What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Not so much what I do to the 4Runner as I did with the 4Runner... But I hauled this old and worn out chair to the dumpster and drove with the hatch wide open. Didn't even bounce, I don't think, thanks to the newly installed struts.
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New strong arm struts still try to catch me with an uppercut. Better than the old days of falling on my head !
 
Swapped out my transmission shift solenoids & filter last night.

Getting ready to button everything up to find out my pan drain plug threads are stripped :nono:
 
Replaced the tiny battery in my big/tiny dual battery setup ( https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...-do-your-3rd-gen-today-2133.html?#post3610139 )

I'm not quite sure if that makes my big/tiny house/start battery experiment is a failure or not. Obviously, the tiny battery only lasting a year isn't a great showing, but I did run it completely flat a few times leaving something on when I shouldn't have. That's hard on a battery, and the tiny battery, which works perfectly fine otherwise, was starting to be weak and need assistance from the Optima yellowtop if it had been sitting for more than a few days (possibly a slight undiagnosed drain going on?).

Since last year I discovered that the Braille B14115 batteries are really just rebranded/restickered/promoted/advertised Deka batteries, and the Deka ETX14 is identical. So this time around I used a Deka which cost roughly half as much.

I'll try to avoid running this one completely flat and see how long it lasts.
 
attempting to rework the 5vz a340 pan to work on the 2jz a340 to get the larger pan size, this requires moving the dip stick location to the pass side of the pan. Figured I'd share something I found out during said move that I was unaware of, there is an o-ring between the pan and tube, under the 3 spot welds that hold the 2 as one.

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I changed the oil and rotated my tires. Discovered I have a slow oil leak...somewhere. Yippee. Planning on pulling the rear bumper tomorrow to repaint it black. It's still factory chrome and I'm just not a chrome guy!
 
Got upset with it for my starter making awful noises. But at 322K on the original starter, I can't really be too mad I suppose. I went ahead and purchased a Denso reman from RockAuto and plan to rebuild the OEM unit in the future.

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Finally got around to finishing the second side of my axle seal job so new bearings and seals on both sides woo. Amazing that those lasted 270k+ miles and the clogged diff breather was the only thing that sealed their fate. Went much quicker than the first side which took me 8 hours. This took me 4.5 and that was only because of the stupid fiddly drums and the fact that when I first pulled it open I was greeted with one of my retaining pins having disappeared at some time in the vague past. Really glad I got that job done now so I don't have to be paranoid about that bearing just giving up the ghost on a trip up in the mountains and potentially destroying my rear end. Still have some fine tuning to do with the drum so that the ebrake works in less than 10 clicks and maybe do another good bleed as my ABS light did come on for me twice driving home from the buddy with the press (checked it in an icy spot again once I got all the way home though and it wasn't activating the light anymore).
 
Finally got around to finishing the second side of my axle seal job so new bearings and seals on both sides woo. Amazing that those lasted 270k+ miles and the clogged diff breather was the only thing that sealed their fate. Went much quicker than the first side which took me 8 hours. This took me 4.5 and that was only because of the stupid fiddly drums and the fact that when I first pulled it open I was greeted with one of my retaining pins having disappeared at some time in the vague past. Really glad I got that job done now so I don't have to be paranoid about that bearing just giving up the ghost on a trip up in the mountains and potentially destroying my rear end. Still have some fine tuning to do with the drum so that the ebrake works in less than 10 clicks and maybe do another good bleed as my ABS light did come on for me twice driving home from the buddy with the press (checked it in an icy spot again once I got all the way home though and it wasn't activating the light anymore).

The ebrake cable on my 3rd gen is stretched. Should I just replace it (something I don't really look forward to) or do you know of a way to take the slack out of it? Congrats on completing your axle seal job!
 
I❤️4runners;3778394 said:
The ebrake cable on my 3rd gen is stretched. Should I just replace it (something I don't really look forward to) or do you know of a way to take the slack out of it? Congrats on completing your axle seal job!

You can take up slack with the adjuster nuts at the handle. It's also not hard to replace the cable.

How do you know your cable is stretched?
 
I❤️4runners;3778394 said:
The ebrake cable on my 3rd gen is stretched. Should I just replace it (something I don't really look forward to) or do you know of a way to take the slack out of it? Congrats on completing your axle seal job!

If your cables aren't too stretched and you still have adjustment left on the drums you might be able take that slack up by ratcheting the ebrake lever (just hold the bottom and keep cycling it hard all the way up. You should hear the ratcheting if there is adjustment left to be done that way).
 
Also how is that you have come by your ebrake cable being stretched? Is it just that your ebrake isn't working as it should or do you have other proof? I say this because my first hint on the axle seals having been blown was my ebrake not working well which I later found was because my shoes were totally contaminated with gear oil. I noticed this a good while before I noticed gear oil on my wheel.
 
You can take up slack with the adjuster nuts at the handle. It's also not hard to replace the cable.

How do you know your cable is stretched?

Oh! I didn't know there was such a thing as adjuster nuts at the handle itself. I thought all the cable adjusting happened back at the drums.

I thought the cable is stretched because no matter how high I pull it up it never seems to grab the drums. But now I'm wondering if it's just out of adjustment. I was under the impression that ebrake cables simply stretch over time from use. Am I correct in thinking that? Anyway, thanks for you input! I'm gonna check those adjuster nuts.
 
Also how is that you have come by your ebrake cable being stretched? Is it just that your ebrake isn't working as it should or do you have other proof? I say this because my first hint on the axle seals having been blown was my ebrake not working well which I later found was because my shoes were totally contaminated with gear oil. I noticed this a good while before I noticed gear oil on my wheel.

The ebrake didn't work when I bought the truck and I thought it was stretched simply because no matter how hard I yanked the ebrake the pads never seemed to make good contact with the drums. I can pull it all the way up and drive no problem with zero feeling of brake drag. I'm wondering now if the cable's just out of adjustment. I had the drums off a couple months back and they didn't have any gear oil on them. The ebrake wasn't working back then either. I was thinking about replacing the rear drums soon anyway so I'll give everything a thorough going over to make sure the seals aren't leaking.
Thanks so much for your input. I really appreciate it!
 
I❤️4runners;3778471 said:
The ebrake didn't work when I bought the truck and I thought it was stretched simply because no matter how hard I yanked the ebrake the pads never seemed to make good contact with the drums. I can pull it all the way up and drive no problem with zero feeling of brake drag. I'm wondering now if the cable's just out of adjustment. I had the drums off a couple months back and they didn't have any gear oil on them. The ebrake wasn't working back then either. I was thinking about replacing the rear drums soon anyway so I'll give everything a thorough going over to make sure the seals aren't leaking.
Thanks so much for your input. I really appreciate it!

I think you need to check into the bellcrank adjustment and the shoe adjustment. You want the shoes to have slight drag on the drums when you put them on, otherwise there will be too much slack.

Timmy has a good video on the topic.
 
I think you need to check into the bellcrank adjustment and the shoe adjustment. You want the shoes to have slight drag on the drums when you put them on, otherwise there will be too much slack.

Timmy has a good video on the topic.

Thank you sir! I will look at that. Thanks again for your help!
 
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Discreet Molle Panel Storage Option

I have been brainstorming on how to add storage for recovery and safety gear in the rear hatch area for far too long. Current window mounted options are expensive and overt which are both things I want to avoid. Outbound Nevada had a similar product but it is discontinued 3rd Gen 4runner Rear Seat Molle Panels. So far the top two holes line up with the factory seat back push clips and I'll need to add two new holes to align with the panels holes in the lower seat frames. Install isn't done yet but these are the panels Amazon.com: MAIKER Side Bed Molle Panel Rack System Cargo Storage Organizer Compatible with 2015-2022 Ford F150 2pcs : Automotive and then you'll need a rivnut tool as well. I also plan on cutting the provided stand offs in half to reduce the protruding profile of the panels. My vision is that with the cargo cover in place all gear should be obscured but available when needed. If there's enough interest I may make a dedicated thread when the time comes.

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