URD 7th injector tuning maps

[05SVRACER]

Check engine light popped on last night with a P0420 code. That answers the no cat question, time to order the rear o2 emulator.

I have done quite a bit of research since I posted about the closed loop question, maybe I'm ignorant, but I'm still confused.


From what I understand you can't add much fuel to closed loop since the ECU will fight it. So, is the only thing to do is pull timing? Also, with closed loop enrichment, it starts at 4psi? Should that be lowered? Any documents anyone can point me toward to understand this better?

Open loop is great, just want to figure out how to fix closed loop HL/LR so I can put the smaller pulley on and tune this thing properly...:redbrick:

 

[paddlenbike]

From what I understand you can't add much fuel to closed loop since the ECU will fight it. So, is the only thing to do is pull timing? Also, with closed loop enrichment, it starts at 4psi? Should that be lowered? Any documents anyone can point me toward to understand this better?

True, you are mostly tuning open loop. You do have a little control over closed loop via the "boost overpressure" cell in the software that richens the fuel mixture in closed loop above a certain boost point. I think the default is 3 psi, but I'm not sure on that. I see no reason to richen it more than it already does, but you can lower that set point.

Timing is not open/closed loop specific, so timing can be pulled any time.

 

[05SVRACER]

OK thank you. So, with that being said. Doesn't the urd pcu just change the range that the stock ecu's timing? If under closed loop the knock sensors don't work til over 3k, how does that help?

 

[paddlenbike]

OK thank you. So, with that being said. Doesn't the urd pcu just change the range that the stock ecu's timing? If under closed loop the knock sensors don't work til over 3k, how does that help?

The URD ECU lies to the Toyota ECU about what the timing is. If you have 4 degrees of timing retard dialed in, it's lying to the Toyota ECU by 4 degrees. The timing retard is helping to prevent ping since the knock sensor's are not listening below 3000 RPMs.

 

[05SVRACER]

OK, cool. Did you end up pulling timing anywhere? Do you have the 2.2 on now? I read somewhere that the Manual trans need an addl 10% across the board as a start...dunno if I should start pulling more timing, or make the boost enrichment come in sooner...

 

[paddlenbike]

I have the original 2.37" pulley. And yes, I am pulling more timing than the preloaded maps, up to 5.8 degrees at max boost (7 psi in my case). As for fueling, I am basically using the URD preloaded map but have added more fueling in the higher RPMs. Hope that helps.

Did you just install the URD 7th? I would run with the preloaded maps and add more retard and fueling only as you find necessary. It might take a bit of driving before you figure out what areas need additional tuning.

 

[05SVRACER]

How did you determine where and how much timing to pull...solely on audible ping? I do have the URD 7th setup on the stock pulley right now. Put the smaller one on and ended up taking it off, too much detonation under partial throttle/low rpm for my liking. Still does it a bit with the smaller pulley, not bad though. Going to start datalogging and playing with both Saturday. From reading the gauge though, it looks a bit too rich as it stands right now until around 5k like you were saying. Then it's 12.4-12.7 ish. Need hard data to really determine.

Strangely it pulls harder under halfish throttle than it does at WOT currently. Maybe my butt dyno is off though....

 

[paddlenbike]

How did you determine where and how much timing to pull...solely on audible ping?

Yes, when I heard pinging I would note the approximate RPM and add more retard in that area. But of course I didn't raise just that cell, I smoothed all the cells around it.

I think this is an old map, but it's what I was running at one point in time. Note the smoothing between rows and columns, similar to how URD's preloaded map looked.

My boost never gets over 7 psi, so all the columns past that are just for safety.

 

[05SVRACER]

Alright, thanks again for your help man. I'll report back this weekend with results

 

[isu2014]

OP, what does your current tune look like? I can't get rid of ping around 1800-2300 rpm. I added fuel down there, played with timing, and nothing works. It always pings. I also can't get to 9.5psi of boost like I hit before on one of my old tunes. I get about 7psi on the 2.2" pulley. I'm running the AIC and AFR calibrators, deck plate mod, headers, cat delete, and dumped 2.5" exhaust.

 

[05SVRACER]

Installed the Smaller pulley and started playing with the tune yesterday. Its leaning out to mid-high 1200s in the upper range. Playing with adding fuel to that to get my open loop good then play with pulling timing for the lower range spark knock.

The Obdwiz software that came with my usb obd2 connector wont show open vs closed loop though. What program are you guys using. Cant seem to find a copy of the br3 diagnose software gadget mentions on the tune guide.

What afr should be present when closed loop boost enrichment is active? Im still staying in the 14s. Not sure if its working, in the guide gadget mentions its only on older models that it comes into play, ones that have a standard o2 vs a air/fuel sensor. suggestions to check it and any way to add fuel to it?

 

[kigmob]

Installed the Smaller pulley and started playing with the tune yesterday. Its leaning out to mid-high 1200s in the upper range. Playing with adding fuel to that to get my open loop good then play with pulling timing for the lower range spark knock.

The Obdwiz software that came with my usb obd2 connector wont show open vs closed loop though. What program are you guys using. Cant seem to find a copy of the br3 diagnose software gadget mentions on the tune guide.

What afr should be present when closed loop boost enrichment is active? Im still staying in the 14s. Not sure if its working, in the guide gadget mentions its only on older models that it comes into play, ones that have a standard o2 vs a air/fuel sensor. suggestions to check it and any way to add fuel to it?

Check what your overpressure setting is in the "output settings" of the R4 software. Mine came preset at like 3 psi but I moved it down to 2 psi. When I hit 2 psi boost in closed loop, my afr drops to around 13.5-13.8 and continuously drops as boost increases.

 

[richmeyer]

Check what your overpressure setting is in the "output settings" of the R4 software. Mine came preset at like 3 psi but I moved it down to 2 psi. When I hit 2 psi boost in closed loop, my afr drops to around 13.5-13.8 and continuously drops as boost increases.

Bringing this one back to the top. I'm getting what I'll call a "low throttle, low boost" leaning out with my 7th injector kit. It seems to happen mostly when I head up into the mountains (I live at sea level) but I can coax it out occasionally around town.

Pretty much whats happening is at freeway speeds around 2k RPM, I roll into the throttle and as soon as i get into boost (pretty much right away), my AFR goes WAY lean (16-18:1), the truck hesitates, then seems to get fuel, and keeps on accelerating. I can "drive around it" by putting my foot to the floor and the AFR goes to right around 12:1. Truck seems to drive fine on closed loop with consistent AFRs around 14.7:1

I didnt install the kit, the PO did but Ive had the truck for about a year now and the problem just popped up. I've done a new MAF, TPS, Wideband o2, normal o2, plugs, and wires.

So back to the post I quoted above, does anyone think its a simple case of lowering the overpressure value? Seems like that lowers the point where the 7th injector will start spraying fuel.

Or is there anything else I should be looking for?

Thanks!

 

[kigmob]

Bringing this one back to the top. I'm getting what I'll call a "low throttle, low boost" leaning out with my 7th injector kit. It seems to happen mostly when I head up into the mountains (I live at sea level) but I can coax it out occasionally around town.

Pretty much whats happening is at freeway speeds around 2k RPM, I roll into the throttle and as soon as i get into boost (pretty much right away), my AFR goes WAY lean (16-18:1), the truck hesitates, then seems to get fuel, and keeps on accelerating. I can "drive around it" by putting my foot to the floor and the AFR goes to right around 12:1. Truck seems to drive fine on closed loop with consistent AFRs around 14.7:1

I didnt install the kit, the PO did but Ive had the truck for about a year now and the problem just popped up. I've done a new MAF, TPS, Wideband o2, normal o2, plugs, and wires.

So back to the post I quoted above, does anyone think its a simple case of lowering the overpressure value? Seems like that lowers the point where the 7th injector will start spraying fuel.

Or is there anything else I should be looking for?

Thanks!

Lowering the over pressure value indicates when the closed loop enrichment feature kicks in. What this does is tricks the ECU to think the AFR is 14.7 as it modifies the MAF signal to richen the mixture. This is all done with the primary fuel injectors. The 7th injector doesn't kick on until you tell it to in your fuel map by changing the value in a cell to something other than 0. I am not sure which unit you have, but my unit came with the closed loop enrichment built into it, and the only thing I can change is the over pressure value which tells the unit at what psi it should begin the closed loop enrichment. I cannot adjust how rich it makes the mixture. Some do not have the feature built in and you have to get a separate unit in order to perform closed loop enrichment. URD sells these as AFR calibrators (99+ Toyotas) or O2 sensor calibrators (pre 99 Toyotas). I am not sure when they began shipping the units with the closed loop enrichment built in. Gadget told me that if the part number on the unit end with a "D" then it has the closed loop enrichment feature built in. You may want to check with him to make sure you have it already or if you need to purchase an AFR/O2 calibrator.

If you do have this feature, try lowering the over pressure value. I have mine set a 1 psi. At what exact psi does it stop leaning out?

Also, checking your fuel trims when this happens may help to see whats exactly going on.

And lastly, if you have messed with the over pressure value, make sure you did not change any other setting in the R4 software. It can cause some strange things to happen.

Goodluck.

 

[paddlenbike]

Pretty much whats happening is at freeway speeds around 2k RPM, I roll into the throttle and as soon as i get into boost (pretty much right away), my AFR goes WAY lean (16-18:1), the truck hesitates, then seems to get fuel, and keeps on accelerating. I can "drive around it" by putting my foot to the floor and the AFR goes to right around 12:1. Truck seems to drive fine on closed loop with consistent AFRs around 14.7:1

Something is wrong here, the truck shouldn't do that even if it had no URD kit. I would suspect a MAF problem, but you said it was new, right?

 

[richmeyer]

Something is wrong here, the truck shouldn't do that even if it had no URD kit. I would suspect a MAF problem, but you said it was new, right?

Yup, brand new MAF... Pretty much everything that sends either air or fuel data to the ECU or URD box has been replaced. I'm stumped that this point, the truck has been running okay over the last few weeks but still not right. Might just take it someplace that has experience with URD stuff. I sure as hell dont...

 

[A.Wilson013]

Has it always done this, or just started recently?

Gadget talked about this a bit on his old website which I cannot find on my phone... Try googling "Gadget Free FMU".

 

[richmeyer]

So I took it to a shop that specializes in Toyota performance and they dug into it, found that the box was wired up wrong and some vacuum lines were routed incorrectly. After fixing that, the bad news is that now its running like absolute garbage. No power and still have the lean condition, even without any boost. Its pretty much undriveable. They didnt have time to tune it but said the map installed is really close to the URD baseline map and the truck is going back after the long weekend for more investigation. The next step is to pull the charger off, replace the intake gasket, throttle body gasket, and clean the injectors.

I'm at a total loss right now. They truck was running ok before the work and now its total shit. Pretty frustrated.

On another note, pulled the MAF again (the new one) and its was pretty cruddy already, cleaned it up with some of the MAF cleaning spray. I'm hoping this at least allows the thing to be driveable. Hopes are not high though. At this point, I'm ready to pull the S/C and go back to N/A. Anyone want a 1st Gen S/C setup???

 

[richmeyer]

new development, went to do a hill start and the truck could barely get out of its own way. Zero power, foot to the floor and nothing. Just creeped up the hill, got the truck parked and it would hardly rev. Let it idle for a bit and it seemed to rev better. This is all after a combo of city and highway driving. Seriously stumped. Fack.

 

[8sm]

Don't give up yet.... It all apart of s/c 'd 3rd gen steep learning curve. It's going to take time tweaking and tracing down those ghost issues that pop up. Retrace your vac lines for proper T-fittings and routing, verifying the proper wiring diagram was used and make sure the harness plugs are firmly set in the ECU slot, give them a firm push. (Been there done that)

Its apparent the issue worsened or developed after the shop worked on it.

Could be one bad injector causing the lean out, not disconnecting the battery neg to reset ecu, vac leak or bad wiring diagram.

URD can verify the wiring diagram is correct using your year model as well the serial number on the URD black controller box(ecu).

Hope this helps...... Regards 8sm