What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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I blew the head gasket on my 3rd gen 4Runner

sorry, lots of posts on this topic, some people do engine swaps rather than head gaskets. Around here the local wrecker has 3 engines and they are about 600 each, but all over 150k miles...and there is JDM engines that are supposed to be low miles but more money.
 
as shown above,...a plug kit would not have done a thing for that. My daughet in law got a nail that went almost sideways into the tread, and it was impossible to plug ( we tried).
At least haveing the wrong size spare will get you home, in 2wd.
I carry a spare. but when I hit the outback, i carry a plug kit and a portable compressor too

Also, trying to plug a tire that doesn't have an obvious nail indicating the location of the leak, especially on the rear tire, while it is still on the vehicle at night using a cell phone flashlight & trying to get enough leverage to get good seal with the plug while lying on your side or reaching through the wheel well sucks and can take a while.
 
Also, trying to plug a tire that doesn't have an obvious nail indicating the location of the leak, especially on the rear tire, while it is still on the vehicle at night using a cell phone flashlight & trying to get enough leverage to get good seal with the plug while lying on your side or reaching through the wheel well sucks and can take a while.

Yep - I'd rather carry a full size spare on a rack or inside and a charged 20v+ cordless impact with a 21mm socket ready to go....

hmm.... 21 or 19 - I forget, but it's in my bag with the air compressor and accessories. I even carry a set of lug lock defeaters in case I encounter someone in a situation that calls for it....


Oh yeah, I installed a full set of Duro Bumps.
 
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I am going to replace the wiring pigtail connectir for my blinkers on the bumper

I have a 1997 4Runner the wires that went to the right turn signal light in the bumper melted i replaced the blinker assembly but I had to tape the wires inside the connector due to not finding the pigtail I need help finding the model/part number of this connector
 

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I have a 1997 4Runner the wires that went to the right turn signal light in the bumper melted i replaced the blinker assembly but I had to tape the wires inside the connector due to not finding the pigtail I need help finding the model/part number of this connector

Is it the plastic connector housing that's broken? If that's the case, there should be a 5 digit number on the housing. Put 90980 before it & that's the part number for the housing. You can use a depinning tool to remove the old housing & install the new one but when I did it the old housing started to break apart.

Here's a link with some pictures when I replaced a connector.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3424245-post27.html

It was the wires that melted? How'd it happen?
 
Is it the plastic connector housing that's broken? If that's the case, there should be a 5 digit number on the housing. Put 90980 before it & that's the part number for the housing. You can use a depinning tool to remove the old housing & install the new one but when I did it the old housing started to break apart.

Here's a link with some pictures when I replaced a connector.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3424245-post27.html

It was the wires that melted? How'd it happen?

The vehicle has electrical issues and a high voltage went through the entire blinker fuse when I had right turn signal on I fixed the short it was a wire shorting to the frame of the chassis of the vehicle.
It is the wire shown in the picture I attached

I have no way of plugging in the blinker so I had to tape the wires to the blinker pins on the assembly the whole wire melted and the connector melted to the old assembly so I had to cut it and add some new wires but I have no pigtail for the blinker now this cable and connector has no numbers on it anywhere

Gray 2-pin Turn signal Connector Pigtail for Subaru JDM Legacy Outback | eBay

I need another one of these shown in this image the wires and pigtail so I can plug the pigtail in but this one is already sold but when I look at manufacturer part number on listing it shows custom made subaru connector which toyota shares but it has no number

I have no blinker pigtail to plug in so I had to tape the wires inside the connector on the assembly every time I hit a pothole or a bump the wires move and my blinker stops working

If you see the image attached this is how I had to tape my wires to my blinker
I need the connector same one as show on the ebay link every little bump the tape comes loose and it is annoying What I did is I put wires in there like it is shown in image then put tape inside and around it to hold the wires in place but it doesnt do a good job

So All I have is a left turn signal not a right one you can see the hazard light is on only one side lights up
 

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Big day for me I guess...I finally got my Magnaflow Overland (#19538) Cat back installed and she sounds great.. I don't know what all the "noise" is about(pun definitely intended) I decided NOT to use the resonator just cap on the end of the actual muffler. it's really not bad at all. If I used the Resonator it would be a lot quieter. When i can i'll UL some files.
 
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IMG_1761.jpeg


Over the weekend I discovered gear oil leaking from my rear differential. This is something that I was expecting would happen. The thin sheet metal that forms the cover over the back of the differential has rusted to the point that there in now a leak from a pin hole rust-through. I even bought a weld-on replacement cover a few months ago in anticipation of this day.

Today I begin the job of taking the axle assembly out of the truck. The first problem I ran into was that the spare tire could not be dropped down due to the hoist/hanger being frozen from corrosion. My quick solution was to grind the tip of the cable off where it passes through the hanger bracket. It was quick and easy and the tire came right down. The next thing I did was disconnect the driveshaft and cut the sway bar links (there would’ve been no saving them). The shocks are going to be the same way

When I get the axle assembly out of the truck I’m going to totally strip it so that I can cut the old cover off and get the whole works over to a welder to get that new cover installed.

Now here’s the question that I have for the group. The shocks, the sway bar links, the spare tire carrier all are being sacrificed to rust. What should I expect from the control arm links? Are the bolts going to be rusted permanently to the bushing sleeves? And if they are, what are some solutions for dealing with the problem?

diffcover.png
 
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Big day for me I guess...I finally got my Magnaflow Overland (#19538) Cat back installed and she sounds great.. I don't know what all the "noise" is about(pun definitely intended) I decided NOT to use the resonator just cap on the end of the actual muffler. it's really not bad at all. If I used the Resonator it would be a lot quieter. When i can i'll UL some files.

I agree. I ended up with the cap on the muffler and I like the mildly malevolent growl (for a 6 banger anyway). I will pop the J+resonator back on only if I can get the family in it again for a long road trip. They are tall and the TR4 just wasn't designed for them. Once may have been it. Oh well.....
 
Cleaned the MAF sensor, throttle body and the IAC valve. Truck was idling at 1500rpm when warm. After 368,000 miles I guess it was time! All squared away now. Figured out you can't reuse that rubber gasket for the IAC valve! :mad2:

Good to know! I was considering doing this soon
 
I pulled the rear axle assembly so I can weld a replacement back cover on it to repair an oil leak. Rust sucks. Was surprised that the bolts that hold the suspension links came out so easily. I expected them to be rusted solid like the leaf spring eye bolts on my 1st gen 4runners. In fact I only broke one bolt on the whole job so far, a small one that secured a brake line bracket.

Need to install some shocks, springs, brake lines and sway bar links while I’ve got it all apart. Maybe suspension links too. Definitely going to clean up the axle housing and paint it.

994runner_axel_repair.jpeg
 
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I agree. I ended up with the cap on the muffler and I like the mildly malevolent growl (for a 6 banger anyway). I will pop the J+resonator back on only if I can get the family in it again for a long road trip. They are tall and the TR4 just wasn't designed for them. Once may have been it. Oh well.....

I figured that if i started with the "loudest" i can always go backwards. There's no need having come from the TRD exhaust this is a little bit more aggressive. The way folks were talking it was supposed to be the loudest in the world. I knew when it came off the rack and i heard it this was the setting for me. Now i have a garage full of parts that i know i will never use. * now to change my Signature!
 
When I bought my 4Runner a couple years ago I didn’t notice that the OEM jack and the tire change tool kit were missing. So yesterday when I wanted to lower my spare tire to get it out of the way to do some work on the rear axle I was reminded that I didn’t have those items. So I made a call to my friendly local auto wrecker to inquire about the availability of the stuff. Well it turned out that they had a kit from a Sequoia that they would let me have for $40. I think that’s a screaming deal. I see jacks alone going for $75 on eBay, and the tool kit for similar. I have been finding some crazy deals on 3rd GEN parts lately.

It turned out that my spare tire carrier/hoist was frozen. I ended up having to cut the end of the cable off where it comes through the hangar. When I have needed these in the past I find that my best bet is to look on eBay and try to find somebody outside of the rust belt who has a nice clean used part.

Jack_toolkit.jpeg
 
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Due to a goof, I re-replaced my lower ball joints. First time around I didn’t do enough research and bought a crappy kit off of Ebay about 8 months ago, I felt a bit silly afterward so I bought OEM ones and redid the lower ball joint’s.

Next up: the driveshaft.
 
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