What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Gorgeous!
No gasket needed (as far as I could see at least). The part which the TPS engages on the throttle body is sealed on the inside. It helps to have a right angle screwdriver, my JIS one wouldn't fit behind there so I carefully used a regular Philips and it felt like I was stripping the heads because the screws feel a little weird breaking free but it was actually fine. Small vice grips would probably break them free if you strip them. Might be an idea to replace them with equivalent hex screws (I did this after on the MAF after I stripped those ones). The other thing is the TPS has to go on at an offset then you twist it slightly while it engages the TB to line up the screw holes, it's simple figure out. Very easy job.
I've been using the Kirkland oil (just because it's so cheap and I trust Kirkland as a brand). They actually make it right here in Omaha. From what I researched it's essentially the same as the Supertech or whatever syntehtic Walmart sells. I used to buy Mobil 1 when it was on frequent sale at Costco, mainly because the quart bottles are easier to deal with. I hate the foil seals on the Kirkland jugs though I'm always paranoid a piece of foil is going to go in the engine. I only use 100% Toyota filters, and bought from the dealer not Amazon.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
[MENTION=9502]repo[/MENTION] Word! Good to hear some input from a real-world user. I used to be super anal about my oil, admittedly I am an oil nerd. I like learning about the stuff. I used to use AMSOIL, then switched over to Pennzoil ultra platinum, now to the Kirkland stuff. Did a bunch of reading and video watching, and I’m led to believe that this is some good stuff. I’m not switching to be cheap, I just think that at 310,000 miles I can go ahead and take it easy on what motor oil my engine is using. I treat it as good as my kids, so I look forward to giving it a go!
Yeah it's easy to get anal-retentive about oil if you ever browse through the bobistheoilguy.com forum. I think a strong history of regular oil changes is more important than the oil itself (as long as it meets the 5VZ-FE spec). Cheaper oil lets you do more frequent changes. I drive on these limestone aggregate roads every day which creates an incredible amount of dust so I try to change mine pretty frequently. There's something about the 3rd gen air intake that sucks in WAY more dust than on the 5th gen I have, really wish I had a snorkel on the 3rd gen.
I use synthetic due to the cleaning abilities after seeing a thread (can't find the link sorry) on here with pics where someone had a protocol to de-sludged an engine to a crazy extent simply with a bunch of very frequent synthetic oil changes. When I did my valve cover it looked great in there. The thing I get OCD about is always using the Toyota coolant and distilled water in the radiator, and non-counterfeit Toyota oil/air/fuel filters. Was using synthetic for the diffs and transfer case too until I saw East Coast Gear Supply recommending Lucas conventional so I switched back.
I use synthetic due to the cleaning abilities after seeing a thread (can't find the link sorry) on here with pics where someone had a protocol to de-sludged an engine to a crazy extent simply with a bunch of very frequent synthetic oil changes. When I did my valve cover it looked great in there. The thing I get OCD about is always using the Toyota coolant and distilled water in the radiator, and non-counterfeit Toyota oil/air/fuel filters. Was using synthetic for the diffs and transfer case too until I saw East Coast Gear Supply recommending Lucas conventional so I switched back.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Started a new project which will lead to a new build thread
The first order of business: running board delete
The first order of business: running board delete
looks good, only problem I have found with the aftermarket is how big of a spare you can fit, for example, I took off a aftermarket and went with a stock toyota so I could fit a 265/75/16 ko2 on a factory 5 star wheel for a spare, this can be important if you do the TBU brakes or do lots of long off road...then again some who do lots of long range back road have a big bumper with a spare mount
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Ordered a set of tokico/LC shocks, centering washers and cushion washers from Camelback. Ordered LBJs, bolts and other assorted nick nacks.
They were backordered on 16410-AZ011 radiators. Found one locally at Longo Toyota for basically the same price.
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They were backordered on 16410-AZ011 radiators. Found one locally at Longo Toyota for basically the same price.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
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Looks good, but whenever I see a glossy hitch on a 3rd gen I can't help thinking to myself "pass" haha. It's the first thing I notice on ones for sale... if the hitch is glossy or doesn't have remnants of the original Toyota hitch sticker (i.e. it's been painted over) it always has rust issues and I don't even bother looking at the rest of the pics. The state of the hitch sticker is like the fastest way to gauge the condition of a 3rd gen IMO
. I had that same hitch cap until last week when someone must have stolen it!
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Looks good, but whenever I see a glossy hitch on a 3rd gen I can't help thinking to myself "pass" haha. It's the first thing I notice on ones for sale... if the hitch is glossy or doesn't have remnants of the original Toyota hitch sticker (i.e. it's been painted over) it always has rust issues and I don't even bother looking at the rest of the pics. The state of the hitch sticker is like the fastest way to gauge the condition of a 3rd gen IMO
Funny, it's the original powder coating, I didn't repaint it. Stickers were missing, that's why I wondered who the manufacturer was. Picked it up on my last Rancho Cordova parts run, it's used just very clean. The frame/undercarriage of my 4Runner nearly as clean, spent it's life on the streets of San Jose, CA.
Doesn't apply to your aftermarket one, I meant on the original stock tow bar people like to do a quick paint job on it before they sell if they have rust problems and it's a red flag if the stock tow bar is too glossy or missing that indestructible sticker with white writing. If the tow bar is rusty the rest of it is much worse. I look for UV faded gray with white writing above the hitch when shopping 3rd gens, we have rust problems up here though. It's great for filtering out problem vehicles at a glance. Example:
JZiggy
Senior Member
Doesn't apply to your aftermarket one, I meant on the original stock tow bar people like to do a quick paint job on it before they sell if they have rust problems and it's a red flag if the stock tow bar is too glossy or missing that indestructible sticker with white writing. If the tow bar is rusty the rest of it is much worse. I look for UV faded gray with white writing above the hitch when shopping 3rd gens, we have rust problems up here though. It's great for filtering out problem vehicles at a glance. Example:
Generally true, good indicator for machine tools too -- a nice fresh coat is paint usually says "guilty!"
My 3rd gen is rust-free but the hitch has a fresh coat of paint... because I took it off and painted it!
New member here. Sorry if this isn't the correct post to ask in.
I'm looking at a 1999 4runner v6 5speed for $2500.
It has the elocker but not wired up, was swapped in when it was parked. Was last on the road in 2014. The gentleman said all it need was a starter so I put a starter on it but still haven't heard it run, Does turn over. It also has 2 holes in the frame in the rear.
What would you offer or would you run from it?
Oh has 300,00 miles btw
I'm looking at a 1999 4runner v6 5speed for $2500.
It has the elocker but not wired up, was swapped in when it was parked. Was last on the road in 2014. The gentleman said all it need was a starter so I put a starter on it but still haven't heard it run, Does turn over. It also has 2 holes in the frame in the rear.
What would you offer or would you run from it?
Oh has 300,00 miles btw
turbodudey2
New member
That's a new one. How did the conversion go and for what purpose?
I installed a supercharger and 312cc Supra injectors. I read about other folks having issues with the Supra injectors being to big, and having hard starts. This was the case for me too.
I figured a 30% larger fuel injector might be just about perfect for E85 (actually E70 in this area), and it was. Fuel trims are under control and the stock PCM is much happier.
I already built a MegaSquirt for it, and will likely hook that up at some point to take over standalone fuel control. That way I can set up dual tables and switch between E85 and gasoline at will. (the range on gasoline is better, so I'd still like to have that option for longer trips)
Devbot
New member
Hmmmm... I have a very similar thud that I've always suspected to be the driveline but I could never get it to stop or change, and eventually I just suspected it to be the trans having a rough engagement or something. Might give this a shot for the hell of it
kevvyboy4Funner
New member
Today I have learned that the coolant in my transmission most likely means that its ruined lol. I gots the strawberry milkshake coolant
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