what an unbelievable difference! - kappa 3.5 dash speakers

I noticed some popping too. Crutchfield suggests the 600hz-800hz cut-off frequency blockers for the 3.5" speakers. Would there be a downside to using the 600hz versus the 150hz?

Also, the kappas are supposed to have a "user adjustable tweeter level control" to "add or subtract 3dB output." Has anyone adjusted their speakers? What exactly is this supposed to do?
 
So i just went down to the local Best Buy and picked up a pair of bass blockers. The install guy said the one I need is for small speakers. (They only had two options) My
only concern is the box says its rated for 30,000 hz. Thats sound crazy high. Has any one have any feed back if this will work or not. The brand name is FIERCE.
 
I noticed some popping too. Crutchfield suggests the 600hz-800hz cut-off frequency blockers for the 3.5" speakers. Would there be a downside to using the 600hz versus the 150hz?

Also, the kappas are supposed to have a "user adjustable tweeter level control" to "add or subtract 3dB output." Has anyone adjusted their speakers? What exactly is this supposed to do?

I looked at Crutchfield's recommendation and yes, for the 3.5's they do recommend the 600hz ones (low power head unit). 800 hz for a high power unit. Our standard head units would be considered low power by most any measure. So I guess this means anything up to 600 hz (frequency) gets passed to the kappa's. Anything above is blocked. I think I'll order the 600's then.
 
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I may be wrong here, but I thought that was the point of the crossover that is attached to the Kappa's to block out the lower frequencies that the speaker can't play. Maybe someone with much more knowledge than I can explain. After install I played some pretty bass heavy music at about 40 on the volume control. Pretty sure I didn't here any popping.
 
I may be wrong here, but I thought that was the point of the crossover that is attached to the Kappa's to block out the lower frequencies that the speaker can't play. Maybe someone with much more knowledge than I can explain. After install I played some pretty bass heavy music at about 40 on the volume control. Pretty sure I didn't here any popping.
I think im going to give it a try with out the bass blockers and see how it goes from there.
 
I may be wrong here, but I thought that was the point of the crossover that is attached to the Kappa's to block out the lower frequencies that the speaker can't play. Maybe someone with much more knowledge than I can explain. After install I played some pretty bass heavy music at about 40 on the volume control. Pretty sure I didn't here any popping.

Unless you are really paying attention, it almost sounds like someone hitting a snare drum, in rhythm, so I can see how someone could miss hearing it. And of course it doesn't happen with every piece of music.
 
You can get the bass Blockers locally, I picked a set up from a local car stereo installer for $5 a pair. The crossover on the Kappas as with most two way speakers is for the tweeters only, the woofer will see everything else below that crossover point.As far as the frequency goes 150hz is just about perfect, take it from someone who has actually installed and listened to them. Every brand of speaker is a little different.TRust me get the 150hz @ 4ohm ones ! Best Buy has them too, and I believe Walmart might have them also. Don't get too caught up in the Brand name, all they are is Non-Polarized Capicators in a plastic case or heat shrink wrap.
 
You can get the bass Blockers locally, I picked a set up from a local car stereo installer for $5 a pair. The crossover on the Kappas as with most two way speakers is for the tweeters only, the woofer will see everything else below that crossover point.As far as the frequency goes 150hz is just about perfect, take it from someone who has actually installed and listened to them. Every brand of speaker is a little different.TRust me get the 150hz @ 4ohm ones ! Best Buy has them too, and I believe Walmart might have them also. Don't get too caught up in the Brand name, all they are is Non-Polarized Capicators in a plastic case or heat shrink wrap.

Thanks for the advice.....red sox 9-6 today! Go Boston... Lol
 
I noticed some popping too. Crutchfield suggests the 600hz-800hz cut-off frequency blockers for the 3.5" speakers. Would there be a downside to using the 600hz versus the 150hz?

Also, the kappas are supposed to have a "user adjustable tweeter level control" to "add or subtract 3dB output." Has anyone adjusted their speakers? What exactly is this supposed to do?

I'm interested in the Adjustable tweeter level control. A quick google search brings up some sites that claim the two-way speakers can be adjusted by turning the tweeter, but i tried and they don't appear to turn and I don't want to snap them off. Anyone else want to inspect theirs? Maybe they need to be removed from the bracket first?

Infinity - Car Audio

Adjustable tweeter level-Each Kappa multielement features a user adjustable tweeter level control. On the two-way models, simply rotate the tweeter to add or subtract 3dB output. On the three-way models, it is the simple push of a button right on the tweeter faceplate.
 
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I don't understand. Why would you need a "bass blocker" if the 3.5" speakers come with a crossover, which serves that purpose already?

Also, everyone who has been having the clipping problems, are you having this problem in the JBL or non-JBL system?
 
I did my 3.5 kappa install this weekend, I did NOT install any type of bass blocker (i did buy them, but wanted to see if they were needed). It took a good hour to get the passnager side speaker in and about 5 min for the driver side. (using the mending bracket set up. thank you for that). I must say the sound quality is great, i have not found any need for a bass blocker. I tested on cd, xm, radio. with bass levels from -2 upto +3 and normal to high levels. Keep in mind when you splice the two pos. wires togeter you are taking out the factory high pass filter to the front door speaker. So you will now get full sound from the front door speaker (sounds ok to me). All in all. this is a great mod for anyone that likes better sound quality. As for the bass blocker or low pass filter. To each his own, I dont see the need for them but someone else may. Oh and by the way im not sure what others have done, but i had to remove the plastic ring on top of the speaker so the dash cover would go back on. And I dont think the connector on the kappa is a crossover, it think is just a longer connector. I have never seen and crossover that small. My truck is a 2011
SR5 with NON JBL system.
 
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I don't understand. Why would you need a "bass blocker" if the 3.5" speakers come with a crossover, which serves that purpose already?

Also, everyone who has been having the clipping problems, are you having this problem in the JBL or non-JBL system?

This is on the non-JBL unit in my TE. All is wired correctly but the clipping is an issue. I can minimize it by turning down the bass as well as the volume. Will be installing the bass blockers for sure.
 
Yeah, I've been sitting on a roll of this B-Quiet sound deadening materials - B-Quiet Ultimate - Better than Dynamat!! brownbread for about 5 months now. I'm waiting till it warms up some to install. I'm gonna order the HLiner for the hood and a couple more rolls of this stuff for all the doors and parts of the floor.

Did the driver's side door today. Took me about an hour. Removing the door speaker and cutting the moisture barrier is key. This allows you to fit both arms inside.

The door feels MUCH more solid now. I can't wait until I finish the others.
 
Infinity Kappa's

Ordered my Infinity Kappa's from Amazon and paid $50 w/shipping. Installed them this weekend and they do sound great. Definitely sound better w/ the party mode on: too bad the rear seat speakers are cut off when the party mode is being used though.
 
too bad the rear seat speakers are cut off when the party mode is being used though.


I did a little "permanent party mode" mod the other weekend. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures. Cliffs notes, cut the wire going from the switch to the radio, tie it to a ground on the back of the radio.

I can red-line the electrical prints if anyone is interested in what I did.
 
Did the kappa in dash thang last night. The thing I was most worried about was getting the grill off without damaging anything. Not knowing what the bottom of the grill looked like and how brittle the clipps were I just knew I would FIU. But it was easy and all worry was for not. I just pried from the front slow easy pressure and they were off.

The driver's side dropped right in no prob. The only thing I found about that side, was the wire was shorter and took a little more trimming to get things to work right.

The passenger side had enough wire to work with, but was a bas**** to get in place. I finally said FI and just started screwing it back down and it found itself fitting on it's own.

I did have to remove the plastic ring. I just treated it like I was opening a jar and they came right off no problem, AND were easy to put back on. They seemed to want to stick back in place naturally.

Grills back on and Jamm!!! ... uh yeah. I'll be going to get the bass blockers.

I like heavier beats and crank it. So I cranked the industrial, and had the popping at 40 and above. The sound to me was like a cracking sound or someone squishing/flexing an empty plastic coke bottle.

So, hopefully a trip to best buy for the bass blockers will take care of that pop, and all will be right with the world.
 
Did the kappa in dash thang last night. The thing I was most worried about was getting the grill off without damaging anything. Not knowing what the bottom of the grill looked like and how brittle the clipps were I just knew I would FIU. But it was easy and all worry was for not. I just pried from the front slow easy pressure and they were off.

The driver's side dropped right in no prob. The only thing I found about that side, was the wire was shorter and took a little more trimming to get things to work right.

The passenger side had enough wire to work with, but was a bas**** to get in place. I finally said FI and just started screwing it back down and it found itself fitting on it's own.

I did have to remove the plastic ring. I just treated it like I was opening a jar and they came right off no problem, AND were easy to put back on. They seemed to want to stick back in place naturally.

Grills back on and Jamm!!! ... uh yeah. I'll be going to get the bass blockers.

I like heavier beats and crank it. So I cranked the industrial, and had the popping at 40 and above. The sound to me was like a cracking sound or someone squishing/flexing an empty plastic coke bottle.

So, hopefully a trip to best buy for the bass blockers will take care of that pop, and all will be right with the world.
I also installed without the bass blockers. This past weekend I was able to put the windows down and crank it up and did hear the pop/cracking noise also about 40 vol level. I ordered a pair of 600hrz blockers from Crutchfield (thats what they rec.) on Tue. and they came in the very next day. So I will be installing them this weekend. Will repost with the results of the 600hrz blockers.
 
Anyone having issues with the speakers making popping/static noises at some point and the stereo turning off the speaker outputs?

Checked my wire connections. All is fine. Maybe just a bad speaker? Its like my stereo is getting overloaded and turning off the built in amp. And the volume is only at like 20ish.
 
Anyone having issues with the speakers making popping/static noises at some point and the stereo turning off the speaker outputs?QUOTE]

Not here, it just cracks but keeps playing.

I didn't get around to putting in the bass blockers this weekend, so don't yet know if it'll be healed.
 

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