Transmission Fluid Change procedure

[CutthroatSlam]

How to make a fluid transfer pump

1 gallon pump sprayer ($10 Home Depot)
10 ft 1/4”id x 3/8”od clear vinyl tubing ($3.25 Home Depot)
1/4”x1/4” or 3/8”x3/8” mini ball valve with barb ends. ($12 for two on Amazon)
Optional: hose clamps or zip ties for added security at high pressure.

Remove original tubing from sprayer and replace with the clear tubing.
Cut tubing to desired length. I made mine long enough reach without the need to drag it under the truck.
Add the ball valve to the end.
Cut additional length of tubing to reach from ball valve into fill hole securely.
Done.
If you want to establish a baseline level in your pump, fill it with a qt of your desired fluid and pump it back into the original container to see how much stays in the pump. It’s usually only a few ounces.
Pics on this thread.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/117482-front-rear-diff-fluid-change-12.html#post3522444

I used this for the transmission flush. Used the old fluid to flush out the residual differential oil first, then filled with new ATF fluid.

 

[DougR]

What app is this?

See Obdlink(R) App - The Data You Need From Your Car And Our Scan Tools . See also post #57 above.

 

[1000MPH]

Ha ha, it literally switched to D as I was hitting send.

I added an auxiliary trans cooler in line with the radiator this weekend and here are a couple things that I found with mine. I had Toyota do a transmission flush when I first got the car a couple years ago. So when they did that they must’ve switched up lines because I had the blue line run into a pink back to a blue so make sure you don’t solely go on color. I felt which one was hotter than follow the other one out of the radiator back to the transmission.

Somebody else mentioned to use brake cleaner to clean out the check valve. When I first put in the 5 mm I could feel it starting to strip I sprayed it down and cleaned it out with a tiny flat head eye glass screwdriver then tapped the hex in with a hammer. No issues.

From coldstart it took about 32 minutes and check temp mode to get up to temperature to pull a check valve. Based on what I put in and what came out, I think I needed about half a quart maybe a little less of trans fluid. I used to Hayden 679 cooler.

Also I bought extra hose, and I ran one from the radiator to the trans cooler, and the other from the trans cooler to the transmission hard line. I bypassed the metal tubing that goes up and then back down, hopefully that makes sense.

Thank you to everyone for all the videos and posts and comments on this topic, took a little more time than I thought but it all made sense in the end.It’s been a total of 3 1/2 hours, with two runs to the auto parts store.


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Do you have any pics of your setup? I’m surprised the cooler doesn’t come with everything you need to install it.

 

[MyFirstRunner]

I think it came with everything needed but only came with 4 or 5 feet of hose so you may have to be creative. I just bought another 4.5 ft from O’Reilleys because it made it much easier to install. I could tap into both lines from the same area on the bottom of the car.

No pics, sorry. I attached the cooler to the ac condenser like most do and ran the tirs through the radiator to secure. I installed it on its side with the inlet and outlet facing the passenger side. The line from the radiator went in the bottom fitting the the line from the top fitting went back to the trans.


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[DurangoMax]

Transmission Flush

90K and did a full flush using the method I read elsewhere on the forum of tapping into the outlet line from the radiator (royal PIA to get to that clamp...) and running out 2 quarts at a time after draining the pan and refilling. I used a Slippery Pete hand pump and that worked but next time will get a tank sprayer and go that route - or I will tap into the return line and fill with a funnel...overall not a difficult job - except for that damn clamp

 

[Mack1611]

Just changed my fluid by both draining and filling through the return line which I accessed behind the right front tire. Used a $5 pump from Harbor Freight to add the fluid. It was a quick and easy job with little mess.

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[1000MPH]

Car Car Nut is recommending against this in his new vid. Single drain and fill only, so we’re both screwed.

 

[8000m]

Car Car Nut is recommending against this in his new vid. Single drain and fill only, so we’re both screwed.

Good video. Of course I just ordered 14 qts of WS…

Maybe I'll change six quarts and save the rest for my mom's RAV4.

 

[1000MPH]

Doing my second transmission service today. 141,143 miles. Approx 30k and 4 years after my last one.
I drained from the check plug first then the drain, not sure why. A little less than last time so far but I’m leaving it to drain for awhile.
Fluid looks very good. I’ve been monitoring transmission temps since I got a ScanGauge and have been using 4th gear a lot more on hills. Max Torque Converter temps I see peak at 213° and maybe once hit 216° IIRC. Pan temps are always below 200°.

My floor is level, my frame is level, but the pan is significantly tilted down towards the front. I ended up jacking the front end to get another pint or so. I will do the final level check on level ground.

Edit! After checking my previous post, I drained the same amount of fluid this time around, a little under 3.5qts.

 

[1000MPH]

Refilling and level set went smoothly. I pulled out just shy of 3-1/2qts so I put in the same and 4-5oz extra. With ScanGauge, I just drove around the neighborhood until I reached 104° and when I started the check I was at 105°. Got about 4-5oz back out and I had enough time to put a new gasket on the check bolt. Ambient temp affects how long it takes to warm up and how long you have before it gets above 113°. Last time I did it in hot summer and had to wait for it to cool down because I needed to add 1/2qt and check again.

 

[DougR]

Car Car Nut is recommending against this in his new vid. Single drain and fill only, so weÂ’re both screwed.

Yes, Car Care Nut recommended drain and fill beginning at time 7:54 in this video posted a year ago for those who want to view it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJr30r6RRgw&t=256s

I broke his rules 30,000 miles ago when I exchanged 12 quarts and replaced with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Furthermore, I'm doubtful about his reasoning (beginning at time 7:00) to maintain a "delicate balance" of debris in the fluid to help clutch engagement as the clutch material ages and wears down.

 

[1000MPH]

$15.07/qt for WS-ATF at the discount dealer I used to buy from. I got three cases for $7.50/qt a few years ago. I might switch to Maxlife down the road.

 

[AMLOR]

when the trannty fluid level port / plug is off and engine is off this will not hold the amount you drained out ..

many have done this MY way .. you measure what you drained out then you put in the new fluid the same amount .. the fluid level hole in place .. then start engine open level hole and when it gets to 110 f range add fluid till it comes out or plug fill hole if fluid drains out with what you added ..

this is not gonna do any damage as the fluid you removed is the same amount you put in, that is the safe way rather fill the tranny to the level hole with the engine off ..

engine off a good amount for fluid drains back into the pan and will be well above the fluid level port ..

you all do it your way good luck ..IMO my way much easier ..less mess.

This is the method I use. ^^^^

Using the drain plug, you will get about 3 quarts out. drain it into a MEASURED container.
IF you drop the pan to replace the filter, you will get closer to 5+ quarts.
Reinstall the pan, AND the drain plug.
Add the amount of fluid that drained into your measured container.
Start the engine and let the fluid circulate and warm to about 109 degrees.
open the check plug and let it drain until it just drips. Reinstall check plug.
DONE

As catrains said this is accurate, easy and less messy. works great!
Amlor

 

[FastEvan47]

Sorry, this is my first time posting and this is probably a really dumb question.. I have the OBDLink MX+ and I’ve found and set up trans pan and converter temperature. Do I still have to put the transmission into the service mode jumping pins 4 & 13? I didn’t think so, right?

 

[FastEvan47]

Sorry, this is my first time posting and this is probably a really dumb question.. I have the OBDLink MX+ and I’ve found and set up trans pan and converter temperature. Do I still have to put the transmission into the service mode jumping pins 4 & 13? I didn’t think so, right?

I just went with putting a paperclip between pins 4 & 13, then I knew the temp was right when the "D" was on the cluster and it was in the "service mode." I followed the trans check procedure. Got a little concerned how much came out after getting up to temp, but it ended up good. I measured the oil that came out as much as possible and added that much back in (cold). After the procedure, I drove it around with the OBDLink plugged in and trans pan never got over 140°F. TC got up around 170°F, but came back down, like normal.

 

[Bmnorm2]

Sorry, this is my first time posting and this is probably a really dumb question.. I have the OBDLink MX+ and I’ve found and set up trans pan and converter temperature. Do I still have to put the transmission into the service mode jumping pins 4 & 13? I didn’t think so, right?

You are correct.

When ready, start her up, pull up app in your phone and connect, go to where you can see the trans temps. When you hit the desired temp, crack the overflow.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

I have a 2014 and a 2023 and have tried jumping #4 and #13 on the OBDII plug and have never even seen an ATF Oil Temp light.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

Car Car Nut is recommending against this in his new vid. Single drain and fill only, so we’re both screwed.

Nope, Car Care Nut recommends a full fluid exchange every 60K.

 

[1000MPH]

Was referring to this vid…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=341&si=1qKGQRkFXXLkf1uE&v=Imafmy3Ycew&feature=youtu.be

 

[maxcs18]

I've owned my 2003 V8 4Runner for a year now, and I looked back at the service records the previous owner gave me. The last recorded transmission service was at 43000. The car currently has 215000. I've had issues with the rpms jumping to 3000 when I brake, and what seems to be shifting getting stuck when accelerating. The rpms get stuck at 2000 and don't seem to shift up. When braking, the rpms jump to 3000, and I have to tap the brake or gas to get it to downshift. Should I do a drain and fill? Or multiple drains and fills. I've heard that once it has symptoms (I'm assuming my symptoms are transmission-related, but I'm taking it to the shop this week), you shouldn't change the fluid. Any advice is appreciated