What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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That be he. Send me your addy, I'll send you some cow stickers to adorn it with.

If you're into recommendations, here's another one, and it comes with a distant cousin of the cow stickers

My favorite new tool bag that I can hang from my roof rack

I have enough cow things to last me 8 lifetimes now, send me your addy and I'll send you things you didn't know should even have cows on them...

My favorite old tool bag-
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CLC backpack tool bag

Carries about anything I need to get me out of a variety of pickles.
Except a pickle fork....and some times that too.
Not hangable, too heavy.
 
that's a good idea. thanks. how does it fasten?

Michael

IF that was aimed at me regarding my awning-
it came with brackets that I home-brewed a way to mount onto my 3/4 length very sturdy roof basket with round bars, then mounted the awning to the brackets.

If it wasn't aimed at me and you're still looking for an answer try another post quoting the original post that caught your interest or just more detail on what it is you're looking for info on.
 
I’m just nervous about the whole thing and don’t really know which direction I want to take it.

I've run Fumoto valves for nearly 2 decades on one vehicle or another, usually several at a time (vehicles, not valves on one vehicle... lol). None of them have caused any kinds of issues, though I'm sure I always used the washers that came with them. No reason a New, soft, oem copper crush washer should cause any issues though.

The fast way to track down oil seeps is to thoroughly de-grease and dry the area you find the seep And a hand-span above that. Once clean and dry, you spray it with spray deodorant (or any aerosol that leaves a powdery film). Then check it after every drive, eventually you'll see the white powder turn brown and that's your indicator of where to look further. Sometimes you have to repeat cleaning and application if you find a trail but not the source.

Obviously, this doesn't work if it's going to rain soon and you have a very slight weep. Works great if there's enough to drip, you get a solid line that points directly to the source.
 
Not 4Runner related, but I finally installed an ad blocker on chrome on my computer. The ads started taking up the entire right half of my screen and that was enough for me.
 
I've run Fumoto valves for nearly 2 decades on one vehicle or another, usually several at a time (vehicles, not valves on one vehicle... lol). None of them have caused any kinds of issues, though I'm sure I always used the washers that came with them. No reason a New, soft, oem copper crush washer should cause any issues though.

The fast way to track down oil seeps is to thoroughly de-grease and dry the area you find the seep And a hand-span above that. Once clean and dry, you spray it with spray deodorant (or any aerosol that leaves a powdery film). Then check it after every drive, eventually you'll see the white powder turn brown and that's your indicator of where to look further. Sometimes you have to repeat cleaning and application if you find a trail but not the source.

Obviously, this doesn't work if it's going to rain soon and you have a very slight weep. Works great if there's enough to drip, you get a solid line that points directly to the source.

Thanks for your input Brian! Do you think it would be worthwhile to keep the Fumoto but maybe swap gaskets at my next oil change? I want to keep it, but I don't want to use it if it's the source of my seep/leak. I thoroughly cleaned the pan and all around it. I posted some pics and other info related to this on my build thread this morning too. When I crawled beneath my rig last night and looked around, I literally could not find ANYTHING that looked like an active oil leak. Which sort of leads me to believe it might be the valve/gasket itself. I am so torn on this.
 
Do you think it would be worthwhile to keep the Fumoto but maybe swap gaskets at my next oil change?

I doubt it's the gasket/crush washer, but it's not going to hurt to swap (and take a good, long, detailed look at the mating surfaces).

My own oil mist was related to a cam plug. Sure didn't Look like that was weeping, and where it covered the lower engine was in Front of the weep (guess air swirls down there), but it was 100% resolved by doing a top-end reseal. I'm saying this so you don't become overly fixated on something that's an unlikely source, keep an open mind for all possibilities. Do the diagnostics/troubleshooting to actually identify the source...
 
I doubt it's the gasket/crush washer, but it's not going to hurt to swap (and take a good, long, detailed look at the mating surfaces).

My own oil mist was related to a cam plug. Sure didn't Look like that was weeping, and where it covered the lower engine was in Front of the weep (guess air swirls down there), but it was 100% resolved by doing a top-end reseal. I'm saying this so you don't become overly fixated on something that's an unlikely source, keep an open mind for all possibilities. Do the diagnostics/troubleshooting to actually identify the source...

I will continue monitoring this thing very closely. Will be going on a trip in August, which by then, I should have around 3,000~ miles on the oil then. I'd feel much better draining it then as opposed to right now with less than 1,000 miles on it, swapping the gaskets and going from there. I'll try taking a look at cam plugs tonight after work.

I've definitely become consumed by this, I love my rig just as much as the next guy. And with over 300,000 miles on it, I feel obligated to get it to 400K. If that means doing seals and such then so be it. I am definitely keeping an open mind to anything and am willing to put in the work to resolve it. Thanks again for the info and experience.
 
well thanks to one of my groups members, I got a set of stock skid plates for free (mine were missing when I bought it last year) got that sucker mounted up and now I'm more protected for my 4th of July trip this weekend :)

had to grab a threading tool to correct one hole, but other then that it went super smooth :reddance:
 
Just broke a 100k miles on the odo!! Too bad I can’t say I have a sub 100k 3rd gen anymore ;(
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well thanks to one of my groups members, I got a set of stock skid plates for free (mine were missing when I bought it last year) got that sucker mounted up and now I'm more protected for my 4th of July trip this weekend :)

had to grab a threading tool to correct one hole, but other then that it went super smooth :reddance:

Are you talking about the 02 aluminum front skid? If so I wouldn't exactly put my faith in it, they look great but they're as strong as cardboard. I'd keep that in mind and not get overly confident
 
Are you talking about the 02 aluminum front skid? If so I wouldn't exactly put my faith in it, they look great but they're as strong as cardboard. I'd keep that in mind and not get overly confident

No??? Came off a 98 Limited and it feels and sounds like steel. Regardless, gotta be better then absolutely nothing. I don't really go on too many super rough trails at this moment in time, got some axles and a few other parts to swap before I get to some of the harder trails.

Also my mindset is never (oh I have plates, I'll run over that!) lol, I'm still trying to protect my entire vehicle whenever possible =P
 
Machine shop finally got around to my presswork - putting the manual hubs into some ABS uprights/bearing carriers. Along with a new bearing and grease seal (and new brake dust shields as well, they were very rusty on both donors). And by pure chance, Toyota managed to find a second rebuilt OEM manual CV shaft as well. I think we ordered two of them back in Feb(?), they got two of them a month or so ago, but good thing I opened the boxes and looked, one was an ADD shaft.

So now it's all ready to go on, manual hub swap will happen this weekend. And I can crank the front coilovers up another inch or so, I've been avoiding excessive CV boot wear so far.
 
Machine shop finally got around to my presswork - putting the manual hubs into some ABS uprights/bearing carriers. Along with a new bearing and grease seal (and new brake dust shields as well, they were very rusty on both donors). And by pure chance, Toyota managed to find a second rebuilt OEM manual CV shaft as well. I think we ordered two of them back in Feb(?), they got two of them a month or so ago, but good thing I opened the boxes and looked, one was an ADD shaft.

So now it's all ready to go on, manual hub swap will happen this weekend. And I can crank the front coilovers up another inch or so, I've been avoiding excessive CV boot wear so far.
Same boat as you, sir, except mine came complete with fresh-ish bearings and CVs. I'm welding on gussets.
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timing belt, water pump and all associated. Used an Asian kit. Also drain and fill on transfer case and front diff. for next month....front struts/springs and top hats. Re did rear springs and shocks and refreshed my TBU brakes , new stainless lines, diff fluid and breather relocation all about two months ago. Coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter, tranny flush and ps flush about 6 months ago. Should get me through for a bit.
Of course thanks to MTBTM videos.


BTW I bought this rig about a year ago now....and papers showed the timing belt was done about 130k ago. bt did not list water pump or rollers or...etc...so was doing it as preventative...Ive done enough of these to guess age....no way this was only 100k old and wonder how the papers could have been faked or last owner got ripped off. Yota timing belt but on its last legs.
 
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console upgrade

I got a 99 up style console with cupholders from a salvage yard with the off set e-brake handle, mounts and hardware. Got it installed a couple weeks ago. Today, I got the rear window switch relocated to where the clock used to be. Nice to be able to hold 2 big cups and roll my rear window down again.
 
Had to work around some recurring rain showers, but I got one side of the manual hub swap done.

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Manual hubs and new bearings in an ABS bearing carrier.
 
Installed new reinforced LCAs, new uniball LBJs and new ITREs. With another person it took a total of 9.5 hours. The cam adjuster sleeves were an absolute nightmare and took a solid 60% of the time by themselves - and I'm deathly curious what the f*ck they're made of; when trying to come up from beneath it the sleeve absolutely smoked every cutting disk and sawzall blade I had like it was Stellite, but cutting the sleeve dead-on felt like it was pot metal. :wtf:
I ended up cutting off the sockets of the LCA (just to get it out the way) then cutting a crosshair shape at the end of the adjuster sleeve to break off chunks and get rid of that little bit poking out the frame, so it could be knocked cock-eyed and pulled out. Even in doing this it still took two men a couple hours with two prybars, some weird drill bits and a lot of swearing. We both suspect that having an end-mill would make extremely short work of it since you'd be able to shave down that nub past the frame in a minute, tops.
Oddly enough what looked to be the most rusted one wasn't frozen one bit and simply pushed out... weird but I'll take it. At this point the only part on the vehicle that hasn't been serviced in some way, shape or form are the wheel bearings, which are starting to howl around 20mph... but it's such a ***** of a job that I'm willing to ignore it for the time being. :cowboy:
Went for a quick drive around the block and boy howdy do things feel much better! So much better I'm halfway tempted to forego and alignment, but better not just to be safe
 
....

This is how I left her in November. Alot of parts ordered while i have been gone so its gonna be fun when I return in Sept.
 

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