What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Sigh, update. Despite last night not being colder than yesterday morning, the truck would not start. Cranked good, juddered and sputtered like it was going to start, but wouldn't. Could smell the unburnt fuel strongly. Cranked and used jump box to maybe get lucky with it. No dice. First tow truck ride for this thing in my ownership. It will sit in my driveway until new IAC arrives. Don't trust it to go anywhere until then.
 
Sigh, update. Despite last night not being colder than yesterday morning, the truck would not start. Cranked good, juddered and sputtered like it was going to start, but wouldn't. Could smell the unburnt fuel strongly. Cranked and used jump box to maybe get lucky with it. No dice. First tow truck ride for this thing in my ownership. It will sit in my driveway until new IAC arrives. Don't trust it to go anywhere until then.

Hopefully you didn't buy Just the IAC... the TB assembly was only about $100 more (1/3rd, $300 vs $200 through my local dealers online parts site) and it comes with the TB, IAC and TPS... I just did this a couple months ago myself as my wife transitioned into using the 4runner as her full-time vehicle... right after it stalled out at a stop. :/
 
My Co-worker was nice enough to weld on CBI my sliders for me and i trimmed in my grill over my winch control box.
 

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Early 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Overhead Switch Console

Revisited an old model I teased on here many many months ago, thought it's time to share for anybody interested. Sent a completed one to a member for evaluation/critique but never heard anything from it. Fits the early 3rd gen overhead console. More details can be found on Thingiverse (options, fitment, mounting, etc)...

Early 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Overhead Switch Console by dylan77 - Thingiverse
 

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Revisited an old model I teased on here many many months ago, thought it's time to share for anybody interested. Sent a completed one to a member for evaluation/critique but never heard anything from it. Fits the early 3rd gen overhead console. More details can be found on Thingiverse (options, fitment, mounting, etc)...

Early 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Overhead Switch Console by dylan77 - Thingiverse

Probably would be worth taking some more pics and making a thread to get the word out there!
 
Sorry if this doesn't belong here, but at least half the post is detail the work i did to clean up a family friend's 4runner that he has owned since 1998 that had seen better days. I wish I took before photos on the interior. I have spent the last 4 months fixing up a 97 SR5 5Spd for my dad and his friend to sell. We are now ready to put it on the market for the next owner to enjoy. See post 1 and 14 in the thread linked below for photos and more details. Hit me up if you are interested, I wanted to post on T4R, before going to the chaos that is OfferUp/Craigslist. I am also shit at appraisals, if anyone can give me an idea for what i should hold out for when selling that would be great too.


https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3690319-post14.html
 
Probably would be worth taking some more pics and making a thread to get the word out there!

Pics and details are in the link...figured anyone interested enough would check it out where it's available for download. Not really into starting a new thread for this thing, it started out as a personal project and sat on the backburner for 11 months now...the excitement of an idea becoming a legit object left long ago (and the dude who got the first article then ghosted himself didn't help). If the need arises I can start a link to answer questions or gather feedback for any tweaks. Just really wanted to put it out in the world for more options for us early 3rd gen guys...
 
Spiker Engineering Hood Struts

Has anyone ever worn out their struts on the first day? These things are awesome and I can't stop raising the hood! Installation couldn't have been simpler. Thanks tons, [MENTION=198376]4Runner4Leon[/MENTION]!

ioqRNAO.jpg
 
I did buy just the IAC. Per shop the leak they were chasing down was localized around it somewhere.
So the IAC arrived today, I installed it tonight. Truck fired right up, idled without assistance (it was about 30f outside where parked and working), no CEL. Left it idling while I put tools away. Truck warmed up to operating temp, idle stayed about 1,500 rpm. Drove it around block, never got over 35mph, did rev it up to about 4,000 while driving. Ran fine, pulled good, no CEL during drive. Idle never dropped below 1,500. Parked in driveway, still high idle. Turned off. Restarted a minute later, no CEL, no hard start, still high idle. Will take to work again tomorrow if it starts in the morning, temp should be in low mid 20's. See if it comes under own power, or if the tow truck brings it back again. Wish me luck, and any ideas on the high idle? I'll check if maybe I somehow extra tightened the throttle cable during all these removals and such.
 
I did buy just the IAC. Per shop the leak they were chasing down was localized around it somewhere.
So the IAC arrived today, I installed it tonight. Truck fired right up, idled without assistance (it was about 30f outside where parked and working), no CEL. Left it idling while I put tools away. Truck warmed up to operating temp, idle stayed about 1,500 rpm. Drove it around block, never got over 35mph, did rev it up to about 4,000 while driving. Ran fine, pulled good, no CEL during drive. Idle never dropped below 1,500. Parked in driveway, still high idle. Turned off. Restarted a minute later, no CEL, no hard start, still high idle. Will take to work again tomorrow if it starts in the morning, temp should be in low mid 20's. See if it comes under own power, or if the tow truck brings it back again. Wish me luck, and any ideas on the high idle? I'll check if maybe I somehow extra tightened the throttle cable during all these removals and such.
Try disconnecting the throttle cable from the throttle body and then starting it and letting the engine warm up. If it's still a high idle when the engine is up to temp and the throttle cable is disconnected then it's not the throttle cable. You can also try disconnecting the battery for a half hour or so to reset the ecm learned values.
 
Revisited an old model I teased on here many many months ago, thought it's time to share for anybody interested. Sent a completed one to a member for evaluation/critique but never heard anything from it. Fits the early 3rd gen overhead console. More details can be found on Thingiverse (options, fitment, mounting, etc)...

Do you have any pics of this thing installed?
 
Thanks for the info, I'll check that out perhaps tonight. The morning started off poorly, truck would not start. It also cranked very weakly. Methinks the battery may be getting low on power in this cold. Don't recall if I had it tested when it was in time before last. I think it is about 3-3.5 years old, might be time on that. Got it sitting on trickle charge. See what it does. If not, I'll rent a Jeep and park it next to the Runner.
 
Thanks for the info, I'll check that out perhaps tonight. The morning started off poorly, truck would not start. It also cranked very weakly. Methinks the battery may be getting low on power in this cold. Don't recall if I had it tested when it was in time before last. I think it is about 3-3.5 years old, might be time on that. Got it sitting on trickle charge. See what it does. If not, I'll rent a Jeep and park it next to the Runner.

cold will definetly make a weak battery not do well. Up here I get about 3.5 to 4 years out of the costco interstates. Not just on my 4runner but other rigs as well. Im on year 3 of this battery , according to the sticker on it., and will replace b4 next winter even if it tests good. However up here, i plug the car in at night this time of year ,( current day time temp -13) not only does it have block and pan heaters, but a cheap trickle charger. my sons taco and his wifes ford both have battery heaters, thats the way they came from dealer.
b4 moving here I lived in Sisters Oregon for 5 years, and even that climate was hard on batteries
 
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cold will definetly make a weak battery not do well. Up here I get about 3.5 to 4 years out of the costco interstates. Not just on my 4runner but other rigs as well. Im on year 3 of this battery , according to the sticker on it., and will replace b4 next winter even if it tests good. However up here, i plug the car in at night this time of year ,( current day time temp -13) not only does it have block and pan heaters, but a cheap trickle charger. my sons taco and his wifes ford both have battery heaters, thats the way they came from dealer.
b4 moving here I lived in Sisters Oregon for 5 years, and even that climate was hard on batteries
You definitely win the cold battle. My wifes car gets to stay in garage, and despite having an older battery it cranked better. More work to do, I might start keeping it on trickle overnight.
 
Do you have any pics of this thing installed?

This is generally what it will look like installed. This is one of the first versions where I was trying to keep the door and use it as some sort of mounting solution but I wasn't happy with the fitment. You'll see the gap around the panel and the contour...that is fixed. Here is another pic with it together, ready to mount. Unfortunately I sent the working model I had installed and ran for a few weeks to that member who dropped the ball...
 

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Another minor update. After trickle charging all night, and having a much warmer morning, the truck started right up. Stayed idling by itself, but the CEL was on. I left it to warm up to normal temp to see if idle would drop, it did not, drove it around the block, idle stayed high. Scanned it, Misfire CYL 2 and 4. So that rules out a bad coil pack, correct? Swapped SPW from #4 and #6. Cleared codes. Restarted truck, no CEL, still high idle. Drove it a few miles, no CEL, still high idle. No additional work done as it was Thanksgiving. Did restart it again late night, easy start, no CEL. Started right up and took me to work this morning, no CEL, high idle. Will be doing the sensor pull idle reset. And have ruled out a tight throttle cable. Even attempting to manually close the throttle makes no difference. In addition on startup I now hear a loud electrical click from near left knee, where the fuses are. And my light bar no longer works, but switch is lit, no dead fuse I have found. I feel I have a hunt for a short somewhere in my future.
Hope all had a good Thanksgiving, and enjoyed their Runners more than I did.
 
Update: Idle still high, stays around 1,250 today. Perhaps the ECM is slowly learning. Only change I may make is the put the SPW's back onto correct coil/plugs so they are not draped over TB. Or I may ignore entirely and give this thing a few days of unchanged learning time.
 
Managed to get my Spiker struts on without injuring anyone seriously with the rivet gun. I now have a coveted "Hood / Trunk Prop Rod" (Part# 5344135021, now discontinued) in my possession that I'm willing to part with for a reasonable price if anyone feels compelled to make an offer. I hate to part with an object of such sentimental value, especially around the holidays, but I realize there may be others out there who are less fortunate when it comes to prop rods. Of course, for the associated prop rod grommet, you're on your own. Good news is, they're still available.

I'm still debating what to do with the 12V Denso Buzzer that I removed from the passenger side strut hole, but I'll keep everyone posted. Right now it's just kind of hanging out near the firewall.
 

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