CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
If you don’t plan to keep it long, then just do drain and fills. If you do plan to keep it, do the full fluid change as I describe. It is not hard to do.
What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!
- Thread starter DEKA3
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If you don’t plan to keep it long, then just do drain and fills. If you do plan to keep it, do the full fluid change as I describe. It is not hard to do.
Do you have a picture or description of which is the return line and do you need engine running transmission in Neutral?
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Of the two lines attaching to passenger side front of the transmission, the top one is the return line from the cooler. Follow that up the passenger side of the radiator and back down and over to the driver’s side bottom of the radiator. There will be a pipe coming out of the radiator to hose which then connect to the pipe you just traced. Disconnect the hose from the pipe on the radiator and push on 2’ of 3/8” ID clear PVC hose. Use the hose to drain it into a bottle or bucket.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Of the two lines attaching to passenger side front of the transmission, the top one is the return line from the cooler. Follow that up the passenger side of the radiator and back down and over to the driver’s side bottom of the radiator. There will be a pipe coming out of the radiator to hose which then connect to the pipe you just traced. Disconnect the hose from the pipe on the radiator and push on 2’ of 3/8” ID clear PVC hose. Use the hose to drain it into a bottle or bucket.
tylertenny
Member
I moved to a house with a bigger garage in May and I finally got to spend a weekend out there knocking out some of the maintenance items that have been on my to-do list. Over the weekend I changed my rear pads and rotors, changed the rear diff fluid, greased the driveshaft, changed the engine and cabin air filters, and installed Cali Raised cat shields. I was going to change the front diff fluid but the drain plug wouldn't budge so I put the fill plug back and will have to circle back to that when I have more time. When I have another free weekend I'll do that along with changing the transfer case fluid, changing the oil, and installing front pads and rotors.
The gear oil I used was the Ravenol kit from BLAU. I see lots of people complaining about using a transfer pump and how much nicer oil bags are for filling. The Ravenol bottles have a built in hose in the bottle that makes filling pretty easy. Great price on the kit, too.
The gear oil I used was the Ravenol kit from BLAU. I see lots of people complaining about using a transfer pump and how much nicer oil bags are for filling. The Ravenol bottles have a built in hose in the bottle that makes filling pretty easy. Great price on the kit, too.
Steve40th396
Member
I put some Lasfit high beam LEDs into my 2019 Limited. 9005 LED Bulbs 100W 10000LM 6000K | LAair Series, All-in-One Design.
They flicker a little in auto headlight function. When on, they are perfect. No issues.
They flicker a little in auto headlight function. When on, they are perfect. No issues.
HoldMyBeer
New member
Picked my wife's 2018 Limited up earlier from getting the OME 2" lift and OME upper control arms installed. Rides great compared to the xreas that had 146k on it and was toast. Just wish we never let our daughter drive it previously. Between some kids purposely scratching almost every body panel and her friend falling asleep and bouncing it off a concrete divider the thing looks like a slightly lifted piece of shit.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Not all my vehicle are 5th 4Runners. I have a ‘94 and ‘99 K2500 Suburbans with 6.5 diesels, despite their reputation, the diesels have been reliable with 296K on the ‘94 and 242K on the ‘99. Unfortunately 242K was it on the ‘99 as it suffered a catastrophic oil loss going up Skalkaho Pass in Montana. With no place to turn around, I had to keep going until I could turn around, then coast my way down with no power. The engine was toast.
Cause of death was from the bolt going through the engine mount losing its nut and backing out, allowing the engine to vibrate and rub through a braided stainless oil cooler line.
I love the utility of this Suburban, especially it’s
tow capacity. I also love the fact that it has no smog equipment such as EGR, DPF, etc. Also a new diesel truck would run around $8OK. I certainly can afford that, but I prefer my old rig. So I ordered a new 6.5 Optimizer long block from AM General Engine Products in Franklin, OH who bought the line from GM and supplies the U.S. military for HumVees. It’s an uprgraded 506 block like the one I had in the ‘99. Better metallurgy with higher nickel content to prevent cracking on the web mains, better heads with added coolant passages, and most of all, a forged crank versus the cast in the stock engine.
We’ve pulled the old engine and trans and are slowly prepping the new to go back in, which should happen tomorrow. I have a friend, retired Army Ranger and fellow 6.5 fan, helping me with this job, while staying at my ranch in Montana.
Cause of death was from the bolt going through the engine mount losing its nut and backing out, allowing the engine to vibrate and rub through a braided stainless oil cooler line.
I love the utility of this Suburban, especially it’s
tow capacity. I also love the fact that it has no smog equipment such as EGR, DPF, etc. Also a new diesel truck would run around $8OK. I certainly can afford that, but I prefer my old rig. So I ordered a new 6.5 Optimizer long block from AM General Engine Products in Franklin, OH who bought the line from GM and supplies the U.S. military for HumVees. It’s an uprgraded 506 block like the one I had in the ‘99. Better metallurgy with higher nickel content to prevent cracking on the web mains, better heads with added coolant passages, and most of all, a forged crank versus the cast in the stock engine.
We’ve pulled the old engine and trans and are slowly prepping the new to go back in, which should happen tomorrow. I have a friend, retired Army Ranger and fellow 6.5 fan, helping me with this job, while staying at my ranch in Montana.
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PantherPRO24
New member
Just brought her home from the dealership, well, yesterday actually. It seems that it takes quite a bit of pressing down the accelerator pedal before the acceleration rate gets to be anything decent. I've never experienced this with other vehicles that are more underpowered than this. Is this common with the 5th generation? I see many threads and videos about devices that can be installed to remap the throttle response. Maybe that is what is needed. I mean it does get up to highway speeds when entering from almost a stop on an entrance ramp but you really have to press down on it.
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Humble Leader
Senior Member
ah yes, get used to pressing the skinny pedal. I feel I'm the only on here that doesn't have an issue with the acceleration. I think it's fine relative to the weight and size of that truck. I don't tow heavy with the 4runner though
maybe if you're coming from a sport performance car it seems slow but my second vehicle is an rx350 sport which isn't a performance race car but it is quite quick. I never drive the rx then go to the 4runner and think 'damn this is so slow'
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
People asking me why I installed a new long block 6.5 Optimizer diesel in my 1999 K2500 Suburban? I’ll start with no EGR and no DPF/DEF…forever.
baldrik78
New member
Oof. Rubbing through an oil cooler line while going up a mountain pass is my nightmare. My other vehicle is a '94 F-250 that I picked up to do some heavier towing. I'm also a fan of less popular engine choices, going with the 460 big block instead of the 7.3 PSD. I picked up another 460 from a '95 F-350 for 200 bucks that I'm hoping to rebuild this winter. In the meantime, I've added a set of longtube headers, deleted the cat, and upped the fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator. It weighs about 800 lbs more than my 4Runner, but is so much faster!
Humble Leader
Senior Member
Oof. Rubbing through an oil cooler line while going up a mountain pass is my nightmare. My other vehicle is a '94 F-250 that I picked up to do some heavier towing. I'm also a fan of less popular engine choices, going with the 460 big block instead of the 7.3 PSD. I picked up another 460 from a '95 F-350 for 200 bucks that I'm hoping to rebuild this winter. In the meantime, I've added a set of longtube headers, deleted the cat, and upped the fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator. It weighs about 800 lbs more than my 4Runner, but is so much faster!
I am surprised living in washington with winter weather and road salt that you found that old of a vehicle in that nice of condition. anytime I see those old style pickups they are beat up, full of rust, held up by zip ties and being used as a farm truck or just parked with 5 foot tall grass surrounding it. I saw one similar to that actually a few weeks ago but the entire top was removed like a convertible and the farmer was using it to haul apples lol
those 90s pickups are what pickups should be today. no frills and full of utility
Some of the work y’all are doing to your T4R is pretty cool to follow along - can’t wait to do some of it myself when the time comes. That may be a while though because of what I just did to my 5th gen…just brought it home for the first time. New ‘24 TRD ORP. I have put about 40 miles on it in the last 24 hours, so she’s up to 50 on the odometer now.
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honda250xtitan
New member
oil change, cabin air filter, ac blower motor, tire rotation, and a wash. minivan is at 97k miles now, next service i get to do the transmission as well.
so shiny and new
so shiny and new
sierraenvy
New member
So far I've added RCI skids, back seat protectors, interior full LEDs, LED reverse lights, glove compartment/center storage organizers, center storage pad/cover and TRD Pro wheels w/ GG ATX tires in C load. Ordered, but still awaiting Westcott sliders and the auto dimming dash sensor. I love how supported the 4Runner via the aftermarket, it's insane
Edit: Almost forgot, LFD crossbars with a mounted River Quiver for fly fishing
Edit: Almost forgot, LFD crossbars with a mounted River Quiver for fly fishing
Front and rear brakes. Seems to go through rotors more often than I expect (they warp, even with other "performance" brand rotors).
Also changed the stop lights. Bulbs were burned out.
At just short of 230K miles on my 2011 4Runner, so I cannot complain. She has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. Just don't have high expectations on the front rotors or the touch screen for the radio.
Also changed the stop lights. Bulbs were burned out.
At just short of 230K miles on my 2011 4Runner, so I cannot complain. She has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. Just don't have high expectations on the front rotors or the touch screen for the radio.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
The install of this 6.5 Optimizer diesel seemed to fight us all the way to the end. Almost the next to last thing to install was the exhaust crossover pipe. I ended up dropping it and it hit right on my cheek bone, imparting a nice cut. It was not deep enough to suture it, but deep enough to use surgical crazy glue (aka JB Weld).
Anyway, we got it lit and now it is purring. Already did the first oil change after 30 minutes. Will start putting some miles on it tomorrow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=shared&v=atmpDIbUbYc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=shared&v=Waq_l-U6zEk
Anyway, we got it lit and now it is purring. Already did the first oil change after 30 minutes. Will start putting some miles on it tomorrow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=shared&v=atmpDIbUbYc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=shared&v=Waq_l-U6zEk
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