TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[octanejunkie]

14ga speaker wire is more than fine, it's golden

 

[TonyB66]

14ga speaker wire is more than fine, it's golden

Hoping it won't be too thick for routing purposes. Should have time today to tackle this... Will likely use solder and heatshrink tubing on the extension/s.

For power, straight from the battery or is there somewhere else to consider, like maybe an open fuse, or use an Add-a-Circuit, which i have a couple?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Hoping it won't be too thick for routing purposes. Should have time today to tackle this... Will likely use solder and heatshrink tubing on the extension/s.

For power, straight from the battery or is there somewhere else to consider, like maybe an open fuse, or use an Add-a-Circuit, which i have a couple?

I'd use an open fuse or add-a-circuit, it's more elegant. If you do go straight from battery or other unfused terminal, be sure to add an inline fuse.

Like I said before, I think this is largely overkill - your new horn is not that high power a device, and it is not continuous duty like headlights (unless you lay on the horn nonstop ), so it won't have time to heat up and reduce ampacity of wires (which is what wires are all sized for). I still think your existing circuit/wiring would have been perfectly adequate. But I realize we tend to do a lot of overkill on our trucks, that's part of the fun .

 

[TonyB66]

I'd use an open fuse or add-a-circuit, it's more elegant. If you do go straight from battery or other unfused terminal, be sure to add an inline fuse.

Like I said before, I think this is largely overkill - your new horn is not that high power a device, and it is not continuous duty like headlights (unless you lay on the horn nonstop ), so it won't have time to heat up and reduce ampacity of wires (which is what wires are all sized for). I still think your existing circuit/wiring would have been perfectly adequate. But I realize we tend to do a lot of overkill on our trucks, that's part of the fun .

You got me thinking again... Maybe I can use a sound meter here. I've done that before on exhaust system testing. That was an actual SPL though, and I don't know where that is now... Have an app though, that seems quite sensitive. I can measure stock first, then these replacement horns with no relay, then those horns with a relay.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

You got me thinking again... Maybe I can use a sound meter here. I've done that before on exhaust system testing. That was an actual SPL though, and I don't know where that is now... Have an app though, that seems quite sensitive. I can measure stock first, then these replacement horns with no relay, then those horns with a relay.

Easiest thing to do is first try the new horns with your current wiring (no relay), then hook them up directly to a battery with some heavy cables (e.g. booster cables) and try that. My expectation is that you'll see (hear) zero difference in sound.

 

[TonyB66]

Easiest thing to do is first try the new horns with your current wiring (no relay), then hook them up directly to a battery with some heavy cables (e.g. booster cables) and try that. My expectation is that you'll see (hear) zero difference in sound.

I will do testing for sure. People still asleep around here, including my little ones. I like to involve them on experimental projects like this! I'll report back later in the day...

 

[octanejunkie]

Dude https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYN8F4D_lUo

 

[theesotericone]

Since we're on the subject. I'd like to see the decibel readings Tony comes up with from this experiment. I'm betting power from battery is 30% louder then using the stock horn wiring on the aftermarket horns.

 

[TonyB66]

Mike, I almost installed a train horn in my MINI! I have a custom center Borla muffler. Stock has both sides occupied, so tons of free space. But, that car has been on a diet, hundreds of pounds shed, so train horns don't make sense...

theesotericone, should be interesting. Having a great time with the little ones. Feels like a spring day.

Ok, some preliminary results.

This is the set-up, iPhone is 10' from the front of the Runner. The iPhone is located on the MINI's rear bumper, were my handheld radio is in this image.

The lowest reading was the first, with the engine off:

It got louder in the next couple test... I then turned the engine on, and this was the highest:

That is the baseline. More to come in the next post....

 

[TonyB66]

Ok, the aftermarkt El Grande Fiamm horns installed, no relay. Note - while the stock horns face forward, in this test, these face inward, as seen here:

Tests 1 and 2, with engine on registered the same:

Hmmm...

Maybe the horns should be facing forward so it's more of an apples-to-apples comparo? The little ones think I should try, so why not. Next post...

 

[TonyB66]

Ok, with some creative bending, I got the El Grande horns facing forward, like stock, as seen here:

I did multiple test, and not once did it register over 100 dB:

I checked that each horn, low and high, are working, and they are...

Well, not quite what I was expecting. Relay to come a bit later...

 

[octanejunkie]

You can test without a relay by just connecting the two horn POS terminals together and tapping the battery POS with a temporary jumper wire

FWIW I had a set of these in my Amazon cart but after some research decided against spending the $20

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I'm betting power from battery is 30% louder then using the stock horn wiring on the aftermarket horns.

Why would that be? A relay is nothing but a switch, so unless the factory wires are largely underrated for the amps of the horn, I would not expect any benefit.

 

[TonyB66]

You can test without a relay by just connecting the two horn POS terminals together and tapping the battery POS with a temporary jumper wire

FWIW I had a set of these in my Amazon cart but after some research decided against spending the $20

Thanks Mike, saved me some time with the extra connections...

Well, "this" makes me wish I never found these horns. I used some rather thick ground wire that I had removed from the MINI. Looks like 12 gauge.

Both tests:

So.... I'm putting back the stockers for now. I will consider a horn purchase when I get an aftermkt grille, which will happen when get a bumper and lift, all next spring or summer...

Well, the kids enjoyed it! The neighbors, not so much.

I'll test the stock ones again after re-installing...

 

[4Runner4Leon]

You can test without a relay by just connecting the two horn POS terminals together and tapping the battery POS with a temporary jumper wire

Exactly, that's what I was trying to say in post 165.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Well, "this" makes me wish I never found these horns. ...

I'll test the stock ones again after re-installing...

Ugh, that's frustrating! Sorry Tony!

 

[TonyB66]

Ok, stock horns back in, and they don't work. Jeez.

Tested them on the meter, and I get the same resistance as before. The kids were playing with them, but I think they are ok..

Installed again, and nada. There's a popping like sound though.

I removed the screw in the back on each stock horn at one point, the part that connects to the bracket. I'll try to share a photo, if that might help...

 

[theesotericone]

Nice research Tony.

Now we know the horns are crap but it's a cool baseline. I'll order up some Hella Sharptones in the next few weeks and do the same test. I'll have to use your stock numbers as I only have one stock horn currently. lol

 

[octanejunkie]

Make sure the screw and bracket are clean and make good contact, if the horns are one-wire then the brackets are the ground.

You can always leave the leave the Fiamm horns in if the stockers don't work.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

Thanks guys, screws are tight, so ground should be good as that is what I used all along...

Here is the back of the stock horn. I had removed the center screws and nuts. I'm guessing that is the culprit. As I tighten I feel the front of the horn moving outward...

For those who wish to replicate, the app is called "Decibel X". Again, 10' was the distance...