Toytec Ultimate Install Questions

[TheOnlyQP]

Hey guys, I am in the middle of installing the Toytec Ultimate kit with some Light Racing UCAs. We got stuck on the ball joint on the stock UCAs so I'm off the Harbor Freight to get a separator.

-Should I take out everything at once? UCAs and coil overs and reinstall it all, or one and then the other?

-It seems like I need more droop to get the front coils out. Currently it is stock springs with 5100s set to 1.75- Do I need to use a spring compressor to get it out?

-The KDSS piston hasn't extended- Does it only do that sometimes?

-There is no stabilizer link on either side- is this a TE thing?

Apparently Toyota used an impact wrench to put the front skid on when they did the oil change. Took nearly an hour to get it off and all the bolts are ruined. A-holes

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Doublehaul]

I'm not sure on trail with KDSS, but I had no problem getting the front coils out without compressing the springs on my sr5. I took the shock tower and spring assembly out first, the ball joint can be kind of fussy so we used a mallet to knock it loose. That was the hardest part next to replacing the UCA.

I didn't read enough about it, and made the mistake of not being VERY careful with the sensor wire and let the lower control arm assembly hang and tug on it. Also be very careful getting around it when you're swapping the uca and coil over. It is a very tender wire and I don't want you to make the same mistake I did and light up your dash like Christmas. If you get lights for abs, vsc, and 4wd, you have potentially damaged the delicate wire. Good luck and let us know how it goes! Post pics of the finished project too.

 

[homeyclaus]

For the top ball joint, a fork will rip the ball joint boot. Remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, douse it with a penetrating oil, and give it a straight-on whack with a rubber mallet.

Note that if you have KDSS, you need to unbolt the sway bar from the lower A arms, the mount, and the sway-bar-end of the KDSS cylinder to get the front A arms to drop down all the way. When you put it back together, attach sway bar to A arms first, then KDSS cylinder, and use a jack to push up the KDSS cylinder to get the sway bar to line up with the other sway bar link.

ETA: No, there is no sway bar end link on KDSS models - they bolt directly to the lower A arm.

 

[chmura]

No need for a separator.

Just get your biggest hammer and wack the knuckle where the ball joint is (NOT THE SCREW!!) a few times and it will pop off. Do the same thing with the tie rod end ball joint.

I never used a ball joint separator. Sometimes a ball joint separator can cause damage.

I just installed an icon lift on my 4runner and I did it this way.

 

[Jono.ful]

^this.

In order to get your lower control arm to drop so you can remove the springs, put your floor jack under the lower ball joint, loosen the castle nuts on the LCA where it attaches to the frame, and then lower the jack. The spring should drop right out

 

[TheOnlyQP]

I tried the hammer trick. Didn't work. I think I need a bigger hammer so I'll get one of those too.

I did unbolt the sway bar everywhere. It does look like it dropped quite a bit.

I did NOT unbolt the two bolts under the brake rotors. Yet. I was reviewing Antmans spacer install. I'm guessing taking those out will get me the clearance to get the shock tower out.

So does anyone think I can remove the UCA and the shock tower at the same time or will that just mess me up?

 

[chmura]

I tried the hammer trick. Didn't work. I think I need a bigger hammer so I'll get one of those too.

I did unbolt the sway bar everywhere. It does look like it dropped quite a bit.

I did NOT unbolt the two bolts under the brake rotors. Yet. I was reviewing Antmans spacer install. I'm guessing taking those out will get me the clearance to get the shock tower out.

So does anyone think I can remove the UCA and the shock tower at the same time or will that just mess me up?

Yeah you need a big hammer. I had to wack it 6 times for it to come apart.

 

[Jono.ful]

You can do the shock and uca at the same time no problem. As for separating the ball joint, i used a 3lb sledge, it fell apart after 2 good wacks. Google "upper ball joint replacement no separator", and "ome lift no spring compressor"

 

[Jesse1983]

Yes - remove UCA first:

then shock assembly:

install new shock assembly:

then install new UCA:

go party arty:

 

[TheOnlyQP]

Thanks Jesse. I'll let you know how it goes.

One last question: Do I need to pull those 2 bolts under the brake rotor?

 

[Jesse1983]

no, you should not have to.

 

[TheOnlyQP]

Well, got the front done. Ran out of time on the rears. I think I might need a taller jack for back there.

I apparently broke one of the sensor wires though. I was pretty careful about keeping them supported but I guess not.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[2010riddle]

Looks good - did you purchase the ultimate kit that you assemble yourself? I just noticed the difference in the top plates & bushings from Jesse1983's photos and yours.

If so how easy was it to assemble? Did it take more time since you had to remove the original shock before assembling the toytec?

 

[TheOnlyQP]

I already had Bilsteins installed. I took those out and assembled them with the coilover kit from Toytec. It took forever using a spring compressor but wasn't difficult.

There's my sweet dash lights. Fml

 

[Jesse1983]

Looks good. Glad you got the front taken care of. The rear is a breeze compared to the front.

Looks good - did you purchase the ultimate kit that you assemble yourself? I just noticed the difference in the top plates & bushings from Jesse1983's photos and yours.

If so how easy was it to assemble? Did it take more time since you had to remove the original shock before assembling the toytec?

Just to be clear, my kit came pre-assembled. The top plate spacer makes for a full 3 inch lift.

There's my sweet dash lights. Fml

I'm sure you know this, but just in case, when you get that abs sensor replaced those lights will turn off.

 

[TheOnlyQP]

Is it the sensor or the wire? I was under the impression it is the wire.

Is there any way I can tell which side I screwed up, or should I just buy two wires/sensors?

 

[TheOnlyQP]

Bump. Will a code scanner tell me which wire it is? I know I can multi meter it to figure it out but I don't have the time or the multimeter.

Heading to the mountains tomorrow and expecting snow so I'd like all the electrical nannies to work just in case.

 

[Jono.ful]

Don't panic about sensor wires just yet ... The VSC light could indicate you need a zero point calibration. I had the same issue after my lift.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/71093-yaw-rate-acceleration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html

 

[TheOnlyQP]

Since the ABS light is also on I don't think it is the VSC calibration. I could be wrong though.

Lights on: ABS, differential, multi terrain, and VSC.... And the gas light. Doh

 

[2010riddle]

Just to be clear, my kit came pre-assembled. The top plate spacer makes for a full 3 inch lift.

Hmm so is it possible to get the full 3 inch lift with this assemble yourself kit? Perhaps its possible to get less than 1" lift on the lowest setting?