What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[chandaman_05]

Well after 3500 miles, I swapped out the Eibach coils for the slightly beefier Toytec lift coils. This allows me to run the same lift (~3") without having to set preload and my added weight Addicted Offroad bumper. Again, using the jack method and having done this 3 times now in the last 4 weeks, its a pretty quick job. Got it done in under 2 hours.

Ride quality is much better with the Toytec coils and no preload. The Eibach's felt good as well without preload and I think any spring will feel much stiffer and more harsh by adding preload so I wouldn't recommend that if you dont need it.

The oil leak is back but thankfully its not the VCs and its just a front main seal that seems to be the culprit. I'm almost over due for another TB change so in around ~15k or so at 250k miles, I'll probably do the 2nd TB change on this car and we'll see if I can truly have an oil leak free vehicle for a bit.

 

[2TH4IST]

Today I started on the stereo install. Started with the head unit as I knew it would take the 2nd longest. So since I go places where I have no cell service (Spotify won't work and I don't have a subscription yet) it needed to have sirius xm on it. And also the expandability to add a front and rear camera (that will be a later date). So I set with a jensen 10.1" floating screen. I knew the screen is pushing the limits regarding fitment. Wanted the 8" screen but it didn't have sirius xm.

So fiddled with it for a while and was able to get the head unit pushed back 1/4 of an inch, which got me about 1/4 inch clerance from the shift lever. I'm also using the teq offroad accessories mount seen in pics. So that limits the up travel I can go with the screen.

Made a amp mount using the seat bolts and allowing me access to all the tuning nobs and switches. Done.

So with that done, I moved on to running the rca cables for the 4 channel amp and sub. Done, easy. Ran the remote turn on, done. Now moved to the power wire for the amp and sub, sigh, lol. Well it went right where the clutch pedal would be. Used a gland nut to seal everything up. Done. Ran the wire (4awg) to the distribution block, done. Ran the ground for the amp, crap, I don't have a end that will fit both 4awg wire and a m10 bolt. So cleanned up for th day and will continue tomorrow.

Tomorrow will be the speaker wires, the powered under seat sub (drivers side), and speakers. Front 6.5" components and rear 6.5" 2 way with mounts I need to make. And will vacuum under the seats for the first time is 25 years lol.

Also my cs144 alternator diy rebuild is failing, yay! So ordered up a mechman 250a alternator, and added an extended warranty.
[MENTION=660839]picantesauce[/MENTION] I too did that with my old trans cooler, turned it into a ps cooler. Now I'm running a tube type cooler as it didn't fit with the new set up.

Which reminds me, after I took all the e-fan stuff off and put the clutch stuff back on, for some reason my trans runs 30 degrees cooler now?! I mean I'll take it, I didn't touch one thing on the trans cooler. Only radiator. But the csf radiator is thicker where the mounts are compared to the koyo and oem. So it pushed the shroud 3/8 - 1/2"" further out, or the fan is now 3/8 - 1/2" further in the shroud. Or the fin design on the csf is very efficient and allows more air to pass. It's wild. And I have no idea why other then these 2 things.

 

[3bears]

with my hands, I would probably hit that screen more than one time

 

[2TH4IST]

Yep taged the screen moving the 4runner tonight lol. Ok that was a major PITA. My God the speakers took way to long! Funny thing is the rears went the quickest. They are a 6.5" and had to cut lots of door panel to fit them. But I diy'ed the adapters for the rear out of a cutting board. The fronts were from a guy on ebay. They were decent but didn't fit my 6.5 components so I had to use a 1/4 spacer as well. The crossover was a pain. As kenwoods x-overs are huge. But final pic is them installed. I need to get some longer screws for the rear and front.

Didn't get the sub installed today. Ran out of time. Ran all speaker wire with a connector at each door harness if the need ever arises. I set the amp gain to 14.85v (what the speakers rms dictates). That is all I have done, no fine tuning. I will set the tweeters to a -3db as they are a bit to high (titanium domed). But damn, it is clear and bassy exactly what I was wanting. The sub should blend it perfectly.

To add salt to the wound, my new alternator came in, beat up box, and you guessed it, broken B+ post, fudge.

 

[toverturf]

Did a big tuneup today. Replaced both O2 sensors, fuel filter, fuel injectors, spark plugs, and the throttle position sensor. I have a new throttle cable on the way also. I found the air hose that went into the bottom of the throttle body wasn't connected so that probably wasn't helping either but wow what a difference all that made. Before when i'd get to about 2500rpm and higher the engine felt like it didn't have the power it should and started to vibrate more. Now it has a noticeable amount more power in that range and is smoother. Feels like a new car.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Which reminds me, after I took all the e-fan stuff off and put the clutch stuff back on, for some reason my trans runs 30 degrees cooler now?! I mean I'll take it, I didn't touch one thing on the trans cooler. Only radiator. But the csf radiator is thicker where the mounts are compared to the koyo and oem. So it pushed the shroud 3/8 - 1/2"" further out, or the fan is now 3/8 - 1/2" further in the shroud. Or the fin design on the csf is very efficient and allows more air to pass. It's wild. And I have no idea why other then these 2 things.

That's wild!

 

[phattyduck]

Which reminds me, after I took all the e-fan stuff off and put the clutch stuff back on, for some reason my trans runs 30 degrees cooler now?! I mean I'll take it, I didn't touch one thing on the trans cooler. Only radiator. But the csf radiator is thicker where the mounts are compared to the koyo and oem. So it pushed the shroud 3/8 - 1/2"" further out, or the fan is now 3/8 - 1/2" further in the shroud. Or the fin design on the csf is very efficient and allows more air to pass. It's wild. And I have no idea why other then these 2 things.

The mechanical fan is always 'working' - so the radiator (and rest of the cooling stack) will stay much cooler in general. This is also I was talking about using radiator outlet temp as a much better gauge of cooling fan demand rather than engine temp (keeping the cooling stack 'cooler' than is otherwise needed to control the engine temp, in general).

-Charlie

 

[Surf96]

Put my new to me f30 passenger seat in my truck

 

[3bears]

The mechanical fan is always 'working' - so the radiator (and rest of the cooling stack) will stay much cooler in general. This is also I was talking about using radiator outlet temp as a much better gauge of cooling fan demand rather than engine temp (keeping the cooling stack 'cooler' than is otherwise needed to control the engine temp, in general).

-Charlie

didnt timmy just do a video on a modified fan clutch that can keep things even coooler ?

 

[96RedRunner]

Respooling winch on slight incline 240k mi OE alternator started whining about
having to work for a change needed couple of breaks to finish job.
Good time as any to see what 20-25 amps and 4 ga wire will do, got here yesterday.
1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator. | Tacoma World

 

[GhostRing]

Might be time for some better bumpstops...

 

[phattyduck]

Might be time for some better bumpstops...

Or more clearance with a hammer... What do you have for front bump stops right now? As long as you have some compression travel left in your front shocks, why limit up travel?

-Charlie

 

[RMGulchin01]

Suspension shot

Replaced my rear UCA and LCA as a precursor to full suspension overhaul. Moog UCA and SPC LCA. Also lots of wire brushing and rust converter while in there.

 

[Zhehan]

Replaced my rear UCA and LCA as a precursor to full suspension overhaul. Moog UCA and SPC LCA. Also lots of wire brushing and rust converter while in there.

I bought the SPC lower links in 2022. They didn't last a full 3 years and were toast in about 8K miles. The rubber bushings tore and the xAxis joints were floppy. Hopefully you have better luck with yours. I bought mine at O'Reilly's and they came with a lifetime warranty from them, so I got my money back and went with a different brand. SPC warranties them for 3yr/36k miles I believe.

I did not do any hardcore wheeling with them. I'm going to chalk it up to the Pandemic ruining the supply chain and I just got a sh*t set.

 

[GhostRing]

Or more clearance with a hammer... What do you have for front bump stops right now? As long as you have some compression travel left in your front shocks, why limit up travel?

-Charlie

Perhaps, but the accompanying BANG suggested it needs to be slowed
down a bit compared to the 275K factory bumps. The SPC arms and their
relocated UBJ aren't doing me any clearance favors either.

Oh - and yes the x-Axis joints SUCK. All 4 of mine clunk and I'm trying to
formulate a way out of them. Buy Nice or Buy Twice...

 

[RMGulchin01]

I bought the SPC lower links in 2022. They didn't last a full 3 years and were toast in about 8K miles. The rubber bushings tore and the xAxis joints were floppy. Hopefully you have better luck with yours. I bought mine at O'Reilly's and they came with a lifetime warranty from them, so I got my money back and went with a different brand. SPC warranties them for 3yr/36k miles I believe.

I did not do any hardcore wheeling with them. I'm going to chalk it up to the Pandemic ruining the supply chain and I just got a sh*t set.

That's good to know. I've already had bad luck with SPC's old model tubular-stlye front UCA's. I really didn't want to replace the bushings in my rear stock arms so went with this alternative. Hopefully I can get several good years, but won't be surprised if not.

 

[toverturf]

Installed the CSF radiator today. Pretty easy job. Just a simple pull out the old one and put this one in.

 

[dkerr]

Door Lock Actuators, Key Fob, and Skid Plate

This past weekend I addressed my long standing door lock woes. About a year and a half ago both my key fobs went out. Tried replacing batteries, nope. About that same time, my door lock actuators started to die.

First, I went down to Pull-A-Part, fully expecting the 3rd gens they had to be completely destroyed. Surprisingly they had a 1999 with a largely in tact interior. So I tore it apart and got all four door lock actuators. I knew they might not be in much better shape than mine but I thought it was worth a try.

I swapped them all out on my car and tested them out. Success! They all worked much better than mine. Slight exception for the driver side door which will probably need replacing again soon. It gets bogged down pretty quickly but usually works the first time.

Next, I went about pairing my new key fobs I bought on eBay for a whopping 16 dollars. I didn't have much hope, but I didn't really wanna spend 100 dollars on an OEM Toyota fob that doesn't have a window button.

I used the protocol in this video to no avail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=xvryBPgBkWhD5xua&v=zBgn6zSJkQs&feature=youtu.be

After reading through the comments I found that others had success with a slightly different protocol. I tried this a few times and was about to give up when finally it worked!

Finally, I addressed my skid plate that has sat off the truck for far too long. I bought some cheap m8x1.25 bolts from AutoZone, slapped some antiseize on them, and persuaded them with the impact. I think I only messed up the threads of one which I consider a win.

 

[3bears]

This past weekend I addressed my long standing door lock woes. About a year and a half ago both my key fobs went out. Tried replacing batteries, nope. About that same time, my door lock actuators started to die.

First, I went down to Pull-A-Part, fully expecting the 3rd gens they had to be completely destroyed. Surprisingly they had a 1999 with a largely in tact interior. So I tore it apart and got all four door lock actuators. I knew they might not be in much better shape than mine but I thought it was worth a try.

I swapped them all out on my car and tested them out. Success! They all worked much better than mine. Slight exception for the driver side door which will probably need replacing again soon. It gets bogged down pretty quickly but usually works the first time.

Next, I went about pairing my new key fobs I bought on eBay for a whopping 16 dollars. I didn't have much hope, but I didn't really wanna spend 100 dollars on an OEM Toyota fob that doesn't have a window button.

I used the protocol in this video to no avail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=xvryBPgBkWhD5xua&v=zBgn6zSJkQs&feature=youtu.be

After reading through the comments I found that others had success with a slightly different protocol. I tried this a few times and was about to give up when finally it worked!

Finally, I addressed my skid plate that has sat off the truck for far too long. I bought some cheap m8x1.25 bolts from AutoZone, slapped some antiseize on them, and persuaded them with the impact. I think I only messed up the threads of one which I consider a win.

glad it all worked out for you, esp the cheap key fobs.

 

[2TH4IST]

Haven't been on here in a while, but I have done a few things. Firstly, I replaces my cs144 alt it was dying or had died with a mechman ad244 250a alternator, hairpin stator dual fans, more efficiency. I talked with them and they said 250a is max you can go with a 4 rib serpentine belt. It was tested to put out 150a at idle and 275a at max output. The last week the voltage has been rock solid. Cold charge is 14.8v and hot is 14.6v. It is a bit smaller then the cs144 too. With some maths I selected a 44mm pulley, putting the alternators shaft speed at ~2040 rpms at idle and redline (5500) ~18700 rpms. Perfect.

Also got a hold of red line land cruiser and got their 5vz modded fan clutch. Even though Tim did a vid on them, their website was broken and couldnt buy anything. So had to do a odd POS check out. But regardless it did arive. It looks exactly like a stock aisin unit, down to casting #'s, but has clearly had the fluid changed. The spring looks exactly the same. But it does come on much earlier and works great.

So, a theory I also have is, with the hood closed, and the arc fender liners and skid plates, there isn't much area for the air to go to or exit the engine compartment. So I'm going to give hood louvers a shot. 4 of them total, 2 4" wide by 15.5" long on each side of the hood scoop, then 2 more on the sides of the hood lines 6.75" by 16" long. Hood louvers work amazing on my miata, like crazy good. So I'm going to give it a shot on the 4runner.

Then last night I found out I have a left rear axle seal leak. Sigh.... but I didn't use oem seals. Didn't have the $ at the time, so now I have to do the job a second time. Parts ordered.

Then came the great stereo install or diagnostic craps. So the jensen hu took a massive crap, zero sub out put, and massively distorted signal. Had to test with osiliscope. So sent it back for a refund. Ordered a Sony hu and it's amazing. Well my dumb a$$ when I was tuning the amp w/the jensen hu I didn't turn up the phones volume to max. So I had to crank the hu to max volume. That is bad, very bad. And roasted the front speakers. Fudge. So expecting to buy a new component set, crutchfield came in and warranted the speakers at no cost to me, even though I told them it was 100% my fault. Then the RCA splitter for the sub kicked the bucket, again crutchfield came to the rescue, a replacement at no cost! Anyways got it all fixed (still need to remake the rear adapters). Sound it amazing and just gets better the more the system breaks in.

Lastly, my winch master switch broke. It was a blue sea mini switch, the plastic broke holding the battery terminal. Sigh, so got a better and a higher rated switch.

Still have to repaint hood too.