What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
- Status
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Some ugly weird black thing parked next to me today. It was friggin' huge!
Yours is much nicer!
fourfive
Senior Member
Some ugly weird black thing parked next to me today. It was friggin' huge!
Baller way to show it who's daddy.
InsuranceBroker
New member
I looked at it in my driveway as its currently not running and hoped that i could figure out why its not getting fuel when i have replaced every physical fuel component.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Replaced rotors and pads in my Tundra 199 mm setup. I got 6 years and 35K miles out of the original set, but one caliper seized on me and overheated the rotor.
I went with OEM Tundra rotors (PN 43512-0C011):
And Akebono ACT812 pads:
Now I'm waiting for replacement Cardone calipers, then I get to do the brake job all over again
.
I went with OEM Tundra rotors (PN 43512-0C011):
And Akebono ACT812 pads:
Now I'm waiting for replacement Cardone calipers, then I get to do the brake job all over again
.
Last edited:
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Contemplated it!
It a head scratcher when Problem only happens when temps drop to 20's overnight 3 times now
not in a row in two months happened today. 5VZ starts great cold hi-idle tapers off, engine stumbles a bit
first 10-15' backing out of driveway.
Maybe I'll try backing it into parking spot, so it's put in D n go.
It a head scratcher when Problem only happens when temps drop to 20's overnight 3 times now
not in a row in two months happened today. 5VZ starts great cold hi-idle tapers off, engine stumbles a bit
first 10-15' backing out of driveway.
Maybe I'll try backing it into parking spot, so it's put in D n go.
Replaced rotors and pads in my Tundra 199 mm setup. I got 6 years and 35K miles out of the original set, but one caliper seized on me and overheated the rotor.
I went with OEM Tundra rotors (PN 43512-0C011):
And Akebono ACT812 pads:
Now I'm waiting for replacement Cardone calipers, then I get to do the brake job all over again
well if you have done it one time, it is easier 2nd time, and you wont have to take time to cut backing plates this time
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Was disappointed with my Optima red top failing, but then I saw
so it's maybe not too surprising. That one is a Johnson Controls made in Mexico, hoping the Clarios Optima, same factory, lasts as well, but not gonna be surprised if it doesn't.
it's 9.5 years old? Do you have any Alt output mods installed?
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Yeah I think at this point I can do it with my eyes closed
. I obviously would have preferred to not do this twice, but at first I didn't realize the calipers were bad, and only bought new rotors and pads. It was only when I tried to push back the pistons in the calipers that I realized that one of them was seized.
DavidH.
Member
I got new tires mounted this morning at Discount Tire. 265/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer Road & Trail AT. I got ~50k miles & 9 years out of my first set of Cooper Discoverer AT3, so hopefully this newer generation works out the same. They still had some tread life, more replaced for age.
habanero
Senior Member
EDIT (thanks [MENTION=405460]2TH4IST[/MENTION]): No, I don't. I will look into it, more for the yellowtop's health than for the redtop. Thanks [MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION] for leading me down yet another path.
I have dual batteries controlled with a blue sea 7622 ACR, was running the stock alternator for most of the time but very recently went with a 100 amp Denso.
The redtop is the Start battery and has a few mild extras attached to it.
The yellowtop House battery has most of the fun stuffs, the OBA and winch, those are prolly the biggest occasional draw, some lighting plus a variety of this and thats. Both have their own aux fuse block and circuit breaker.
This is the second time in a row that I've had to replace a 9 year old redtop. For the record, the yellowtop previous to the current one only made it a couple years before it failed. The yellowtop I have now is 4 years old and thankfully still doing fine- since that's the one that has to start the truck until I get the new redtop.
Last edited:
2TH4IST
Member
[MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] It is a voltage booster for the alternator. As agm's need higher charging voltage. And it bumps it up to 14.6- 14.8v.
Today I pressed out the old hubs in prep for my un-conversion, or going back to stock type of axles. Have manual locking hubs now, and I don't want to remove them, but I'm loosing so much down travel with the manual hub axles and radflos. It is what it is. So got my old hubs off and ready for the swap. Also put in another tube of cv grease in each boot of the extended travel cv's from trackmotive. When I was messing with one a while ago. And noticed a lack of grease in the cv's. Didn't want to have failure down the road.
Today I pressed out the old hubs in prep for my un-conversion, or going back to stock type of axles. Have manual locking hubs now, and I don't want to remove them, but I'm loosing so much down travel with the manual hub axles and radflos. It is what it is. So got my old hubs off and ready for the swap. Also put in another tube of cv grease in each boot of the extended travel cv's from trackmotive. When I was messing with one a while ago. And noticed a lack of grease in the cv's. Didn't want to have failure down the road.
habanero
Senior Member
Ah, thanks to you now I understand. I've read something about the higher charge voltage needed, but I suppose I should actually look into that.
Looking into that...
Optima states:
YELLOWTOP Type: D51 & D51R - D35 – DS46B24R - D75/25 - D34 – D34/78 - D27F - H6 - H7
Recommended charging information:
Alternator:
13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
REDTOP Type: 34 & 34R - 34/78 - 78 - 25 & 35 - 75/25
Recommended charging information:
Alternator:
13.3 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
This is my mostly daily short drives as well as occasional all day long drives for moderate messing around. Looking at the yellowtop requirements and knowing my output is likely under 13.65 (will also look at that), I am looking into the pop-in use of parts from GM or Ford or ??? ...off to cram some info into my noggin. Insights/info always welcome!
Last edited:
P0325 code for no reason?
Hey, i have a problem and idk what to do about it. I have a 1997 4runner with the v6 and it has been running nice with no problems, but recently it threw a p0325 code for the knock sensor. But there is absolutely nothing different about the way it runs and it bothers the heck out of me. What can i do?
Hey, i have a problem and idk what to do about it. I have a 1997 4runner with the v6 and it has been running nice with no problems, but recently it threw a p0325 code for the knock sensor. But there is absolutely nothing different about the way it runs and it bothers the heck out of me. What can i do?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
If you have a bad knock sensor you need to replace it, if you have bad wiring, such as wires chewed by rodents going to the knock sensor you need to repair them!!
I have checked the wiring and it seems to be good, it has no symptoms of a bad knock sensor. I just don’t have the time or money to do a job like that.
- Status
Similar threads
