What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

[IslandJim]

Sorry did a search and dont have all morning, where or how did you mount the the light bar for your lights on the front of your truck. Did you make that mounting bar? Are those Baja Design lights also?

Thanks titan, truck looks great for a white 4runner lol

 

[honda250xtitan]

Sorry did a search and dont have all morning, where or how did you mount the the light bar for your lights on the front of your truck. Did you make that mounting bar? Are those Baja Design lights also?

Thanks titan, truck looks great for a white 4runner lol

i'm a sucker for work truck white

so its rago fab behind the grill mounts, then i made my own mounts to extend from behind the grille, attached to a piece of aluminum extrusion from tnutz or whoever you prefer. stainless steel button head allen bolts to attach brackets to the aluminum bar. Carriage bolts slide in the extrusion, bolt the baja designs xl pro's to it.


I originally used the rago fab brackets they sell to go from behind the grille to in front, but theyre too short so I made longer ones (i think i used 1/4 or 3/16", just what i had laying around).

has a little vibration that can drive you nuts, so i added some reinforcement to the rago fab brackets. (they only bolt to the bottom brace, no support at the top, i added supports to the top that tie in to some of the toyota sheet metal)

the bar is anodized black, i have a raw one as well, since i ordered it first to make sure my measurment was correct.

wiring is baja designs 2 into 1 harness then into the normal harness meant for the XL 80's, which pull way more power. no issues with all 3 lights on one relay and switch, i verified this with SDHQ as well.

here is how i ordered the bar from tnutz

EXM-4545L-BLACK - 45mm x 45mm BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion
Length (in):
30

Fractional length:
0.250" (1/4")

Machining for other end.:
M12 x 1.75 x 30mm deep tap $0.50

Machining for one end.:
M12 x 1.75 x 30mm deep tap $0.50

 

[TrailRunnin14]

Just picked up my first 4runner. A 19 TRD PRO. Would anyone know if my heated seats are leather or Toyota softex? Dealership is clueless.

Softex


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[ZILLA19]

Softex


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Thank you! That's what I thought but they were confused what softex even was and kept telling me they come with leather. Haha, sad when the customer knows more.

 

[Andrea]

Finished a bike ride and the sunset was hitting just right

 

[dajosh]

Camped out. Golden hour photo.

 

[Blue 4ever Runner]

Drove it from NY to NC. 640 miles with over 1,000 lbs of stuff loaded in it. 19.2 average MPG not babying it. Made it in 9 1/2 hours. This thing was made for driving the distance it's the 6th time I've made this trip and it really is comfortable for the long distance.

 

[gcon22]

Camped out. Golden hour photo.

Looks like father son moment. So epic.

 

[dedicated2thecraft]

Installed a wireless phone charger under the tray (SR5, so no gear shifter) on my center console. Got it work on the first try too

 

[baldrik78]

Front KDSS billet clamps, sway bar adapters, and a fuse box cover that lets you put a cover over fuse taps. Nice gear from DR KDSS. I have the clamps and the cover, and plan to add a DR KDSS control switch in a few months.

What do the clamps do? I have the KDSS control switch and it is fantastic. Highly recommend.

 

[baldrik78]

Dood, I been eyeballing your fairlead. Did you have to modify your winch line?

Nice build btw

Yes and no. I did not modify the actual line. *BUT*, due to the infinite wisdom from Smittybilt where they splice the line thru a "non-removeable" hook, I did have to cut the hook off with an angle grinder. There was also a u-shaped metal sleeve on the rope at the hook that I had to cut off. The loop on the end of the line is tight, but it does fit around the Yankum fairlead. I keep a fid in my truck just in case something happens to the loop on the line.

I'm a big fan of this fairlead overall. The only metal components of my winching system are typically the hard mounts on the vehicles involved. Winching feels about 50% less sketchy now.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

Added a remote start and TRD exhaust yesterday. The remote start is awesome but I'm iffy about the exhaust. It still needs to break in.

 

[mrblah]

Yes and no. I did not modify the actual line. *BUT*, due to the infinite wisdom from Smittybilt where they splice the line thru a "non-removeable" hook, I did have to cut the hook off with an angle grinder. There was also a u-shaped metal sleeve on the rope at the hook that I had to cut off. The loop on the end of the line is tight, but it does fit around the Yankum fairlead. I keep a fid in my truck just in case something happens to the loop on the line.

I'm a big fan of this fairlead overall. The only metal components of my winching system are typically the hard mounts on the vehicles involved. Winching feels about 50% less sketchy now.

How u cut off the metal thimble surrounding the eyelet without damaging the rope?

Yeah I bought it after I saw yours lol…. We gonna be twins lol

 

[lewdog998]

Added a remote start and TRD exhaust yesterday. The remote start is awesome but I'm iffy about the exhaust. It still needs to break in.

Oh man...the DRONING of the TRD exhaust...i replaced mine with the regular muffler and kept the side outlet trd pipe....

and as far as "break in"....I dont know why people always talk about that...I can understand break in of an old style glass pack type muffler......but modern mufflers and resonators are a series of chambers and baffles that are all steel and do not "wear" or break in. Its more of you just getting used to the drone than the muffler actually changing tone. Those are my unsolicited thoughts, but if anyone can explain muffler "break in" then I would love to be educated.

one final note....i could see carbon buildup over time changing the tone, but these are modern engines and thats not really a thing.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

Oh man...the DRONING of the TRD exhaust...i replaced mine with the regular muffler and kept the side outlet trd pipe....

and as far as "break in"....I dont know why people always talk about that...I can understand break in of an old style glass pack type muffler......but modern mufflers and resonators are a series of chambers and baffles that are all steel and do not "wear" or break in. Its more of you just getting used to the drone than the muffler actually changing tone. Those are my unsolicited thoughts, but if anyone can explain muffler "break in" then I would love to be educated.

one final note....i could see carbon buildup over time changing the tone, but these are modern engines and thats not really a thing.

I'm still on the fence about it. 2K is where it's most noticeable but I don't get it too bad until I give it more throttle. If I ditch it some kid will buy it up quickly so that won't be an issue.

There's still carbon/soot as a result from the combustion process. There was carbon/soot in my stock piping.

 

[baldrik78]

How u cut off the metal thimble surrounding the eyelet without damaging the rope?

Yeah I bought it after I saw yours lol…. We gonna be twins lol

I put the metal sleeve in a vise and I took an angle grinder to it until I could pry it apart. I did nick the rope once or twice, but the damage was minimal. And like I said, I keep a fid in the truck, so it's like a 10 minute trail fix to put a new loop on it.

 

[Steve40th396]

Drove 600 miles from SC to Pensacola for work. On I10, the little hills had this Runner struggling. Kept downshifting just to maintain 80, which is flow of traffic for the most part.
Magnuson Supercharger is a option Toyota should just put on their build sheets.

 

[lewdog998]

I put the metal sleeve in a vise and I took an angle grinder to it until I could pry it apart. I did nick the rope once or twice, but the damage was minimal. And like I said, I keep a fid in the truck, so it's like a 10 minute trail fix to put a new loop on it.

Elimination of metal parts that can fly is always a good thing....but there is a cost, and that cost is lower strength of the rope. The tighter the radius under load, the lower the strength. So the rope with the metal loop end is actually stronger. Will you ever hit the limits...maybe, maybe knot....but it is something to consider. Typically a 4 to 1 bend radius to rope thickness (acceptable) results in a 15% reduction in strength.

Its likely a safer system, but knot as strong.

 

[Humble Leader]

ran the wiring for my arb compressor install. snails pace progression but I will finish this... just need the mount and switch to get here

 

[baldrik78]

Elimination of metal parts that can fly is always a good thing....but there is a cost, and that cost is lower strength of the rope. The tighter the radius under load, the lower the strength. So the rope with the metal loop end is actually stronger. Will you ever hit the limits...maybe, maybe knot....but it is something to consider. Typically a 4 to 1 bend radius to rope thickness (acceptable) results in a 15% reduction in strength.

Its likely a safer system, but knot as strong.

The Yankum fairlead does not work with the metal sleeve, so it had to go. 3/8" synthetic winch rope usually has breaking strength well north of what the 10k lbs winch can actually pull (50-100% more, depending on the line), so a small reduction in strength at the loop doesn't worry me. The biggest downside to synthetic lines has always been abrasion resistance and not a lack of strength.

And, just to be clear, I'm not shrugging off the dangers of a line breaking while under tension - there are lots of scenarios where a broken line under tension will be catastrophic. Every system is going to be a compromise and safety while winching is a #1 concern.