Trans cooler install option

[octanejunkie]

Bought a trans cooler and started planning the install. Reading the cooler instructions I noted they don't recommend bending the line tighter than a 3" radius, which got me thinking...

Following BMAD and millions of others I could just route the lines through the hold in the core support and insullate insullate insulllate OR I could make it more trick.

Below that big hold that the AC condensor lines run through is a bare patch of steel. My thought was to drill two holes here and install two 6-AN bulkheads and use 90° AN-to-Slip-on fittings for the hoses. Using this method I can accommodate the two bends needed in a tighter radius and not worry about kinked hoses. The cost of the fittings adds about $50 to the project budget, but let's face it, it's only money right and our girls are worth it.

So the question is - what would you do if budget were no issue?

 

[AntleredRuin]

Bought a trans cooler and started planning the install. Reading the cooler instructions I noted they don't recommend bending the line tighter than a 3" radius, which got me thinking...

Following BMAD and millions of others I could just route the lines through the hold in the core support and insullate insullate insulllate OR I could make it more trick.

Below that big hold that the AC condensor lines run through is a bare patch of steel. My thought was to drill two holes here and install two 6-AN bulkheads and use 90° AN-to-Slip-on fittings for the hoses. Using this method I can accommodate the two bends needed in a tighter radius and not worry about kinked hoses. The cost of the fittings adds about $50 to the project budget, but let's face it, it's only money right and our girls are worth it.

So the question is - what would you do if budget were no issue?

I would do the 2nd option, honestly. Maybe get something with valves on either end so you can remove the cooler if necessary and avoid having to drain it.
That'll make front end work (bumper, radiator, etc) easier, and just has a 'cool' factor.

I've not needed to do a flush on my tranny since installing my cooler, but with the hoses routed through the core support vs just attached to the radiator, it'll definitely be a bit trickier. Of course, I just do drain and fills every 10k or so, so don't thing a flush should ever be needed again. But we'll see.

 

[psraff]

There's one guy (don't remember who), who hard piped most of it. And he did it right, with a tubing bender and everything. It looked sharp.

For me, do what's in your budget first. Do what turns you on, second. Adding valves and 90* fittings and everything can restrict flow at times, so keep it simple. In saying that, I do have my two temp probes (before and aft) so plan it out and be happy with it.

And if you're anything like me. In a year, you'll have to change it!

 

[Scramble]

I think you should stop with all of these mods & convert it to 4WD already! :hatsoff:

 

[octanejunkie]

I think you should stop with all of these mods & convert it to 4WD already! :hatsoff:

[MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION]

 

[RS Dude]

I am jealous of junkie's fat, fat wallet! Hee, hee, heeeeee!:lookout:

 

[octanejunkie]

I am jealous of junkie's fat, fat wallet! Hee, hee, heeeeee!:lookout:

Please, call me OJ

*adjusts glove

 

[electroCrunch]

A lot of people have added a cooler and have not had issues with kinking and restricting flow to the point of it being detrimental. Ha, well not a lot of people coming back to report that to the forum I suppose.

My 2 cents, keep it simple. Those joints and elbows add more possibilities for leaks in the future where the tubing seals to the various joints. I think you could just keep the hose radii to stay within their recommendation without too much trouble.

I'm on my version 2 of my cooler setup, but have used the same lines for both coolers and was able to avoid kinking of any sort with a big enough radius. I'd bet once you get in there with some tubing you'd figure out how to keep the bends to a minimum.

If you're monitoring transmission temps now and can come up with some baselines, then you could monitor after the install to see if temps have changed as you wanted them to. in the end, that's really what you're shooting for. If you think temps should be lower and suspect kinks are to blame, then I'd say to start doing the work of reducing radii, adding fittings, etc.

 

[octanejunkie]

A lot of people have added a cooler and have not had issues with kinking and restricting flow to the point of it being detrimental. Ha, well not a lot of people coming back to report that to the forum I suppose.

My 2 cents, keep it simple. Those joints and elbows add more possibilities for leaks in the future where the tubing seals to the various joints. I think you could just keep the hose radii to stay within their recommendation without too much trouble.

I'm on my version 2 of my cooler setup, but have used the same lines for both coolers and was able to avoid kinking of any sort with a big enough radius. I'd bet once you get in there with some tubing you'd figure out how to keep the bends to a minimum.

If you're monitoring transmission temps now and can come up with some baselines, then you could monitor after the install to see if temps have changed as you wanted them to. in the end, that's really what you're shooting for. If you think temps should be lower and suspect kinks are to blame, then I'd say to start doing the work of reducing radii, adding fittings, etc.

Good points, plus the slip-on-fittings are like a week away and who can wait that long?!?! :nerd:

I will do the install with just hoses like commoner and see what happens, and yes, I monitor temps with Torque Pro so I have baselines already.

 

[Chief Yota]

There's one guy (don't remember who), who hard piped most of it. And he did it right, with a tubing bender and everything. It looked sharp.

Were you thinking of jdmpnoy89? Such a clean build!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/237126-jdmpnoy89s-2000-4runner-build.html

 

[electroCrunch]

Were you thinking of jdmpnoy89? Such a clean build!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/237126-jdmpnoy89s-2000-4runner-build.html

Wow, that hard line install looks really clean. Goals.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[octanejunkie]

Were you thinking of jdmpnoy89? Such a clean build!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/237126-jdmpnoy89s-2000-4runner-build.html

Holy Schnikies that's a clean build :humble:

Wonder how much gap there is between his trans cooler and the AC condenser core. I measured core support rails and AC condenser this morning and determined that the brackets I plan to use/fabricate to mount my cooler will put it within 1/8" or less.

 

[RS Dude]

Holy Schnikies that's a clean build :humble:

Wonder how much gap there is between his trans cooler and the AC condenser core. I measured core support rails and AC condenser this morning and determined that the brackets I plan to use/fabricate to mount my cooler will put it within 1/8" or less.

Looks like a new condenser and drier should be on your shopping list, fellow 2 wheeler.:beer:

 

[theesotericone]

Holy Schnikies that's a clean build :humble:

Wonder how much gap there is between his trans cooler and the AC condenser core. I measured core support rails and AC condenser this morning and determined that the brackets I plan to use/fabricate to mount my cooler will put it within 1/8" or less.

Like [MENTION=28808]psraff[/MENTION] said, fitting with a smaller diameter then your hose will also restrict flow. You do the friction calcs and see which method produces more friction. Tighter bend vs the ID of X amount of fittings. I'm betting a smaller radius of even 2" would still allow more flow then adding any fittings.

With that said, I know you have already decided to skip the fittings. Mine has no bends under a 3" radius and it was easy enough to do. Once the bumpers off take a close look at how the ARB will mount. Use any voids between bumper and body to snake hose through. I had to use some 3/4 pvc cut in small lengths and zip tied to the hose at a few abrasion points. Also remember the cooler can be mounted in any orientation. Keep those two things in mind and you'll find restriction free routing in pretty easy.

 

[octanejunkie]

Looks like a new condenser and drier should be on your shopping list, fellow 2 wheeler.:beer:

I'll add that to the never-ending list Lol

 

[octanejunkie]

Like [MENTION=28808]psraff[/MENTION] said, fitting with a smaller diameter then your hose will also restrict flow. You do the friction calcs and see which method produces more friction. Tighter bend vs the ID of X amount of fittings. I'm betting a smaller radius of even 2" would still allow more flow then adding any fittings.

With that said, I know you have already decided to skip the fittings. Mine has no bends under a 3" radius and it was easy enough to do. Once the bumpers off take a close look at how the ARB will mount. Use any voids between bumper and body to snake hose through. I had to use some 3/4 pvc cut in small lengths and zip tied to the hose at a few abrasion points. Also remember the cooler can be mounted in any orientation. Keep those two things in mind and you'll find restriction free routing in pretty easy.

IF I were to use fittings, they would be 3/8" ID (6-AN) and you are right, a contiguous path with fewer, swooping bends (large radius) will flow better than a bunch of 90° bends of the same ID. We use the same concept when pulling wire through conduits in locating pull stations.

I'm sure this will be the biggest time-suck tomorrow when installing my bumper, but I'm ready! Mounting the bumper doesn't concern me at all, I love doing this stuff (fabricating) as well as auto electrical. Stay tuned for an install thread or two on each sub-project.

 

[RS Dude]

I'll add that to the never-ending list Lol

Don't feel bad, I re-did my a/c system about 5 yrs ago.

 

[TonyB66]

Mike, just saw this thread... Nice purchase, again.

I'm not fan of 90's and sharp turns with anything basically, from coax to air intakes, exhaust as well as fluids.

I guess if you did indeed want to add an inline filter, now would be the time. I believe the braintrust thought it best to just stick with the screen "filter" on our older trucks...

I know when I added a remote oil filter on another ride I actually took into account the the volume of the plumbing, routing and filter size itself and chose accordingly such that the total volume would be something like exactly 6 or 7 quarts.

I believe you already receive ATF temps through your OBII (not all 3rd gens do I believe), otherwise I'd see an opportunity here for you...

Enjoy your wrenching!

 

[octanejunkie]

Mike, just saw this thread... Nice purchase, again.

I'm not fan of 90's and sharp turns with anything basically, from coax to air intakes, exhaust as well as fluids.

I guess if you did indeed want to add an inline filter, now would be the time. I believe the braintrust thought it best to just stick with the screen "filter" on our older trucks...

I know when I added a remote oil filter on another ride I actually took into account the the volume of the plumbing, routing and filter size itself and chose accordingly such that the total volume would be something like exactly 6 or 7 quarts.

I believe you already receive ATF temps through your OBII (not all 3rd gens do I believe), otherwise I'd see an opportunity here for you...

Enjoy your wrenching!

Thanks Tony

I'm gonna keep it simple to start, I usually find a way to make things complicated, so less is more.

On my trans, I'm gonna source a 4WD pan for more fluid volume overall, and I imagine the cooler and lines with add some volune too, so we shall see. Even tho I bought magnafine filter, I am not installing it yet; baby steps

I'd like to do a remote oil filter soon and expect that will add at least a half quart in volune, so I'll be at an even 6 qts on an oil and filter change. Not sure about an oil cooler at this time.

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