What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Got these today!
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Went wheeling with someone whose never been wheeling before let alone acted as a spotter - never gonna make that mistake again. Dude was far more concerned with taking pictures for instagram than helping me stay clear of rocks and stumps and ended up getting this nice bonk on my rocker panel :rant: :withstupid: Somewhat my fault too though, happened while trying to turn around down a trail I took a gamble on and was MUCH too big for, and at least didn't hit the door and isn't all that noticeable unless you get on your knees! The fact that I got the dent unnecessarily is sh*tty but it actually bugs me less than the one on my hatch since it's way less visible. Still, would've been nice if Toyota didn't integrate them to the body and had them removable
Guess it's time for sliders! Already put two dents in my car from lack of armor, really not aiming for a third!
 

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I pulled the e-brake. Got instantly better brake response.

If you are wondering what I'm talking about, the rear drum brakes are self-adjusting. The e-brake aids in this adjustment. I had forgotten and haven't used mine in over year so the rears had gotten soft. Now they are much better.

I've been using my e-brake religiously since I bought my 4Runner a decade ago. Good to know it actually helps. I also make a point of coming to a complete, deliberate stop when I reverse because I was taught that helps with the rears, too. But I was also taught to not run my plug wires without crossing them so I've really just been operating on folklore.
 
I've been using my e-brake religiously since I bought my 4Runner a decade ago. Good to know it actually helps. I also make a point of coming to a complete, deliberate stop when I reverse because I was taught that helps with the rears, too. But I was also taught to not run my plug wires without crossing them so I've really just been operating on folklore.

Have you been working on the 4Runner lately? I remember you had lots of plans for the future. Of course the weather has been brutal lately which makes it not that fun. I did a wiring job yesterday putting in a switch to control my transmission and was not very comfortable...
 
Have you been working on the 4Runner lately? I remember you had lots of plans for the future. Of course the weather has been brutal lately which makes it not that fun. I did a wiring job yesterday putting in a switch to control my transmission and was not very comfortable...


Did all sway bar and steering rack bushings. Dropped that c-frame press on my face more than once! Made a nice difference. 13WE TBU is next after house guests depart. Should probably order stainless rear brake line to do at the same time since I have the fronts. Ordering front/rear shocks and springs tonight using a recent post here as a shopping list - KYB & 99 tall coils for my 96. Bought OEM TREs and thinking I should do inners as well but not convinced on after market yet. And if I go OEM inners why not spend a little more and replace the rack? Might just do after market and consider it practice. /babble
Not looking forward to working in this heat.


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1996 4Runner SR5 | Auto | Unlifted | 248K miles
 
Rear diff oil. First time it's been changed that I know of. Used Lucas 80W 90 for the gear oil. Replaced both crush washers and the fill plug, which got a bit rounded off during its extraction. Was able to use the original drain plug after picking out the metal attached to the magnet.

I also got an OBDLink MX+ OBD2 from Jeff B. and plugged it into the OBD port. It took me a few minutes to get it to communicate with my iPhone's OBD Fusion app, but I finally got it to connect via Bluetooth. I'm sure it's useful for diagnostics, but I'll use it mostly for watching my MPG. I'd really like to get my MPG over 20 but that's probably going to be a challenge in a semi-urban environment. Before watching the data with the Fusion app I've been getting a little over 18 on average, which feels not so great but is actually not so bad. Hoping I might be able to squeeze another 1.5 MPG out by easing up on my lead foot. :fingerscrossed:
 
R I'd really like to get my MPG over 20 but that's probably going to be a challenge in a semi-urban environment. Before watching the data with the Fusion app I've been getting a little over 18 on average, which feels not so great but is actually not so bad. Hoping I might be able to squeeze another 1.5 MPG out by easing up on my lead foot. :fingerscrossed:

FWIW, my wife and I have a few decades experience driving light-footed (were constantly trying to eek 50mpg out of our 2001 Jetta TDI), looks like our 4runner average is 19.5mpg in a rural environment. Granted, it's east-coast rural, so we're slowing down and speeding up every 3~7 miles for the next "town" or speed trap...

18mpg in the NoVA/DC area would be phenomenal (I spent 4 years living there myself in the 90's, had jobs from Ft Belvoir down south to Baltimore and lived in Adelphi, MD most of that time). The most important thing you can do to get a little more is to lay off the brakes. All they do is convert MPG into heat... so leave more following distance (lol, yeah right) so you can coast to slow down and try to learn how to read traffic lights so you don't have to stop. Or, just, you know, buy a more fuel efficient vehicle (heh, or drive less... I carpooled with 3 others for most of the time I worked in Baltimore and we took turns driving).
 
This was last week but I pulled my rear windshield wiper, sanded and gave it a few coats of semi gloss black. Also put tire valve caps on with Toyota logos on em that I got from Wish.
 
Explanation with number on the frame.

Hello Guys.

I sent my Toyota from Usa to Poland where I moved.
I try to register this car in my country but ofcourse because of stupid law I have problem to do this.
Toyota 4runner is build on the frame and regarding in our Law to make any inspection that yoy need to register your car that is build on the frame the VIN number (17 letters) that is on chassis must be the same on the frame.
But here is the problem because my VIN number on chassis is:
JT3GN87R010214074 and the number on the frame in the front on the passenger side behind the whhel is:
VZN180 ~ 0214074. Do sombody has any explanation or any contact where I could to write and get the help ?
I suppose that the last 7 letters on the frame, is the short number of the frame that are the same like last 7 letters on VIN number on the chassis. And the front VZN180 is only the model of 3gen toyota 2WD. But if I have right am I able to get any official confirmation and explanation from Toyota regarding this VIN on the frame. With this explanation I would be able to register my car in my own country.

Please answer me and get any good advice.

BR
MArek
 
Have you been working on the 4Runner lately? I remember you had lots of plans for the future. Of course the weather has been brutal lately which makes it not that fun. I did a wiring job yesterday putting in a switch to control my transmission and was not very comfortable...

so is this some kind of non factry switch....do tell
 
Hello Guys.

I sent my Toyota from Usa to Poland where I moved.
I try to register this car in my country but ofcourse because of stupid law I have problem to do this.
Toyota 4runner is build on the frame and regarding in our Law to make any inspection that yoy need to register your car that is build on the frame the VIN number (17 letters) that is on chassis must be the same on the frame.
But here is the problem because my VIN number on chassis is:
JT3GN87R010214074 and the number on the frame in the front on the passenger side behind the whhel is:
VZN180 ~ 0214074. Do sombody has any explanation or any contact where I could to write and get the help ?
I suppose that the last 7 letters on the frame, is the short number of the frame that are the same like last 7 letters on VIN number on the chassis. And the front VZN180 is only the model of 3gen toyota 2WD. But if I have right am I able to get any official confirmation and explanation from Toyota regarding this VIN on the frame. With this explanation I would be able to register my car in my own country.

Please answer me and get any good advice.

BR
MArek

The number on the frame is the frame number not the vin. Go to the site and print out the vin specs that should work
ToyoDIY.com
 

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Plasti-dipped my emblems black on my ‘01.
Still cleaning up.
It goes well with the TEQ front plate I added the other day.

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I still need plate frames and to replace the grill.
 
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New Bilsteins 4600's

Decided to put new shocks on 2000 4R today. After 21 years and 190k miles I figured it was about time.Will be giving it to my 16 year old son will be getting it soon. New tires to come soon also. Put new 4600 Bilsteins and gained a good 1"+ in height just with new shocks. Best vehicle I've ever had. Have a 4th & 5th gen but love the 3rd gen man!
 
Had a productive weekend. [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] was responsible for knocking out several mods on my list that I've been wanting to do for a long time but never got around to making time for.

Hood struts & phone mount installed thanks to [MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION] for developing relevant products that keep 3rd gen 4runners interesting. Especially want to thank Jziggy for hooking me up with these parts & for taking point on installation. I was very appreciative of his accuracy with measuring & steady handedness drilling. The quality & fit of Spiker Engineering's hood struts & phone mount are impressive. The parts have a nice pretty black finish that makes everything look like it belongs.

'96-'02 4Runner ULTIMATE Lift Hood Strut Kit - Spiker Engineering
Phone Mounts Archives - Spiker Engineering

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Also really appreciate Jziggy for rebuilding my door checks & credit him for discovering the parts & having the balls to experiment with a relatively unknown part from ebay. To my knowledge I have not heard of this before I saw him post about it. So far it has been a very cost effective solution to restoring tension in the door checks. My doors no longer close on me when I'm parked on an incline. I'd describe the increased tension from the rebuild kit similar to the way an older european car door feels. It'll be interesting to see how they hold up compared to OEM door checks but at $28 for the ebay rebuild kit which will do all 4 doors compared to OEM at $332+ ($83 x 4 doors), it was worth a try. He also provided parts for the side marker blinker mod, which I've especially been wanting to do for a long time, and did the wiring/installation. It's embarrassing how much I don't know when it comes to electrical so I was extra thankful (& relieved) that he took lead on that project too.

For Toyota 4RUNNER I-III Door Check Repair Kit (4 doors) Strap Stopper Replace | eBay
2002 Toyota 4Runner Door Check (Front). Body, Interior - 6861035010 | Cobb County Toyota, Kennesaw GA
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3593466-post392.html

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Put a headboard to a bed on my roof rack and drove across the earth to get it home. The things you’ll do for your wife…

I once drove up and down a trail, and then 4 hours home with an antique couch on my roof rack because the wife found it at a flea market early on during our trip… yeah, the things we do.
 
I added a torque converter 'unlock' switch. It allows me to unlock the torque convert and shift up a few hundred RPM's. Still working out the switch part as it throws a pending code but I have some more ideas to give the circuit a constant signal.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3656646-post328.html

how is this different than OD off switch 4runners came with? Isn't the purpose of that switch to lock out the torque converter? Did yours not come with that switch?...or am I missing something?


...side note...lets meet up! Citrus Heights to Antelope! We're basically neighbors haha:yo:
 
Meant to post this yesterday, but I filled up with 90 octane (mid-grade) non ethanol fuel. I’m on vacation and where I’m at offers non ethanol in that flavor, so I said why not. I’ve never, ever used anything other than regular 87 in my rig in the 8.5 years I’ve owned it, but so far good results. No knocking or anything out of the ordinary. I will say that it does seem to be a bit peppier, a bit more responsive at the pedal, but it could be all in my head. Either way I’m excited to see what kind of results it will yield
 
Yanked out my retrofit headlights and went back to the stock halogens. The TYC housings were starting to fall apart, crack, and just disintegrate. Not the actual light itself, but the mounting bracket that actually mounts to the core support. The angel eyes and LEDs in the shrouds were starting to fail too, so more reason to pull them. I'm gonna miss the cutoff and light output, but I have AUX lights if I need more.
 
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