URGENT: Looking for a good Write-Up/DIY with pictures to change Rack and Pinion Unit!

[TheFriZ]

Hey guys, the title says it all. I'm starting the job on Installing a brand new, OEM Toyota steering rack in my 1998 4Runner 4x4 (SR5, V6, Auto). I keep looking for a good Write-Up, but everything I find is just for a rack bushing replacement, or a rack guide fix. Im mainly worried about order of operations, I obviously see how the rack comes out.

my main concern is access to the power steering lines, and disconnecting the steering input from the rack... Should I lower it first to do the lines?? etc...

im sure there is a good write-up out there, I just cant seem to find it.

Im also installing New Shocks, front and rear, some rear coil spacers to fix the sag, AND lastly, but certainly not least, Some new OEM Toyota Lower Ball Joints. Any pointers on those items would certainly be appreciated also

Thanks
Brian

 

[Arnezie]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/70884-how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdTMY109hQ0&feature=relmfu
A quick search next time

 

[TheFriZ]

I told you I found the "steering rack guide" write up... I need one to do the whole rack. particularly the power steering lines and the column connection disconnection....
a quick read next time

p.s. videos suck.... spend 30 minutes watching something to find 15 seconds of what you need...

 

[BlazeRunner]

There's nothing particularly difficult about R&R a rack and pinion. Tight fit is about it, remove the lines and linkage before loosening the rack itself, you don't want to bend the lines or anything.

 

[Arnezie]

I told you I found the "steering rack guide" write up... I need one to do the whole rack. particularly the power steering lines and the column connection disconnection....
a quick read next time

p.s. videos suck.... spend 30 minutes watching something to find 15 seconds of what you need...

I did read your post, love the use of fragmented sentences and poor use of punctuation.:yo:

 

[shootmymime]

There's nothing particularly difficult about R&R a rack and pinion. Tight fit is about it, remove the lines and linkage before loosening the rack itself, you don't want to bend the lines or anything.

I told you I found the "steering rack guide" write up... I need one to do the whole rack. particularly the power steering lines and the column connection disconnection....

a quick read next time



p.s. videos suck.... spend 30 minutes watching something to find 15 seconds of what you need...

The rack is easy. As said.

I think your over stressing the job.
The worst part is trying to get the vertical bolt out from under the bell housing of the transmission.

I would recommend putting some of your wife's white nail polish on the tie rod ends shaft and nuts to properly realign your front end after you do the swap.

The steering shaft is just 1 bolt on the lower part of the slip joke or joint. The lines are easy just take them off. You will drip some fluid so have a small bucket and rags handy.

There are 3 bolts and 1 nut holding the rack on I believe.

I'm not sure how you plan to take the tie rod ends off via the rack or ball joint side. If you do the ball joint side. Know that there will be some swearing and use of a big steel hammer as you smack the side of the casing really hard to drop that outer tie rod out of the socket. Or you might need to rent a press from a parts store.

With the other side you can take it off from the inner tie rods but then again alignment it a bit harder afterwords.

It's not a terrible job. I think it took me like 3 hours.
Don't forget to add fluid afterwords. After everything it tight start the truck and let it run for a bit to get that air out of the lines. After a few min cycle the steering lock to lock (left and right) and periodically check the fluid and add as needed.

You can do it.

 

[COShadow]

Flush the steering system before you remove the old rack. Then fill up and bleed after putting the new rack on.

 

[TheFriZ]

There's nothing particularly difficult about R&R a rack and pinion. Tight fit is about it, remove the lines and linkage before loosening the rack itself, you don't want to bend the lines or anything.

THIS is what I had been curious about. Access to the Power Steering lines is so tight and they look a bit gnarly; I was wondering if I would be able to get better access if I slightly lowered the rack, but you answered that question for me. Thanks man! I had to pause the job today anyway, I had to run and grab a 22mm, 6pt socket.

I did read your post, love the use of fragmented sentences and poor use of punctuation.:yo:

Well, when you're elbow deep in grease trying to use a smart phone, shit happens; having just completed 8 years of secondary education and receiving a PhD, I don't really care if my grammar is to "your" satisfaction or not. Internet warriors...:crazy:

The rack is easy. As said.

I think your over stressing the job.
The worst part is trying to get the vertical bolt out from under the bell housing of the transmission.

I would recommend putting some of your wife's white nail polish on the tie rod ends shaft and nuts to properly realign your front end after you do the swap.

The steering shaft is just 1 bolt on the lower part of the slip joke or joint. The lines are easy just take them off. You will drip some fluid so have a small bucket and rags handy.

There are 3 bolts and 1 nut holding the rack on I believe.

I'm not sure how you plan to take the tie rod ends off via the rack or ball joint side. If you do the ball joint side. Know that there will be some swearing and use of a big steel hammer as you smack the side of the casing really hard to drop that outer tie rod out of the socket. Or you might need to rent a press from a parts store.

With the other side you can take it off from the inner tie rods but then again alignment it a bit harder afterwords.

It's not a terrible job. I think it took me like 3 hours.
Don't forget to add fluid afterwords. After everything it tight start the truck and let it run for a bit to get that air out of the lines. After a few min cycle the steering lock to lock (left and right) and periodically check the fluid and add as needed.

You can do it.

I wasn't so worried about doing it as I was about trying to make it easier on myself I read a few posts about people breaking their P/S lines, and how costly they are to replace; I wanted to make sure I wouldn't be doing something in an order that would make it harder on myself. I had to run and grab a socket today anyway, so I'm letting those fittings sit overnight with some PB Blaster in hopes that it ensures they break free easily.

OTRE's are off, I took them loose from the knuckle first, and then unthreaded them from the rack. I figured taking them off with the rack would ensure TONS of cussing later... haha I am doing the LBJ's too, so they needed to come off anyway.

Thanks for the tips!!

Flush the steering system before you remove the old rack. Then fill up and bleed after putting the new rack on.

Thanks for the tip! I suppose this just ensures I get rid of the bad stuff in the remaining system before I put the new rack on?

Thanks for the help guys. Now that I have the socket I was missing, everything should go smoothly.

 

[montana_jeepn]

Not sure how far you are from DC, but I will be doing this soon and have done it once before when I replaced my LCA's. I have all the tools so if you get jammed up bring it by.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, I agree that you don't really need a walkthrough, it is a simple process that is a giant PITA to get through.

Personally, I HAD to have the rack loosened to access the pressure line nuts on the rack. It was very tight, and I had alot of rust holding them in there, so I ended up cutting the hose and replacing it.

FYI, I ended up using flare nut wrenches for better grip on the pressure line nuts, I recommend getting a good set if you have any reason to expect they might be corroded on at all. Tight tolerances are necessary to prevent rounding off.

The top rack mount bolt is a giant PITA as was said. I ended up using my 3/8 socket wrench with a longer piece of electrical conduit for leverage. As you back the bolt out, be careful that you don't back the socket wrench right out and into the transmission so that you can no longer pull the socket off the bolt head. You might need to switch to a ratcheting wrench if you still need leverage at that point (pick a set up at HD if you don't have one, they are super useful and only about $20).

Marking your tie rods is fine, but I think you should get an alignment afterwards anyway. The thing to mark is the spline joint on the steering column. You need to put that joint back in perfectly or else you will have trouble centering the wheel and aligning the wheels. Also, measure center carefully on the rack when you put it back in. If you miss by more than maybe 1 or 2 splines, then you will have trouble with the alignment.

 

[TheFriZ]

Not sure how far you are from DC, but I will be doing this soon and have done it once before when I replaced my LCA's. I have all the tools so if you get jammed up bring it by.

Im actually near Virginia Tech, but thanks! I have all the tools I need, my 22mm socket just broke on me... Yay Craftsman (or Yay, 450ft/lb impact )

Yeah, I agree that you don't really need a walkthrough, it is a simple process that is a giant PITA to get through.

Personally, I HAD to have the rack loosened to access the pressure line nuts on the rack. It was very tight, and I had alot of rust holding them in there, so I ended up cutting the hose and replacing it.

FYI, I ended up using flare nut wrenches for better grip on the pressure line nuts, I recommend getting a good set if you have any reason to expect they might be corroded on at all. Tight tolerances are necessary to prevent rounding off.

The top rack mount bolt is a giant PITA as was said. I ended up using my 3/8 socket wrench with a longer piece of electrical conduit for leverage. As you back the bolt out, be careful that you don't back the socket wrench right out and into the transmission so that you can no longer pull the socket off the bolt head. You might need to switch to a ratcheting wrench if you still need leverage at that point (pick a set up at HD if you don't have one, they are super useful and only about $20).

Marking your tie rods is fine, but I think you should get an alignment afterwards anyway. The thing to mark is the spline joint on the steering column. You need to put that joint back in perfectly or else you will have trouble centering the wheel and aligning the wheels. Also, measure center carefully on the rack when you put it back in. If you miss by more than maybe 1 or 2 splines, then you will have trouble with the alignment.

I have some flare wrenches, ill definitely be using them on those lines!!
On lining up the steering wheel and marking the shaft, where exactly are you marking? This is my first time taking one of these off; I'm still used to my Jeep.. good old fashion knuckle to knuckle steering I figured I would just center my wheel, and measure the inners extension on each side, but if there is a better way, I'm all for it!!

Thanks for the pointers!

 

[TheFriZ]

oh, and it will absolutely be getting an alignment. It has new tires, and all of the steering is being replaced; I definitely want to preserve the new tires!

 

[afg10000]

I think Nelson's talking about the slip joint on the steering column. Perfect advice on centering the new rack beforehand. Don't assume that pinion is dead center. I had that problem. We used a ratchet strap from the steering wheel to a floor pedal to lock the wheel in center. FYI, DO NOT turn the steering wheel much when it's disconnected from the rack. It's gots some springs in there for the air bag stuff that can break. We we're able to adjust the column without removing the new rack to center it but again, an even bigger PITA. Maybe install some poly rack bushings if the whole mess is already out of there anyway. Might save ya a headache down the road.

 

[TheFriZ]

well... the damn thing is ready to come off, short of these stupid power steering lines and the column. I have removed the bolts for the column, I imagine when the rack drops, it will come out... I have my steering wheel locked (centered) with Ratchet straps...

BUT... these power steering lines are FUBAR! Using a Snap-On Line wrench, obviously a high quality, tight fitting wrench; I have managed to successfully turn a 6pt nut into a round nut..... I let them soak for over 24hours in PB blaster, but I guess it was too corroded. Im talking about the line closest to you if you were working on it from the drivers side fender area.... I cant get a wrench on the other line without having the first line removed, but it looks to be as corroded or worse than the one I have rounded off.......

Im at a loss... such a simple job has turned into a major PITA because of these lines...

 

[TheFriZ]

What is my next step??? can I just repair the ends of the lines, or will I have to buy all new lines? I really don't have the $ for this..... pressure line is over $400 from Camelback.... $150 from junkzone..... I figure I'll need both....

 

[COShadow]

Hmm, maybe try some vice grips set firmly? You could even wrap the fittings with a rag first to try to prevent more damage, as long as you get them on there well. Not sure what else you can do.

 

[TheFriZ]

Hmm, maybe try some vice grips set firmly? You could even wrap the fittings with a rag first to try to prevent more damage, as long as you get them on there well. Not sure what else you can do.

I wish that was possible, but I can barely get the line wrench in there to get on it, and that's with the rack pulled out as far as it will go safely.. I highly doubt I could get some vice grips on there

 

[TheFriZ]

I wish that was possible, but I can barely get the line wrench in there to get on it, and that's with the rack pulled out as far as it will go safely.. I highly doubt I could get some vice grips on there

I can apparently get a Gates Hose from Rock auto...
Pressure Line is $123.79
Return Line is $42.79

I'm still really upset with the down time though!!! 16 bucks shipping and 4-6 business day wait!!!

 

[Nelsonmd]

Check Napa for the line. IIRC it was also $150, same as autozone, but I found that the autozone (or actually oreilleys) line was aluminum, not steel like the OEM. I figured since Napa tends to carry higher quality stuff than autozone, theirs might be steel. Either way, it can't be worse than what I got from oreilleys.

As far as getting it off, I just cut the line and removed the rack. I tried to maneuver the line out whole, but I couldn't get the hard line to sneak through the space without taking everything apart.

IIRC, there was some stuff right above the rack there that wasn't metal, so I didn't feel comfortable putting a torch to the rack to get those nuts off, but maybe you can evaluate that for yourself. I have one of those mini gas welding kits from home depot (basically a small torch with oxy attachment) and that is alot more precise than a normal propane torch, so you might be able to get that in there without setting the whole thing on fire. Mine came off pretty easily once I heated up the rack (of course it was off the vehicle at that point...). You might be able to get it with vice grips if you can heat it.

One thing though, IIRC the nut that you stripped is the return line, and you need to keep that nut and short hose piece. My rack didn't come with a new one, and I think the new hose didn't either (I asked at oreilleys, but I don't remember if I got a sure answer). I re-used mine by just pulling the flex hose off that little piece of hard line coming out of the rack (there is a clamp that a PITA, but I managed it). I was desperate to save some money, so I really pushed to reuse the OEM line there, but just keep that in mind before you cut that short piece of hard line.

Also, if you check out my build thread (in my signature), click the link on the first post for my steering rack replacement, I showed that the o-rings that came with my new rack were way too big to fit into the fittings, so I ended up buying an o-ring kit as well and using some smaller o-rings in there. Actually, check out my thread anyway, I wrote some other stuff from my experience you might find useful.

Hope this helps!

 

[TheFriZ]

Check Napa for the line. IIRC it was also $150, same as autozone, but I found that the autozone (or actually oreilleys) line was aluminum, not steel like the OEM. I figured since Napa tends to carry higher quality stuff than autozone, theirs might be steel. Either way, it can't be worse than what I got from oreilleys.

As far as getting it off, I just cut the line and removed the rack. I tried to maneuver the line out whole, but I couldn't get the hard line to sneak through the space without taking everything apart.

IIRC, there was some stuff right above the rack there that wasn't metal, so I didn't feel comfortable putting a torch to the rack to get those nuts off, but maybe you can evaluate that for yourself. I have one of those mini gas welding kits from home depot (basically a small torch with oxy attachment) and that is alot more precise than a normal propane torch, so you might be able to get that in there without setting the whole thing on fire. Mine came off pretty easily once I heated up the rack (of course it was off the vehicle at that point...). You might be able to get it with vice grips if you can heat it.

One thing though, IIRC the nut that you stripped is the return line, and you need to keep that nut and short hose piece. My rack didn't come with a new one, and I think the new hose didn't either (I asked at oreilleys, but I don't remember if I got a sure answer). I re-used mine by just pulling the flex hose off that little piece of hard line coming out of the rack (there is a clamp that a PITA, but I managed it). I was desperate to save some money, so I really pushed to reuse the OEM line there, but just keep that in mind before you cut that short piece of hard line.

Also, if you check out my build thread (in my signature), click the link on the first post for my steering rack replacement, I showed that the o-rings that came with my new rack were way too big to fit into the fittings, so I ended up buying an o-ring kit as well and using some smaller o-rings in there. Actually, check out my thread anyway, I wrote some other stuff from my experience you might find useful.

Hope this helps!

Yea, that nut is what I've been worried about. I bought a new, OEM Toyota Steering rack, so I'm not worried about any fitment problems there. I thought about having lines made, and Im sure a hydraulic shop would have the right fittings, even probably that nut, but Im worried about downtime, and where Im currently located, good shops are hard to find.

The Gates Line kits I found look to have that nut on the end of them.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4590402&cc=1317463

I trust Gates, I used a Gates Racing Timing Kit for my STi and was very impressed with the quality, it's actually the standard for those pieces(I manage a 800+ member Subaru club, everyone uses those over OEM).

As far as getting it off, I imagine my sawzall will get it off nicely

I just hate that I'm going to have to have the truck down for a week... Not to mention I hate that my 1969 Firebird will be sitting outside instead of in the garage


EDIT: Well, I found the Gates parts on Ebay, Fast and Free shipping for $202 for both lines. Should be here on or before Friday, and I was able to use BillMeLater (6mo, no interest)... so the hit didn't hurt as bad....

New lines will be good I suppose. Now we wait...

I can still go on and do my new front and rear shocks, and my new front lower ball joints in the mean time...

Thinking about ordering some Prothane poly Sway bar bushings for the front as well... the OEM are TOAST.....

SIDE NOTE: I thought about ordering a Gates Power Steering Pump re-seal kit... I haven't noticed a leak from mine, but I haven't looked all that hard yet either... they are only $16 on amazon... I suppose I need to dig that thread out and see if it's worth the time... at that point. my Power steering system would be FRESH.