TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[TonyB66]

On that glove box bulb, I decided it best to simply remove a few screws to get better access to the bulb. Much easier to pop-out the bulb housing from above:

From no light, to quite a bit...

Geez, more rust here than on the underside?!

 

[octanejunkie]

On that glove box bulb, I decided it best to simply remove a few screws to get better access to the bulb. Much easier to pop-out the bulb housing from above

2 screws to remove the glove box and my world was a better place when it came to swapping that bulb out.

Which bulb did you go with?

This is one of those circuits I am considering upgrading to constant hot vs. switched hot, along with one of my aux charger ports.

 

[TonyB66]

2 screws to remove the glove box and my world was a better place when it came to swapping that bulb out.

Which bulb did you go with?

This is one of those circuits I am considering upgrading to constant hot vs. switched hot, along with one of my aux charger ports.

Sounds like I might have removed more screws than necessary. The top piece of the glove box is separate from the walls and door. The top piece being out is useful here...

The rust bothers me though, so I will take it back off and use some steel wool, possibly followed with a light coat of spray paint.

As far as the bulb goes, after checking my Amazon orders, it looks to be one in this 20-pack:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LUL2WK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe there are other places that use this same bulb, that I will eventually address, thus the quantity...

Exterior-wise, all factory lighting is LED - minus the headlights and fogs. At 200+ bucks, I won't be doing LED headlamps anytime soon. I don't want to tackle projector lighting at this time, or possibly at all (not sure)... So, I have halogen replacements arriving tomorrow. At 24 bucks for new bulbs, and hopefully improved lighting, seems like a no-brainer before our first family trip:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJWUPC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As usual, I'll keep the ones I remove onboard, should there be bulb failure on the road...

Mike, you also have one of the "old" style CA license plates, I believe. What are you doing for a frame? Figured I'd start looking as I expect my plates after the New Year. This one looks pretty neat:

https://www.amazon.com/Carshow-Auto...11794616&sr=1-26&keywords=license+plate+frame

Back to the fuel filter replacement, before I forget, I highly recommend a line or flare wrench, 14 mm. Better yet, one that is hinged, like these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BHXRM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A standard 19 mm to hold the filter stationery is also needed. Something like a crescent wrench might be too thick...

Of note, this 17 dollar light was awesome while working under the Runner! Very compact and super bright. I used it primarily when working on the house, but it really helped when doing the fuel filter:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFU8C7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at racks... So many threads. I want a low mount for sure, not on the factory cross members. I don't believe I need or want full length, so up to the sun/moon roof is what I'm leaning toward. I'm thinking of weight. I realize aluminum is an option though, like the Rocky Mountain rack, as seen in this post:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/61791-best-roof-rack-7.html#post2798418

Not so sure I want "feet" sitting atop the Runner for support purposes...

At moment, I'm leaning toward the Baja flat utility or regular Baja utility basket. If anyone knows of other flat rack options, please share. I find that appealing, possibly over a basket type...

 

[octanejunkie]

Good info on the install and links to tools, yes, flare wrenches are invaluable - I even have a set of crow's feet flares that come in handy :thumb:

Mike, you also have one of the "old" style CA license plates, I believe. What are you doing for a frame? Figured I'd start looking as I expect my plates after the New Year. This one looks pretty neat:

https://www.amazon.com/Carshow-Auto...11794616&sr=1-26&keywords=license+plate+frame

To be honest I've not considered plate frames at all... remind me why I need that? Lol

 

[TonyB66]

To be honest I've not considered plate frames at all... remind me why I need that? Lol

Actually, I don't know the last time I purchased a license plate frame. Certainly not on my other project car that I'm lightening for track days! Black bolt or screw heads, then done...

 

[TonyB66]

Per another thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247273-double-din-input-sought.html), I'll be updating the sound system with a Pioneer AVH-4100NEX. It was on sale for 400 bucks, so I pulled the trigger, and purchased related items. I'll update this thread when that install commences.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-84sl2Tx7fDL/p_1304100NEX/Pioneer-AVH-4100NEX.html

I just put-in new headlight bulbs (Philips X-treme Vision +130%). For $24, I'm somewhat surprised at the improvement over what I removed.

Working on some theft prevention stuff, otherwise pretty quiet until I schedule time for the radiator and t-stat install, as well as the aforementioned sound system...

 

[octanejunkie]

You need to anti theft that house from stealing your 4runner project time

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

It has been a while since I last posted.

I finally found some time for the radiator and t-stat replacement. What should have been a couple or so hour job became much longer due to a nut that would not come-off the t-stat housing. It then rounded, which I saw coming. I’ll spare you all the details, but it was captured in this thread, if interested:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247710-common-t-stat-replacement.html

Along with this refresh, new upper and lower hoses, radiator cap, t-stat gasket and course coolant (Toyota red). I did some cleaning too, like the fan, fan shroud, overflow reservoir and plenty of degreasing. While burping the system of air, the coolant temps were much lower than before. The previous t-stat’s jiggle valve was oriented to the top, and this new one was placed at the bottom, per the FSM. About a 12-degree difference.

From the old radiator, I salvaged the petcock and cap. Not sure if they’ll come-in handy, but seems like a smart thing to do.

I want to thank Tim (@mtbtim) who was quite responsive and helpful over PM. Mike (@octanejunkie), you too, have been so supportive while I ramp-up my knowledge on the 3rd gen.

I've done some other minor stuff too, but not much...

I removed the five cross members on the factory roof rack, leaving just the rails. I will choose a low-profile rack that mounts to the rails. The weight of those cross members and corresponding pieces is about 5 pounds. I will deduct that from the weight of the new rack adds so I have a delta. The roof was filthy under those cross members, so that area was thoroughly cleaned.

I finally installed the rear wiper insert, so new wiper blades front and back.

The Club arrived today and it’s already at work. I am implementing other anti-theft measures.

Made some time to check tire pressures on all of our vehicles, and decided upon 36 psi for the Runner, at least for now.

Got my DMV 2018 sticker, and put that on the rear plate. Confirmed with the DMV that my vanity plate will probably arrive in March.

Oh, while I didn’t break any clips when removing the grille, I did so during the radiator and t-stat project! Damn. I ordered new ones, and those clips just arrived yesterday, but I didn't reinstall the grille just yet as I recently found horns in a garage "move box" from several years ago. The horns are in a deteriorated plastic bag, with no instructions to be located. I see a relay and a small bag of hardware. Anyone here know how to connect a Fiamm El Grande? I wrote that name on a small piece of paper in the bag. I've been searching the web, to no avail as of yet...

 

[theesotericone]

I recently found horns in a garage "move box" from several years ago. The horns are in a deteriorated plastic bag, with no instructions to be located. I see a relay and a small bag of hardware. Anyone here know how to connect a Fiamm El Grande? I wrote that name on a small piece of paper in the bag. I've been searching the web, to no avail as of yet...

Just look up how to wire a 12V relay. It's pretty simple. It should be 85 and 86 go to factory horn wiring. 30 gets constant hot from battery. 87 goes to horn positive. Horn negative returns to battery.

 

[octanejunkie]

Factory horns should be on a relay already, I can confirm in my FSM when I get home.
Thanks for the kind words and the mention.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

This forum is awesome, once again.

theesotericone, the relay has: 87, 85, 30 and 86. Exactly as you depicted.

Even better, Mike, I won't need the relay? I think I saved an online version of the FSM, I believe on my work computer...

 

[TonyB66]

I did find this post:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/183549-horn-relay-location.html#post1862490

 

[theesotericone]

This forum is awesome, once again.

theesotericone, the relay has: 87, 85, 30 and 86. Exactly as you depicted.

Even better, Mike, I won't need the relay? I think I saved an online version of the FSM, I believe on my work computer...

It depends on how you want the horn to sound. If you want a little louder than stock sound just hook them up to the existing factory horn wiring. If you want the real "GTF out of my way sound" you'll want to use the relay they came with. It doesn't matter if we have a factory horn relay. All your doing with the relay supplied with the horn is creating a circuit with to close a switch inside the relay that then allows more battery power to hit the horn. Read up on 12v relays and it'll become pretty clear what I'm trying to say.

 

[TonyB66]

It depends on how you want the horn to sound. If you want a little louder than stock sound just hook them up to the existing factory horn wiring. If you want the real "GTF out of my way sound" you'll want to use the relay they came with. It doesn't matter if we have a factory horn relay. All your doing with the relay supplied with the horn is creating a circuit with to close a switch inside the relay that then allows more battery power to hit the horn. Read up on 12v relays and it'll become pretty clear what I'm trying to say.

"GTF out of my way" would be nice, and seems pretty straight-forward. I've installed relays before and understand what they do; but here, with there being a switch already in place, a relay being a switch, I'll need to look at this more to better understand why this addtional relay is beneficial.

Looks easy enough to do, and I'll try to find time tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

[octanejunkie]

From my experience, horns take power, like [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] said, the more the louder! I agree 100% and would want to give a horn access to as much power as possible but not run that same [amperage] through a switch in the cab, hence the relay.

Looking at my FSM, and my truck, I cannot find a horn relay, which is odd - even my 59 pickup had a horn relay in the factory harness. I'm sure [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can advise. Running a relay behind a relay is somewhat inelegant and usually only creates an additional point of failure unless you are creating a conditional circuit. As far as the install, I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50KrBMlQryE he's a chatty cathy

Looking at the FIAMM 74100 El Grande horn, it does not come with a relay (according to "what's in the package") and others here have installed these horns in a "plug and play" capacity - but I would be interested to hear how they sound with and without the additional relay. Regarding the swap, I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSz-pNrp69g I'm not impressed but home recordings often leave a lot to be desired.

IMO It's easy enough to mock up a relay with wire nuts and tape, do it both way, find out and report back

 

[4Runner4Leon]

There is no Horn Relay in the 3rd Gens, the power is supplied directly by the Body ECU once the horn switch (horn button) is closed:



The real question as to whether to use a relay is not related to voltage, but to amp draw. If your new horns draw more amps than the factory horns do, then you might need to add a relay and larger wiring to provide the needed amps. If the amp draw is similar, then you don't need the relay.

The only way the horn would sound louder with a relay (and larger wiring, because a relay itself is just a switch) is if there was a significant voltage drop across the current wires. Otherwise, they are both 12V and will sound the same as long as they get 12V.

One way to check amp draw is to measure the resistance of factory horns and new horns. If resistance is similar, so is the amp draw. If the new horns have lower resistance, then they will have a higher amp draw (I = V/R) and you might want to add the relay and larger wires.

 

[TonyB66]

Thanks much for the input everyone. Dang busy day with work, wife's b-day, so I'll reply more later.

Both factory horns off, each reads about 2.8 to 2.9 Ohms (measuring over the course of about 20-30 seconds)

The replacements, each measures 1.9 to 2 Ohms

So...

Factory horns draw about 4.2 amps (12/2.85).

Replacement horns draw about 6.2 amps (12/1.95).

Replacements draw about 50% more power. Seems worthwhile to do the relay.

The horn wires are about 10" apart and need to be on that relay together of course. Would prefer that to be in a well-protected place in the engine bay. I guess I can add extensions onto each horn wire, or better yet, find their location further up... This might have been much easier when the radiator was out.

 

[octanejunkie]

Just run one wire back from the + of one of the horn cables to the relay and then make a new horn wire harness that goes back out to the new horns and zip tie it to the core support using the holes along the top (guess who else did that when they ran wires across the core support without pulling the radiator) you can pretty it up later. Wire is cheap. IIRC you bough a spool of speaker wire you can borrow from.

Happy birthday Tony's wife :hug:

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Thanks much for the input everyone. Dang busy day with work, wife's b-day, so I'll reply more later.

Both factory horns off, each reads about 2.8 to 2.9 Ohms (measuring over the course of about 20-30 seconds)

The replacements, each measures 1.9 to 2 Ohms

So...

Factory horns draw about 4.2 amps (12/2.85).

Replacement horns draw about 6.2 amps (12/1.95).

Replacements draw about 50% more power. Seems worthwhile to do the relay.

The horn wires are about 10" apart and need to be on that relay together of course. Would prefer that to be in a well-protected place in the engine bay. I guess I can add extensions onto each horn wire, or better yet, find their location further up... This might have been much easier when the radiator was out.

I bet it's fine as is, but if you want to be extra sure, then move the + wire feeding the horns to the switching terminal of the relay, then run a larger wire from battery or fuse block to the switched relay terminals and then to the new horns.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

Just run one wire back from the + of one of the horn cables to the relay and then make a new horn wire harness that goes back out to the new horns and zip tie it to the core support using the holes along the top (guess who else did that when they ran wires across the core support without pulling the radiator) you can pretty it up later. Wire is cheap. IIRC you bough a spool of speaker wire you can borrow from.

Happy birthday Tony's wife :hug:

Thanks Mike. Not sure she'd approve of me on the forum now, lol.

The factory horns are one wire. So, I'll run the passenger side horn wire back to the vicinity the driver side horn and try to find a good place for the relay there (side of radiator, near headlight).

So, that 14 gauge speaker wire is fine here?