V6 owners, how are your water pump holding up?

[GupsT4R]

08 V6 190kms so far so good

 

[Badbert]

200.000 plus miles. No problems yet.

 

[Captsolo]

The best way to blow a head gasket on an aluminum block is heat - likely from the water pump going out and leaking coolant into the oil. Make sure to watch your coolant level if you don't do it.

Mine has 113 and no signs of going out, but I'm going to have my brother do the pump (he's doing his at 100k as well) when it cools off some. I'd rather do the preventative maintenance and play it safe.

My 2005 SR5 has 147,000 miles and the OEM WP is working fine. I check my overfill coolant tank regularly (once a week and more - pop the hood - sight it to the top fill line - not the low fill line), and look for water leaks every time I get in and out of the car.

I watch my temp gauge like a hawk. It has always been in that grey "range". Definitely don't want an overheat or low coolant from coolant loss in a 4runner. :attention:

I have this in the garage. Use Toyota steel gasket only.

Amazon.com: Aisin WPT-802 Engine Water Pump: Automotive

 

[Sunn4Runner]

I just had my 2003 V6 SR5's original water pump replaced at 389,897kms.
Not bad for original

 

[Drcoffee]

You really need to remove the skid plate and look up from underneath. There is no other way to visually inspect for water pump leaking. If you wait until you see loss of coolant, you are just asking for trouble. Mine was leaking at 222k miles. Recommend changing the radiator at the same time. $80 for the pump and $90 for the Rad. Rockauto

 

[jeffreykb]

My experience...after my 2007 4Runner V6 with 163K miles was parked for 30 minutes or less, a large amount of coolant leaked out from the water pump weep hole. After adding water to the radiator, it is estimated that a pint a minute was leaking from the weep hole. Of course, every traffic light stopped me on my way home 5 miles away in 100+ F weather; however, the engine temp stayed at operating temp. No coolant leak was noticed before parking or the days before this incident. No trail of coolant was found leading to the parking space. I replaced the water pump, radiator, thermostat, and serpentine belt, and no coolant leaks since the repair.

 

[Bundutrailer]

I just purchased an OEM water pump which is a sure thing to go on the V6. Given the varying mileage when it goes out, thought it’s best to have it even on long trips as a spare part. At 94k miles with original

 

[gaber6]

05 v6.
Generic replacement at 150k miles with HG.
Just replaced that one after thermostat failed on a trip and I had to run with water for a few 100 miles.
Now at 225k miles. OEM water pump now with Toyota fluid

 

[Bluesky 07]

For anyone needing a step-by-step for replacing the water pump:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-5Jeyw1cyS4" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

TRQ/1A Auto has many other excellent videos on various 4th Gen repairs. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, just sharing since their videos have been so helpful.

 

[ktom3001]

It was mentioned further up that you can't really tell when they're leaking and I found that to be true. I finally did mine at 245K and was very surprised how much pink crystalized antifreeze was in the back of the fan.
I ended up doing everything including the thermostat, radiator, idler pulleys, and belt. I had the tensioner but it was more PIA than I was prepared to tackle that day so it's on the shelf.
I'm a push it kind of guy but having a WP fail would not be fun on a road trip with family. I think 150K is probably a safe interval.

 

[Bluesky 07]

It was mentioned further up that you can't really tell when they're leaking and I found that to be true. I finally did mine at 245K and was very surprised how much pink crystalized antifreeze was in the back of the fan.
I ended up doing everything including the thermostat, radiator, idler pulleys, and belt. I had the tensioner but it was more PIA than I was prepared to tackle that day so it's on the shelf.
I'm a push it kind of guy but having a WP fail would not be fun on a road trip with family. I think 150K is probably a safe interval.

Many, me included, just change the pulley if there's nothing wrong with the tensioner itself. You can either press new bearings into your current pulley or do it the "accidental" way I did - I bought a kit with the tensioner and the other pulleys then figured out, the same way you did, how much of a PITA it is to replace the whole part. Fortunately, the pulley and bolt off the new tensioner went on with no issue. I considered returning the kit and buying individual pulleys but no one sells one for the tensioner (that I could find at least) and the cost would have been about the same anyway. In fact, I'll send you my old tensioner pulley if you want to press new bearings into it. There are some threads where people talk about what bearings they used and so on. I didn't want to mess with it.

 

[rwh963]

V6 215k miles original water pump, no leaks. did replace the radiator at around 150k.

update: 233k miles, still original pump.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

142k at 16 years old still on stock water pump.

 

[tmangino7]

I replaced mine at 150k preventively to find out that it was leaking out of the weep hole (hard to see). With the cost of them and the somewhat prevalent head gasket leaks why wouldn't you replace it. They are going to fail and at 150k it exceeded it life expectancy.

 

[ktom3001]

Many, me included, just change the pulley if there's nothing wrong with the tensioner itself. You can either press new bearings into your current pulley or do it the "accidental" way I did - I bought a kit with the tensioner and the other pulleys then figured out, the same way you did, how much of a PITA it is to replace the whole part. Fortunately, the pulley and bolt off the new tensioner went on with no issue. I considered returning the kit and buying individual pulleys but no one sells one for the tensioner (that I could find at least) and the cost would have been about the same anyway. In fact, I'll send you my old tensioner pulley if you want to press new bearings into it. There are some threads where people talk about what bearings they used and so on. I didn't want to mess with it.

I did the same thing, took the new pulley wheel off and installed on my tensioner.
I keep reading about people pushing these water pumps and hurray for you if it doesn't strand you somewhere or overheat your motor.
I pushed mine as well but in hindsight I don't see the point, especially if bragging rights costs you a tow or worse a head gasket.

 

[Drcoffee]

The tensioner itself rarely fails. You can just replace the pulley. Febest 0187-GRJ200 pulley appears to be a direct replacement for the tensioner pulley. I just doubled up the 6203 bearings in the original pulley after cleaning and painting it.

4runner and FJC share the same engine, pulley replacement

 

[BB_2005]

Did the radiator and water pump last year as we were going on a long UP trip. I am not sure if both were original but I put 100k on them in my ownership, replaced at 255k. The waterpump wasn't in bad shape but had started leaking out of the weep hole. Still shiny inside the engine!

I'm pretty religious about changing coolant as I come from the GM Dexcool school of hard knocks! Probably why the pump lasted as long.

 

[Ripper238]

I used to proactively replace my water pump in my Acura when I changed the timing belt. Acura also suggested doing this at the same time since it would be cheaper and they already are taking it all apart anyway.

That said it appears the 4R water pump is really a non issue, so maybe at 200k+?

 

[BB_2005]

That said it appears the 4R water pump is really a non issue, so maybe at 200k+?

I would say the main thing is no noticeable leaks, particularly at the weep hole. After that as long as it is spinning smooth and doing its job, you're probably alright.

 

[zguy1]

I bought my truck with 205k miles about 3 years ago. I don't know if it was the original pump but I just replaced it at 295k miles while I was changing the head gaskets.

The weep hole had pink crud and so did the inside of the fan pulley. There was NO coolant visible from underside the pulley or the water pump. I was planning on replacing it but had no idea it had leaked or was leaking.