What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Canlady44]

Some basic maintenance

Drain/ Fill all Differentials and T-Case with new gear oil, grease front and rear slip yokes and u-joints, and transmission drain/fill. Tomorrow will be oil change and potentially getting my handing into a coolant flush with trans cooler upgrade install since I'll be draining and flushing the system anyways.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Drain/ Fill all Differentials and T-Case with new gear oil, grease front and rear slip yokes and u-joints, and transmission drain/fill. Tomorrow will be oil change and potentially getting my handing into a coolant flush with trans cooler upgrade install since I'll be draining and flushing the system anyways.

I need to do the transfer case myself at some point. Any recommendations on a good fluid to use? Also need to do a coolant drain to get the green stuff out and the red stuff in.

 

[Canlady44]

I need to do the transfer case myself at some point. Any recommendations on a good fluid to use? Also need to do a coolant drain to get the green stuff out and the red stuff in.

It all depends on where you are located for the gear oil, some use 75w90 and I’ve read that 80w90 is better for cold locations which is where I’m at and in the mountains. Personally if you can afford Lucas Oil or the Purple whatever it’s called stuff is worth it but any gear oil in a regular yearly drain/fill will do your diffs and trade wonders.

 

[JZiggy]

It all depends on where you are located for the gear oil, some use 75w90 and I’ve read that 80w90 is better for cold locations which is where I’m at and in the mountains. Personally if you can afford Lucas Oil or the Purple whatever it’s called stuff is worth it but any gear oil in a regular yearly drain/fill will do your diffs and trade wonders.

You have that backward. In the hot weather 80W90 will be fine. If it gets cold at all you should run 75W90. The first # gives you an idea of the room temp viscosity which you want as low as possible.

 

[JoeT4R]

I need to do the transfer case myself at some point. Any recommendations on a good fluid to use? Also need to do a coolant drain to get the green stuff out and the red stuff in.

What [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] said. I used to use AMSOIL in my diffs but I'm trying to get on a yearly drain and fill routine, so I'm sticking with the cheaper synthetics, like SuperTech or Valvoline. AMSOIL is great and will hold up for a loooong time, so if your wallet can afford it and you aren't very disciplined in doing regular drain and fills, I'd probably suggest the AMSOIL stuff.

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[Canlady44]

What [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] said. I used to use AMSOIL in my diffs but I'm trying to get on a yearly drain and fill routine, so I'm sticking with the cheaper synthetics, like SuperTech or Valvoline. AMSOIL is great and will hold up for a loooong time, so if your wallet can afford it and you aren't very disciplined in doing regular drain and fills, I'd probably suggest the AMSOIL stuff.

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I went with Supertech for that reason, I figured if Im gonna do yearly changes (even though i barely do 7k a year on my truck) it's better just save the money and it only takes about and hr or two do both Diffs and the transfer case

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Are y'all just going 75w90 for all three in cold climates?

 

[JoeT4R]

Are y'all just going 75w90 for all three in cold climates?

IIRC, the front diff and t-case take 75W-90 and the rear diff takes 80W-90. I read somewhere on here a long time ago someone emailed Toyota about this and they said you can use 75W-90 in place of 80W-90. I think 75 is probably easier to find, so I wouldn't have any hesitation in doing so, regardless of climate.

 

[JoeT4R]

I went with Supertech for that reason, I figured if Im gonna do yearly changes (even though i barely do 7k a year on my truck) it's better just save the money and it only takes about and hr or two do both Diffs and the transfer case

Agreed. Plus you'll change it more regularly, which I think is a good thing.

 

[brad_85]

Did my first modification the classic removal of running boards. The truck honestly looks better without them.

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[Rushthezeppelin]

Did my first modification the classic removal of running boards. The truck honestly looks better without them.

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Yup, no running boards makes them just look so aggressive and definitely very practical delete if you do any amount of offroad.

 

[MCgrease08]

Are y'all just going 75w90 for all three in cold climates?

That's what I did. I couldn't find the 80w90 easily, so just did all three with the same stuff. It's only been about 1500 miles, but so far so good.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Did a compression test, pretty happy with these results at 214K:

Then started to tear apart the upper end of the engine, planning to replace the fuel injectors and air/vacuum/fuel hoses, get some parts painted and plated, check the valve clearance, etc. In other words, a major rabbit hole. Will document the progress here - Engine bay project - what to do while I'm at it?

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Did a compression test, pretty happy with these results at 214K:

Then started to tear apart the upper end of the engine, planning to replace the fuel injectors and air/vacuum/fuel hoses, get some parts painted and plated, check the valve clearance, etc. In other words, a major rabbit hole. Will document the progress here - Engine bay project - what to do while I'm at it?

Man those are great numbers. Still need to do a compression test on mine at some point, I'm at 277k. Also looks pretty good on the varnish in the valvetrain. These engines really are tanks.

 

[Bad Luck]

Marlin of Marlin Crawler has passed away. Just a moment...

 

[JoeT4R]

About to knock out this starter replacement with the assistance of my bro. Wish us luck!

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[octanejunkie]

Chasing my coolant leak

Looks like the water pump to me...

Timing belt looks mint, thinking about not replacing it...

 

[JohnMc]

Went by a PnP yard because they had a '98 4 cylinder 4WD manual pickup that looked like it might have manual hubs. It arrived in the yard on Thu, by the time we arrived mid-day Sat the hubs were gone. Ah well, we didn't really need anything, might have been nice to have a spare set of them though.

So instead we harvested the good CV shaft (one had been used a while with a bad boot), all 4 brass bushings, and I got the non-ADD passenger side diff extension. I'm thinking I might take the ADD off mine at some point, remove a possible failure point. I'm sort of pondering a locker front diff, that would be a great time to stick that on it.

 

[JoeT4R]

Starter— DONE. Oh my goodness am I glad that's over. My bro knocked it out like a champ. We used a whole bunch of different tools. But thank goodness for his knowledge and know-how. Details in the build thread.

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[Rushthezeppelin]

Went by a PnP yard because they had a '98 4 cylinder 4WD manual pickup that looked like it might have manual hubs. It arrived in the yard on Thu, by the time we arrived mid-day Sat the hubs were gone. Ah well, we didn't really need anything, might have been nice to have a spare set of them though.

So instead we harvested the good CV shaft (one had been used a while with a bad boot), all 4 brass bushings, and I got the non-ADD passenger side diff extension. I'm thinking I might take the ADD off mine at some point, remove a possible failure point. I'm sort of pondering a locker front diff, that would be a great time to stick that on it.

Feel you on the junkyard woes. I went today looking for two good LCAs to swap whiteline bushings in to. Yard had 4 3rd gens. Two of them only had driver arms left, drat. One was in a front end wreck and I think the frame was bent right above the driver arm so didn't even want to open that can of worms, at best my guess is it would have been bound up in there and at worst the arm might have been bent. 4th had part of the middle of the frame cutout and the front frame was resting on the ground on the arms. Plus there were a ton of other parts strewn around the front of the vehicle that I would have had to move, one of which was a tcase with the shifter hacked in half by a sawzall, why would anyone do that >< One of the yard employees did offer to pick up the frame with the engine hoist but I figured I would look elsewhere first before resorting to that. Also looked for a 96-98 center bezel for my middle vent/head unit swap. Of course the two that were in that year range were cleaned out. Lastly I figured I would at least see if any of them had elockers just for giggles. All 4 of them had third members removed. None of them had the notch on the driver side anyway so they weren't elockers.

On a positive note I did get a good look at what everything looks like with the dash torn off and determined that the vent/head unit swap is probably not going to be terribly hard so my $2 admission price was worth it IMO.