Tyler James Inc's Ultimate '01 SR5

[pavelvoivoda]

Man; I was set on the simplicity of the j-shift, but now you have me re-thinking it.

haha Sorry that I got you thinking again!

If you do decide on doing this, let me know and I will dig out the part numbers of the parts that you need in order to make this job appear stock made.

I did mine a while back and plan one doing in on another 4Runner soon, and will post a write up once done.

I am happy how it turned out and here are some pics of both levers, and the CDL button on the dash and the dash lights.

 

[rkntoy]

Haha thanks Steve [emoji5]
I was looking, and I'm surprised Marlin doesn't make RF1A adapters for us. It seemed a little confusing on Inchworm's site, but I think they make the adapters that would work. If I remember right, they were only listed for use on Tacoma. Should be the same for our application though.
I was pretty active on Pirate- 10yrs or so ago- when the big blowout with MC/TG happened, and I chose to not buy any TG parts at that point. Only time I slipped was when I did the 3.4 in my 2nd gen runner- the power steering lines were in stock locally at my buddy's shop, and- of course- the price couldn't be beat. It's just my own personal deal. Maybe I need to get over it.

Too funny. I was on Pirates a lot back then too. Working with product development companies gave me some opinions that were not really welcome. MC wasn't the first to come up with mating t-cases together.

I looked at using the MC stuff when I did mine (along with TG and Inchworm) but they were out of adapters, out of 4.7 gears, only sold totally assembled units ("why would we sell kits when we can get more for complete units?") and could not say when they would have things back in stock.

Hoping to test my cases out wheeling this weekend before heading to McGrew Trail for Fathers Day. 209:1 feels a lot lower than when I just had 112:1.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

If you do decide on doing this, let me know and I will dig out the part numbers of the parts that you need in order to make this job appear stock made.

Hey, thanks a lot for the offer, and for the pictures. What do you mean the parts needed to make it appear stock? Will the multi-mode not bolt up and- work properly- behind the manual without issue? I was under the understanding the multi-mode wasn't incorporated into the auto trans. That said, if VSC/TRAC isn't functioning, maybe that would affect the multi-mode capabilities...
Why in the world do you have the auto shift lever on the manual shifter?!

MC wasn't the first to come up with mating t-cases together.
I Hoping to test my cases out wheeling this weekend before heading to McGrew Trail for Fathers Day. 209:1 feels a lot lower than when I just had 112:1.

Oh I know. It wasn't as much about any stolen designs as it was about the materials being used, and where their products were being manufactured. But I don't wanna rabbit hole about that here. If it was 5% of the disaster here as it was on Pirate, my thread would still be a disaster [emoji23]
Looking forward to hearing how awesome the dual cases are out on the trails! Can't wait till I can make it back out there again [emoji1598]

What was the date stamped on the thermostat that you pulled out?

The only numbers I can see stamped can be seen in the pics above. Not sure how to interpret that if it's a mfg date.

Yesterday was a rough one [emoji30][emoji849]
I chose to replace the cam seals, but don't have a seal puller. Tried pulling it without one, and am now just hoping I didn't fck up the sealing surface of my right cam. The 1/4" wobble would have worked awesome to pull the belt tensioner if it didn't snap before breaking the bolt loose. So, now I'm waiting on a seal puller to show up, praying I didn't fck up my cam, and looking forward to working on it tomorrow in the rain [emoji23] Oh well. I also got a front crank seal, but don't have a puller to get the t-belt pulley off the crank, so maybe I'll skip that.

 

[phattyduck]

The only numbers I can see stamped can be seen in the pics above. Not sure how to interpret that if it's a mfg date.

Yesterday was a rough one [emoji30][emoji849]
I chose to replace the cam seals, but don't have a seal puller. Tried pulling it without one, and am now just hoping I didn't fck up the sealing surface of my right cam. The 1/4" wobble would have worked awesome to pull the belt tensioner if it didn't snap before breaking the bolt loose. So, now I'm waiting on a seal puller to show up, praying I didn't fck up my cam, and looking forward to working on it tomorrow in the rain [emoji23] Oh well. I also got a front crank seal, but don't have a puller to get the t-belt pulley off the crank, so maybe I'll skip that.

The new t-stat was mfg'd in Feb of 2017 (17 2), if I'm reading it correctly (squinted a bit harder this time), the last one was mfg'd in Jan 2014... (14 1 or is it 10 1 ?) The first two digits are the year, the second is the month.

If the seal sealing surface on the cam is fubar'd, you can get a 'repair sleeve' so don't freak out too much:
National 99147 - Redi-Sleeve | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Also, you should be able to 'rock' the timing belt cam gear off the crank. It isn't pressed on or anything, but it does take some effort/time to get it off there by hand. Of course, it could be seized on there...

-Charlie

 

[pavelvoivoda]

Hey, thanks a lot for the offer, and for the pictures. What do you mean the parts needed to make it appear stock? Will the multi-mode not bolt up and- work properly- behind the manual without issue? I was under the understanding the multi-mode wasn't incorporated into the auto trans. That said, if VSC/TRAC isn't functioning, maybe that would affect the multi-mode capabilities...
Why in the world do you have the auto shift lever on the manual shifter?!

Hehe I bolted the handle from the auto transm to the lever of the manual, as I use the OD button as a PTT for my ham radio, as a hands free, which is actually very comfortable. The mic is right under the sun visor.

The transfer will fit the R150f but its shifter originaly is bolted onto the transmission and the two shafts of the single mode Jshifter that protrude from the transfer enter the transmission to appear in the rear opening assuming that your transmission has the dual opening extension for two levers. This has to be done the same way when you bolt the multimode case to the R150f, othewise if you keep the the transfer lever bolted to the transfer opening, it will be another 4-6 inches aft of the manual lever in the cab where your cup holder is located.

The difference comes from the fact the the auto transmission is shorter than the manual one. Or so i remember.

I will get back to about VSC and send you pictures on sunday, as I am not near the drivetrain right now.

 

[anniesball72]

Hey, thanks a lot for the offer, and for the pictures. What do you mean the parts needed to make it appear stock? Will the multi-mode not bolt up and- work properly- behind the manual without issue? I was under the understanding the multi-mode wasn't incorporated into the auto trans. That said, if VSC/TRAC isn't functioning, maybe that would affect the multi-mode capabilities...

My '02 retained the multi-mode t-case with the M/T R150 swapped in. I had to trim the opening in the pan to remove the 1" wide piece from either side. I then swapped my Multi-mode case lever from the left to the right side by reversing the linkage. My rear drive shaft is stock with 3" lift and front had to be shortened a hair. All bolting locations are also stock.

My interior looks totally stock.

 

[rkntoy]

Looking forward to hearing how awesome the dual cases are out on the trails! Can't wait till I can make it back out there again [emoji1598]

You need to get that thing together and make it this way. Or meet up with us at the PNW Trail Jamboree in Naches WA. Carson and I are both taking our rigs.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]
Wow Charlie- your eyes are actually incredible. I didn't realize how unclear that pic was, but you nailed the date! It is 14 1 [emoji1360]

Thanks for the sleeve info too- I've never heard about those. Hopefully I won't have to use one. I guess I won't know until it's too late anyway- unless it's obviously gouged. I guess I'll take another shot at the TB crank pulley, but I feel like there isn't much place to pry without putting the- whatever those teeth are called- at risk of bending/breaking. Thanks again for your advice and insight. [MENTION=111373]pavelvoivoda[/MENTION]
That's strange. It sounds like you're saying your R150 had a forward shift j-shift case behind it. None of the Tacoma/4Runner cases I've seen are forward shift. Both my '99 J-Shift and '01 Multi are top shift. I don't think I'll have to convert anything.
Thanks again for more good info [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] I'm really relieved to hear everything went together smoothly and your driveshaft even worked! That's great to hear. [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] without me saying anything- my wife just mentioned to me tonight that we're overdue for a Bend trip!
I don't see why I wouldn't be able to have her driving this weekend. Flywheel bolts and seal puller are coming tomorrow, then I'm freaking GOING HARD on getting it going. Rad and a hard line bracket come Monday, so I might wait till then, just so I'm not jacking around with radiator swapping, coolant, and clutch bleeding twice.
I slipped up, and went with other-than-OEM on a couple things. I'm not sweatin it.

 

[pavelvoivoda]

That's strange. It sounds like you're saying your R150 had a forward shift j-shift case behind it. None of the Tacoma/4Runner cases I've seen are forward shift. Both my '99 J-Shift and '01 Multi are top shift. I don't think I'll have to convert anything.

There is no need to convert anything.
My original transfer was the regular single mode J shift case. I replaced it with the multi mode straight shift case.

There are two extension housings for the R150 transmission. One has two openings instead of one which you can see in the pictures. I believe they are for 4wd and 2wd configurations.

In my rig, the lever opening on the original transfer case had a cover on it and the transfer shift lever was bolted onto the extension housing of the transmission right behind the gear lever.

I installed my new transfer case without cutting the pan an inch or so,as [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] mentioned in his post. I believe he was talking about lengthening the hole where the two shift levers enter the cab.

In fact, [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] can you show me a photo of how the two shift levers are positioned on your 4Runner? I want to see what is the location of both. And what engine you have.
Im trying to figure out if engine lengths make a difference in the levers position.
No need to take apart anything, just how they sit in the cab

:biggrin2:

 

[anniesball72]

There is no need to convert anything.
My original transfer was the regular single mode J shift case. I replaced it with the multi mode straight shift case.

There are two extension housings for the R150 transmission. One has two openings instead of one which you can see in the pictures. I believe they are for 4wd and 2wd configurations.

In my rig, the lever opening on the original transfer case had a cover on it and the transfer shift lever was bolted onto the extension housing of the transmission right behind the gear lever.

I installed my new transfer case without cutting the pan an inch or so,as [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] mentioned in his post. I believe he was talking about lengthening the hole where the two shift levers enter the cab.

In fact, [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] can you show me a photo of how the two shift levers are positioned on your 4Runner? I want to see what is the location of both. And what engine you have.
Im trying to figure out if engine lengths make a difference in the levers position.
No need to take apart anything, just how they sit in the cab

:biggrin2:

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Timing belt done [emoji1373]
Super easy job if you either don't do the cam seals, or if you have the right tool to do the cam seals [emoji23]
Chubbed up a little when the wife sent me this pic at work today-

Flywheels bolts, master cly gasket and nuts, slave cyl bolts, pedal bushing/pin/clip, slave hardline, flex line, and a new cluster lens! Gonna feel like I'm driving a new rig with that clear lens.

New master installed with the new gasket and nuts-

Annoyed that the outlet is on the side vs the top, but oh well. At least it's a quality Aisin part.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=111373]pavelvoivoda[/MENTION]
I'm not sure what all you have going on, and what you started with, but the first picture you posted is an earlier R150, as the slave cylinder is on the opposite side. [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] only cut his opening because he swapped from an auto to a manual, and the auto floor pan has a much different opening than the factory manual rigs.
ANYWAY, back to mine!
Progress tonight was good [emoji1373]

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=48999]Tyler[/MENTION]jamesinc, got a good laugh out of the teaser pic's your wife sent, she knew it would make for a long day for you! Damn I never get those kind of pic's.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Hey! Rad wasn't supposed to be here till Monday. That was cool to see on the porch when I got home! It's definitely a cheap piece of crap. I'd like to replace it with a quality unit sooner than later.

It was hard for me to use a cut off wheel INSIDE my 4Runner, but I hid under a blanket while I cut the shifter hole out [emoji23]

There are 3 bellhousing, and one starter bolt that need to be longer for the R150. Gotta get those in the AM.
Since I decided to keep the multi-mode, I decided to do more cluster swapping. I went back to the '01 bezel to get the 4WD/xfer case lock indicators back. That meant I no longer had the PRND2L blanked, and I had to deal with that. I pulled the lens with the letters off, and pulled the backing off. Then I used electrical tape on the back of the backing to eliminate any bleed through. Used the PRND2L lens as a spacer, and put the backing up front. Looks factory [emoji1360][emoji1598]
It was also obvious the PO cleaned the cluster lens with sand paper- so I got a new one.
Old, and with the '99 manual bezel-

Finished with new lens! Now no PRND2L-

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Starts and runs great! [emoji322][emoji1598][emoji1373]

 

[4Reak Show]

So f-ing cool man. Good stuff and congrats

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Short rad in, shroud cut down 4".

Yes; I am working in the rain [emoji58]

 

[Unner]

I did my timing belt in the rain, at least it wasn't hot... Love how fast this is going and how well it's coming along!

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I did my timing belt in the rain, at least it wasn't hot... Love how fast this is going and how well it's coming along!

So f-ing cool man. Good stuff and congrats

Thank you both! I'm super excited to get it going. So is my wife- and not just because she's been having to take me to work [emoji23] It's been lame not being able to take our boys places in the last month or so too. I didn't wanna have to clean the '97 a bunch of times when I had it for sale, so I said no kiddos(4 legs) anymore in there!
Also- for anyone wanting to run the short rad- I found the perfect hose-

Its not a Gates, but the Gates cross-reference number is 21025. I had to cut about 2" off the long side, and it was a perfect fit. Next to the stock lower hose-

The parts store I went to didn't have a 4 cyl Tacoma lower hose, so maybe that would even work. I'm just assuming the 4 cyl water inlet is in a different location.
The M/T uses 3 longer bellhousing bolts than the auto, so I ordered those this afternoon. No more expensive than the hardware store, so might as well get OEM [emoji1360] Those will be in Tues. Gonna go try to get my wiring done and xfer case thrown in there.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Got a break for the rain, and hucked my big ass xfer case up in that *****. Multi mode shifter lookin whack-

Took about 1.5" outta the shaft, and welded it back up-

Putting the center console back in, I quickly realized the console mounts to the auto shifter bracket.

Manual rigs must have some kind of little brackets there. I'll just hack the back part of the shifter bracket off.