What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[tgreenwood75]

Just recently, I bought a welder and had been practicing how to weld various gauges of metal. So far, I still need to dial in my settings to optimize my welds and reduce bb's but I've learned to slow down and allow the puddles to penetrate the host metals to build a good weld. As far as aesthetics go, I still have a long way before any of my welds look like some instagram rainbow dime stacks:

*I'm debating on what kind of paint and color I should use for my rock sliders. I really like the bare steel look but rust is obviously an issue.

I'll be prepping the sliders by roughing them up, cleaning them and cleaning them again with a detergent and then isopropyl, and then some automotive primer.

I feel like a matte black is pretty much a standard.

I also have been thinking about a matching silver with my Limited trim; I'll use some skateboard paper for some additional grip on certain areas.

Not sure which way I'll go with it but I'll post an update once they're painted and on the Runner.

I love those sliders, I agree they look great in raw steel with your color scheme... I wonder how it would look to go with one of the hammered texture paints in some variant of grey? Might keep the appeal of the raw steel while protecting them. Maybe if you do a color besides black you could do a single long strip of clear griptape as to not have patches of black on your pretty sliders? Looking forward to seeing what you choose!

 

[shawnathan9]

[MENTION=150272]tgreenwood75[/MENTION] (Ended up going for Metallic/matte Gun Metal)


I spent a lot of time at Home Depot, this morning, contemplating what color I'll settle for the rock sliders.

I spoke to a guy working in the paint section, trying to get some feedback about the closest color to bare metal; Still couldn't get a good feel on what would really work so I ended up picking a few rattle cans of matte metallic nickel, flat black enamel, and a metallic gun metal grey.

I went home and did a few test sprays on a big cheater pipe I had sitting around and I finally settled for Gun Metal Grey.

The first stage of prep; I used some non-TSP cleaner and a scotch brite and got to work on the weld spots and scuffed up all the surfaces areas; Rinse, wash, and repeat several times:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NFmB6fP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/tHxrMnt/20210217-140001.jpg" alt="20210217-140001" border="0"></a>

I took another look with the painted cheater bar next to my scrubbed rock sliders for a final look and definitely wanted to go with Gun Metal Grey:
<a href="https://ibb.co/5skmNfF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vLhp7KY/20210217-140012.jpg" alt="20210217-140012" border="0"></a>

I really would have preferred to keep it bare but I didn't want to use Penetrol, clear coat only on bare metal, or use some Chrome paint. I take one last look at how amazing they look in bare steel:
<a href="https://ibb.co/5np284X"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/YynbkQ4/20210217-140015.jpg" alt="20210217-140015" border="0"></a>

I grabbed my heat gun and warmed up the steel to provide a better adhesion surface/environment for the primer as well as the base paint and topcoat later on.

A few shake, rattle, and spray cans of primer later, I took a break and let the primer settle in:
<a href="https://ibb.co/sRz8vyJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/YQwH7pT/20210217-155542.jpg" alt="20210217-155542" border="0"></a>

I took a deep breath and hoped that the Gun Metal will look as good on the rock sliders as it did on the cheater pipe and went to work.

A couple of coats later, I stood back and took it all in, and was totally satisfied that I went with this color instead of a matte black
<a href="https://ibb.co/Lxskpkg"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/N9GVYVN/20210217-161156.jpg" alt="20210217-161156" border="0"></a>

I went the extra step and added a matte topcoat/clear to protect the paint a bit further. I'm glad I went with a matte for the topcoat as I think that if it were glossy then I wouldn't have acheived the look I wanted:
<a href="https://ibb.co/ZYT3cdD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CM0qVBG/20210217-161206.jpg" alt="20210217-161206" border="0"></a>

I'm going to let these settle overnight and cure. My plan for tomorrow is to weld these guys on and use the matte black enamel to color over frame and mounting plate after the weld job's completed.

:flamethrwoer2:

 

[tgreenwood75]

[MENTION=150272]tgreenwood75[/MENTION] (Ended up going for Metallic/matte Gun Metal)

Those look beautiful! Really great color choice and clean execution. Are you still planning to grip tape them or are you too happy with the clean look?

Now get those welded up and go ruin the pretty paint job! :rockon:

 

[98snowrunner]

Put on eibach coils an struts not sure what I wanna do with the rear yet. Rides so nice in the front very impressed I think the old kybs were pretty tired.

 

[itskohler]

Ordered LBJs, again. First order they shipped the wrong ones amd didn't think to open the box until I had already ripped one of the lbjs off the 4runner.

 

[clearock]

 

[Ship Pusher]

That is about as good a weld as you’ll get using a stick welder. Most of those pretty welds are accomplished with either MIG or TIG machines. Besides, once you apply a couple coats of primer and top coat it’ll look just as good.

 

[spartacus]

View attachment 377149

Wow really neice.A340 with atlas II.

 

[shawnathan9]

Welded on Rock sliders

The paint still feels like it's not 100% cured but enough to handle it now.

So, the BAMF rock sliders had some unwelded seams, on the inner channel that were not covered by the primer or paint. In retrospect, I should have added a weld there because the area appears to be prone for water accumulation since the drain holes were not close enough to it

I either strip, weld, and repaint this area or I McGyver it with some gasket sealer. I chose the later:
<a href="https://ibb.co/7RFpqXW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/0F39xcM/20210218-105701.jpg" alt="20210218-105701" border="0"></a>

It's in a discrete area not visible when installed so I did some backyard repairs there. I really think it's a flaw that would've else wise caused rust in the future.

After that, I wire brushed, to bare metal, both the area of the frame and the outer areas of the mount plates; Tack welded the slider in a position that would provide the most wheel clearance:
<a href="https://ibb.co/q0SSKsM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cbBB0Fc/20210218-092853.jpg" alt="20210218-092853" border="0"></a>

And through the wizardry of welding, on goes the them Sliders, with a kick!
<a href="https://ibb.co/44zHjzZ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/j3mSLmv/20210218-104510.jpg" alt="20210218-104510" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/RpG5BdD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6Rcd1LW/20210218-145729.jpg" alt="20210218-145729" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/6wvwdkP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fF8Fcsp/20210218-145711.jpg" alt="20210218-145711" border="0"></a>

I should have checked door clearance when test fitting as, after I painted over the welds, I attempted to open my rear door and noticed that they wouldn't open...



It appears that because I have Limitied trim that the flare on the bottom of the rear doors would hit the sliders that tilt 10 degrees upward.

So I did what anyone who just welded on some sliders would do and busted out my trusty dremel and shaved of a few centimeters of fender flare

It was a unnoticeable trim that worked out perfectly.
<a href="https://ibb.co/vBBTrfs"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cvvZpRb/20210218-145734.jpg" alt="20210218-145734" border="0"></a>

Can I get a Hell yeah!?!? The Matte Metallic Gun Metal gray has a sheen that works perfectly with my silver cladding. :cheers:


I saved $200 just by painting them myself and about $300 for the prep and weld work I did on my own. That itself pays for the welder I picked up.

Now I've got to start hunting for some metal scraps and pipes to eventually craft a roof rack together. :guitar2:

 

[Danni]

After 5 years I am finally starting to make my girl happy. Guy is coming tomorrow to black satin her original rims, fog lights, backup cam in the rear view mirror, new floor mats, new girly license plate, i have plastic dip to see if I want black or chrome emblems, and finally getting rid of the “wood” trim that was original. Just showing my girl some love.

 

[Hardizzy]

After 5 years I am finally starting to make my girl happy. Guy is coming tomorrow to black satin her original rims, fog lights, backup cam in the rear view mirror, new floor mats, new girly license plate, i have plastic dip to see if I want black or chrome emblems, and finally getting rid of the “wood” trim that was original. Just showing my girl some love.

What's her name?

 

[Danni]

What's her name?

Funny you should ask, she acquired her name the first week I had her. The B!tch, not sure if I am allowed to say that here. She just kept taking in the beginning, now she is bada$$.

 

[MrBill]

Headlights

Replaced a fuse in my 97. Wanted to install my HID assembly from headlightexperts.com but that’s a joke. Their customer service sucks 1000%. I’ll never go they them again. Looking at a different route now. Changed my rear wiper blade also.

 

[sean.turner.1238]

Got my right side head removed trying to find the reason I'm smoking coolant through the exhaust. No crazy tears or anything on the gasket, just some goop buildup. The head is slightly warped I'm gonna diy machine it

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[shawnathan9]

Welded on Eimkeith PCK

I've had these sitting around for a while and decided that my welding skills are decent enough to create a weld good enough, good penetration, to work on some structural welds.

So, I pulled out my Eimkeith PCK that have been sitting on my shelf for the past 2 months.

The Panhard bar was really easy to unbolt and remove; began to test fit the parts and everything looked good:
<a href="https://ibb.co/xfgJ0tf"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/YydpMFy/20210219-102905.jpg" alt="20210219-102905" border="0"></a>

Still, I feel that my welds could use some work so I not only welded the outer seams but also the inner seams of the PCK so as to ensure that the gaps were closed; Didn't want to crawl into that space to show you the inner welds but here's the right side: I got a little ugly in the middle but I'll settle since I had the other side covered as well:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NFMKMjH"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/51PLP8f/20210220-111013.jpg" alt="20210220-111013" border="0"></a>

The driver side, I took a second pass on the outside and just one pass on the inner end of the bracket; The welds look thick but they did penetrate well:
<a href="https://ibb.co/PWhYjt9"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fNpSFQn/20210220-110959.jpg" alt="20210220-110959" border="0"></a>

I'll be doing spot checks every gas fill to see how well my welds hold but I'm confident enough about it. The rear end does feel much for static and feels really good when taking corners. I just hit the freeway and it doesn't feel squirrely, at the rear, when driving fast. :car:

I also did some more fender trimming and cutting of the wheel well molding; This time, I removed the coil/struts and checked how much rubbing there would be at full flex :jump:

 

[itskohler]

Hit a bump and got my clock back

 

[Smog-guy707]

The 96 took over the load warrior duties and got weathertech floor mats. The 02 sport got a new alternator.

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[RoxToy00]

ok, i appreciate the research and development and manufacturing and parts specing/sourcing that goes into OEM parts. BUT WHY IN THE HELL do Toyota parts cost so much more than aftermarket parts??? Just priced parts for a tune-up on my 2000 4runner 3.4 V6 (plugs, wires, coil packs), and figured may as well replace the injectors while i was at it, as I would have to make the same tear-down for injector replacement that has to be done for a tune-up (appears the original injectors were still in service ay 240K miles, bless 'em). But $560 for parts !!!??? Plus another $800+ for labor???!!! For a ****ing tune-up???!!! Am I in some kind of nightmare???!!!
I did some research/checking (semi-retired attorney, computer research has made me a lot of money) and found NEW injectors, spec dual electro plugs, 3 coil packs and wires, and the throttle body and plenum gaskets (necessary replacements when you take the fuel injection system apart to get to the coil packs and plugs), all for less than $200 delivered to my door, on Ebay.
Yes, I would rather buy from the dealer. Yes, I would love to have that close relationship with people I would like to depend on to maintain my daily transportation. Yes. I have bought a few beers for dealer service managers and dealer techs in my past years. And I have learned, and I am sure the reader knows, to build a $30K car from the parts sourced from the dealership parts department would cost $100K. A real pity, and an open secret.
I cut my teeth wrenching on '60s and '70s muscle and "fun" cars. After watching Timmy the Tool Man and a few other videos, I see nothing to prevent me from tuning up this little fuel-injected V6, but dealer parts prices are OUTRAGEOUS. I understand "Toyota reliability" that is engineered into, and expected from, the branded parts. But when shop managers tell me they regularly use Ebay parts to cut overhead, why should I pay dealer service prices for something I can do myself, with the same Ebay parts??

 

[RoxToy00]

Whay I did to my 3rd gen 4runner today

ok, i appreciate the research and development and manufacturing and parts specing/sourcing that goes into OEM parts. BUT WHY IN THE HELL do Toyota parts cost so much more than aftermarket parts??? Just priced parts for a tune-up on my 2000 4runner 3.4 V6 (plugs, wires, coil packs), and figured may as well replace the injectors while i was at it, as I would have to make the same tear-down for injector replacement that has to be done for a tune-up (appears the original injectors were still in service ay 240K miles, bless 'em). But $560 for parts !!!??? Plus another $800+ for labor???!!! For a ****ing tune-up???!!! Am I in some kind of nightmare???!!!
I did some research/checking (semi-retired attorney, computer research has made me a lot of money) and found NEW injectors, spec dual electro plugs, 3 coil packs and wires, and the throttle body and plenum gaskets (necessary replacements when you take the fuel injection system apart to get to the coil packs and plugs), all for less than $200 delivered to my door, on Ebay.
Yes, I would rather buy from the dealer. Yes, I would love to have that close relationship with people I would like to depend on to maintain my daily transportation. Yes. I have bought a few beers for dealer service managers and dealer techs in my past years. And I have learned, and I am sure the reader knows, to build a $30K car from the parts sourced from the dealership parts department would cost $100K. A real pity, and an open secret.
I cut my teeth wrenching on '60s and '70s muscle and "fun" cars. After watching Timmy the Tool Man and a few other videos, I see nothing to prevent me from tuning up this little fuel-injected V6, but dealer parts prices are OUTRAGEOUS. I understand "Toyota reliability" that is engineered into, and expected from, the branded parts. But when shop managers tell me they regularly use Ebay parts to cut overhead, why should I pay dealer service prices for something I can do myself, with the same Ebay parts??

 

[Danni]

After 5 years I am finally starting to make my girl happy. Guy is coming tomorrow to black satin her original rims, fog lights, backup cam in the rear view mirror, new floor mats, new girly license plate, i have plastic dip to see if I want black or chrome emblems, and finally getting rid of the “wood” trim that was original. Just showing my girl some love.

And today she put on her big girl panties and we took off the OEM running boards!