What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[camit34]

1997 New To Me!

I purchased it...!!!

Took me a couple of months to find a pre-facelift 3rd Gen in a manual that was not trashed out.

I got super lucky and found this '97 that also has the rear locker. 2 owner with 240,200 miles. Runs and drives almost perfect and looks great!

Promptly drove over to the WeatherTech store and picked up some floor mats, rotated the tires (needed it badly but tires are good shape overall) and finished putting 74 miles on it by swinging over to Tokyo Joes for some good grub.

 

[2chains]

Added front skid plate. Only got 4 of 5 bolts but made sure to add anti-seize to them. Looks like bolt broke off at some point.
Going to leave back piece off for now. Trying to decide if I should paint it and what color..maybe hammered black?

 

[flyfisher117]

New steering rack day. Drives like she's 10 years younger now. Ha

 

[CrudRunner]

Tried to get my damn truck running again. Had high hopes to replace steering rack bushings and sway bar bushings. But it didn't want to run so I could move it in place to crawl under. So here is my situation, it is also listed in another thread here. Apologies if this isn't allowed here.

'97 with 3.4l and 5speed. 359k miles. Owned truck for 3 years now, been great. Recently with a move to a colder climate it has been hard starting when cold in the morning, but would always start. Cleaning the IAC and TB has been on my to-do list since moving here. I did an oil change and new plugs last week since it was due, and the starting got better. Yesterday I finally got the time to clean IAC and TB, and installed new gaskets. Was expecting good things, got no things. Truck will not start. I get fuel, and managed to flood the engine while cranking. I get spark. Truck cranks real good, and occasionally shudders like it wants to start but doesn't. Everything that I unplugged to remove the TB has been plugged back in. All connections between all SPW's has been cleaned. I even removed my newish MAF and installed my old one to rule that out. Same issue. All fuses are good. No CEL. Code reader shows no codes.
The last time it ran was morning of 11/13/2021 it started easily despite the cold, I jumped out sooner then normal to let it idle warm up and it stalled and died. Wouldn't restart regardless of what I did. Typically in the morning I have to keep foot on gas for 2-3 minutes or it will stall. Yesterday I did not, it seemed to be doing fine until it sputter stalled.
Starting fluid makes no difference.
I'm at a loss.
Anyone with more brain power then me got any ideas? Read thru many forum posts, which are similar. Followed all steps I'm able to.
I even yelled at it in English and Italian, don't know any Japanese. In tried to pour some beer on the bumper in case it was thirsty, I also threatened to buy a Nissan. Nothing helped.

 

[Devbot]

Tried to get my damn truck running again. Had high hopes to replace steering rack bushings and sway bar bushings. But it didn't want to run so I could move it in place to crawl under. So here is my situation, it is also listed in another thread here. Apologies if this isn't allowed here.

'97 with 3.4l and 5speed. 359k miles. Owned truck for 3 years now, been great. Recently with a move to a colder climate it has been hard starting when cold in the morning, but would always start. Cleaning the IAC and TB has been on my to-do list since moving here. I did an oil change and new plugs last week since it was due, and the starting got better. Yesterday I finally got the time to clean IAC and TB, and installed new gaskets. Was expecting good things, got no things. Truck will not start. I get fuel, and managed to flood the engine while cranking. I get spark. Truck cranks real good, and occasionally shudders like it wants to start but doesn't. Everything that I unplugged to remove the TB has been plugged back in. All connections between all SPW's has been cleaned. I even removed my newish MAF and installed my old one to rule that out. Same issue. All fuses are good. No CEL. Code reader shows no codes.
The last time it ran was morning of 11/13/2021 it started easily despite the cold, I jumped out sooner then normal to let it idle warm up and it stalled and died. Wouldn't restart regardless of what I did. Typically in the morning I have to keep foot on gas for 2-3 minutes or it will stall. Yesterday I did not, it seemed to be doing fine until it sputter stalled.
Starting fluid makes no difference.
I'm at a loss.
Anyone with more brain power then me got any ideas? Read thru many forum posts, which are similar. Followed all steps I'm able to.
I even yelled at it in English and Italian, don't know any Japanese. In tried to pour some beer on the bumper in case it was thirsty, I also threatened to buy a Nissan. Nothing helped.

Did you happen to mix up the IAC's vacuum line and coolant port that are directly next to one another? That would be my guess if things went from 100-0 immediately.

 

[WhatThePuck]

Went camping for a night! My hiking backpack, cooler, everything I needed all in the back and I was absolutely comfortable. I bought one of those half inch pads since it was just one night, but have my eyes set on this 4 season self-inflating pad for long weekends.

 

[JohnMc]

Drove home last night with no low-beams. It was about a 4.5 hour drive in total yesterday, with about 2, 2.5 in the dark. Early on in the night driving I noticed the driver side headlight was out. Not a lot of light out the front, and then I could see light on the bumper hoop on the passenger side, not the driver side. No big deal, it happens, I'll just replace it when I get home.

Then, while at a gas station, when I started the car to leave, I could se the reflection of the front of the truck in the gas station windows. Turned on the key, the passenger headlight lit up for about a half second and went out too. WTF? What are the odds. So.. sorry other people, had to drive another hour or so back with the high beams on. Late Sunday evening so not much of a chance to stop and get new bulbs in rural Missouri. At least the headlights are aimed a bit on the low side, didn't seem to be blasting other people too badly.

 

[jeff88]

Finally got around to changing the front sway bar bushings. One was cracked so it was definitely past time.

Used the Energy Suspension polyurethane kit

The red bushings work well with the Rancho coilovers

 

[3bears]

replaced my brake booster check valve. in this climate when they get old they dont work good. brake pedal can be like pushing a brick through a floor. they get condensation etc and over time it mucks up the inside. luckily I had a new one on shelf. yes you can clean them with wd40 and air etc. took the old one and could barely push air through it. this is not the first time i have had one get funky on me.
so my advice to cold weather folks....extreme codl weather....if your doing any
other work ....take 10 minutes...pull the valve...blow it out and oil it as preventative. that worked for me in the past. but if going new
i did not replace the grommet....so dont know that #. valve is 44730-60060

 

[Bad Luck]

replaced my brake booster check valve. in this climate when they get old they dont work good. brake pedal can be like pushing a brick through a floor. they get condensation etc and over time it mucks up the inside. luckily I had a new one on shelf. yes you can clean them with wd40 and air etc. took the old one and could barely push air through it. this is not the first time i have had one get funky on me.
so my advice to cold weather folks....extreme codl weather....if your doing any
other work ....take 10 minutes...pull the valve...blow it out and oil it as preventative. that worked for me in the past. but if going new
i did not replace the grommet....so dont know that #. valve is 44730-60060

Grommet for the brake booster check valve is 90480-24015 if you want to replace it

 

[Toaster134]

Tried to get my damn truck running again. Had high hopes to replace steering rack bushings and sway bar bushings. But it didn't want to run so I could move it in place to crawl under. So here is my situation, it is also listed in another thread here. Apologies if this isn't allowed here.

'97 with 3.4l and 5speed. 359k miles. Owned truck for 3 years now, been great. Recently with a move to a colder climate it has been hard starting when cold in the morning, but would always start. Cleaning the IAC and TB has been on my to-do list since moving here. I did an oil change and new plugs last week since it was due, and the starting got better. Yesterday I finally got the time to clean IAC and TB, and installed new gaskets. Was expecting good things, got no things. Truck will not start. I get fuel, and managed to flood the engine while cranking. I get spark. Truck cranks real good, and occasionally shudders like it wants to start but doesn't. Everything that I unplugged to remove the TB has been plugged back in. All connections between all SPW's has been cleaned. I even removed my newish MAF and installed my old one to rule that out. Same issue. All fuses are good. No CEL. Code reader shows no codes.
The last time it ran was morning of 11/13/2021 it started easily despite the cold, I jumped out sooner then normal to let it idle warm up and it stalled and died. Wouldn't restart regardless of what I did. Typically in the morning I have to keep foot on gas for 2-3 minutes or it will stall. Yesterday I did not, it seemed to be doing fine until it sputter stalled.
Starting fluid makes no difference.
I'm at a loss.
Anyone with more brain power then me got any ideas? Read thru many forum posts, which are similar. Followed all steps I'm able to.
I even yelled at it in English and Italian, don't know any Japanese. In tried to pour some beer on the bumper in case it was thirsty, I also threatened to buy a Nissan. Nothing helped.

When you cleaned the IAC, did you verify that the gate still opens and shuts when receiving power? You may have dislodged something that is now causing the gate to stick.

 

[2chains]

[MENTION=99886]jeff88[/MENTION]
Thanks for the pics! Was attempting to do this last weekend. Bolts are rusted on good! Didn't even get one bolt off so I've been using PB Blaster every night this week.

 

[t4r-4-mtb]

Finally got around to changing the front sway bar bushings. One was cracked so it was definitely past time.

Used the Energy Suspension polyurethane kit

The red bushings work well with the Rancho coilovers

Nice -- did you do the bushings yourself or take it to a shop?

 

[t4r-4-mtb]

Replaced rear upper and lower control arm bushings.

I was pleasantly surprised to see just the rubber bushing style, instead of the metal sleeve type. I read a post yesterday that I somehow missed, saying the '96 came with those but after watching Timmy and reading other posts in this forum I was prepared for the metal sleeves, directional arrows, tons of heat, etc... The heavy duty ratchet strap worked wonders moving the axle about. Didn't have to bash in or out a single bolt.

Cutting the rubber ends off those old bushing though - 16 of them! Not fun.

I did the panhard bar bushings earlier this week. Have also done front/rear sway bar and steering rack bushings, and with the new front and rear shocks and springs she's riding much better.

Took me 6 hours with prep and cleanup but hey, I did it. And I'm a Web Developer. Once again, thanks to everyone here. This place is priceless.

Wow, well done! Totally inspiring! Hoping I get the gumption to tear into my suspension and replace all the bad bushing in my '02!

 

[CrudRunner]

I kept them far apart, don't think there was a chance of mixing them.
But here's an update: Haven't tried to start it since Monday morning. Tried to start it tonight as a hail Mary before I call the tow truck tomorrow morning. Truck fires right up. Like 3 cranks and boom, running. Idle was high as expected being cold, but it stayed on by itself. Blew an enormous smoke cloud while idling, waited until fully heated, looked underhood, under body, all over for signs of leaks, smoke, steam, anything. Saw nothing, took it around block, runs strong but idle never dropped below 1,500, exhaust sounded different in tone. No CEL, no more smoke blowing, smells a bit off, no excess steam out exhaust. Shut off. Restarted right away as before, idle still 1,500, exhaust stinks, no CEL. And my light bar will occasionally have some LED's turn on, yet the switch is off, turning on turns it on, off turns off, but relights some LEDs.
Possessed it seems.

 

[Bad Luck]

I kept them far apart, don't think there was a chance of mixing them.
But here's an update: Haven't tried to start it since Monday morning. Tried to start it tonight as a hail Mary before I call the tow truck tomorrow morning. Truck fires right up. Like 3 cranks and boom, running. Idle was high as expected being cold, but it stayed on by itself. Blew an enormous smoke cloud while idling, waited until fully heated, looked underhood, under body, all over for signs of leaks, smoke, steam, anything. Saw nothing, took it around block, runs strong but idle never dropped below 1,500, exhaust sounded different in tone. No CEL, no more smoke blowing, smells a bit off, no excess steam out exhaust. Shut off. Restarted right away as before, idle still 1,500, exhaust stinks, no CEL. And my light bar will occasionally have some LED's turn on, yet the switch is off, turning on turns it on, off turns off, but relights some LEDs.
Possessed it seems.

Good to see that it got started finally! Did you let the engine fully warm up to see if the idle ever dropped? 1500 rpm is right around cold start idle

 

[CrudRunner]

Idle never dropped. This morning it started and CEL was on. Misfire 3 and 5, left bank lean. Gave up and at shop now.
I think it took my Nissan threat seriously.

 

[Soccersousa]

Drove to the middle of nowhere and rode my bike.

 

[tylortega4]

Drove 2 hours to Colorado Springs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CrudRunner]

"Idle never dropped. This morning it started and CEL was on. Misfire 3 and 5, left bank lean. Gave up and at shop now.
I think it took my Nissan threat seriously."
I'll keep updating as I learn more. Truck came back from the shop. After smoke testing for leaks they found 1 where intake hooks up to MAF (I had left this loose in anticipation of it getting towed) one where intake attaches to TB (I had left this loose in anticipation of it getting towed), one on another hose towards rear of engine that enters intake tubing (this one had no clamp prior to all issues, but does now), and one near the IAC. I should note the IAC was mildly covered with silicone prior to my removal and cleaning last week, I did not apply any silicone to the IAC, and last week was first time I've touched it. Shop suspects a previous leak there and another owner just gooped it over vs fixing it. I'd installed a new gasket last week when I removed the IAC to clean it. I have a new IAC on order, thinking maybe the housing is somehow compromised?
Truck does now start, run, idles by itself on cold start, the idle remains high, and it still has misfire on 2 and 4. Shop believes the misfire is caused by the IAC leak. Will report back after new IAC is installed.