suggestion for others who may be doing this. PVC pipe sections may work as well, you can heat it up and bend it to whatever shape you need. I'm wondering if any sharp edges may eventually eat through the soft protective hose and abrade the real hose?

I'll be moving on to this mod fairly soon so thanks a lot for this write-up, it is really helpful. I got the smaller cooler 20764, before I saw this thread.

Glad this is of some help. Interesting idea on the PVC. I can see how that would be beneficial. I also agree with Charle earlier that one should secure the lines tightly or allow them sufficient space. Only one sharp edge as I recall, and the angle of it makes it of minimal concern, IMO. I still put a piece of hose over that area which not only protects that send line, it really snugged it up in that spot (tight fit). I don't see any meaningful movement possible there now.

Before we know it, winter will be done, so get the cooler installed!

You did such a good job of writing this up, why not create a separate thread showing others how to do it. We could always use more references in the tutorial and documentation thread.

Thanks Brian. Not adverse to that at all. While I have no regrets getting this cooler, and it seems to be the biggest BTU-wise that fits in the open space (not behind any structure/s, leak-free fittings I don't have, yet at least.

Also, and I failed to mention this earlier, on the inlet I have a 90. Well, I got a pair of them and the first one, when snugged-up, the orientation was not where I needed it. Not a good feeling. Certainly don't want to back it off or go too tight and break something. There is about a 5-10 degree window for proper hose routing through the top. Thankfully the other 90 worked-out better, but I can see how this can be hit or miss for others... I could have turned the 90 downward of course and would have done so if the 2nd fitting didn't cooperate with a top hose routing. With a smaller cooler and more available space, there should be no concern though.

Also, brass fittings, from the various specs I saw, might not be a good choice. I saw some with a max temp rating of 180F, others around 200. If accurate, those would not be good options...

 

[TonyB66]

Tony I'm curious if you noticed any increase in engine temperature now that there is a trans cooler out in front?

Ash, coolant temps, on that short drive were where I usually saw them. No grade around town, 188 seems to be the happy spot still. With some grade, low to mid 190s...

An important note to keep-in-mind is that I'm currently running with no bumpers and grille, and front skid plate. So, it will be much heavier later, with less air flow.

Stacking heat exchangers does have a negative effect of course, in this case for the radiator, which is last in line. The air now going through a portion of it (top left corner) is warmer than what it would be otherwise. So, the t-stat will likely be open a little longer now, so I imagine no adverse impact on coolant temps.

That said, a 170 t-stat crossed my mind some time ago. I replaced the t-stat and radiator last year with new factory ones though. A larger all metal radiator will likely be on the list in a few more years....

 

[Mark_BC]

I wonder if you could use unions in the line to allow for the angle you get when you tighten the elbow into the cooler. This kind of thing

https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Met...d=1548361032&sr=8-7&keywords=3/8"+brass+union

 

[TonyB66]

I wonder if you could use unions in the line to allow for the angle you get when you tighten the elbow into the cooler. This kind of thing

https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Met...d=1548361032&sr=8-7&keywords=3/8"+brass+union

Good thinking Mark.

With this cooler, the ports are 1/2" NPT, female. So, one needs 1/2" NPT, male.

Such a union will allow for desired flexibility, at the expense of real estate though. (will extend further to the passenger side). More connections and adaptors, creates more opportunity for failure or issues... It would likely work though, if it fits.

If I knew JB Welding the threads would do the trick, I'd do that!

 

[TonyB66]

Searching on unions and swivel finds a lot of interesting results. Not the right ends, but makes me wonder if something is out there...

https://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-13848-Airline-Fitting-Approved/dp/B06Y5VLV7V

Desired: 1/2 NPT male, to 90 degere (elbow) union/swivel, to 3/8" hose barb.

Does such exist?

Hmmm...

Parker 33982-8-8 Female Short Drop Swivel Elbow 1/2 JIC X 1/2 Hose Steel Buy from Cross

 

[T4topher]

Good thinking Mark.

With this cooler, the ports are 1/2" NPT, female. So, one needs 1/2" NPT, male.

Such a union will allow for desired flexibility, at the expense of real estate though. (will extend further to the passenger side). More connections and adaptors, creates more opportunity for failure or issues... It would likely work though, if it fits.

If I knew JB Welding the threads would do the trick, I'd do that!

As a plumber when I do threaded connections i use pipe dope (thread sealant) and Teflon. Usually put the Teflon on first then put the sealant on top. Once it’s threaded in all the way I’ll wipe away the excess.. Another option which I’m sure would work but not the right purpose is some Toyota black fipg. That stuff is great for sealing stuff lol..

Edit: not specifically recommending teflon just saying to get a leak free joint 99% of the time we use both.

 

[phattyduck]

I used Permatex high temp thread sealant, which seems to be working well. What one or others might you recommend?
Sound like you're saying that the fitting shown will not resolve itself...

Not crazy about removing the cooler, but sounds I'll need to in order to better ensure leak-proof connections.

I just use the Permatex stuff. There is a Toyota part number for thread sealant, I just don't know what it is. There are a few places its called out (flywheel bolts on a 3s-gte and oil pressure switches, for example).

I did just remember that you also generally want to avoid teflon tape in vehicles due to the risk of pieces coming off and clogging small orifices. This is more of an issue on engine oil, but there could be a similar issue with a transmission...

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

As a plumber when I do threaded connections i use pipe dope (thread sealant) and Teflon. Usually put the Teflon on first then put the sealant on top. Once it’s threaded in all the way I’ll wipe away the excess.. Another option which I’m sure would work but not the right purpose is some Toyota black fipg. That stuff is great for sealing stuff lol..

Edit: not specifically recommending teflon just saying to get a leak free joint 99% of the time we use both.

Understood. I was going to use the Permatex sealant on both fittings, but after some discussion here, I gave the tape a shot. Maybe I should get that Toyota stuff. The part number looks to be 0029501281. Seems to be RTV-like....

Toyota Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-01281-Formed-Transmission/dp/B000EDBR8C

I just use the Permatex stuff. There is a Toyota part number for thread sealant, I just don't know what it is. There are a few places its called out (flywheel bolts on a 3s-gte and oil pressure switches, for example).

I did just remember that you also generally want to avoid teflon tape in vehicles due to the risk of pieces coming off and clogging small orifices. This is more of an issue on engine oil, but there could be a similar issue with a transmission...

-Charlie

Yup, you remember correctly. I've seen the stuff fray and in the bottom of oil pans.

Ok, I'll take it out and either use the Permatex on both, or get that Toyota stuff...

 

[T4topher]

Understood. I was going to use the Permatex sealant on both fittings, but after some discussion here, I gave the tape a shot. Maybe I should get that Toyota stuff. The part number looks to be 0029501281. Seems to be RTV-like....

Toyota Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-01281-Formed-Transmission/dp/B000EDBR8C



Yup, you remember correctly. I've seen the stuff fray and in the bottom of oil pans.

Ok, I'll take it out and either use the Permatex on both, or get that Toyota stuff...

You tried Teflon and it’s still leaking? Yep that’s the stuff, I use the cheaper (probably not as good) Toyota cam shaft fipg.. on my Tacoma I had a trans drain plug that stripped when I threaded it back in, couldn’t get it out or tightened. Just kept spinning.. slapped some of that stuff all over the drain plug no leaks for 2+ years (sold it lol), off-roading and everything. Would probably work great on threads.

 

[TonyB66]

You tried Teflon and it’s still leaking? Yep that’s the stuff, I use the cheaper (probably not as good) Toyota cam shaft fipg.. on my Tacoma I had a trans drain plug that stripped when I threaded it back in, couldn’t get it out or tightened. Just kept spinning.. slapped some of that stuff all over the drain plug no leaks for 2+ years (sold it lol), off-roading and everything. Would probably work great on threads.

I used Teflon tape on the bottom/outlet fitting, and Permatex High Temp on top/inlet. A couple or so pages back, with the discussion at that time (desirable sealant choices), I decided to "experiment" with the two...

Maybe I can find that Toyota stuff locally, and for a good price. I'd like to button this up by this weekend. Thought I was done yesterday....

 

[T4topher]

I used Teflon tape on the bottom/outlet fitting, and Permatex High Temp on top/inlet. A couple or so pages back, with the discussion at that time (desirable sealant choices), I decided to "experiment" with the two...

Maybe I can find that Toyota stuff locally, and for a good price. I'd like to button this up by this weekend. Thought I was done yesterday....

I would give you some if you want to make the drive! Haha.. I’d bet they have it at any local Toyota dealership, I think it’s a pretty commonly used item..

 

[phattyduck]

I used Teflon tape on the bottom/outlet fitting, and Permatex High Temp on top/inlet. A couple or so pages back, with the discussion at that time (desirable sealant choices), I decided to "experiment" with the two...

Maybe I can find that Toyota stuff locally, and for a good price. I'd like to button this up by this weekend. Thought I was done yesterday....

I'd avoid the FIPG for threads. The Permatex stuff should work just fine.

I have some 5+ year old NPT joints on my oil system (higher pressure than the trans cooler lines) using that stuff that are still leak free.

Looks like both red and blue thread locker also work as sealants due to their anaerobic curing. It turned into a google rabbit hole. Here is a cross reference that I found along the way:

Toyota Adhesive & Sealant Cross Reference Chart - YotaTech Forums

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

I would give you some if you want to make the drive! Haha.. I’d bet they have it at any local Toyota dealership, I think it’s a pretty commonly used item..

Thanks man. Ya, over an hour drive each way... Just spoke with Gilroy Toyota and they have it in stock, at 32 bucks. Damn. No price matching...

I'll likely use the Permatex and call it good. Once the bumper is on, winch installed, removal of he cooler would at best be more difficult. I don't believe it would be possible without one or both of those coming-off. Not sure... All the more reason to get this right now.

For my own personal record, I just re-torqued the tranny drain bolt (15 ft-lbs). I didn't have a new washer or gasket (35178-30010), and instead of using the compressed one yesterday, I used a new oil pan one (90430-12031) instead. All looks good there.

 

[TonyB66]

I'd avoid the FIPG for threads. The Permatex stuff should work just fine.

I have some 5+ year old NPT joints on my oil system (higher pressure than the trans cooler lines) using that stuff that are still leak free.

Looks like both red and blue thread locker also work as sealants due to their anaerobic curing. It turned into a google rabbit hole. Here is a cross reference that I found along the way:

Toyota Adhesive & Sealant Cross Reference Chart - YotaTech Forums

-Charlie

Wow, sweet cross reference Charlie. Have it memorialized here too for future reference. Ok, Permatex it is. I actually didn't knead the tube when I used it for the inlet fitting, but it seems to be holding-up well. I'll make sure to follow the instructions when I used it again, likely tomorrow...

I'm going for a drive tonight, same ambient temperature, check for leaks again, and also temps going-up the same grade, with OD off this time.

 

[TonyB66]

Went for that drive, and the outside temp was darn near the same. TFTs were were a bit cooler on the trip to THD, I think because I didn't let it idle for 20 minutes first, but a few though. Also, I think the extra fluid I added made for some difference too. I saw up to 130 or so on the way back, before the hill...

I turned OD off, and it was noteworthy alright.

So, about a 15 degree delta.

A few pages back I asked about a way to spray primer and paint into the tire carrier arm. I think I will use something like this... Pretty poor spray pattern, but it should cover and protect the bare metal...

Oh, I almost forgot... I'm not so sure I'll need to remove the cooler and that outlet fitting. Zero wetness and no ATF smell. It seems that all might be ok. I'll monitor for a while, but unless anyone thinks the Teflon tape will indeed fail, I might just leave it as is...

 

[phattyduck]

Oh, I almost forgot... I'm not so sure I'll need to remove the cooler and that outlet fitting. Zero wetness and no ATF smell. It seems that all might be ok. I'll monitor for a while, but unless anyone thinks the Teflon tape will indeed fail, I might just leave it as is...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it - but I have a suspicion that it is is probably weeping just a tiny bit.

The fix, if needed, is the sealant instead of tape.

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it - but I have a suspicion that it is is probably weeping just a tiny bit.

The fix, if needed, is the sealant instead of tape.

-Charlie

You sound like my pop Charlie. Sleeping dogs too, lol. That said...

After much reading last night, articles and forums with guys who do this type of stuff for a living, I've decided to remove that fitting and use an actual sealant instead (the same Permatex). Teflon tape is designed to be a lubricant and "stops" leaks by virtue of allowing one to tighten the fitting further. A good thing of course, but it's not a sealant in the truest of definitions. Also, there is some expressed concern about it holds-up to oils long-term...

So, off she comes. Thanks for the helpful feedback.

 

[phattyduck]

You sound like my pop Charlie. Sleeping dogs too, lol. That said...

I keep those saved for when the kids get older... :lol:

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

Took longer than I wanted because I decided to remove both fittings, and then after spending much time to secure the 90 degree one, playing with both to see which one I could get in the right orientation and the tightest, I then realized that I put it on the wrong port! Damn. So frustrating...

Only took about 15 minutes to remove the cooler though. Nothing dribbled out of the hoses, or even the cooler, until I turned it upside down. Lost maybe 1/2 a cup. Sharpies work great to plug the 3/8" hoses.

Took measurements of each before taking them off.

When removing the fitting with Teflon tape, I held it upside down to better avoid any pieces of tape falling into the cooler. I put a couple cups of acetone through it anyways though.

Got the ports nice an clean...

Then it was time to reinstall the fittings. With some patience, I was able to get them in further, as compared to the before.

I was about to reinstall everything, but decided to wait until tomorrow. I have those stainless steel zip ties arriving and it will be easier to replace the plastic ones with those with the cooler not connected...

Checked the coolant in the overflow reservoir, and it was a little below the full line. Has been that way since I installed the new radiator and did a flush. Nice.

Will check the transmission fluid level again when all done. Getting it "hot" is a bit of a challenge now! Correct that the 4Runner needs to be idling when checking the hot level?

Edit/Add: Technical Data Sheet for the Permatex High Temp Sealant. Recommends at least 24 hours to cure.

http://www.worldpac.com/sdmedia/pdfs/permatex/59235.pdf

Have it by the fireplace now, and will give it a couple days...

 

[TonyB66]

The metal zip ties did arrive yesterday.

I made the time to remove the plastic ones and used these instead. I don't find these as easy to snug-up, but doable. I found vice grips helpful. Also, snipping them off was not easy with dykes, and can leave a sharp point. I used needle nose pliers to bend or fold those back.

Also yesterday, with the temps around 70, I got back to the bumpers. After dowsing the spare tire carrier in acetone, self etching primer followed.

After 24 hours and a light "sanding", the same flat black.

I also hauled-out both bumpers for a final coat before install...

While drying, I got back to the cooler. The fittings (Permatex sealant) had cured just over 48 hours. Before installing, hopefully for the last time, I vacuumed the condenser and straightened some if its fins with a small screwdriver. Installed, just after painting the bolt heads.

I let it idle for a long time as I cleaned-up, put away tools, put the bumpers back in the garage, and zero leaks. Took it out for a drive, and I remain impressed with the temps thus far, albeit in non-taxing situations. This time I turned OD off well in advance of hitting the uphill grade and it was 138F for like 80% the way up. I saw 150 or so for a high. At 65 degrees, ambient temps were warmer than the previous two runs. Once back home, i inspected for leaks, and all is good. With the ATF "hot", on level ground, while still idling, the ATF level was about a 1/3 the way between low and high. Since it was not all that hot, I added about a cup and called it good...

So, the tranny cooler is officially done.

I'll do a final paint coat on the spare tire carrier tomorrow. The installation of the bumpers is likely next...