TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[TonyB66]

Working on the house, sort of at least...

A little more excavating, then I can park the Runner back there. I don't want the sun pounding on the new seats and rear seat cover...

Both stock seats out, spot cleaned the carpet...

Makes a little harder for a thief to just drive away now...

For installing a new head unit, speakers, sound-deadening material in the doors, new speaker wire, would that job be easier with the seats out, like the photo above? I'm guessing it might be, I just don't know if markedly so...

Happy Friday everyone.

 

[octanejunkie]

Everything except driving is easier with the seats out Lol

 

[cblock406]

Id say installing the head unit is probably a bit easier with the seat in so you can sit down while doing everything.

 

[octanejunkie]

Id say installing the head unit is probably a bit easier with the seat in so you can sit down while doing everything.

SONOFA :wacko:

He's right tho

 

[Denis_Ruso]

I am patiently waiting to see those Moab seats in your runner before I order mine. Hurry up!

 

[TonyB66]

The driver seat and bracket/slider for both seats should be here by mid to late next week. The brackets/slider for the passenger seat, hopefully next week, but maybe the following week...

Really good point about having a seat when working on the head unit.

I aim to remove the door panels tomorrow. A first for me on this truck, so hopefully nothing too difficult. I imagine the normal button clips...

I will remove the factory speakers then start, and hopefully finish, applying the butyl sound-deadener. Once that is done, I guess I'll get started with the install of the new speakers and running the new speaker wire. I suppose I can use the old speaker wires to pull the new ones through the door conduits...

Sounds like it might be a good idea to install everything from the speakers up to the head unit, with no seats. When that's done, install the seats, or at least one of them, then the head unit.

Oh, today, besides the excavation work on the side of the house and cleaning the carpets, I did the "grey" wire mode, or more accurately, the blue/red wire mod that permits the factory rear locker to work in all modes, not just 4 low.

I didn't try it though. I have no seats installed! I grounded the blue/red wire coming-out of the white connector that plugs into the black box. Seems to be the right one...

 

[TonyB66]

Had some good family time with the little ones today, so not much time with the Runner or the house. No complaints at all though as we had fun playing in the yard...

As I might have mentioned earlier, I got the Paranoid Fabrications ScanGauge II ashtray mount. I added an aluminum strip in the back, bent to the correct angle. JB Welded together...

With that backstop in place, the SC2 sits like this:

Once I got it the way I wanted, I suspended it and painted it a flat black...

It's angled upward quite nicely:

I didn't know we have a light in the ashtray area! Couldn't figure-out what was keeping me from removing the dang thing. I put an LED bulb (#74) in there, and boom - light. Bright white though. I imagine there might be a green sleeve, or other colors to go over such a bulb. Open to suggestions...

I've been keeping this stuff in the back of my MINI. I must admit, I feel a bit intimidated with this install...

What all is there?

Head unit - Pioneer AVH-4100NEX
Wiring harness connector - Metra 70-1761
Amp - Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack, under dash in factory amp location
Front speakers - Infinity Reference 6500CX, component
Rear speakers - Polk Audio DB651, coaxial
Sound-deadening material - Noice 80 mil butyl
Speaker wire - 14 AWG
Backup camera - Pioneer ND-BC8

Not in the photo, various wiring connectors, heat shrink, etc...

If not shared earlier, a thread where I inquired about getting such a head unit and what I'd need...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247273-double-din-input-sought.html

 

[TonyB66]

After some discussion in this thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2867096-post29.html), I decided to go this route and get the Borla ProXS Mufflers 40665 muffler:

https://www.borla.com/products/proxs_muffler_part__40665.html

Summit matched the best price I could find ($102.99 delivered, on Amazon) and I should have it here as soon as tomorrow or Wed.

As seen in that thread [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] had some really good info about the length of the muffler needed, and the offset. Here is the measurement of the stock muffler case or body, about 21 3/4":

Practically no straight pipe at the exit of the muffler:

I'll be replacing all five of the rubber hangers or insulators. This thread helped me quite a bit - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/248389-factory-rubber-exhaust-hanger-insulators.html.

I was going to cut this myself, but given the close cut needed at the rear of the stock muffler I'll get it done at a local shop...

 

[ltsr]

Had some good family time with the little ones today, so not much time with the Runner or the house. No complaints at all though as we had fun playing in the yard...

As I might have mentioned earlier, I got the Paranoid Fabrications ScanGauge II ashtray mount. I added an aluminum strip in the back, bent to the correct angle. JB Welded together...


With that backstop in place, the SC2 sits like this:


Once I got it the way I wanted, I suspended it and painted it a flat black...


It's angled upward quite nicely:

I didn't know we have a light in the ashtray area! Couldn't figure-out what was keeping me from removing the dang thing. I put an LED bulb (#74) in there, and boom - light. Bright white though. I imagine there might be a green sleeve, or other colors to go over such a bulb. Open to suggestions...

I've been keeping this stuff in the back of my MINI. I must admit, I feel a bit intimidated with this install...



What all is there?

Head unit - Pioneer AVH-4100NEX
Wiring harness connector - Metra 70-1761
Amp - Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack, under dash in factory amp location
Front speakers - Infinity Reference 6500CX, component
Rear speakers - Polk Audio DB651, coaxial
Sound-deadening material - Noice 80 mil butyl
Speaker wire - 14 AWG
Backup camera - Pioneer ND-BC8

Not in the photo, various wiring connectors, heat shrink, etc...

If not shared earlier, a thread where I inquired about getting such a head unit and what I'd need...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247273-double-din-input-sought.html

While you have the seats and radio out, might be a good time to install a backup camera during your head unit install and run the wires front to back (if you decide to go with a wired setup). I have the AVIC 5100-nex, similar to what you have and it would have been easier to run the wiring front to back. Just my thoughts.

 

[TonyB66]

While you have the seats and radio out, might be a good time to install a backup camera during your head unit install and run the wires front to back (if you decide to go with a wired setup). I have the AVIC 5100-nex, similar to what you have and it would have been easier to run the wiring front to back. Just my thoughts.

ltsr, I appreciate you chiming-in. It seems that you might not have noticed, but I do already have a backup camera purchased, and in that photo: Pioneer ND-BC8

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-gkJXjbrRTud/p_130NDBC8/Pioneer-ND-BC8.html

I like your thinking. I will eventually mount it on the back side of an aftermkt rack. For now, I can just temporarily secure it somewhere in the interior, facing out the rear window. There's apparently a provision for a second camera too. So, I might want to ponder that also... Maybe not. I would likely be forward-facing.

Maybe tomorrow I can begin removing the door panels. Oh, our anniversary!

Just got two emails...

Seats should be here Wed.

Rock Auto shipped those hanger insulators already, and they should be here by Thursday.

 

[TonyB66]

Just remembered that I need to remove the seat belt receptacles...

They are of course wired. Anyone know exactly what I need to remove with respect to the wiring? I want to avoid any related lights, like one reflecting that the belt is not buckled, when it is...

 

[theesotericone]

Just remembered that I need to remove the seat belt receptacles...

They are of course wired. Anyone know exactly what I need to remove with respect to the wiring? I want to avoid any related lights, like one reflecting that the belt is not buckled, when it is...]

Just follow the wiring back. There should be a pressure sensor attached to it somewhere. You'll need both the pressure sensor and seat belt wires re-installed to keep the light off. I'm sure there's a way to remove the pressure sensor but you'd have to test it's resistance then get the correct resistor wired into it. I've never looked at the 3rd gen system so I'm curious what you find. Post some pics later.

 

[TonyB66]

Just follow the wiring back. There should be a pressure sensor attached to it somewhere. You'll need both the pressure sensor and seat belt wires re-installed to keep the light off. I'm sure there's a way to remove the pressure sensor but you'd have to test it's resistance then get the correct resistor wired into it. I've never looked at the 3rd gen system so I'm curious what you find. Post some pics later.

Will get one of the seats out of the garage into the sunlight tomorrow for a good inspection. I'll snap some photos too.

I'll search here for what others have done with aftermkt seats as that I had not done yet...

 

[octanejunkie]

On my 99 the driver buckle is standalone, just a single wire connection to wire under the seat. The passenger buckle integrates with the in-seat (occupancy) passenger sensor. My driver seat has no occ sensor.

You can migrate the sensor from the/a stock passenger seat to your new seat if you want to, otherwise you need to do something regarding the passenger seat/buckle wiring as it might be tied into the passenger side air bag - I'm not 100% sure but I read there might be a tie-in there.

 

[octanejunkie]

After some discussion in this thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2867096-post29.html), I decided to go this route and get the Borla ProXS Mufflers 40665 muffler:

https://www.borla.com/products/proxs_muffler_part__40665.html

Summit matched the best price I could find ($102.99 delivered, on Amazon) and I should have it here as soon as tomorrow or Wed.

<<< SNIP >>>

I was going to cut this myself, but given the close cut needed at the rear of the stock muffler I'll get it done at a local shop...

Is there a sound byte of that exact muffler on a 3rd gen 4runner floating around out there?

EDIT: found a few revving but they are Borla 40664 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmf0heg4-cU and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI39tF-0bvU

Regarding install, my local muffler guy will weld a new one in for $75 in about 20 mins. That's almost worth it to me not trying to weld it in lying under the car

 

[TonyB66]

On my 99 the driver buckle is standalone, just a single wire connection to wire under the seat. The passenger buckle integrates with the in-seat (occupancy) passenger sensor. My driver seat has no occ sensor.

You can migrate the sensor from the/a stock passenger seat to your new seat if you want to, otherwise you need to do something regarding the passenger seat/buckle wiring as it might be tied into the passenger side air bag - I'm not 100% sure but I read there might be a tie-in there.

Thanks Mike.

Bringing back some memories of other rides and various related issues with aftermarket seats.... Those involved airbag, pretensioners, etc. I still have a large bag of resistors and I actually just stumbled across that last week...

Not finding a whole lot here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/215705-recaro-seat-install.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/223824-damn-flashing-seatbelt-light.html#post2438324

 

[TonyB66]

Is there a sound byte of that exact muffler on a 3rd gen 4runner floating around out there?

EDIT: found a few revving but they are Borla 40664 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmf0heg4-cU and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI39tF-0bvU

Regarding install, my local muffler guy will weld a new one in for $75 in about 20 mins. That's almost worth it to me not trying to weld it in lying under the car

I seem to recall a one or two more clips. If I find them, I'll share...

I've had a couple Borlas before, including the current one in my SCd MINI. I'm reasonably confident I'll be fine with the loudness. The deeper sound I will like...

Mike, I was going to cut mine out in the driveway, but decided against that too. I have one of those pipe cutter tools that has always worked well for me, almost exactly like this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2W86Q8280F2Q3

Much easier on an old system than a jarring reciprocating saw. A very nice cut too...

But, with that rear cut needing to be so close to the backside of the factory muffler, that is not a good tool for such...

Checking to see if a local shop will be open this Friday. If so, I'll likely re-install the factory driver's seat to get down there, unless I got the seat belt wiring figured-out for the Corbeau...

A rep at Borla I spoke with knows the 3rd gens pretty well. He said our factory muffler is a tank, likely well-over 20 pounds. This Borla shipped is 13, and actually a little less than 10 pounds.

And, as I type, an email from Summit Racing... The Borla will be here tomorrow. They ship out of Vegas, and almost always one day to CA. Nice.

Quite a few people believe that the 1st gen Tacomas produced more power off the lot compared to our Runners because of the quieter ride SUV buyers would expect. Apparently Tacomas were freer-flowing, on both the intake and exhaust sides. If so, there might be some marginal upside...

 

[octanejunkie]

The thing I worry about with an aftermarket muffler is droning at certain RPM on the freeway - I drive loooong stretches at the same RPM and wouldn't want to end up finding out I hate my new muffler in the middle of an 8-hour trip. I really need more than a parking lot rev-video to make an informed decision, but that's rare with $100 mufflers

Self install? With the amount of crud that will fall when cutting that exhaust, not to mention a 20+ pound rusty muffler, I'll let Scotty at Magic Muffler do mine Lol

Also, Summit ships out of Sparks/Reno - I pass by it sometimes when I'm out there one day to us is sweet tho

 

[TonyB66]

Droning? Enter the new sound system :thumb:

Seriously, I understand, and I'm prepared for it. I've been lucky the past couple times that the drone was not in a cruise sweet spot.

Hold-off a week or two and I'll report my findings.

A new muffler, and rubber hanger insulators for 125 bucks, total with install, probably close to $200.

Speaking of which, those insulators are set to arrive on Thursday. I'll swap those in Thu or Fri morning, hopefully in time for an install appt on Fri. I think that shop might be closed for the holidays already though...

I stand corrected - Sparks, NV. Not sure why I thought Vegas...

 

[octanejunkie]

Droning? Enter the new sound system :thumb:

Seriously, I understand, and I'm prepared for it. I've been lucky the past couple times that the drone was not in a cruise sweet spot.

Hold-off a week or two and I'll report my findings.

A new muffler, and rubber hanger insulators for 125 bucks, total with install, probably close to $200.

Cool, thanks

I saw a mention of a "walker bolt-on" muffler here

I replaced my flowmaster muffler with a walker bolt-on. What a night and day difference! It feels like I'm driving a luxury suv again :thumb3:

So I searched the forum and found this

Walker Quiet flow is $125 shipped on Amazon. Order the gasket and bolts along with it. You will likely have to cut off the old bolts. You may* also need the tail piece. If so, that's another $75 or so. Should take an hour or two to install, not difficult. No welding is necessary with the correct parts.

So I searched amazon for "Walker Quiet flow" and found this Walker 54681 Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel Muffler Assembly and gasket. Some reviews mentioned using two different gaskets, the first one and this one. One guy said to use the Toyota gaskets, but I'll have to search those out.

It was also suggested in several threads and reviews I read the that fastening hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) will most likely need to be replaced, if they come off at all - otherwise they'll need to be cut off. Start soaking them now, I guess. Lol

Also found CARB compliant Cats on Amazon, the front is a bolt on for $320 and the rear a weld in for $100

I'll wait to see what yours comes out looking like and sounding like. Lol