TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

You just want to circulate and heat up the fluids so they drain faster and more completely.

Also make sure the fill plugs open before you crack the drain plugs.

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Will drive to Napa to get a new hand pump. Should be close to 30 minutes roundtrip... Indeed, fill holes always first before draining. Shot some Aero Kroil on those a couple days ago, so hopefully no issues there...
 
Anything different needed to properly drain the rear diff, with the factory locker? I ask because there is supposed to be 3.1 to 3.2 quarts in there. I got something like a little over 2...
 
Anything different needed to properly drain the rear diff, with the factory locker? I ask because there is supposed to be 3.1 to 3.2 quarts in there. I got something like a little over 2...
Drive it around a wee bit and recheck the level on level ground.

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To follow-up, my rear diff was quite low on fluid, about 1 quart. I was able to get a little over 3 quarts in...

It was a pretty cold morning, at least by CA standards for November. I got the gear oil warm by putting the bottles in front of a toasty fireplace. This allowed it to pump quite easily.

Will drive a bit more tomorrow, then check to see if each will take more fluid. For the front diff, I'll be on a slide incline to add a tad bit more fluid. For the transfer case and rear diff, I'll back-up on that same slight incline, and do the same...
 
Don't over fill your rear diff, this puts too much fluid at the axle bearings and seals and can inspire a leak. The manual states the fluid level should be about 5mm shy of the drain hole, IIRC.

As far as the front diff, I'd not over fill it either, but I don't have a front diff on my truck, yet, so I can't speak from any specific experience.

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Mike, solid advice, which I will take. Thanks.

A Home Depot run for the house, and I come home with stuff for the Runner:

tonyb66-albums-maintenance-related-picture48863-img-4301.jpg


And since I was able to get undiluted Toyota factory red from a local dealership, I will proceed with the radiator and t-stat install soon. This was less than 2 bucks at THD (has the quart measurements, in case not visible):

tonyb66-albums-maintenance-related-picture48864-img-4285.jpg
 
Putting that bucket on my list, pardon the pun :surfer:

Nice.

Really want to work on the Runner, but my pop is coming-over, and up in the attic I go again...

Mike, might you have any recommendations on electrical upgrades in general, the cabling in particular? Starting to bookmark such threads...
 
Nice.

Really want to work on the Runner, but my pop is coming-over, and up in the attic I go again...

Mike, might you have any recommendations on electrical upgrades in general, the cabling in particular? Starting to bookmark such threads...

My recommendation is to hire an electrician and go work on your 4runner :fro:

But without knowing what you are dealing with it's hard to answer those kinds of questions. I always like to map out the circuits and add subpanels where it makes sense to make isolating and troubleshooting easier.

My last house was built in 1941 and the circuit calculations were all wrong for today's needs, yet the city upgraded the meter and service drop to 200A, original was 40A. I split a lot of shared circuits (like overhead lights from wall receptacles, etc) and added separate circuits for major appliances with higher draws. I also added a grounding rod and put all of my exterior lights on a photocell facing north so I never had to turn on porch lights, etc by hand.

Additionally I added attic ventilation on a thermostatic relay, as well as attic lighting, and upgraded all of my bathroom exhaust fans, and the dryer vent line, to Fantech fans for silent operation. Dryer vent lines clogged with lint are a major fire hazard.

Or did you mean electrical on your 4runner? :der:
 
My recommendation is to hire an electrician and go work on your 4runner :fro:

But without knowing what you are dealing with it's hard to answer those kinds of questions. I always like to map out the circuits and add subpanels where it makes sense to make isolating and troubleshooting easier.

My last house was built in 1941 and the circuit calculations were all wrong for today's needs, yet the city upgraded the meter and service drop to 200A, original was 40A. I split a lot of shared circuits (like overhead lights from wall receptacles, etc) and added separate circuits for major appliances with higher draws. I also added a grounding rod and put all of my exterior lights on a photocell facing north so I never had to turn on porch lights, etc by hand.

Additionally I added attic ventilation on a thermostatic relay, as well as attic lighting, and upgraded all of my bathroom exhaust fans, and the dryer vent line, to Fantech fans for silent operation. Dryer vent lines clogged with lint are a major fire hazard.

Or did you mean electrical on your 4runner? :der:

As always Mike, helpful and funny as well!

Fishing through insulation in the attic for Romex cables, opening walls... Found some 220s that I'm splitting. Finally have it all mapped-out! Doing math to compute what size breakers needed now, and in the future, like girls using a hair dryers at the same time. Installing a subpanel on that side of the house when I get back home. Actually at the dentist for the older one now. Braces at age eight, crazy...

My vacation time, working on the house, as usual. Before this house, it was fixing-up the old one for sale. A real vacation, maybe next year.

Will put the new battery in later today. At least it will feel like I did something on the Runner...
 
As always Mike, helpful and funny as well!

Fishing through insulation in the attic for Romex cables, opening walls... Found some 220s that I'm splitting. Finally have it all mapped-out! Doing math to compute what size breakers needed now, and in the future, like girls using a hair dryers at the same time. Installing a subpanel on that side of the house when I get back home. Actually at the dentist for the older one now. Braces at age eight, crazy...

My vacation time, working on the house, as usual. Before this house, it was fixing-up the old one for sale. A real vacation, maybe next year.

Will put the new battery in later today. At least it will feel like I did something on the Runner...

I feel ya, my snaggle-toothed 11 yo was told to get braces at around 8 too - common sense and my wallet prevailed. You're a better man than I.

I took a vacation once. I believe it was Hawaii

Don't leave your battery on the earth for long, they tend to drain out :zoom:
 
I feel ya, my snaggle-toothed 11 yo was told to get braces at around 8 too - common sense and my wallet prevailed. You're a better man than I.

I took a vacation once. I believe it was Hawaii

Don't leave your battery on the earth for long, they tend to drain out :zoom:

She actually got them at 7 years of age. Braces on "baby" teeth seems rather asinine, but I get the logic, and I checked with my cousin who teaches dentistry... Apparently her little sister is next.

Battery in the Runner, so not on the ground more than a few hours. Speaking of which, the top bracket that secures it seems is larger than the battery. In the front, right behind the cool overflow reservoir, there is about a 1/4" space or gap...

tonyb66-albums-maintenance-related-picture48868-img-4303.jpg


I installed the battery in the dark, so I'll look in the daylight tomorrow...
 
After about 20 miles I checked fluid levels in the diffs and transfer case and I was able to get about .3 more quarts total in all three. Each took a few pumps of gear oil... So, about 5.5 quarters in total, leaving me with 1.5 quarts for future use. Torqued everything back down and double-checked the drain plugs too.

After the radiator and t-stat install (coolant), I'll be done with fluids for a while. I'll look into PS and brake fluid later...

I got a couple non-maintenance items too:

41-LFvBdnrL.jpg


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00042K694/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
...the top bracket that secures it seems is larger than the battery. In the front, right behind the cool overflow reservoir, there is about a 1/4" space or gap...

The bracket is made for group 24 batteries, IRC, I made a filler wedge for my optoma yellow top so the clamp is taught enough to secure the battery.

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After about 20 miles I checked fluid levels in the diffs and transfer case and I was able to get about .3 more quarts total in all three. Each took a few pumps of gear oil... So, about 5.5 quarters in total, leaving me with 1.5 quarts for future use. Torqued everything back down and double-checked the drain plugs too.

Check against the manual, that seems like too much fluid, at least in the rear diff, AFAIK

Always let the fluid settle after driving as it will be all over the internals. I wait for about 30 mins before checking the rear diff, I don't have a front diff or transfer case, tho.

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Check against the manual, that seems like too much fluid, at least in the rear diff, AFAIK

Always let the fluid settle after driving as it will be all over the internals. I wait for about 30 mins before checking the rear diff, I don't have a front diff or transfer case, tho.

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Thanks Mike.

Actually, it seems that I might not have put enough. From a thread on a different forum...

Note: All oil quantities are found in the owners manual.
Front Differential-approx. 1.5 quarts
Transfer Case-approx. 1.5 quarts
Rear Differential-approx. 3.2 quarts


I'd link to the thread, but probably not something appreciated here (linking to another 4Runner forum).

The battery I got is a 24FX, so I would think it would fit better in the bracket. I'll likely insert something to take-up that space...

Happy Thanksgiving to you Mike, everyone!
 
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I misread and understood differently, the 5 quarts total was misleading. Also I'm not good at math.

Happy Thanksgiving, Tony and team

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Not much time on the 4Runner this past week...

I just replaced the fuel filter though. Pretty straight-forward. Definitely clean-up the flares of debris before installing the new one. There have been accounts of leaking fuel filters, OEM and aftermarket; and that might be the culprit.

Also, snug it tight. After the initial engine start, it leaked a little. These like to be cranked-down (others stated the same).

I won't put back that plastic protective cover until after inspecting it again in a day or two...

tonyb66-albums-maintenance-related-picture48919-img-4308.jpg


I will do the glove box light (LED) in a few minutes, assuming I can get that little guy out. I'll probably just put tape on some needle nose pliers to safely pull it out... Also, I'll replace the front wiper blade inserts in a bit. Of course it's raining...
 
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