What did you do with your 4runner today?

Finally got around to wrestling with the Daystar pucks in the front. I kept the 1.5" lift in the rear to have a little rake, and to be able to load the back.

DO NOT use the 2.5/1.5 Daystar kit WITH KYB complete struts..

The KYB complete struts lifts the front enough to look good and have different spring rates to adjust for the lean, which I installed incorrectly 3 years ago.

I wanted to switch them out, but the lower strut bushing was so frozen, I just cut a slice off the daystar spacer to put back in on the driver side and they are within 1/2" now. Was more than 3/4" off and the front was just too high with any load in the rear.

Rear right sits almost 1" higher, so I'm not sure if I overloaded my moog springs when I hauled a shit ton of tile years ago. Maybe I'll move my misc. box of shit to the right side of the back, I suppose that'll help a little.
 
Of course after I finish the suspension and do a quick test drive to see if it is straight enough to get to the alignment shop, I'm checking underneath for loose bolts and the radiator is leaking between the plastic and metal along the sides.

205k miles and original I am guessing.

Denso ordered from Napa and should arrive in 2 days.
 
Got a few more things coming for some freshening up
 

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Added this little badge to the front grill to give my all black truck a bit of color, and I've got an Ironman Procell Foam suspension kit with UCA's on the way!
 

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Installed the accessorides remote start kit..super easy install..Not sure why I waited so long to do this..excellent upgrade..

img_20210816_152235.jpg


Also installed some frontrunner eyehook on my LFD cross bars..will make it easier to strap down my kayak..

img_20210817_095528.jpg


This on a 4th or 5th Gen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Installed the accessorides remote start kit..super easy install..Not sure why I waited so long to do this..excellent upgrade..

img_20210816_152235.jpg


Also installed some frontrunner eyehook on my LFD cross bars..will make it easier to strap down my kayak..

img_20210817_095528.jpg


how does that get installed? any quick write-up?
 
Finally got around to replacing my valve cover gaskets. Because the upper intake plenum had to come off I went ahead and replaced that gasket as well.

Parts I used were
Valve cover gasket Fel-Pro VS50634R &
Intake plenum Fel-Pro MS96641. Toyota sealant for the spots that needed it.

The Valve cover gasket comes with an abundance of the rubber washers that go under the three center bolts and 8 O-rings that I had no idea where they went so I didn’t not use any of them.
The intake plenum gasket comes as three separate pieces unlike the OEM that is one single piece.

Only surprise I found was A LOT of sludge in the driver side head (Photo #3). Clearly it has missed a few oil changes in its life span. So now I’m looking at ways to deal with that. I have been running Mobil1 Truck & SUV 5W-30 (apparently it has extra detergents) since I got the vehicle in February of 2020. I have constantly been chasing all the neglect of the previous owner/owners.
Lastly, I broke the TPS connector so I had to run to the dealer and get a new one. Luckily the connector would press on and stay till I could go get it replaced. For reference, Toyota not only has a part number for the connector which is, part # 9098011858 but you can search just the connector number which is printed on each connector. For instance the TPS connector has 11858 printed on it.

Does anyone have any recommendations on cleaning out that engine sludge? Brands I have considered are AMSOil engine flush, LiquiMoly engine flush and Marvel Mystery Oil.
 

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Finally got around to replacing my valve cover gaskets. Because the upper intake plenum had to come off I went ahead and replaced that gasket as well.

Parts I used were
Valve cover gasket Fel-Pro VS50634R &
Intake plenum Fel-Pro MS96641. Toyota sealant for the spots that needed it.

The Valve cover gasket comes with an abundance of the rubber washers that go under the three center bolts and 8 O-rings that I had no idea where they went so I didn’t not use any of them.
The intake plenum gasket comes as three separate pieces unlike the OEM that is one single piece.

Only surprise I found was A LOT of sludge in the driver side head (Photo #3). Clearly it has missed a few oil changes in its life span. So now I’m looking at ways to deal with that. I have been running Mobil1 Truck & SUV 5W-30 (apparently it has extra detergents) since I got the vehicle in February of 2020. I have constantly been chasing all the neglect of the previous owner/owners.
Lastly, I broke the TPS connector so I had to run to the dealer and get a new one. Luckily the connector would press on and stay till I could go get it replaced. For reference, Toyota not only has a part number for the connector which is, part # 9098011858 but you can search just the connector number which is printed on each connector. For instance the TPS connector has 11858 printed on it.

Does anyone have any recommendations on cleaning out that engine sludge? Brands I have considered are AMSOil engine flush, LiquiMoly engine flush and Marvel Mystery Oil.


Opportunity missed to install 3 degree retard cam gears!


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I've seeing worse, I used an engine flush from Protec on my old 1gr-fe and had good results a few years back Motorinnenreinigung, hard to find tho.

As for Liquid moly only used Molygen 10w30, Ceratec and their fuel line cleaner, got rid of a small shatter I had on cold starts on a 2tr-fe and not sure if its the ceratec or the liquid moly oil, but that engine is cleaaaaan inside nice golden coat after I changed the valve cover gasket.

Not my experience but a friend had a 4.6 Explorer Sport trac with a stuck lifter so he added Marvel Mystery Oil did a few drain and fills, long story short he hydro locked so after pulling the engine apart it was fairly clean.

My only concern is you do have some crud buildup and you run the risk of that crap getting stuck somewhere along the engine, you should check the vvti valves, vvti filters to get the idea of what you are going up against, there is a chance the vvti sprockets are gunked also.

good luck:tea:
 
I picked up my 4th Gen last year with a broken cam chain and full of sludge. Poor thing had little to no maintenance. I mechanically pulled out the sludge I could and cleaned the oil pickup strainer. Mine was much worse than yours.

Since then I have increased the oil change intervals and I run Rotella diesel oil in it, it is getting cleaner each time. After many oil changes over the past year the oil is still dirty after 2500 miles but it is not nearly as bad as it was. I did a status check on the pick up and it had not picked up an crap. Thing runs awesome and I am sure it is thrilled to have had all the love.

With mechanical removal and flushing you always run the risk of throwing a clot, so just running a good detergent oil and increasing oil change intervals is likely more than enough.
 
[MENTION=109843]montijo505[/MENTION]
That definitely would have been the opportune time to do that. After reading more into those cam gears it appears they mostly effect the timing in the upper RPM range. That isn’t really something I’m looking for since I don’t spend a lot of time in that RPM range and probably not going to do any major tuning.
[MENTION=106436]miller507[/MENTION]
Checking those VVTI components would definitely be a good idea. Thanks for the idea. After reading m3y3rRunner reply, if I did run some sort of engine cleaner through the system, checking the oil pickup as well as the VVTI components would give me some sort of idea how that sludge is being managed. Also couldn’t hurt to change the oil pan gasket as I’m sure it is no longer rubber and turned to hard brittle plastic like all the valve cover gaskets were. Strange thing is it was just in the front of that driver side cylinder head. None in the cam gears or any other major accumulation in any other areas.
[MENTION=615918]m3y3rRunner[/MENTION]
I have read about others using diesel oil to help. I have also heard using high mileage oil which apparently has a lot of detergents as well. Increasing service intervals is what I’ll try first. Currently I do every 5K, I’ll switch to 3K and see if it helps. Glad to hear yours is running well and I know it feels rewarding to know you have right someone else’s wrongdoing.

Thank you for everyone’s input and advice.
 
The lower oil pan is "glued" on with FIPG so there is nothing to dry out. It can fight you to get off, but it is easy enough to get to. I have a oil pan separating tool that works well, get it in there and give it a smack.
I had so much sludge that at first I was changing oil at 500 miles, I have since increased it to 3000. That level is likely excessive but I got the truck cheap so spending money on oil doesn't bother me. I buy the Rotella T6 oil in the 2.5 gallon jug when it goes on sale so it isn't too bad.

I did try the Kroil Kreen flush in the beginning, to be honest I don't know if it did anything. It is not in there long enough to eat ony of the hard sludge so I just stuck with the diesel oil and increased intervals. Plus you will never harm anything by doing too many oil changes.

Mine was much worse on the driver's side as well. That is the side that can breathe so there is a source for moisture which is needed for sludge.
 
headlebar vibration

trying to find out what vibration my 2007 4Runner has between 25 and 38 mph when exiting a traffic light .... any ideas? .. greetings!
 
I finally got Toyota TIS Techstream running in a virtual machine. I was able to code a key for our new Lexus RX350 that only came with one fob.

I hooked it up to the 4Runner and went through a few screens just for kicks. I'm not sure if I accidentally cleared the Homelink settings, but they did not work this morning. It could have also happened when I was programming the Homelink for the RX350, or maybe the X5M. Regardless, I get to reprogram both doors today and hope that all 4 cars work afterward.

Edit: I think I accidentally deleted the 4Runner homelink with Techstream. The X5M and RX350 both retained their settings. I was able to program both garage door openers on the 4Runner within 2 minutes. So simple.
 
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Not today, but over the past couple weeks I cleaned the MAF, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the original plugs (gap was about 0.060 on all of them), and replaced the PCV. All but the MAF appeared to be untouched at 82k miles, I've had it since 78k.

20210803_171706 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

20210803_190226 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

20210803_191427 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Also put some upgraded bulbs in my headlights, Phillips xtreme vision I think. I'm very happy with their performance, these headlights are awesome, especially compared to my 3rd gen that might as well burn two candles for headlights. New bulb is on the left in the pic.

20210727_205823 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Now I just need to change the oil, rotate tires, inspect the brakes since I've never taken the wheels off this 4Runner myself, put poly sway bar bushings in, change the transmission and power steering fluids, and she should be good to go for awhile, maintenance wise.
 

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