What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Thanks for the link! This is good to know. So I'm wondering how they can install the rear cam plates without removing the steering rack. It looks like it will need to come out again to remove that bolt. I'm hoping I don't have to tear into the front end again for quite a while. Added to my future to-do list...
Since you've got to remove the cam bolts anyways I don't know how you'd do it without at last loosening the rack.

You might be able to bend the tab back up and weld behind it. They're not strong to begin with, and after they're bent I bet they bend easily.
 
Thanks for the link! This is good to know. So I'm wondering how they can install the rear cam plates without removing the steering rack. It looks like it will need to come out again to remove that bolt. I'm hoping I don't have to tear into the front end again for quite a while. Added to my future to-do list...
Mtbtim and infamous just did a video on changing LCA bushings. He was able to remove the rear camera plates by loosening the steering rack, undoing the rack boot and rotating the plate down. After that he was able to wiggle them out without damaging anything.

Edit: Heres a link to the post with video
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-toyota-4runner-diy-videos-8.html#post2534670

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Since you've got to remove the cam bolts anyways I don't know how you'd do it without at last loosening the rack.

You might be able to bend the tab back up and weld behind it. They're not strong to begin with, and after they're bent I bet they bend easily.

Tried to bend it back but it's way too strong. Used a big ball pen and punch etc. Wouldn't budge. I think I need to put some heat on it. The good thing is the eccentric didn't "need" that tab for the alignment. It was pushing up against the outboard tab. Quick clarification from you. It looks like they replace the old cam plates with new ones...correct?

BTW - you and I had a discussion about a year ago (when I replaced my poly bushings) on the 'mushrooming" of the outboard poly bushing in the rack and the additional washer. Just to follow-up with you, it looks fine. Haven't had a problem.

One more pic. Hate to clutter up this thread...I plan on putting this in my build with some step-by-steps...
 

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Mtbtim and infamous just did a video on changing LCA bushings. He was able to remove the rear camera plates by loosening the steering rack, undoing the rack boot and rotating the plate down. After that he was able to wiggle them out without damaging anything.

Edit: Heres a link to the post with video
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-toyota-4runner-diy-videos-8.html#post2534670

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks. Not my first rodeo with a steering rack. I pulled mine this time just to take a look at the bushings and my under carriage. I could've just loosened it up and slid it backwards like you said. They're not bad to either remove or loosen. It's about a 30 minute job with OTRE disconnected. Honestly, the thing I hate the most is the sway bar just so you can torque the center bolt. Swaybar clamps suck, even from the top. Plus with a lifted truck you have to deal with the diff drop to get the torque wrench in there. The rack itself is easy.

I'll have to check out [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] video later. He's contributed a lot to the site with his videos. Hopefully people take the time to do their homework and pay attention before starting new threads.
 
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] video later. He's contributed a lot to the site with his videos. Hopefully people take the time to do their homework and pay attention before starting new threads.

I always try to do my homework on new projects. Some might say I do too much homework to point of having "Analysis Paralysis".



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There should be no meta washer. For the sway bar bushings. Should be washer/rubber/truck mounting/rubber/washer.

Thanks for the confirmation on the mounting concern, I was wondering the same thing.

However, I'm also trying to confirm if longer rear sway bar links are needed in my case. Is the idea for the link to meet the swaybar at approximately a 90 degree angle?
 
For those that were following the WABDR trip and the Husqvarna that crashed into me back in August, I've got an update on the damage.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...rash-wabdr-section-3-ellensburg-cashmere.html

So Monday night after work I began my entire front suspension re-build, new LCA's with whitelines, new spindles with gussets. ITRE etc... What prompted me to begin this was the noise I heard in my drivers side front end every time I turned the wheel. Further investigation revealed a bad ITRE. Funny thing is I replaced those about two years ago. Befuzzled, I began the teardown and the rebuild...

When I went to install the drivers side LCA last night, I noticed the inboard stop where the rear adjustment eccentric goes was bent. Looking at the mounting bracket from outboard to inboard I also noticed the front of that bracket was bent rearward.

That explained why my drivers side tire was rubbing on the rear of the fender.

Yea, this sucks that a perfectly good 4runner that I've owned since the day it came out of the factory is damaged by a damn inconsiderate motorcycle rider. The only reassuring thing is, I know I can bring this back into alignment as was proven in Wenatchee.

Well hey, for what it's worth I now have most everything back together and I have a set of spindles for [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] sitting in my garage. I'll finish it up tonight.

Check out the last two photos to see how I re-installed the SPC bushings! Scared the daylights out of me. Was expecting the whole thing to go pop!


Notice how bent the inboard stop for the alignment eccentric is.
View attachment 228725


The forward part of the rear LCA attachment is also noticeable bent. I'm thankful that it can be brought into alignment. Hugo, over in Wenatchee did an awesome job. Once complete I'll bring the rig to Portland to get it aligned. There's a good shop over there.
View attachment 228726


Hey [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] , I now have your spindles sitting in my garage. It was VERY tricky installing the SPC Light Racing bushings into the new spindles with the gussets attached. Something to think about.
View attachment 228727

No room to put a cup behind the bushings with the gusset installed. Lesson learned. I knew it pressed in from the top but never really thought about how difficult it would be to put on the press.
View attachment 228731

I'm not sure what I would have done without my other set of jacks lying around. They were the perfect size to use to press between the spindle and the press. Again, something to think about before you weld your gussets on.
View attachment 228732

All that from that motorcycle crash ? Didn't really seem like he hit you that hard.

You did however managed to press in the bushings into the new spindle with gussets ? Why new spindles ? ( I'm welding my own with everything on it. Minus the LBJ....)

Were you trying to press out the bearing ?
 
Thanks for the confirmation on the mounting concern, I was wondering the same thing.

However, I'm also trying to confirm if longer rear sway bar links are needed in my case. Is the idea for the link to meet the swaybar at approximately a 90 degree angle?

I was told the sway bar should be kinda level with the rear axle. How much lift do you have ? [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] makes custom links. He can give you better advice.
 
Last Thur blew up my radiator.
<a href="http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/reelamin/media/IMG_3620_zpsbmmupti7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u494/reelamin/IMG_3620_zpsbmmupti7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_3620_zpsbmmupti7.jpg"/></a>

Since then did a gas test for leaking head gasket with half baked results.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/229040-96-3-4-radiator-blew-up.html

Now trying to determine if it's leaking into the cylinder. (Does not look like it)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/229291-what-cylinder-leaking.html
 
About 1" from the 99 coils in the rear.

I'm sorry huh? If you have lift in back. With stock sway bar links. It will really stretch the links in a odd position with the sway bar. That's why it's recommended to run extended links. Adjustable is the way the go though.
 
I was told the sway bar should be kinda level with the rear axle. How much lift do you have ? [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] makes custom links. He can give you better advice.

Your sway bar should be parallel with your LCA's, or as close as you can get it.
 
Did some math this morning when i filled up... 252 miles and the truck took 14.6 gallons. The truck seems to be averaging 17mpg if thats true. I was expecting around 14mpg, unless my math is off? Seems high for a lifted truck with 225,000 miles
 
Did some math this morning when i filled up... 252 miles and the truck took 14.6 gallons. The truck seems to be averaging 17mpg if thats true. I was expecting around 14mpg, unless my math is off? Seems high for a lifted truck with 225,000 miles

That's what I get with mixed highway. 19 all highway if flat. 14-15 city.
 
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