what an unbelievable difference! - kappa 3.5 dash speakers

Isn't the goal on the 3.5" dash speakers to get as close to 2 ohms as possible?

JBL GX302 = 2.2 ohm
JBL GTO329 = 3 ohm

Which is a better match for the non-JBL Entune HU?
 
Just use the speakers in my signature. It sounds fantastic for stock HU. Oh and you don't really need to bother with the hatch speakers...not significant improvement back there.
 
Just use the speakers in my signature. It sounds fantastic for stock HU. Oh and you don't really need to bother with the hatch speakers...not significant improvement back there.

Did you use bass blockers on the GX302's? They seem to be only rated for 4 ohm speakers, hard to tell what the cutoff would be for 2.3 ohms...
 
Did you use bass blockers on the GX302's? They seem to be only rated for 4 ohm speakers, hard to tell what the cutoff would be for 2.3 ohms...

Yes I just removed the oem blockers and soldered the connection and used the blockers that came with the jbl speakers. Sounds great!
 
Yea it comes already built into the speaker so no extra soldering needed. I installed the Polk 3.5 in my camry and I had to solder these giant bass blockers which was a pain. Also the JBL's sound better than the Polks IMO.
 
I recently put some JBL 3020's in and they sound great. Came with bass blockers that I had to solder in line on the positive lead. I highly recommend the upgrade.


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Am I gonna get thrown out of the 4Runner audiophile club if I do this? This Allen screw has the same pitch as the factory screws, but a small enough head that they just catch the frame of the speaker.
bbe25eab8d6c0d8e4e070f6e7902bda4.jpg

4005c6951beb08f2af2ad1c213d44acf.jpg
 
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Got my connectors moved over to the new speakers (GX302). Black to (-) white to (+).
bb7195a00e2ea14bebcdae3f903a7ab7.jpg


Label on the connector (just now noticing) says 4 ohm. Why is everyone so fixed on 2 ohm speakers?
 
Am I gonna get thrown out of the 4Runner audiophile club if I do this? This Allen screw has the same pitch as the factory screws, but a small enough head that they just catch the frame of the speaker.
bbe25eab8d6c0d8e4e070f6e7902bda4.jpg

4005c6951beb08f2af2ad1c213d44acf.jpg



I would be worried about them coming loose over time due to vibration and what not. Not very much surface area holding them in place like that. You know?

2 ohm is the total resistance on the front because the door and dash are 4 ohm wired in parallel.


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2 ohm is the total resistance on the front because the door and dash are 4 ohm wired in parallel.

Right, but that doesn't explain why people are fixating on these 2.3 Ohm speakers when replacing the dash, or "settling" on 3 Ohm alternatives. The 2.3 Ohm speakers drop the channel load to 1.46 Ohms.
 
I would be worried about them coming loose over time due to vibration and what not. Not very much surface area holding them in place like that. You know?

Yeah that's a question. On one of them, I took a washer and bent the edge 90 degrees but with the hole still flat/intact and put that under the screw. The vertical edge of the washer is down on the inside edge of the speaker frame, so acts as a spring washer under the screw. I'll do that to the other screws as well. Unfortunately didn't take a pic.

They sound great, though!
 
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Got my connectors moved over to the new speakers (GX302). Black to (-) white to (+).
bb7195a00e2ea14bebcdae3f903a7ab7.jpg


Label on the connector (just now noticing) says 4 ohm. Why is everyone so fixed on 2 ohm speakers?

I noticed this also just finished up installing the jbl gx302s, maybe lower ohm dash replacements help keep the volume up by taking more of the watts than the doors instead of splitting it evenly.

Anyways Im happy with the outcome, would recomend the jbls for 50$ its worth it for sure, needed bass blockers, removed the stock ones off the blue boxes.
 
Right, but that doesn't explain why people are fixating on these 2.3 Ohm speakers when replacing the dash, or "settling" on 3 Ohm alternatives. The 2.3 Ohm speakers drop the channel load to 1.46 Ohms.

That's what is confusing me. And you can't just put an ohmmeter across it to measure, as it's not a pure resistive load.
 
The 302's come wth bass blockers...

I know but it wasnt enough, they were popping like crazy, i left the ones on the speaker that came with em, then added some from BB the 300mhz ones, no more popping and can max it out, i think the blockers On the speaker may only be ran to the tweeter portion. I dont know thought not good at electronics, just stating what was needed to get em to work
 
Right, but that doesn't explain why people are fixating on these 2.3 Ohm speakers when replacing the dash, or "settling" on 3 Ohm alternatives. The 2.3 Ohm speakers drop the channel load to 1.46 Ohms.



Yeah, I don't know either. Maybe for more volume out of the dash due to the lower resistance (as noted by another post). Or it is just a case of every one else is doing it so it must be better. Who knows. I love how good mine sounds now for $50. Only thing I may try are some foam rings. I don't see any need for more money spent unless I am going all in with amps and really nice speakers. And that's not likely to happen. $2k+ could be muck better spent elsewhere.


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Yeah, I don't know either. Maybe for more volume out of the dash due to the lower resistance (as noted by another post). Or it is just a case of every one else is doing it so it must be better. Who knows. I love how good mine sounds now for $50. Only thing I may try are some foam rings. I don't see any need for more money spent unless I am going all in with amps and really nice speakers. And that's not likely to happen. $2k+ could be muck better spent elsewhere.

Yeah, years ago I was really into car audio. I still want a decent system as I am a bit snobbish, but I don't want to go all in and I don't want to sacrifice any precious cargo space either. I've got a much nicer head unit and plan on doing some more sound deadening, but I'm still undecided on what to do for speakers. Right now I'd be happier with better clarity and imaging, along with hopefully tighter bass. In my past vehicles I've ran components but I also haven't had the option of a mid range driver in the dash. I can't help but wonder if a good 3.5" coaxial combined with a good 6.5" woofer wouldn't be even better than a modest priced component system.
 
Yeah, years ago I was really into car audio. I still want a decent system as I am a bit snobbish, but I don't want to go all in and I don't want to sacrifice any precious cargo space either. I've got a much nicer head unit and plan on doing some more sound deadening, but I'm still undecided on what to do for speakers. Right now I'd be happier with better clarity and imaging, along with hopefully tighter bass. In my past vehicles I've ran components but I also haven't had the option of a mid range driver in the dash. I can't help but wonder if a good 3.5" coaxial combined with a good 6.5" woofer wouldn't be even better than a modest priced component system.

I wonder the same thing too about swapping in a decent driver to go with my JBL's. Problem is I think its diminishing returns for me. Given I would only swap the door speakers, my concern would be marginal or no improvement for money spent. You know? I was just listening to a bit of electronic on the way home from dropping my daughter at school and I have to say for 99 cent shit box OE speakers driven off a head unit, the factory door 6x9's put out decent bass. Its not rattle the house and give you a stomach ache type of stuff, but pretty good all things considered. I have read some folks post on here about how they swapped the door speakers and were not impressed. My mind tells me something like what I put in the dash has to be better than what Toyota put in the door, but maybe those are just really well matched to the head unit and that's why they sound good. I don't know. Maybe I will just have to spend a little money and find out. Curious to know how yours turns out if you do it.
 

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