What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

Hoping someone can check me before I wreck something lol.

Wiring up an AOB switch for my ARB Twin that I transplanted from my 4th gen in to my 5th gen. I hooked the AOB in to the ARB harness and everything seems all hunky-dory for now. But I want to make it dim. I currently have 12v for the switch through the interior fuse box with an add-a-fuse. I know I need to tap the gray wire on the wiper heater switch to get the negative dimmer circuit to the AOB switch.

My question is, do I need to tap power (12v+) from the wiper heater switch as well to make it work? Or can I keep pulling my 12v from the fuse block and get the dimmer circuit just by tapping that Grey? Thanks!
 
You can leave your 12v supply where it is. All the grey wire from your wiper switch is going to do is turn the light on the switch when you turn your headlights on. The switch will still operate without that even connected.
 
I don't know what the dealerships charge for these services, but my total cost for fluids and gaskets was right around $100, so you're almost certainly saving money, as I assume it's at least $100 per, and you're getting the correct fluids in each case rather than just 75w90 in everything.
I just had both diffs and transfer case done at the dealership this weekend. It was right around $300. $200 of that was labor.
 
2 Diffs is a 30 min job at $200 total labor dealer making $400/hour. Neuro Surgery staff doesn't make $400/hour. They screwed you. Use independent shop next time around.
 
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Linex!
 
You can leave your 12v supply where it is. All the grey wire from your wiper switch is going to do is turn the light on the switch when you turn your headlights on. The switch will still operate without that even connected.

Ok that's what I figured. Everything with the switch works right now when I press it since I have not tapped in to the grey wire yet. When the car comes on, the light on the switch is on, so I am assuming I just need to tap in to the grey wire to make it dim/light properly. Thanks!
 
Rattle canned up my ADV fiberglass fenders (still need to wet sand and polish the clear but ill wait until they are installed to do that)...still had to trim about 1/2-3/4" off the fender to clear full bump with the 3.5+ TC kit. Fitment was decent for fiberglass...had to shave down the area near the a-pillars considerably and driver side headlight area.

Didnt turn out perfect...but for an offroad vehicle its definitely good enough.
 

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CB & Ham Install

Someone asked for some pics of my setup. I haven’t received the my new Ram mount, previous one fit my Rover but the foot won’t work with the yota. But you can see how it will look. Other than the install I can’t take credit for anything you see (except for the pistol mount). I found all the ideas on various forums. I’m really happy with the mag mounts for the mics. I hate drilling holes. For now I’m running mag mount antennas until I can decide on roof racks, tire rack or whatever.

I almost forgot. I mounted the receivers on thin wood sheets with the screws coming through about 3/16 to act as cleats. The speakers have velcro on the bottom and stick to the carpet like glue.
 

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Today I met a mechanic and got a quote for a 3" lift, front bumper, rock sliders all TJM. Seems kind of hard to find much info about them. Did a search but most threads are 4+ years old. Anyone rocking a new TJM lift on a runner? I have an '18 TRD OR.
 
Goofin around today. I cut a piece of metal out of the old tire carrier for my Jeep to make a mount for the Rotopax from the Jeep.
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I just had both diffs and transfer case done at the dealership this weekend. It was right around $300. $200 of that was labor.

2 Diffs is a 30 min job at $200 total labor dealer making $400/hour. Neuro Surgery staff doesn't make $400/hour. They screwed you. Use independent shop next time around.

I pay around $10 per quart and IIRC, it takes about 6 quarts to fill the rear diff, front diff and xfer case. Add 1 time cost of tools to do the job correctly if you don't have them already. I think I had to buy a bigger socket than what I had on hand, and I definitely had to buy a pump. Also needed to purchase that hex key socket or whatever you call it.

Let's just assume that you don't have any of the tools. Add another $40-50 from Harbor Freight for sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench, pump.

I bet it takes me longer than 30 minutes. I bet it takes me that long just to pump all the fluid in, but the dealerships is certainly going to have more efficient equipment

I get that not everyone wants to get under their truck. People are busy and time is money. This one is pretty easy though. I would certainly call the service manager and ask why $200 of labor. It is literally 4 bolts (6 if they do the xfer case as well). It is easier than an engine oil change because you don't have to remove skids and replace filter media. You remove the fill plug, then remove the drain plug. Wipe the drain plug off while the oil is draining. Put the drain plug back in, fill with fluid, put the fill plug back in. Even an hour of shop labor is being generous.
 
I pay around $10 per quart and IIRC, it takes about 6 quarts to fill the rear diff, front diff and xfer case. Add 1 time cost of tools to do the job correctly if you don't have them already. I think I had to buy a bigger socket than what I had on hand, and I definitely had to buy a pump. Also needed to purchase that hex key socket or whatever you call it.

Let's just assume that you don't have any of the tools. Add another $40-50 from Harbor Freight for sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench, pump.

I bet it takes me longer than 30 minutes. I bet it takes me that long just to pump all the fluid in, but the dealerships is certainly going to have more efficient equipment

I get that not everyone wants to get under their truck. People are busy and time is money. This one is pretty easy though. I would certainly call the service manager and ask why $200 of labor. It is literally 4 bolts (6 if they do the xfer case as well). It is easier than an engine oil change because you don't have to remove skids and replace filter media. You remove the fill plug, then remove the drain plug. Wipe the drain plug off while the oil is draining. Put the drain plug back in, fill with fluid, put the fill plug back in. Even an hour of shop labor is being generous.

Looking at the invoice, it was a flat labor rate of $69 per item (2 diffs + xfer).

And yeah, that's probably steep by $100. I was on the road elsewhere when the dealership called with the quote and I just said yeah, do it.

And yeah, I probably could have saved even more by doing it myself. But I live in a smallish apartment. I don't have a ton of room for extra tools without just stacking them in a corner and I don't have a place to work on my vehicle (my lease specifically prohibits you from working on vehicles in the parking lot), so I don't have a ton of choice about getting someone else to do it.

And yeah, an independent shop might have been cheaper. But I've only lived in the area for a couple of years and I don't know any actual mechanics or have people that can recommend a good local mechanic, so it would be a crapshoot in choosing one. There is a certain amount of insurance in having Toyota do the work - mostly that if they screw something up and refuse to make it right, I have Toyota corporate to fall back on. Independent shops don't have that.
 
285 70 17

Got the 285 70 17 put on yesterday how they look?
 

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