What did you do with your 4runner today?

[thegame7]

Awesome! Bet you're happy to have that one over with haha. Look forward to hearing what you think after you get some time behind the wheel.

Seat of the pants doesn't feel too much different but it does seem to run smoother through the RPM range and have more pull.

Of course now I get to chase down a steering clunk that developed somehow while I was installing the headers. Literally the only thing I touched in the steering system was the steering shaft.

 

[JBR14]

Good job. Seems like a pain. Remind me to not ever do this.

 

[rdruss]

Seat of the pants doesn't feel too much different but it does seem to run smoother through the RPM range and have more pull.

Of course now I get to chase down a steering clunk that developed somehow while I was installing the headers. Literally the only thing I touched in the steering system was the steering shaft.

So, what is your complete exhaust system now?

 

[thegame7]

So, what is your complete exhaust system now?

DT shorties and a resonator delete. Otherwise completely stock. Kind of wanting to get a new muffler now though

 

[vonRunner]

Seat of the pants doesn't feel too much different but it does seem to run smoother through the RPM range and have more pull.

Of course now I get to chase down a steering clunk that developed somehow while I was installing the headers. Literally the only thing I touched in the steering system was the steering shaft.

Any major difference in sound or drone in the cab? I've heard from people with long tubes and y-pipe that it's quite a bit louder inside (which I don't want), but I'd assume short tubes with stock cats/y-pipe wouldn't add a ton of noise?

 

[thegame7]

Any major difference in sound or drone in the cab? I've heard from people with long tubes and y-pipe that it's quite a bit louder inside (which I don't want), but I'd assume short tubes with stock cats/y-pipe wouldn't add a ton of noise?

Same as stock honestly. Noticed no difference in noise in the cabin. Its actually quieter at full throttle because the manifolds don't leak

 

[thegame7]

Decided I was tired of the driveline clunk so I pulled the slip yoke apart, removed as much grease as I could and globbed a BUNCH of Honda M77 assembly lube in there. Supposedly this grease has a high content of molybdenum which is exactly what the slip yoke calls for. 220k mile slip yoke is pretty worn out but driving to work this morning I didn't feel any clunks at all. Fingers crossed it lasts a while. Molybdenum is much better about not breaking down under high pressure like normal grease so finding the highest content possible is best.

 

[Bluesky 07]

Short version: I solved a charging system issue (low alternator voltage) by replacing the Toyota battery I bought in July 2022 (alternator is new). The one that they said "tested fine" when I brought it in even though several auto parts stores' devices came back "bad battery." Arguing the point was futile so I bought an Interstate battery from Costco. Problem solved, voltage is back up where it belongs.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

Short version: I solved a charging system issue (low alternator voltage) by replacing the Toyota battery I bought in July 2022 (alternator is new). The one that they said "tested fine" when I brought it in even though several auto parts stores' devices came back "bad battery." Arguing the point was futile so I bought an Interstate battery from Costco. Problem solved, voltage is back up where it belongs.

Was the low voltage causing issues other than a no-start condition


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bluesky 07]

Was the low voltage causing issues other than a no-start condition


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, it wasn’t causing much at all. My OBD Fusion dashboard is set up for voltage among other things and was reading as low as 12.9. Then I had a hiccup while starting which got my attention since I was out wheeling with no cell service. Had a couple of auto parts stores check the charging system and both said the voltage regulator was testing bad. Weird b/c I just replaced my original alternator with an OEM unit last year. Called Cobb County Toyota and they swapped it out for a new one under warranty. I installed it, no change. That’s when I got the bad battery checks at the parts stores. Replaced the battery and all is well so I think the alternator was fine all along. :doh:

 

[vonRunner]

Finally got around to putting my sliders on the 4Runner. Pretty happy with the way they turned out.

 

[rhoyneriver]

Which sliders are those? Looks great!

 

[AuSeeker]

Which sliders are those? Looks great!

You need to get his attention for him to see your post, unless he just happens upon your post/question, to do that you need to either quote his post or "mention" him, like this [MENTION=262417]rhoyneriver[/MENTION] , either of which will send him a notification.

That being said he just posted yesterday about installing the sliders in his "built/adventure" topic, see the last post.

vonrunner's 2006 V8 Build & Adventure Thread

 

[vonRunner]

Which sliders are those? Looks great!

They're Demello Offroad "Hybrid" sliders that I customized the ends of. If you check out the latest post in my build thread [MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] posted above there's some photos of what I did.

 

[AZ07Runner]

I replaced the "seal" that goes in between the hood and grill. It was really falling apart and vibrating a bit.

Would post a pic, but it's not allowing it! :shrug:

 

[maxdef]

I replaced the "seal" that goes in between the hood and grill. It was really falling apart and vibrating a bit.

Would post a pic, but it's not allowing it! :shrug:

You can try with Imgur: The magic of the Internet, it's a common one.

I'd love to see yours as I ordered the part for my grille project but I'm not quite sure how it's supposed to sit as I never had one.

 

[AZ07Runner]

You can try with Imgur: The magic of the Internet, it's a common one.

I'd love to see yours as I ordered the part for my grille project but I'm not quite sure how it's supposed to sit as I never had one.

The grill has to come off and there are 8 nuts to remove. Remove old seal and clean the area well. The seal itself is well engineered to install easily. There is a groove marking the center of it so no measuring is needed. It has a peel off backing which is cut at the center. You push the seal over the lip of the grill into it's groove about two inches at a time and THEN pull off the backing the same amount. Press that section down for good adherence. DON'T pull off the backing all at once. It is VERY sticky and can't be worked with. Keep doing two inch sections.
**The picture was too big so I had to downsize it. That's why it wouldn't upload.**

 

[maxdef]

I went back to OEM rubber sway bar bushings after running poly for 2 years. Having redone the whole suspension since then, I was chasing a slight clunk that was present when hitting bumps and being on a forward incline for example. It was a pain to get the last of the 4 bolts lined up and threaded, but it was all worth it. Backing out of the driveway, I noticed less rocking in the turn, and a short drive it just felt smoother in the steering wheel. The rears are being ordered now.

Interestingly, I had tried 30mm and 29mm bushings and both just didn't seem to be right. Perhaps my bar has some extra wear that created a wider range of movement, but I think the biggest difference is the OEM bracket is slightly offset on the front bolt holes, whereas the bracket from energy has both holes centered. It'll be nice not greasing them too; I couldn't find a good red grease with lasting power and it seemed to dry after a couple months with very little driving.

 

[Bluesky 07]

Which sliders are those? Looks great!

Be sure to check out 4XInnovations if you're looking for sliders. My experience with the company and product has been terrific and if there's a more solid, cost-effective slider on the market, I haven't found it. Mine were under $400 shipped with the "DOM + kickout" option.

 

[jmaurer]

Hey everyone!
I can't post my own thread yet, but I'm hoping someone can help me out of the hole I dug myself in. I have a 2005 V8 4WD that I got in January, so I'm still getting acquainted with it mechanically. On Sunday I started a timing belt job but hit a snag during disassembly and snapped the lower bolt for the alternator. I sprayed it with a healthy amount of PB blaster and let it sit overnight, then made the situation worse by thinking I'd be able to get it out with an extractor which also broke.

I feel like my options are:

1. Keep trying to remove the broken extractor and if I can then I'll just drill the bolt out completely like I should have
2. Drop the front differential, remove the oil pan, and pull the oil pump to drill from the back
3. Tap out and have a shop finish the work

#2 seems doable but I'm having a hard time finding directions for removing the front differential. I found write-ups for the 3rd gen but I'm not sure how much the 4th differs.