What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Yesterday I put on new Denso wipers and replaced all 3 coil packs with Denso ones from RockAuto. Was experiencing this “jumping” or “skipping” feeling around 50 MPH. We’ll see if this gives me the results I’m looking for. So far, so good
 
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OK - Here is the only 'mod' I've done lately - a little cobbled together eBay-parts dune flag holder because I heard they were required on the Mojave Rasor dunes. I was they only one with a flag. Oh well. Reminded me of the short-lived bicycle-flag law they had for a minute when I was a kid. Team Dork.

Def not a SICMOD but I have a rare t-shirt and that's SIIIIIC.
 

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I made a couple mounts for my hi-lift I never use, and inadvertantly fixed my cargo dome light.
 

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Replaced the left rear door lock actuator motor for the second time in year and a half. A set of four motors are pretty cheap on eBay. Hope this is a case of one bad one in a thousand, and not a sign of overall cheap quality? Not many options out there other than buying pricy complete actuators!
 
Got some new wheels/tires, and a list of maintenance completed:

Fluids (F&R diff, trans, coolant, brake)
New steering rack bushings (highly recommend!)
F&R sway bar bushings
F&R sway bar links
Alignment

Next up: BXBuild headlights
 

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A little Nebraska Nice passive aggression towards the millions of pristine 5th gen TRD roofrack editions here in suburbia :D. Ran out of spit to write the "offroad" part. Should really give it a wash tomorrow.

I actually love seeing all these garage kept, weekly detailed, dealer maintained TRDs because I'm going to have and endless supply of high mileage beater 5th gens over the next decades. I'm grateful to the guy who bought my 3rd gen new for taking good care of it like he did.

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I'm greeted to scenes like this on a daily basis. Magnetically drawn to ancestral spirits I guess. I get a kick out of it. Hardly ever see other 3rd gens around here though.

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mounted my winter wheels/tires just in time this morning....been snowing all afetrnoon and supposed to get 8 inches in the next 2 days.....winter hits a few weeks early this year for me here in Alaska.
so gald i test my 4wd and locker on a weekly basis the past few weeks...gonna need them for the next 6 months.
 
Did the steering rack mod where you connect the collapsible portion. Drilled out the plastic pins to put in a roll pin just to have a drill bit break off right in the middle :( so I ended up sticking about 1/4” of roll pin on each side I’ll see how it holds up. Also replaced my “D” dash light and cleaned my blinker contacts so my right blinker works again!
 
Did the steering rack mod where you connect the collapsible portion. Drilled out the plastic pins to put in a roll pin just to have a drill bit break off right in the middle :( so I ended up sticking about 1/4” of roll pin on each side I’ll see how it holds up. Also replaced my “D” dash light and cleaned my blinker contacts so my right blinker works again!

That drive dash light has been on my list for about...3 yrs now. I should really get on that.
 
New rear sway bar bushings and new end links. Took longer that it should have since I live in the rust belt. Bottom bushing bolts on both sides had to be drilled and retapped. And of course had to Sawzall off the old links.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
I made a simple cargo cover out of two pieces of PVC, a tarp, and some bungee cords. Here are the parts, in case anyone's interested ...

PVC Front: 53" of 1" diameter Schedule 40
PVC Rear: 50" of 3/4" diameter Schedule 40

I painted both of pieces of PVC "Textured Black" (Krylon).

I got the tarp from Jeff for about $40. Link:

Tarp, Heavy Duty, Waterproof, 18 Oz. Vinyl w/Reinforced Edges (3' X 4' Feet, Black) - - Amazon.com

The tarp came with gold-color grommets, which I painted black.

The tarp's dimension are 4' x 3'.

Bungee cords came from Lowes:

SmartStrap (24") for the front, to connect to the two metal loops near the doors behind the rear passenger seats, and SmartStrap Adjustable Toggle Balls to connect to the two metal loops in the back.

I put two screws in the front PVC, about 3.6" from each side, in order to keep the tarp spread tight. I painted the screws with Carbon Black from Michael's.

Total cost was less than $75. Here's a pic from the back seat looking back ....
 

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Used a hood latch to make a rear hatch release. Not the cleanest but it works great
 

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Need help squishy brakes!

So I’ve been having this problem for awhile now. I’ve properly bled my brakes probably 20 times, went to a gravel road to activate the ABS and then bled the brakes after, yet my brakes will not start working until about half way pushed down. I disconnected the battery for about an hour and then the brakes worked perfectly for like 10 mins. Now they’re back to squishy. Anyone have any ideas??
 
Measured tread depth, located the lowest tire, and rotated all 5 tires, putting the lowest on the swingout.

Also bled brakes while I was at it, good to get the old fluid out ever 4 or 5 years. It slowly gets contaminated with water and will boil more easily, and if it gets bad enough, can start rusting things internally. Which is not good.

This went well on the first 3 out of 4 brakes, until I got to the FR wheel (the one with the lowest tread, so I did it last). And the bleeder was *STUCK*. Yeah... I live in the salt belt, and it's a fight keeping the 4Runner from rusting away. A long, slow, losing battle.

Anyhow, I tried PBLaster, tapped on with a small hammer to help it penetrate, gently tried turning the bleeder in both directions (for some reason, going a *tiny* bit in the tighter direction often helps really stuck bolts). And... yeah, it broke off. So I decided to fuss with it a bit more, easy out in the hole, vice grips on the nub, wiggle, wiggle, yay, it broke free! Lol, JK, it did what usually happens when you resort to trying easy outs, the easy out breaks.

So FINE, I'll just not bleed that corner. But I wanted to make sure I hadn't managed to get that bleeder to leak, so after a very firm press on the pedal revealed no leaks, I went to put the wheel back on and discovered the brakes were dragging slightly. So in addition to a newly broken bleeder, it's sticky too? Two strikes is more than enough for a brake caliper. Ordered a new caliper. This has the 231mm Tundra brakes, I put them on maybe 8 or 9 years ago. No complaints, they were dirt cheap Rock Auto calipers to begin with.
 
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So I’ve been having this problem for awhile now. I’ve properly bled my brakes probably 20 times, went to a gravel road to activate the ABS and then bled the brakes after, yet my brakes will not start working until about half way pushed down. I disconnected the battery for about an hour and then the brakes worked perfectly for like 10 mins. Now they’re back to squishy. Anyone have any ideas??
What's your year/make/model? What did you do to your vehicle to need the brakes bled? At any point did the brake fluid reservoir get really low of empty?
 
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