What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[octanejunkie]

Guess I won't be doing the passenger side tomorrow. Way to think it through, genius. I was so concerned with not forgetting to refill the diff fluid before a test drive it somehow didn't occur to me that I'd have to drain it to do the other side. Hell, I even have extra washers. At least the passenger side doesn't need to be done.

You don't need to 100% drain it empty it to pull 1 side, just catch what leaks out and replace with that amount

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[Bad Luck]

Guess I won't be doing the passenger side tomorrow. Way to think it through, genius. I was so concerned with not forgetting to refill the diff fluid before a test drive it somehow didn't occur to me that I'd have to drain it to do the other side. Hell, I even have extra washers. At least the passenger side doesn't need to be done.

Jack up the passenger side only a few extra inches and you won’t lose much fluid, or drain the oil in the diff into a clean container.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Replaced the fan fluid coupling, "just in case". I did notice that with the old one, the fan kept spinning for a few seconds after shutting off the engine; with the new one, the fan comes to a stop almost instantaneously, which supposedly is how it should be. Regardless, good for the next 200K miles.

Next on the maintenance agenda is putting together a complete list of evap and vacuum hoses - some of mine are cracked, so it's time. The OEM hoses are not cheap, but they are pre-formed, so I'll probably spring for OEM (although one is out of production).

 

[octanejunkie]

Replaced the fan fluid coupling, "just in case". I did notice that with the old one, the fan kept spinning for a few seconds after shutting off the engine; with the new one, the fan comes to a stop almost instantaneously, which supposedly is how it should be. Regardless, good for the next 200K miles.

Next on the maintenance agenda is putting together a complete list of evap and vacuum hoses - some of mine are cracked, so it's time. The OEM hoses are not cheap, but they are pre-formed, so I'll probably spring for OEM (although one is out of production).

You should list all these part numbers on your build page.
Just saying

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[Spiker Engineering]

You should list all these part numbers on your build page.
Just saying

I don't have one . And I'm too lazy to go back 7 years (has it been that long???) and recreate it all. Maybe when I retire (this year, hopefully)?

 

[octanejunkie]

I don't have one . And I'm too lazy to go back 7 years (has it been that long???) and recreate it all. Maybe when I retire (this year, hopefully)?

Just start it from this round of maintenance forward with all those part numbers, add some then and now pics and call it good.

 

[Unner]

Replaced the fan fluid coupling, "just in case". I did notice that with the old one, the fan kept spinning for a few seconds after shutting off the engine; with the new one, the fan comes to a stop almost instantaneously, which supposedly is how it should be. Regardless, good for the next 200K miles.

Next on the maintenance agenda is putting together a complete list of evap and vacuum hoses - some of mine are cracked, so it's time. The OEM hoses are not cheap, but they are pre-formed, so I'll probably spring for OEM (although one is out of production).

I replaced mine around 270k as preventative maintenance also. Afterwards I noticed it ran a couple degrees cooler so it's a good thing to replace preventatively in my opinion.

 

[Canadianyotafan]

Hey guys new member but have followed your threads for a long time, specifically how to lift my 3rd gen 4runner. Going with the Tundra / LC80 route.

Today I purchased the front ,8 wrap coils for $50 bucks it was great to find them.
Double purple, blue, white. Follows the coding I’ve read for nearly 4”

Now, can someone help me, the shocks I get for my rear.. bilstein 5100’s I know but do I order them for a stock landcruiser 80 ? ( to match the coils) Or do I order the 5100’s for a lifted 4runner rear ? .

Let me know anyone

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Finally got tired of looking at the terrible geometry of my rear end links, and took out the Sonoran Steel sway bar relocation brackets that were causing it. The brackets did create more space around the E-locker actuator, but I hated the end link geometry:

Without the brackets, there is still some clearance between the actuator and the sway bar, about 1/16":

But the end link geometry is much better:

 

[octanejunkie]

Hey guys new member but have followed your threads for a long time, specifically how to lift my 3rd gen 4runner. Going with the Tundra / LC80 route.

Today I purchased the front ,8 wrap coils for $50 bucks it was great to find them.
Double purple, blue, white. Follows the coding I’ve read for nearly 4”

Now, can someone help me, the shocks I get for my rear.. bilstein 5100’s I know but do I order them for a stock landcruiser 80 ? ( to match the coils) Or do I order the 5100’s for a lifted 4runner rear ? .

Let me know anyone

You could go with Toikco / LC shocks in the rear... PN 48531-69417

 

[5VZ-FE]

…rear end links…

Speaking of end links, I replaced mine with OEM ones from PartSouq today and it doesn’t look right. Shouldn’t the teeth be in the sway bar? And yes, I reused the metal cushions because I forgot to order new ones.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Speaking of end links, I replaced mine with OEM ones from PartSouq today and it doesn’t look right. Shouldn’t the teeth be in the sway bar? And yes, I reused the metal cushions because I forgot to order new ones.

That looks right, according to their website:

I don't recall seeing the teeth on my links, I think they looked more like these, but maybe they are aftermarket:

 

[binqker]

My coworker owed me a favor, and with him having 5+ years as a government contracted welder, I asked if he would put together my LCA reinforcements. Oh boy was that a mistake.
Nearly five hours later, I'm left with these. Pretty rough beads; half of them completely away from the joint, porosity all over, dude welded in the limiting strap bung making it totally useless, completely skipped a weld because the 1/16 gap was "too big to fill" - gave me the whole nine on this one. I would've been better off giving them to a gorilla with some jumper cables :mad2: :mad2:
Guess if you want shit done right you gotta do it yourself, but oh well, at least the legwork is done. Ironically the bottom sides either weren't too bad, or he was able to clean up perfectly, but they look flawless underneath. Just the top looks rough

oh boy, your coworker did you well.! LOL. I would tell him to quit welding and go find another career! LMAO!!!!

 

[Bad Luck]

Speaking of end links, I replaced mine with OEM ones from PartSouq today and it doesn’t look right. Shouldn’t the teeth be in the sway bar? And yes, I reused the metal cushions because I forgot to order new ones.

The teeth/texture is to grip with pliers to keep the stud from spinning when tightening/loosening the nut.

 

[5VZ-FE]

The teeth/texture is to grip with pliers to keep the stud from spinning when tightening/loosening the nut.

Ahhhhh. Thank you both.

 

[JohnMc]

Got an email from Northwest Fab that my triple-stick kit might ship next week. So... transfer case doubler install some time soon-ish? I've had the two cases stuck together for a while (which involves taking both of them almost completely apart, BTW). Waiting on driveshafts and the triple stick shifter kit.

 

[greembow]

I ripped out the seats and console and gave the carpet a real deep clean! This is all in preparation for doing an audio upgrade, involving new 6.5s in the front and rear!

 

[Bad Luck]

Got an email from Northwest Fab that my triple-stick kit might ship next week. So... transfer case doubler install some time soon-ish? I've had the two cases stuck together for a while (which involves taking both of them almost completely apart, BTW). Waiting on driveshafts and the triple stick shifter kit.

Looking forward to the triple stick setup install. I’m almost as ready as you are for this to be done and get your final thoughts on it!

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Speaking of end links, I replaced mine with OEM ones from PartSouq today and it doesn’t look right. Shouldn’t the teeth be in the sway bar? And yes, I reused the metal cushions because I forgot to order new ones.

I dug up my original end link - it looks like your end link, but has an additional piece that is pressed over the serrated part - that's what acts as an anti rotation feature. The weird thing is I can't find this piece on the parts diagrams.

 

[toverturf]

Yesterday and today I got some FGP sliders welded on, upgraded my Sherpa Antero roof rack to the Matterhorn, and got the Lil Skips gas tank skid plate on. Should be ready for Moab next week now.