Toytec Boss w/KDSS install question

Sig_Fan_55

New member
First off, I searched! I swear!!

So I am going to be installing a Toytec Boss lift tomorrow on my 2015 Trail w/KDSS, has anyone been successful in installing the kit without disconnecting the sways? Mostly looking for the front, I plan to cheat the rears with a spring compressor (or at least that’s my plan). Reading through the install manual for the Boss kit it says not to disconnect them but pretty much all the threads I see here involve disconnecting them and the fun job of reconnecting them. I will be doing UCA’s at the same time if that matters.

And thanks for all those who post up DIY’s and torque specs, Just searching here has pretty much given me all the info I need but the above question.
 
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IMO, having installed lifts on three KDSS equipped 5th Gens, you would spend more time trying to get the lift installed with the sway bars on than you would getting the KDSS bars re-installed.

The rear KDSS bar is a piece of cake to re-connect. Leave the end links connected to the axle and remove the two bolts at the piston and fixed link. Let the bar hang, perform the rear lift install as usual, then swing the bar up and reconnect.

For the front, disconnect the KDSS bar on both lower control arms. Let the bar lower and hang. Perform the front lift, then reconnect the sway bar. A few tips regarding the front bar:

-connect the passenger side first, then drivers side
-use a jack under the piston and ratchet straps if you have to in order to get the bar back into place
-install the lower KDSS bracket bolts first, tighten them once they are threaded properly
-when the lower bolt is almost tight, you should be able to line the top bolt hole up with a screw driver since there is a little alignment slot conveniently placed in the bracket
-once again, make sure not to cross thread the bolts.

Good luck, don't rush and you will be fine.
 
Jbstrd gave some great info. It's really not that big of a deal to disconnect the KDSS. I was worried about it too from reading all the hype but it was no big deal. Take your time, relax, and it'll be fine.
FWIW, I didn't do a zero point calibration and don't have any issues. (I have my adjustable coilovers set at about 2" though).
 
5 hr install and now she sits a little higher. Ended up disconnecting the KDSS and like you guys said, it wasn't that bad to reconnect so thanks for all the tips. Still got about a 1/2 drop front to back that I may even out but I'm really happy with the look and the ride.
9cf3ca16f84c16f7ec5a99235086d705.jpg
9c0294e8462c15742dd6a312b735eedb.jpg
 
Awesome! Good job. It looks good. I would leave the slight rake for when you carry any load. I hate when you get the reverse rake going on.
 
Awesome! Good job. It looks good. I would leave the slight rake for when you carry any load. I hate when you get the reverse rake going on.


I was thinking the same thing. After the alignment it looked quite a bit better than it did after the install, or maybe it just settled. I'm going to leave it as is for a while, get my Gobi design finalized and make up my mind on a skid plate so I can keep the project going. Can't wait till she gets nice and muddy.

Thanks again for the tips!
 
I was thinking the same thing. After the alignment it looked quite a bit better than it did after the install, or maybe it just settled. I'm going to leave it as is for a while, get my Gobi design finalized and make up my mind on a skid plate so I can keep the project going. Can't wait till she gets nice and muddy.

Thanks again for the tips!

Anytime. Keep us posted.
 
I'm in the process of getting the same lift and I'm starting to see more and more people get body mount chops. Is that necessary for a 3" lift or is more dependent on tire size and backspacing of the wheel?

If it's the later then i'd be sticking with the original wheel on the trail premium for now and then upgrading to a scs later but be looking at 275 70 17's i think.

Any information or suggestions on this?

Thanks!
 
Greg,

You won't need a BMC with this lift setup, 285s, stock wheels, or aftermarket ones w/ moderate offset/backspacing. If you start going way negative, or if you want to run wheel spacers for a slightly wider stance, you will need the BMC to be anything other than worthless offroad.
 
I'm in the process of getting the same lift and I'm starting to see more and more people get body mount chops. Is that necessary for a 3" lift or is more dependent on tire size and backspacing of the wheel?

If it's the later then i'd be sticking with the original wheel on the trail premium for now and then upgrading to a scs later but be looking at 275 70 17's i think.

Any information or suggestions on this?

Thanks!

I have 17x9" wheels with 285's and if you want an easier time with rubbing issues I wouldn't go with that wide of a wheel. I was able to eliminate the rubbing on the driver's side by trimming the back mud flap, but it still rubs on the body mount quite bad on the passenger side even though I did the same trimming. I have LR UCA's so I really just need to take it to a shop that's willing to put in the effort required, but going with the 9" wide wheels didn't help. I used Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit
Which as you can see below, made my setup poke out way further. This is my first vehicle with oversize tires and I figured since the tire is still wider than the wheel, why should it make a difference? But I can now tell you it really does. They do look good though.

Stock TE Wheels = 7.5" width, 16mm offset
Enduro Pro = 9" width, -12mm offset

ZnnG0JE.jpg


For comparison, here is a 285/70r17 on a stock TE wheel. Quite a difference...

vFdf1yi.jpg
 
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[MENTION=107267]4Rager[/MENTION]

Thank you so much for this info. It was simple enough for me to understand (pics always help) and enough information to keep me busy/thinking for a while.

With this being said, I think i can use stock wheels, toytec boss lift, and upgraded tires without having to do a BMC.

Thanks!
 
I'm in the process of getting the same lift and I'm starting to see more and more people get body mount chops. Is that necessary for a 3" lift or is more dependent on tire size and backspacing of the wheel?

If it's the later then i'd be sticking with the original wheel on the trail premium for now and then upgrading to a scs later but be looking at 275 70 17's i think.

I'm running 275's on 8" wheels with 4.1 back space. Getting some tire contact on the mud flaps but no need for the BMC.

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[MENTION=131255]John-West[/MENTION]

Yea..it does suck that I'll most likely have to remove the mud flaps but I guess every modification comes with a sacrifice or two in some manner. This I can live with.

I just don't think I would be able to cut the body mount at such an early stage in our relationship lol.

Thanks for the pictures!
 
[MENTION=131255]John-West[/MENTION]

Yea..it does suck that I'll most likely have to remove the mud flaps but I guess every modification comes with a sacrifice or two in some manner. This I can live with.

I just don't think I would be able to cut the body mount at such an early stage in our relationship lol.

Thanks for the pictures!

I'm running boss lift with scs and 275. Don't have to do BMC, just do what gmatherly said.. remove or try to remold mudflaps. You also might have to move the wheel liner.
 
IMO, having installed lifts on three KDSS equipped 5th Gens, you would spend more time trying to get the lift installed with the sway bars on than you would getting the KDSS bars re-installed.

The rear KDSS bar is a piece of cake to re-connect. Leave the end links connected to the axle and remove the two bolts at the piston and fixed link. Let the bar hang, perform the rear lift install as usual, then swing the bar up and reconnect.

For the front, disconnect the KDSS bar on both lower control arms. Let the bar lower and hang. Perform the front lift, then reconnect the sway bar. A few tips regarding the front bar:

-connect the passenger side first, then drivers side
-use a jack under the piston and ratchet straps if you have to in order to get the bar back into place
-install the lower KDSS bracket bolts first, tighten them once they are threaded properly
-when the lower bolt is almost tight, you should be able to line the top bolt hole up with a screw driver since there is a little alignment slot conveniently placed in the bracket
-once again, make sure not to cross thread the bolts.

Good luck, don't rush and you will be fine.

This is probably a dumb question but does all of this apply even if using a frame lift versus a floor jack?
 
IMO, having installed lifts on three KDSS equipped 5th Gens, you would spend more time trying to get the lift installed with the sway bars on than you would getting the KDSS bars re-installed.

The rear KDSS bar is a piece of cake to re-connect. Leave the end links connected to the axle and remove the two bolts at the piston and fixed link. Let the bar hang, perform the rear lift install as usual, then swing the bar up and reconnect.

For the front, disconnect the KDSS bar on both lower control arms. Let the bar lower and hang. Perform the front lift, then reconnect the sway bar. A few tips regarding the front bar:

-connect the passenger side first, then drivers side
-use a jack under the piston and ratchet straps if you have to in order to get the bar back into place
-install the lower KDSS bracket bolts first, tighten them once they are threaded properly
-when the lower bolt is almost tight, you should be able to line the top bolt hole up with a screw driver since there is a little alignment slot conveniently placed in the bracket
-once again, make sure not to cross thread the bolts.

Good luck, don't rush and you will be fine.

Very helpful advice.
 
This is probably a dumb question but does all of this apply even if using a frame lift versus a floor jack?

When using a frame lift, you will have to use separate jacks to assist in moving the sway bar and KDSS piston into position. That will be the only way to line the bolt holes up.
 

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