Toyota engines and synthetic oil

[Canazes9]

So now your excuse on why you explained it wrong is because everyone else explains it wrong, you should continue to explain it wrong too? LOL, okay whatever floats your boat

BTW, there are tons of ways for tiny amounts of coolant to get into the engine and/or intake tract w/o imminent catastrophic failure, but probably not in Texas so I won't even bother.

I was addressing Envy's post. I was not saying everyone else is explaining it wrong - if I had wanted to go down that path I would have started with a discussion about the differences between smoke and a vapor.

David

 

[Barry694]

Synthetic Oil

As long as you use the correct weight you can use synthetic oil in any vehicle engine. The weight is stamped on the oil filler cap and also listed in your manual. I started using synthetic (AMSOIL) in 1980 in a BMW and used it for many years in many vehicles. Since I have been a Toyota/Lexus buyer for so long I cannot count, I have used Toyota's brand and Mobil 1. Never had a problem. However, if you have an engine with a lot of miles on it do not start using synthetic. You will run into problems with seals/gaskets, etc. As far as intervals; as long as the power train warranty is in effect you need to change at manufacturer's recommendations. My 4Runner is no question. I have had a few Lexus vehicles and the interval differs depending on model, even though they have the same basic engine. I presently have a 2012 LS460. The SUV GX460 Lexus uses the same basic engine, except it is not tuned for as much performance (~305hp vs 380hp). The GX states ever 10,000: The LS states every 5,000. I think that is weird, but you have to follow the manual to keep the power train warranty in effect.

 

[eddiebx]

Car blowing white smoke is burning coolant, probably nothing to do with the oil they run or change interval.
What trash? The only crap I have encountered in fuel tanks is rust in the TOP of metal tanks. Gasoline mixes pretty readily. The only thing you risk is damaging a fuel pump by running it dry, as it uses the gasoline for cooling.

Blowing white smoke is usually an indication of burning oil, not coolant. Oil burning in cars with low mileage often can be attributable to oil change intervals, but not due to following the manufactures recommendation (it is amazing how many people don't change their oil as recommended).

David

I was addressing Envy's post. I was not saying everyone else is explaining it wrong - if I had wanted to go down that path I would have started with a discussion about the differences between smoke and a vapor.

David

I am not sure how your reply to Jeremy is not telling him that he's explaining it wrong, but whatever. Anyway, I am done, I think this thread has gone far enough off topic and I apologize to everyone else for dragging this thread off course.

 

[Canazes9]

I am not sure....

You can add it to the list.

David

 

[Envy]

Jeez didn't think my post would get us that far off topic. Thanks for the replies to my question though.

 

[cdthiker]

All I know, is that even toyota gets confused.
I have had my '12 tacoma serviced at three diffenert stealerships since i bought it. the first tow went back and forth about what was supposed to go in my 2.7
now they have it running synthetic, it is after all what the manual says.
the ten k changes have me worried. i just got my last " free" service from them so I think I will be bumping it down to ever 5k i think..... I would rather spend the money up front and make things last longer....
and yes, I do realize that my response is lightly off topic to the rest of the thread, but then again, it would seem that several are
hahahah
cheers
td

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I'm probably older than most of you guys so I am old school. I believe you should not run your tank empty. Debris as well as moisture from condensation will collect on the bottom of the tank. This was a very real problem with old school metal tanks. Maybe not so much today but I still think it's a good practice.

As for white smoke, I think it's mostly steam. Notice how it disappears much faster than the blue (burning oil) or black (too rich mixture) smoke.

This is still partially true, the older tanks were coated steel that tended to corrode and all that rust flaking and such wreaked havoc on fuel pumps and filters. Modern vehicles use sock filters and internal fuel pumps in plastic tanks which greatly alleviates this problem; but the fuel pumps use the actual fuel as a coolant as well, so you can shorten the life of the fuel pump if constantly running to the last possible drop.

As long as you use the correct weight you can use synthetic oil in any Toyota vehicle engine. The weight is stamped on the oil filler cap and also listed in your manual. I started using synthetic (AMSOIL) in 1980 in a BMW and used it for many years in many vehicles. Since I have been a Toyota/Lexus buyer for so long I cannot count, I have used Toyota's brand and Mobil 1. Never had a problem. However, if you have an engine with a lot of miles on it do not start using synthetic. You will run into problems with seals/gaskets, etc. As far as intervals; as long as the power train warranty is in effect you need to change at manufacturer's recommendations. My 4Runner is no question. I have had a few Lexus vehicles and the interval differs depending on model, even though they have the same basic engine. I presently have a 2012 LS460. The SUV GX460 Lexus uses the same basic engine, except it is not tuned for as much performance (~305hp vs 380hp). The GX states ever 10,000: The LS states every 5,000. I think that is weird, but you have to follow the manual to keep the power train warranty in effect.

I added a critical word there for you, without going into a ton of detail (have said it many times before as has 1Engineer and other members) for Toyota, just go by the SAE/API rating. But for most Non-Asian Modern vehicles their specs as they are more detailed than simple SAE/API ratings (i.e. VW/Audi's oil specs, Mercedes-Benz's specs, ect are often serial numbers rather than SAE API ratings; one VW spec for example is 502 00)

As for why the Tacoma 1GR-FE uses conventional oil, I would assume it is because Toyota has not yet thrown the Dual-VVTi version of the 1GR-FE into the Tacoma yet (last time I checked at least, I can't remember for sure off the top of my head) as this is the only commonality between the FJ Cruiser and 4Runner and difference between the Tacoma. Before you ask me why that would make a difference; the only reason I can think of is that for the Dual VVTi system Toyota found 0W-20 to have a better volume, pressure, and/or viscosity for that application vs. 5W-30.

 

[1000MPH]

I like the disclaimer at the bottom of the document.
Like any big company these days, the left hand doesn't seem to know what the right hand is doing. I have confidence that Toyota mfg has designed an excellent motor intended to take full advantage of the Toyota spec'd 0w-20 synthetic.
I also have very high confidence that Toyota USA marketing know very little about the products they sell or the parts that go in them. Including oil.
This goes double for the dealers and service departments.
I would not bet my truck that the oil (and/or service) I pay for is what I'm getting unless I'm putting it in myself. This goes for brand and weight. Synth or Dino.
I did not go over 5k on my dealer supplied oil because I don't trust them. On the OC I perform I'm starting out at 7500 miles or 6 mos. because my driving is a combo of short trips <10 miles and long trips <800 with plenty of 4wd.
I've sent in for a UOA including add pack testing to aid in adjusting my OCI.
I'm not confident in recommending an OCI for anyone without knowing enough about their driving habits or other factors.
Ymmv

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I like the disclaimer at the bottom of the document.
Like any big company these days, the left hand doesn't seem to know what the right hand is doing. I have confidence that Toyota mfg has designed an excellent motor intended to take full advantage of the Toyota spec'd 0w-20 synthetic.
I also have very high confidence that Toyota USA marketing know very little about the products they sell or the parts that go in them. Including oil.
This goes double for the dealers and service departments.
I would not bet my truck that the oil (and/or service) I pay for is what I'm getting unless I'm putting it in myself. This goes for brand and weight. Synth or Dino.
I did not go over 5k on my dealer supplied oil because I don't trust them. On the OC I perform I'm starting out at 7500 miles or 6 mos. because my driving is a combo of short trips <10 miles and long trips <800 with plenty of 4wd.
I've sent in for a UOA including add pack testing to aid in adjusting my OCI.
I'm not confident in recommending an OCI for anyone without knowing enough about their driving habits or other factors.
Ymmv

I honestly wish I could say confidently that you are misguided in you belief of dealerships... but I work at one and we are one of the better ones compared to the horror stories on the forum.

While most bad dealerships don't need an excuse, Toyota's shift in ideology when it comes to their service structure is very worrisome. They cut costs by robbing the technicians on warranty labor time (every manufacturer does this, no big surprise here), the lube techs are expected to do multi-point inspections, oil changes, and rotations all in under half an hour (not possible if you're following Toyota's guidelines by the way, not that many do anyways as it makes no flat rate money), this year they've cracked down on warranty so hard its not even funny; our dealership has almost daily audits of all the warranty claims. They get ridiculously specific to the point they'll penalize us for an extra plastic clip ordered.