noticed they said for fj crusiers, but since your both using I guess they fit the 4runner. I need to rebuild my axles this summer
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
- Status
noticed they said for fj crusiers, but since your both using I guess they fit the 4runner. I need to rebuild my axles this summer
GhostRing
Member
I am only using the smaller clamps for the inner boot stretch, and using OEM
clamps for the rest. I did trim the tail off, but not sure that's necessary.
GhostRing
Member
Found my steering rack covered in oil. 1st drops on the ground in years.
After talking myself off the rear main seal ledge, I found that
the last person near my valve covers must have tightened
the bolts with their eyelids. Snugged up and all is good.
I actually have all the parts to do a decent top end service, but I know
it's going to spiral ooc a lil' bit, so I need time to get into character...
After talking myself off the rear main seal ledge, I found that
the last person near my valve covers must have tightened
the bolts with their eyelids. Snugged up and all is good.
I actually have all the parts to do a decent top end service, but I know
it's going to spiral ooc a lil' bit, so I need time to get into character...
I would approach this way:
- Check breather on differential. If plugged or frozen, clean or replace and proceed.
- Pull offending wheel, drum and remove axle. Clamp the axle in a bench vise that allows access to the bearing. Inspect bearing for sloppiness. Carefully pop one of the seals from the bearing and thoroughly clean with aerosol parts cleaner, dry with air and re-lube with a quality synthetic grease that is rated for wheel bearing service. Carefully re-install the bearing seal that you removed. Clean the brake assembly completely with the aerosol cleaner and reassemble.
- Keep an eye on the assembly by occasionally pulling the wheel and drum to inspect. If no further seepage occurs and the bearing is still seviceable (there is a good chance it wasn't damaged unless run too long with gearlube contamination) You have solved the problem with a little work and the cost of the aerosol and grease.
If the breather is clogged or frozen the heat buildup in the differential will cause an increase in pressure that can't vent properly and will send fluid past the seal whether it is good or bad. With the costs involved with bearing replacement and the difficulty finding quality bearings, this is a viable alternative to attempt.
Last edited:
2TH4IST
Member
Well today I tackled the following:
Replaced ADD actuator switch, and all 3 t case switches. Front and rear O2 sensors.
Cleaned up the cv grease and installed the hose clamps on cv boots. Found that the arp studs for the lower ball don't clear the cv boot hose clamps, sigh. So out came the dremel and cleranced the ends of the stud until it cleared the clamps.
After that I did an oil change and installed a quick drain valve (not a fumitomo valve). Installed SDHQ military style battery terminal ends, my original lead ones kept coming loose (lead would compress). These are aluminum and won't compress.
Replaced ADD actuator switch, and all 3 t case switches. Front and rear O2 sensors.
Cleaned up the cv grease and installed the hose clamps on cv boots. Found that the arp studs for the lower ball don't clear the cv boot hose clamps, sigh. So out came the dremel and cleranced the ends of the stud until it cleared the clamps.
After that I did an oil change and installed a quick drain valve (not a fumitomo valve). Installed SDHQ military style battery terminal ends, my original lead ones kept coming loose (lead would compress). These are aluminum and won't compress.
GhostRing
Member
Found an almost-ejected upper rear link bolt (nut MIA) that was the cause of my rear clunk.
Not sure if I flaked on that one, but first link bolt in decades to come loose and it was on OptOR JJ links?
I suppose this is what can possibly happen when you start to blur the line between upgraded vs. race(ish) parts...
Also did both front & rear body mounts to poly, as they were disintegrating and all the new armor is going to
likely start banging into the body otherwise. New Wally World 36" pry bar paid for itself instantly!
Not sure if I flaked on that one, but first link bolt in decades to come loose and it was on OptOR JJ links?
I suppose this is what can possibly happen when you start to blur the line between upgraded vs. race(ish) parts...
Also did both front & rear body mounts to poly, as they were disintegrating and all the new armor is going to
likely start banging into the body otherwise. New Wally World 36" pry bar paid for itself instantly!
2TH4IST
Member
Probably forgot to torque it. Do you have any link bracing? If so the bolts could not have been long enough to get proper thread engagement. I'd switch over to a nylock nut or a distorted thread nut. Stock stuff works until you start using it for something it was not intended. Also any type of lock nut is usually a one time use.
I don't think the JJ's had anything to do with it.
Reminded me I need to install the opt jj links lol.
I don't think the JJ's had anything to do with it.
Reminded me I need to install the opt jj links lol.
GhostRing
Member
That's what I'm hoping...
Every other nut/bolt was tight, including the JJ jam-nuts.
I don't have any bracing on the upper mounts - just the lower frame mounts
for now, and those I made sure the bolts were long enough.
The pita is that I had to rob the stud nut from my Dobinson rear shocks
that I was going to re-install!
phattyduck
Elite Member
Over the weekend, but close enough. 65mm pulley installed. I had a wiring snafu (caused by me) in 7th injector kit that kept the truck from starting... but now that that its fixed, the party is really going. ~7psi here near sea level.
-Charlie
-Charlie
RogueWaive
New member
Purrrrdy.Picked up this Limited Golden Pearl a few days ago, 180k miles, limited, bone stock for a steal! Immediately threw a 1.5 inch body lift on it while I wait for suspension parts to deliver
But you can't say "steal" without giving up the number.
RogueWaive
New member
What, you got a supercharger on that thing or somethin'?
phattyduck
Elite Member
I do now! The updated Magnuson TVS1320 supercharger with a URD 7th injector kit and 65mm pulley.
Before the smaller pulley was installed:
-Charlie
RogueWaive
New member
Sweet!I do now! The updated Magnuson TVS1320 supercharger with a URD 7th injector kit and 65mm pulley.
Before the smaller pulley was installed:
-Charlie
Did you happen to run it on a dyno before the mod?
Or are there specs available to estimate your gains?
phattyduck
Elite Member
No pre-mod dyno runs. If I ever do a dyno run on it, I'll probably try to do original pulley, no fuel mods, then turn on the fuel mods, then change to the small pulley... but that's a bit down the road. Need to get the boost/AFR gauge installed and verify AFR and timing up top.
There's a bit if info floating around out there on Tacomaworld and a few other threads on here.
-Charlie
RogueWaive
New member
Roger that. Are you gonna' start a new thread for this mod? Or just keep us posted in this one? Or...?
- Status
Similar threads
