What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[gamefreakgc]

Not a big deal to leave them how they are but you can tighten them more. The grease doesn’t really impact it. The bushings should be squished out to the diameter of the washers. Also the nut should hit the end of the thread on the stud and bottom out around that point.

Wait really? To the size of the washers?

 

[3bears]

Good to know, thank you!

I thought it was 25 ft pounds on those

 

[aldanson]

Installed a new 3rd brake light. Gave me a chance to clean the casing too.

 

[JZiggy]

Wait really? To the size of the washers?

That’s the recommendation I’ve always used for captive bushings like that on tops of shocks and stuff too.

 

[fourfive]

I thought it was 25 ft pounds on those

For the sway bar links, it's 14 ft/lbs for the top nut, 51 ft/lbs for the bottom.

 

[3bears]

For the sway bar links, it's 14 ft/lbs for the top nut, 51 ft/lbs for the bottom.

opps, then I over did mine last week to get near the squish

 

[3bears]

That’s the recommendation I’ve always used for captive bushings like that on tops of shocks and stuff too.

me too most of the time....unless im really afraid of busting something. I took mine to 25 last week, and it did not go outside the washer....hard rubber...aftermarket....was not happy with design of bushing anyway

 

[fourfive]

Not a big deal to leave them how they are but you can tighten them more. The grease doesn’t really impact it. The bushings should be squished out to the diameter of the washers. Also the nut should hit the end of the thread on the stud and bottom out around that point.

Good tip on what to visually look for. When I torqued the top nut on my rear shocks to the recommended 14 ft/lbs the bushings basically squished out to the diameter of the washers.

On my aftermarket end links I get to about 8 ft/lbs before the bushings compress to that point but when I had my factory links, 14 would get me there. I've seen it recommended on the aftermarket end links that I have to not overly squish the bushings but my logic was if they aren't compressed enough that would increase the likelihood of the stud moving around & potentially wallowing out the mounting hole.

 

[fourfive]

opps, then I over did mine last week to get near the squish

Something just to consider but I'm guessing that the further parts/bushings stray from the factory design, the torque spec recommendations may become less applicable. In those situations I'll basically place more value on how things feel & look when tightening.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Something just to consider but I'm guessing that the further parts/bushings stray from the factory design, the torque spec recommendations may become less applicable. In those situations I'll basically place more value on how things feel & look when tightening.

That's a good point. I did 14lbs/ft on my end links but the bushings are not rubber so it probably is not enough.

 

[Ted02]

I know there are torque specs, but I never understood how parts with rubber or poly could be accurately torqued? I’ve always just gone with visual and feel, and never had a problem.

 

[fourfive]

I know there are torque specs, but I never understood how parts with rubber or poly could be accurately torqued? I’ve always just gone with visual and feel, and never had a problem.

My guess on factory recommended torque specs for parts with bushings take into account the amount of compression for oem parts since they are probably manufactured to a more consistent density compared to the variability on aftermarket parts but still think being aware of how things look & feel when tightening are important. I generally use the factory torque specs as a baseline & will make adjustments as needed.

 

[LV2001BI]

Replaced my passenger side CV axel

A few days ago I noticed an oil leak under the right front wheel a quick inspection found a torn CV booth. I had called a local shop to get them to do the job but I was quoted $500 so I decided to just spent $184 on a new CV axel, inner seal, oil seal removal tool, a set o of 3/8” drive Allen sockets and a 2”PVC union to properly seat the new seal. I had used PVC coupling in the past to install new camshaft and front crank oil seal. I want to share this with the greater community .

 

[3bears]

A few days ago I noticed an oil leak under the right front wheel a quick inspection found a torn CV booth. I had called a local shop to get them to do the job but I was quoted $500 so I decided to just spent $184 on a new CV axel, inner seal, oil seal removal tool, a set o of 3/8” drive Allen sockets and a 2”PVC union to properly seat the new seal. I had used PVC coupling in the past to install new camshaft and front crank oil seal. I want to share this with the greater community .

thanks for sharing that, I knew there had to be some size pvc that would fit the seal well....now if it just had a cap so when you smack it in the center to drive the seal in
again, thanks

 

[3bears]

sold my 2001.....mixed emotions....but at least i got my 2000

 

[jsluse]

Got front tires and an alignment. Over the past two weekends I replaced the upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods and rack and pinion bushings (blown out, the rack would move side to side). The loose bushings and bad ball joints caused a lot of wear on the tires. Got a new battery too. Good day. I’m doing the timing belt, ignition packs and drive belts next week

 

[LV2001BI]

I was able to just tap in the seal then when 80% was seated I just used more force. I check each time to make sure it was flush since the old one was also flush. If you want a cap just trace the surface on a 3/8” plywood & cut with a jog saw and glue in on or drill 2 small holes and use a counter sunk screw.

 

[5VZ-FE]

 

[3bears]

your half way there

 

[Breaker Bar]

Bumped up to the third perch on the Bilsteins. Front end was a bit squishy and saggy after I bolted up my AOR plate bumper….