What did you do with your 4runner today?

Yeah, I remember that I wanna install those every time I'm in the middle of a brake job lol. I will one of these days.

What procedure did you use to bleed? I had the key on for the rears and let it pump till no more bubbles, then key on for the fronts, with the typical pump and hold procedure. Then did the 40 pedal pumps while off, key to on, 20 pumps, key off. Which helped a lot last time I did it, but didn't this time.

Might go over to a friend's shop and have him bleed the brake booster with his fancy scan tool to get rid of any air that may be in it. Cuz there certainly isn't any in the lines that I could find.

I didn't do it per the manual as I did each brake line one at a time starting with the front 2 lines. Again starting with the fronts I bled them out with the key off. Because I had speed bleeders I cracked one side at a time and just pushed the pedal to the floor several times until a few ounces of fluid came out. tighten the bleeder and the fronts were done. (I then took the truck to lunch) no issues.


For the rears I did one side at a time as well. With the key on and bleeder cracked i pushed the pedal to the floor and held it there until I saw enough fluid come out (while looking in the side view mirror). I got out of the truck and closed the bleeder and did the same for the other side.

The pedal feels perfect. If you go back in this thread a few pages you will see my write up on this procedure. I include a couple tips which don't really help you now unfortunately.
 
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I didn't do it per the manual as I did each brake line one at a time starting with the front 2 lines. Again starting with the fronts I bled them out with the key off. Because I had speed bleeders I cracked one side at a time and just pushed the pedal to the floor several times until a few ounces of fluid came out. tighten the bleeder and the fronts were done. (I then tuck the truck to lunch) no issues.


For the rears I did one side at a time as well. With the key on and bleeder cracked i pushed the pedal to the floor and held it there until I saw enough fluid come out (while looking in the side view mirror). I got out of the truck and closed the bleeder and did the same for the other side.

The pedal feels perfect. If you go back in this thread a few pages you will see my write up on this procedure. I include a couple tips which don't really help you now unfortunately.

While this may have worked for you, you should always start with the rear, furthest from the master cylinder. So rear passenger first and work your way closer, finishing with the front driver.
 
While this may have worked for you, you should always start with the rear, furthest from the master cylinder. So rear passenger first and work your way closer, finishing with the front driver.

I get that. Which is why I stated I didn't do it by the manual so as not to confuse anyone else. Had I cut all the brake lines at once and/or not taken a great deal of caution not to introduce air into the ABS solonoids or master cylinder (shown in my write up) I would have started with the rears.

I had limited time and wanted to make sure I got the fronts done that day. Knowing the rears would be a pain I wanted to make sure I had time before getting started.

If for example I replaced front calipers I wouldn't bother bleeding the rears unless somehow I got air into a shared component somehow. Same idea here.

After completing the rear lines I bled them out. Had there been a need to rebleed the entire system I would have done R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F. But there was not.
 
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I followed the bleeding instructions I found on this site but it took a couple times going around to each. I also made the ABS kick in on gravel which seemed to tighten them up. Lastly I bedded them, they are really good now.
 
Replaced a frozen caliper and swapped to SS brake lines. Not sure if I just suck at bleeding (I followed the manual) but the brakes still don't feel incredible :/ Got all the air out of the lines as best as I can tell.
care to share the link for the SS brake lines, im planning on changing mine, an 06 SE V6. thank you.
 
Replaced a frozen caliper and swapped to SS brake lines. Not sure if I just suck at bleeding (I followed the manual) but the brakes still don't feel incredible :/ Got all the air out of the lines as best as I can tell.

Same here. I've bled all four corners on my old brakes before and it was fine. Installed new components this time around and the brakes don't feel that good. I think I let the line disconnect for too long and air got deep into the system. Will be doing a longer flush multiple times around all corners and see what happens.
 
TLDR: Added aux fuse panel, added wiring to turn on auxiliary lights automatically with stock headlights brights switch!

Finished stage one of a lighting project - something I've wanted to do for a while.

I found some awesome double push buttons on eBay from China that have the same profile as a ch4x4 but two buttons per unit. They don't have custom ones but I bought one of each of what they offer and eventually plan on using each option.

With these, I designed (attempted to) a circuit that would allow me to either:

A. Select manual mode, turn on auxiliary lights individually with pushbuttons

B. Select auto mode, turn auxiliary lights selected by pushbuttons with vehicle's bright switch. I've wanted this for a while as my lights can be lacking for back country roads and I get tired of keeping my finger on the auxiliary switch should an oncoming car pop over the hill. I'm also able to disable brights in automode if I don't want to use them (fog and snow at night)

C. Master disable all auxiliary lights, should I need to for some reason...

I currently only have some Auxbeam 6" LEDs on the bull bar, but I plan to add the Off-road Town J583 lights and probably an overhead led bar once I buy a roof basket. I'm considering ditch lights but I haven't decided yet.

I took advantage of the project to add a 12-slot auxiliary fuse panel in the front; hoping to complete a dual battery set up later. It's an aging T4R but most of the components can be reused on my next vehicle when the time comes. Currently supplied with a 30A fuse until I get my battery cable lugs in the mail, then I'll be using a Bussman 100A circuit breaker.

Ran into a few circuit problems after installing, but I was able to resolve those and everything appears to work well now. If anyone is interested I'm willing to share the diagram once I get it up to date.

If you value your time there are some pre-fab auxiliary circuit systems out there on the market in the $300-$600 range. This stage of the project took me 30+ hours, so the prefab stuff could be worth it if you don't want to spend the time!
e4a32b1963f582fdff40e9d491897f6b.jpg
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Same here. I've bled all four corners on my old brakes before and it was fine. Installed new components this time around and the brakes don't feel that good. I think I let the line disconnect for too long and air got deep into the system. Will be doing a longer flush multiple times around all corners and see what happens.
Curious to see how that goes. I did my front calipers last November and they have never been worse. Had the dealer flush twice (including abs the second time), and didn't see much result, but I'm not sure they actually did a complete job. Had another independent mechanic flush (no abs) and I got an improvement, but it's still not what it used to be, which is a little disappointing. $130/flush doesn't help me save money on the brake job...

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Curious to see how that goes. I did my front calipers last November and they have never been worse. Had the dealer flush twice (including abs the second time), and didn't see much result, but I'm not sure they actually did a complete job. Had another independent mechanic flush (no abs) and I got an improvement, but it's still not what it used to be, which is a little disappointing. $130/flush doesn't help me save money on the brake job...

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Sounds like I got lucky with the bleeding. Swapped all 6 lines to extended SS and had zero trouble bleeding using the old method of having someone turn key on, pump pedal five times and hold and cracking the bleeders till no more bubbles.

I did rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger and finally front driver. Made sure to keep plenty of fluid in the reservoir and pedal feel was significantly improved.

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Lift done on Sunday, tires yesterday, and alignment today! It was a busy weekend but completely worth it.
 

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New Fuel Injector (with problem)

So, like many projects on these trucks, we have to do it multiple times to get it right. This is one example. I had a sticky fuel injector. It improved about 50% of the way with some really strong fuel injector cleaner, but did not resolve the entire problem. (BG 44k) Took the intake off and replaced the injector and it made a terrible noise, obviously did not like the old gasket on there, and also threw the old misfire code again. Took it down again, and noticed that the fuel injector was not seated correctly (see photo). Fixed that, put in a new gasket for the intake and VIOALA, thing runs like new. Smooth and happy.
437K and ready for another 400+.
 

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Curious to see how that goes. I did my front calipers last November and they have never been worse. Had the dealer flush twice (including abs the second time), and didn't see much result, but I'm not sure they actually did a complete job. Had another independent mechanic flush (no abs) and I got an improvement, but it's still not what it used to be, which is a little disappointing. $130/flush doesn't help me save money on the brake job...

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That sux. I replaced the lines from under the foot well all the way back to the rear brakes so the system was pretty empty. The final thing to get the brakes great were new front calipers, disks and pads. All of it is new now (year ago) except for one rear caliper. Makes you wonder if you still have a stuck caliper piston.
 
That sux. I replaced the lines from under the foot well all the way back to the rear brakes so the system was pretty empty. The final thing to get the brakes great were new front calipers, disks and pads. All of it is new now (year ago) except for one rear caliper. Makes you wonder if you still have a stuck caliper piston.
Both front calipers were brand new, so I hope not...

I did have to clean up one of the rear caliper pins and regrease as it was pretty seized but after doing that they seemed pretty functional.

I'm starting to get used to it, still very functional but less responsive in the first 1/4 of the pedal.

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
 
Hit some trails

Finally got out to hit some trails and do some truck camping to test the new rig. This was the first time I've been offroading since I installed the lifts and tires. She handles herself great out there! It was also great to spend some time with my brother!

Check out this video edit I made too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqgwOCsZ290&feature=youtu.be

*If you're interested, that's my brother's trailblazer (@trail.blazer05 on IG)*
LNdRdGV.jpg

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9hQIhjM.jpg
 
TLDR: Added aux fuse panel, added wiring to turn on auxiliary lights automatically with stock headlights brights switch!

Finished stage one of a lighting project - something I've wanted to do for a while.

I found some awesome double push buttons on eBay from China that have the same profile as a ch4x4 but two buttons per unit. They don't have custom ones but I bought one of each of what they offer and eventually plan on using each option.

With these, I designed (attempted to) a circuit that would allow me to either:

A. Select manual mode, turn on auxiliary lights individually with pushbuttons

B. Select auto mode, turn auxiliary lights selected by pushbuttons with vehicle's bright switch. I've wanted this for a while as my lights can be lacking for back country roads and I get tired of keeping my finger on the auxiliary switch should an oncoming car pop over the hill. I'm also able to disable brights in automode if I don't want to use them (fog and snow at night)

C. Master disable all auxiliary lights, should I need to for some reason...

I currently only have some Auxbeam 6" LEDs on the bull bar, but I plan to add the Off-road Town J583 lights and probably an overhead led bar once I buy a roof basket. I'm considering ditch lights but I haven't decided yet.

I took advantage of the project to add a 12-slot auxiliary fuse panel in the front; hoping to complete a dual battery set up later. It's an aging T4R but most of the components can be reused on my next vehicle when the time comes. Currently supplied with a 30A fuse until I get my battery cable lugs in the mail, then I'll be using a Bussman 100A circuit breaker.

Ran into a few circuit problems after installing, but I was able to resolve those and everything appears to work well now. If anyone is interested I'm willing to share the diagram once I get it up to date.

If you value your time there are some pre-fab auxiliary circuit systems out there on the market in the $300-$600 range. This stage of the project took me 30+ hours, so the prefab stuff could be worth it if you don't want to spend the time!
e4a32b1963f582fdff40e9d491897f6b.jpg
c524c6e5e7bf1ee6a66c1ce6ccc5d8f3.jpg
b6e2298eb2aa8943cbe9b9d29fedf81c.jpg


Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
Nice job! Do you have a link to those double switches? Have never soon those.

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09 4runner Liftgate motor

Anyone know how to put the window regulator cables back on the spool that goes in the motor??
 

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