Tundra brake upgrade questions

did you look at the two rotor side by side... there is a massive difference in the thickness of the two the tundra rotors are much thicker thats why we do this upgrade!
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The additional mass/weight of the Tundra rotors adds means there will be far less heat related issues which are thought to be the main cause of the stock sized 4Runner rotors warp leading to vibrations. Warping is actaully pretty difficult to do in my opinion. Improper bedding, pad material, quality of rotors plays a significant factor as well. Sometimes vibrations come from non-uniform pad deposits and a simple bed in procedure or more aggressive pads will cure it.
 
Becuase the stock rotors were designed for the tacoma, which weighs less. With a 4runner, the brake rotors have to soak up more heat on each stop than a tacoma would. Becuase these rotors are so thin, they cannot dissipate that extra heat well enough and get too hot and become warped.

4runners should have had tundra rotors from the start.

Or, if we want to stir up an old debate, it's brake pad deposition at high temps, not warping. But the end result w. Tundra rotors is the same. (Edit: binhsterbinh and I are on the same thought.)

I was actually looking at keeping the 4Runner caliper and just upgrading the rotor, but the 4Runner caliper has a slot in it that is just ever-so-slightly narrower than the Tundra rotor. "You shall not pass!"
 
Question. Since this is a larger caliper, how is the brake bias? No need to upgrade the brake master to a bigger one or even use a brake bias valve?
 
How do 231's affect the ATRAC?

I have a 2001 with the ATRAC system on it (4 channel ABS that uses the ABS system to make the open differentials act like limited slip diffs)

I plan to do the Tundra 231 upgrade in the future when I need new brakes and I want to know if anyone has any ideas or opinions on how the 231's will affect the ATRAC? I'm thinking it will make it work better but maybe not?

Does anybody have any experiences with this or just ideas about how that might work out ?

I am a Toyota Tech for the last 14 years that does not work on Toyotas or any vehicles. (except my Own)
 
Tundra Brake Upgrade

I'm a noobie on here, but I want to do the Tundra brake upgrade, and I've read through several of the write ups. My main question is if I have 15" stock wheels I read that I can't get the 231mm, but will the 199mm fit ok? Thanks for any advice or info.
 
I'm a noobie on here, but I want to do the Tundra brake upgrade, and I've read through several of the write ups. My main question is if I have 15" stock wheels I read that I can't get the 231mm, but will the 199mm fit ok? Thanks for any advice or info.

The main write-ups mention that...

Actually there is a new one that is top notch. It should be on the first couple pages for you. It's by bigfishallday. It will probably answer all your questions.
 
Yeah the brake lines are the 2nd indication. When I installed my driver caliper, I had bent the brake line on accident while trying to suspend the old caliper on a bucket. With that in mind, I ended up just slightly bending the brake line to plug it into the new incorrect side Tundra caliper. It doesn't take much of a bend to do either whether bent or not. I then actually realized the potential of mixing it up and tried to switch it back to how it should have been installed. Since I bent the line already, of course the correct one didn't fit either, so I went back to doing it wrong...

Long story short, I made a couple huge mistakes that caused a few days of work troubleshooting.

If your bleeder is on top and you have issues, maybe try activating the ABS on loose gravel and bleeding the whole system again. You might want to bleed rear before that to see what happens and go from there. Also, I hear that if the E-brake is not tightened on the drums in the rear, it'll take more pedal distance to fully engage the brakes. 5-6 clicks on the E-brake handle should be really tight and hold the car in place.

thank you for posting this needs to be addressed more often as i did the same thing.luckly now that i read this i only have to replace one bent to he11 brake line :redbrick:and want be scratching my head when done and it wont bleed out correctly
 
16" 3 spoke

98 with 3 spoke doing 231 swap
So not many are wanting to grind on there wheels.well i will let u know how it goes. If i mess up then o well new rims.
 
98 with 3 spoke doing 231 swap
So not many are wanting to grind on there wheels.well i will let u know how it goes. If i mess up then o well new rims.

I grinded 2 of my wheels with a 4.5" Dewalt angle grinder and rocked that for a few months. Since the tire already had poor balancing to begin with, I can't attest to the balancing issues that may occur. I ended up finding powder coated 5 star Limited wheels before having a chance to rebalance or grind my rear wheels as well.

I talked to Seattle Wheel Service who specializes in bent rim repair, curb rash repair and the works. They told me that grinding near the hub makes very little impact on the wheel balance. He assured me I'd have no problem using those wheels in the future. They are the only guys I trust with doing a proper tire balance.

On another note, if you get the the BrakeBest brand of rotors from Oreilly Auto for $55 a piece, you may very well end up with Raybestos Advance rotors which are usually $75-80 each elsewhere. That's what I ended up with and they come with a 2 year replacement warranty. They're doing some rebranding and that's what got. The box says Raybestos and everything.
 
Done with upgrade and grinding and no major issues. I had to grind the calipers a little because i was tired of grinding wheels. But have wheeled it and checked for scrubbing since i painted the wheels right after and no issues.
 

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